China producer profile: Silver Heights – Helan, Ningxia

Although impressed by the unconventional approach, Gao, who trained in Bordeaux and worked at Château Calon-Ségur (where she met her husband, Thierry Courtade), wasn’t entirely convinced. But, eight years later, that visit was to become an inspiration. In 2017 Emma herniated a lumbar disc and, at one point, feared she might have to spend the rest of her life in a wheelchair.

Eventually, acupuncture rather than surgery relieved her symptoms. The experience inspired her to look at everything from a more holistic perspective and, after more research into biodynamic agriculture and Chinese herbal medicine, she started converting Silver Heights to biodynamics in 2017 – the 10th anniversary of the estate’s founding by her father, viticulturist Gao Lin.

Emma GAO, winemaker and owner of Silver Heights — Emma Gao, winemaker and owner of Silver Heights

The challenging year of 2018 came right after: spring frost and sandstorms were followed by torrential rain, yet Emma insisted on using natural mixtures ‘to restore the balance of yin and yang’ in the vineyard. And her efforts were realised – Emma’s Reserve 2018, her signature Cabernet Sauvignon, still shines with elegant power today.

Now Demeter-certified and exporting 20% of its production, Silver Heights sources grapes from 70 hectares of vineyards, split between two sites in the warm, sandy Helan subregion.

Its flagship red Summit and the Chardonnay Reserve are must-trys, but for a taste of creative flair from Emma and her young team, seek out the Barbera, the sparkling Bloom (with a touch of local rice wine) and the orange wine made in Chinese amphora.

Silver Heights Vineyard, Chardonnay Reserve, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia 2021

2024 DWWA Gold – 95pts

DWWA: Green apple, lime and pineapple melds with flinty minerals. Bright and glossy with a creamy texture and a seamless acid drive. Grape: Chardonnay 100%. Alc: 12.5%

Winery: Silver Heights Yinchuan (Helan), Ningxia

Trade contact: export@silverheights.cn

Stockists: China Knot (UK); Crystal Wine (Singapore); Vino&Design (Italy); Iconic Terroirs SAC (Peru); Ishikawa Roumu Kanri Jimusyo (Japan); Watson’s Wine (Hong Kong); SC Bangkok Marketing (Thailand); Red Warehouse (Vietnam)