Burgundy 2021 red wine score table

After tasting more than 1,300 Burgundy 2021 en primeur samples, Charles Curtis MW has given his full verdict on the new vintage.

Here we present a quick and easy way to see tasting notes and scores for the 163 red wines wines that scored 94 points and above.

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Producer	Appellation	Score	Notes	Header Cell - Column 4
Domaine Georges Roumier	Musigny Grand Cru	2021	99	Row 0 - Cell 4	TOP QUALITY This wine is consistently among the very best in Burgundy. As with nearly every year, it shows a superb depth of red and black fruit, earthy, mineral complexity and secondary character. It has depth allied with incredible silky structure, immense length and lovely concentration but no heaviness or awkwardness. It is a supremely delicious wine right out of the gate and one that will only improve with time. On track to being among the best wines in Burgundy.
Domaine Armand Rousseau	Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru	2021	99	Row 1 - Cell 4	RED WINE OF THE VINTAGE TOP QUALITY Comparing the Chambertin and the Clos de Bèze in Rousseau’s cellar, the Bèze is generally better received in cool years, which is the case in 2021. It is spicier and more open, the aromas more voluptuous, with ripe red and black fruit, plenty of earthy, mineral depth of flavour and complexity, and a texture on the palate that is plumper, riper and more ‘exhibitioniste’, according to Cyrielle Rousseau.
Domaine Armand Rousseau	Chambertin Grand Cru	2021	98	Row 2 - Cell 4	This wine figures prominently on my list for 'best of the vintage', edged out only slightly by its stablemate Clos de Bèze. It is a wine of great intensity, with pronounced, forward, brambly blackberry fruit, notes of lavender, smoke, a hint of wood spice, and compelling savoury complexity. The texture is firmly tannic and dense but not imposing. There is no lack of fresh acidity, yet everything is in balance, and the overall impression is one of seamless beauty.
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti	La Tâche Grand Cru Monopole	2021	98	Row 3 - Cell 4	TOP QUALITY La Tâche is among the vintage’s top wines, with explosive ripe red and black fruit aromas ranging from plum and black cherry to mulberry, all accented with liquorice, clove and peppery spice, earth, leather and Havana cigar. The texture is powerfully structured, with ripe, supple tannins, fresh acidity and abundant extract, yet it’s not astringent or tight. Wait at least a decade before enjoying this, but it also has the substance to age further.
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti	Romanée-Conti Grand Cru Monopole	2021	98	Row 4 - Cell 4	TOP QUALITY ‘In the future, there will still be good wines because there will always be great vineyards,’ said Bertrand de Villaine, nephew of retired Romanée-Conti estate co-director Aubert de Villaine. Romanée-Conti proves his point in a challenging vintage. Although the colour is light and the nose is a bit reticent, the fruit opens up on the palate with ripe mulberry, liquorice, truffle, mineral and floral notes. De Villaine compares the 2021 vintage to 1991, since both have more finesse and elegance than the year that preceded them. Hauntingly beautiful rose petal aromas continue to echo on the impossibly long finish – a triumph.
Domaine Armand Rousseau	Gevrey-Chambertin (1er Cru Clos St-Jacques)	2021	97	Row 5 - Cell 4	This magnificent wine has a dark ruby hue, with effusive ripe plummy fruit, a pronounced earthy edge, and notes of liquorice and pepper. The texture is dense and firm, yet there is an elegance that makes the wine feel approachable. The depth of flavour here suggests ageing for at least five years before enjoying it since there is a lot of tightly wound complexity here. The grapes come from the 2.2-hectare parcel on the edge of the cooling influence of the combe that delivery a silky wine of great finesse and purity.
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti	Richebourg Grand Cru	2021	97	Row 6 - Cell 4	Aromas of ripe blackberry fruit take center stage of this exceptional wine, with notes of lavender, menthol, and smoke and sweet spice notes from the cask ageing that will integrate with time. The texture is lush and supple, yet there is no lack of tannin or freshness – the structure gives the wine a lovely line, but it is very young and still quite exuberant. Bertrand de Villaine explains that the cellars where the Richebourg, La Tâche, and Romanée-Conti are kept are colder than the rest, and thus the wines age more slowly.
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti	Romanée-St-Vivant Grand Cru	2021	97	Row 7 - Cell 4	As is often the case, there is a distinct departure with the DRC Romanée-St-Vivant; ‘another world of perfume’ in my notes, with very forward red and black fruit and a distinctively exotic floral note. The texture is lush and velvety, yet plenty of fresh acidity and grippy tannin support the copious fruit that continues to echo on the palate. As with the Echézeaux, there was a replanting campaign from 2012 - 2015 here (one-third of a hectare), and these young vines are not used in the final wine.
Domaine Bruno Clair	Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru	2021	97	Row 8 - Cell 4	TOP QUALITY Tasting in the cellar, I wrote, ‘Wine from another planet’; this is truly spectacular and worthy of notice – super-ripe plummy fruit with an undercurrent of ground coffee, smoke and spice on the nose. The texture is substantial and dense, with firm tannins and exceptional length. Despite the vintage, this has the proportions to age for decades. It originates from the superb 1.64ha parcel the domaine owns on the Morey-St-Denis side of the appellation. This terroir gives a more substantial, structured version of Bonnes-Mares, while the Chambolle side gives a bit more finesse. Not to be missed.
Domaine des Lambrays	Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru	2021	97	Row 9 - Cell 4	TOP QUALITY It is hard to overstate my enthusiasm for this wine, with its impressive ripeness, plump, plummy fruit with notes of black cherry and liquorice. The texture is densely structured, firm but not hard, and long but not heavy. There is still the freshness and finesse to make this among the best wines of the vintage. This is the reunion of all the old-vine parcels in the Clos and a pretty convincing argument for director Jacques Devauges’ assertion that Lambrays is the pinnacle of Morey-St-Denis.
Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair	Richebourg Grand Cru	2021	97	Row 10 - Cell 4	TOP QUALITY The Richebourg is a bit reserved at present; the fruit only opens up on the palate, showing curranty, plummy fruit, hints of spice, menthol and mineral earth notes give great complexity. The texture is firm, tannic and dense, with impressive length. The wine comes from a half-hectare planted in the 1930s above the DRC holding at the southern end of the appellation. The grapes from these majestic old vines were fermented with 30% whole clusters and a very gentle extraction before ageing in new casks – superb wine at the highest level.
Domaine Georges Roumier	Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru	2021	96	Row 11 - Cell 4	This wine is among the most powerful Bonnes-Mares that I tasted from the 2021 vintage, with dark fruit aromas of plum and blackberry touched with earth, leather, and savoury game notes. The structure was concentrated and dense, with flavours that run deep on the palate and lead to a marvelously long finish. Two-thirds of his holdings are on the white marl ‘terres blanches’ at the top of the slope and were late to bud and thus less affected by the frost. This powerful wine should be among the most long-lived from the 2021 vintage.
Domaine Georges Roumier	Chambolle-Musigny (1er Cru Les Amoureuses)	2021	96	Row 12 - Cell 4	I noted the 2021 Amoureuses from Roumier as ‘A bit more elegant and finesse than usual - not as voluptuous but every bit as good’. The aromas were more red fruit than black, and there was a lovely floral note; on the palate, the texture was fresh and lively, a bit lighter in body but not lacking substance. It is a wine of charm and depth that should open at a young age and drink well for twenty years. The grapes come from a parcel of 0.40 hectares on the steep slopes at the southern end of the appellation.
Domaine d'Eugenie	Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru	2021	96	Row 13 - Cell 4	Abundant ripe plum aromas with a distinctive violet and mineral edge are immediately appealing and amply backed up by fresh acid, grippy tannins, and an impressive amount of extract. The grapes come from the domaine’s 1.4 hectares of well-positioned old vines in the Clos. The youngest are declassified, and three-quarters of the rest were gently fermented on native yeasts as whole clusters to produce this wine that is undoubtedly among the best of the appellation in 2021.
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti	Grands-Échézeaux Grand Cru	2021	96	Row 14 - Cell 4	In 2021 this superb wine displays a forward, lush plummy fruit that matches the exuberance of the Echézeaux, although there is more tannin and substance on the palate and a distinct increase in structure and length. The grapes come from the Domaine’s 3.5-hectare holding just up the slope from the Clos de Vougeot. Using primarily whole clusters in the ferment (85%) ensures vibrancy to spare and a wonderfully complex finish. Yields here were better because the vineyard was protected with candles.
Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier	Musigny Grand Cru	2021	96	Row 15 - Cell 4	The Musigny from Frédéric Mugnier is consistently among the very finest wines in Burgundy, exemplifying the sublime combination of power and elegance that is possible from this site. His 1.14 hectares is on the northern edge of the appellation, and most of the vines were planted from the 40s – 60s. The 2021 has a lovely plummy fruit with an intense mineral edge. The texture is structured and firm with a vibrant freshness, but the generous, supple potential is abundantly evident and the wine should age for decades.
Domaine Méo-Camuzet	Richebourg Grand Cru	2021	96	Row 16 - Cell 4	The Méo-Camuzet Richebourg showed abundant, silky sweet fruit in the 2021 vintage, with notes of pomegranate and raspberry, a hint of mineral and some smoke. It is a very pretty wine on the initial attack, and the wine is balanced and elegant. Méo has switched his oak program up: he dries the staves for three years and uses light toast almost everywhere. The effect is very elegant, even if here I can’t help feeling that it lacks a bit of substance in comparison to previous vintages, and that it will be ready to drink sooner than some.
Domaine Armand Rousseau	Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru	2021	96	Row 17 - Cell 4	Lovely, expressive, and ethereal, the Ruchottes has less heft than the Mazy, yet somehow more intensity. Despite its reasonably light colour and slightly reserved character initially, it opens charmingly on the palate, with expressive red and black fruit aromas, perfumed floral notes, and almost saline mineral quality. There is a lovely tannic line, yet the impression is lightness and elegance. The grapes come from the domaine’s monopole clos at the top of the Ruchottes slope. The wine is still ageing in cask (20% new) but shows excellent potential for cellaring.
Anne Gros	Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru	2021	96	Row 18 - Cell 4	Among the best wines made in the Clos this year, this wine shows pronounced aromas of ripe mulberry and plum with accents of earth and mineral. The substance and volume on the palate are astonishing for the vintage and complement the firm tannins and depth of fruit. Gros had us taste it after the Richebourg, and she was right. It is produced from her 80-year-old vines in Le Grand Maupertui, which yielded a gratifying 35hl/ha this year, more than most other sites.
Domaine Bruno Clair	Marsannay Longeroies La Murée	2021	96	Row 19 - Cell 4	A spectacularly delicious wine that you may never get to taste, but it is worth searching out. The surprisingly dark garnet hue and ripe mulberry fruit scented with spice, cedar, smoke and flint all seem out of place in 2021, yet this wine carries through to the end, with plenty of density and grip and remarkable length for the vintage. Three barrels are made using only the century-old vines from Clair's 1.6ha holding in Longeroies; the fruit is fermented entirely as whole clusters. New to me with this tasting.
Domaine Georges Roumier	Grands-Échézeaux Grand Cru	2021	96	Row 20 - Cell 4	Roumier’s Echezeaux is delicious, but seems the odd man out in his cellar. He ferments the wine from this tiny holding as 100% whole clusters with just a bit of destemmed fruit to get the ferment going. The wine is more massive and tannic than anything else in his cellar, full of super-dense cassis and blackberry fruit with a slight menthol character. On the palate, it is dense (particularly given the vintage) but lingers subtly on the palate to live up to the lineage of the producer.
Clos de Tart	Clos de Tart Grand Cru Monopole	2021	96	Row 21 - Cell 4	‘Classic Pinot Noir’ according to winemaker Alessandro Noli. He has spared no expense to produce a superb wine, declassifying to premier cru swaths of the Clos that didn't meet his expectations. The result has a lovely ripe, expressive mulberry and pomegranate fruit with accents of earth and sweet oak spice and a silky precision to the texture that is firm if less powerful than in recent years. The overall result is a beautiful expression of the Morey terroir.
Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair	La Romanée Grand Cru	2021	96	Row 22 - Cell 4	TOP QUALITY La Romanée is (as always) at another level of quality in 2021, with impressive depth of flavour and complexity. The aromas display super-ripe blackberry and mulberry fruit with notes of pepper, liquorice and a bit of menthol. The texture is dense and firm but not astringent, and the compellingly ripe black fruit explodes on the palate. Produced with meticulously sorted fruit (two tables, 10 people in total), Liger-Belair has included about 10%-15% whole cluster and delivered impressive depth and complexity.
Domaine d'Eugenie	Grands-Échézeaux Grand Cru	2021	96	Row 23 - Cell 4	Superb wine, on a par with the best in the appellation. There are perfumed fruit aromas of plum and black cherry with a bit of spice and some pleasant mineral notes – the initial impression is one of great elegance, and with time in the glass the wine reveals a depth of flavour and length that are truly rewarding. The half-hectare site between Echézeaux and the Clos de Vougeot is pretty protected, and frost damage was limited – they produced more wine in 2021 than in 2020. This wine should drink well young but will only improve with time.
Domaine Dugat-Py	Chambertin Grand Cru	2021	96	Row 24 - Cell 4	TOP QUALITY This stunning wine has immense depth of flavour with superbly ripe aromas of plum, black cherry and blackberry fruit with accents of menthol, earth, smoke and gunflint. The texture is substantial and fleshy, with superb density, supple and velvety tannins, and immense length. This wine will be the last bottled as it needs cask ageing to smooth its edges. Chambertin was among the vineyards least affected by the frost, and Dugat-Py lost only about 10% – 185 litres of this precious nectar was made instead of 205 litres.
Domaine Dujac	Clos de la Roche Grand Cru	2021	96	Row 25 - Cell 4	This wine is a contender for best in class and one of the very best of the vintage across all appellations. The colour is a fairly deep ruby hue, and the wine displays a lovely ripe plummy fruit with accents of mineral, cigar wrapper and earth on the nose. The texture is initially silky and approachable, but with time one sees that this is a powerful wine with lots of tannin behind that; it is a wine built for ageing. This wine has it all.
Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg	Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru	2021	96	Row 26 - Cell 4	TOP QUALITY This graceful, elegant wine begins quietly. It is slightly closed on the initial attack, and there is a bit of reduction that wasn't present in the other wines, but the palate opens with super-ripe cassis fruit, notes of violets and earth, leading to a supple and fairly dense structure with firm tannins and a persistent finish. The wine comes from a small parcel of 0.3ha around the château, bought by Dr Georges Mugneret in 1953. Completely destemmed and gently fermented on native yeasts before ageing in cask (70% new).
Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair	Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru	2021	96	Row 27 - Cell 4	Liger-Belair produced more wine in '21 than he did in 2020 from this site. The wine is utterly charming, with a lovely ripe cherry, rose petal nose, and savoury, mineral notes. The supple, balanced texture on the palate shows great elegance. The bunches were loose and the skins fairly thick and thus rot and mildew were avoided. The wine was gently fermented after removing the central stem, and the result is aging in untoasted casks bent with hot water, not steam to give the wine great elegance.
Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair	Nuits-St-Georges (1er Cru Les St-Georges)	2021	96	Row 28 - Cell 4	This is an epic wine in the cellar of Thibault Liger-Belair, tannic, powerful and deep. The fruit character is dark plum and blackberry with hints of smoke, leather, and cigar leaf. The texture is dense and tannic; the finish is long. Every aspect of this is substantial, yet it retains the elegance to appear perhaps even more sophisticated than the Clos Vougeot. In my opinion, it is certainly on the level of the grand cru wines.
Domaine Parigot	Beaune (1er Cru Grèves)	2021	95	Row 29 - Cell 4	Parigot farms a half-hectare of seventy-year-old vines on the steep slopes of the upper portion of Beaune Grèves between Bouchard and the Hospices. The well-drained soils have delivered a medium-deep colour and explosively aromatic aromas of cassis and blueberry with notes of liquorice and mineral. The texture is silky, with finely-grained tannins and balanced acidity that lead to a lingering finish. This wine will drink well young, yet will improve over the next five to ten years.
Domaine Rossignol-Trapet	Chambertin Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 30 - Cell 4	The ’21 Chambertin from Rossignol-Trapet is monumental wine. Medium-deep ruby in colour, it is a bit less open on the nose but explodes with red and blackberry fruit on the palate with hints of earth, mineral, smoke, and spice. The texture is silky and supple but not lacking grip or structure. This wine is a top-level Chambertin, produced from the domaine parcels totaling 1.60 hectares. The grapes were fermented with a large percentage of whole clusters and (contrary to custom) punched down to ensure adequate extraction.
Domaine Trapet Père & Fils	Chambertin Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 31 - Cell 4	As always, the Trapet Chambertin is among the reference standards for the appellation. The wine has a surprisingly deep ruby hue and abundant aromas of ripe blackberry and pomegranate with notes of earth, wild herbs, and flowers. Oak spice still marks the nose but should integrate with time. Both new wood and whole cluster inclusion was reduced this year, and the restraint suits the wine well, and the purity of the fruit shines like a beacon. Marvelous.
Maison Millemann	Chambertin Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 32 - Cell 4	This wine is complete, round, and very lovely. While it inevitably has less power than the 2020 vintage, it is a wine of impressive balance and elegance. There is an impressively ripe cherry fruit aroma with suggestions of lavender, earth, and smoke. On the palate, there is still plenty of power (particularly for the vintage), grip, and length. It is an impressive wine by any measure. While Millemann professes the gospel of drinkability, this wine shows he crafts wines for the long haul as well.
Domaine Bruno Clair	Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 33 - Cell 4	This wine shows intense concentration and depth, with superbly ripe currant and black cherry fruit with great complexity, showing notes of violets and game, mineral and menthol, baking spice, and truffle. The texture is firm but not unyielding, although there is a formidable amount of tannic grip here and bright, fresh acidity that drive the wine to a lingeringly elegant finish. Two-thirds of the grapes are from vines first planted in 1912; the balance was planted in 1972. 30% whole clusters, ageing now in 40% new casks. Incredible wine in a tough year.
Domaine Lamy-Pillot	Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru Clos St-Jean)	2021	95	Row 34 - Cell 4	The Clos St-Jean had a medium deep ruby colour, a ripe mulberry fruit aroma with pronounced floral aromas, and a slightly rustic, brambly edge. The structure is firm and tannic, with plenty of fresh acidity that draws this wine to a lingering finish. The grapes come from a 0.30-hectare parcel planted with a lovely massale selection by Florence Lamy-Pillot’s grandfather. The grapes were completely destemmed in 2021 before a gentle fermentation and ageing in cask (25% new).
Domaine Armand Rousseau	Clos de la Roche Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 35 - Cell 4	This wine is sometimes overlooked because it is the only wine from outside Gevrey in the Rousseau cellar. The Clos de la Roche, however, is among the best values from Rousseau. In the 2021 vintage, the wine shows sweet cherry fruit with floral and mineral notes. The texture is supple and fleshy, and there is enough structure to carry this to a lovely finish. It is produced from one and a half hectares split between the lieux dits of the original Clos de la Roche and Les Fremières. The absence of new oak here assures an admirable purity of fruit.
Hubert Lignier	Clos de la Roche Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 36 - Cell 4	This delicious wine is consistently among the best wines produced from the Clos de la Roche. There is an attractively ripe blackberry and plum fruit with plenty of complexity from eucalyptus, liquorice, star anise, and lavender notes. There is appreciably more density than in the ‘classic’ Clos de la Roche that comes from the tiny grapes affected by millerandage. Laurent Lignier’s grandparents planted the vines in 1955 in Les Monts Luisants; this bottling is his homage to their memory.
Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair	Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 37 - Cell 4	There are marvelous ripe mulberry and plum fruit aromas here with earth, mineral, and saddle leather notes. The tannins are firm but finely grained and silky; there is a supple, plump texture on the palate with no tart or astringent qualities. The grapes come from three-quarters of a hectare of old vines on the border with Echézeaux in Baudes Hautes. Liger-Belair relates that the wine is by nature very tannic, and by punching down fairly firmly, he can soften (‘enrobe’) the texture. His strategy has undoubtedly succeeded in judging from this lovely wine.
Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet	Échezéaux Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 38 - Cell 4	The texture is perfectly silky yet impressively dense at the same time, with nothing tart or acerbic to this wine. There is a delightful purity of fruit to the aroma of ripe mulberry and an edge of peppery spice and floral notes. The grapes come from three small parcels in the lieux-dits Les Treux, Quartier de Nuits, and Champs Traversins that total 0.21 hectares. The oldest vines are in Champs Traversins. Berthaut protected the vines with candles and thus did not lose an inordinate amount – she produced 2.5 barrels from her 0.21 hectares.
Domaine Cécile Tremblay	Échezéaux Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 39 - Cell 4	Cecile Tremblay produces a sublime Echézeaux from her two plots of Echézeaux du Dessus. These 0.18 hectares are located at the heart of the vineyard in what is arguably its greatest terroir. In 2021, the vines delivered a deeply-coloured displaying an intensely ripe aroma of blackberry and currant, with notes of earth and spice. The texture on the palate is dense and concentrated, with balanced acidity, medium-firm tannins, and great purity of fruit. The grapes were partially destemmed and fermented without punching down before ageing in cask (one-third new).
Domaine d'Eugenie	Échezéaux Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 40 - Cell 4	This supremely impressive Echézeaux is almost overwhelming with its sweet fruit on the initial attack with plenty of mineral, earthy depth, and a hint of fresh mint. On the palate, the wine is concentrated with grippy, fine-textured tannins balanced by the fresh acidity to deliver an overall impression of complete seamlessness. This wine one of the top Echézeaux produced in 2021. Because the vineyard was protected with candles, there were two more barrels than in 2020 – seven instead of five (of which five were new).
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti	Échezéaux Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 41 - Cell 4	The 2021 Echézeaux is an extraordinary wine, with forward, bright raspberry fruit aromas and floral notes, marked at this stage with spice from the cask ageing; Bertrand de Villaine notes that most of the barrels are from François Frères, with contributions from La Grange and Berthomieu. The texture has great, silky finesse, although some slightly drying tannins still need to be integrated. Although the immense holding centered in the lieu-dit Poulaillères is 4.67 hectares, not all finds its way into the blend since the young vines are blended into the Vosne-Romanée premier cru Duvault-Blochet.
Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair	Échezéaux Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 42 - Cell 4	On the initial attack, the Echézeaux from Liger-Belair has a super-ripe blackberry and cassis fruit with a startling complexity that combines elements of earth and mineral with a smoky, savoury side that continues to the palate with an almost salty tang. The density is palpable, and the firm tannins and lively acidity carry this to a lovely, lingering finish. 2021 is the first year that Liger-Belair has expanded his holdings to include a bit of Echézeaux du Dessus along with the Champs Traversins, Vignes Blanches, and Clos-St-Denis that he has been farming for some time, and the results are promising indeed.
Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg	Échezéaux Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 43 - Cell 4	The domaine lost 90% of their production in the lieu-dit Rouges du Bas, but 'only' 55% in Quartier de Nuits. The remaining wine is spectacularly delicious, with ripe, concentrated blackberry fruit, with flashes of fresh flowers and earth. The flavours are enlivened by crisp acidity and firm tannins that carry the wine to a lingering finish. One quarter of the grapes are fermented as whole clusters (the only wine in the cellar so treated), and the wine is ageing in cask (60% new, from four different coopers) to deliver this wine of dizzying telluric force.
Domaine Sylvain Pataille	Marsannay	2021	95	Row 44 - Cell 4	Lovely, expressive blackberry fruit is the first thing you smell, but not the last, with nuances of spice, earth, menthol, and smoke on the nose. The flavours continue to deepen on the palate, and there is a subtle, silky texture that is not jarring but impresses gradually with its near-perfect balance and length. The wine is blended from vines nearly a century old in the Clos du Roy blended with other venerable vines from the lieux-dits of Clémengeot and Les Ouzeloy, all fermented as whole clusters and aged in cask (50% new).
Domaine Armand Rousseau	Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 45 - Cell 4	The ripe blackberry fruit, hints of spice, and firm mineral depth of this wine all clearly announce its grand cru status. Balanced acidity, firm tannins, and abundant extract support the aromas, leading to an impressive finish. This wine is built for ageing, although it should drink well at an early age. The wine comes from a half-hectare of old vines in Mazis-Bas whose grapes are destemmed and carefully fermented using judicious punching down and pumping over before ageing in cask.
Domaine Dugat-Py	Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 46 - Cell 4	This wine is epic, with super-ripe red and black berry fruit aromas, and copious notes of fresh flowers, liquorice, and anise spice. There are both abundant depth and great finesse at the same time. It is a wine of extraordinary length and structure, produced from ninety-year-old vines planted at 14,000 vines per hectare. The 0.21-hectare plot is located in Mazis-Bas, and the grapes are fermented primarily as whole clusters. The extraction in 2021 was very delicate but firm, and the wine is now ageing in cask (mostly new). This wine will be truly exceptional.
Domaine Amiot-Servelle	Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 47 - Cell 4	Surprisingly dark in colour for the vintage, with a pronounced ripe plummy fruit and notes of earth, menthol, and wood smoke. The texture is tannic and fresh, but everything is in balance. This is a muscular wine (more than most in this vintage) and should age very well. The grapes come from a 0.19 ha parcel of 60 – 70-year-old vines in Mazoyères; this is the first vintage that has been labeled as Charmes but with the designation ‘En Mazoyères’.
Domaine Dugat-Py	Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 48 - Cell 4	At Dugat-Py, the Mazoyères comes after the Charmes; often, it seems slightly more imposing. In the 2021 vintage, however, I found it more open and supple, with a rich plummy fruit trimmed with aromas of mineral, menthol, and earth and an underpinning of ground coffee or dark chocolate. The texture is supple and softer, balanced acidity and ripe tannins, yet enough substance to draw it to a superbly long finish. Mazoyères was fermented with 80% whole clusters compared to 70% for the Charmes.
Domaine Georges Roumier	Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 49 - Cell 4	The aromas of ripe mulberry and blackberry here are seductive and provide an alluring foil for the dense, supple texture on the palate and the softly lingering finish. This parcel of just over a quarter-hectare is in Mazoyères. Roumier was renting until 2017 and has now purchased the vines. Beginning last year, the wine is labeled Charmes-Chambertin 'Aux Mazoyères'. The grapes are fermented with a relatively high proportion of whole clusters and are now ageing in cask (25% new). The cooling influence of the Combe Grisard delivers a fresh and elegant result.
Domaine Ponsot	Morey-St-Denis (1er Cru)	2021	95	Row 50 - Cell 4	This wine of impressive concentration is one to buy in the 2021 vintage. A superb density of red and black fruit explodes on the palate. The power is evident from the dark colour to the dense, tannic texture. Yields in 2021 were meager in this part of the vineyard (8 hl/ha), and Alexandre Abel completed the blend with a half-barrel of Clos de la Roche, with the balance of the grapes coming, as always, from the 1.29 hectares in the Clos de Monts Luisants above the portion that goes in the grand vin.
Domaine de la Vougeraie	Musigny Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 51 - Cell 4	This delicious Musigny from Domaine de la Vougeraie opens with a lovely, bright mulberry fruit aromas with dark notes of earth, mineral, smoke, and menthol. The texture is lively and fresh, yet there is substance, depth and grip on the palate. The grapes come from two parcels totaling 0.21 hectares that are farmed biodynamically using a horse for vineyard work. The grapes are fermented entirely as whole clusters and will age two winters in cask (25% new).
Domaine Faiveley	Musigny Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 52 - Cell 4	This wine features an amazingly silky texture yet impressive density. There is abundant ripe pomegranate, currant fruit, and notes of rose petals and spice. The complexity and length on the palate ensure that this is among the vintage's top wines. It is produced from two small plots that total 0.13 hectares. The grapes are partly destemmed and fermented directly in the same cask in which the wine will age. Faiveley Musigny is a reference for the appellation and among their greatest reds.
Domaine de Courcel	Pommard (1er Cru Rugiens)	2021	95	Row 53 - Cell 4	This classic Pommard has deep plum and cassis fruit aromas scented with tobacco, cedar, and spice. The texture is massive, with abundant extract, firm tannins, and fresh acidity. The grapes come from just over a hectare at mid-slope, where the soil transitions from white marl to deeper clay soils. They are fermented as whole clusters with vigorous punching down and will age eventually for nearly two years in cask. This will take several years to open fully, but it will be magnificent in time, and should live for decades, even in the 2021 vintage.
Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat	Richebourg Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 54 - Cell 4	This brilliant wine is immediately impressive with a lustrous, forward, ripe cherry fruit with gorgeous notes of rose petal and spice and a mysterious earthy underpinning that starts on the initial attack and continues through the immense, lingering finish. The texture is firm, tannic, and rich, yet it is approachable while holding some of its potential in reserve. The grapes come from 0.30 hectares of seventy-year-old vines in Les Richebourgs, between Grivot and DRC. One of the great wines of the vintage.
Domaine Jean-Marc Vincent	Santenay (1er Cru Les Gravières)	2021	95	Row 55 - Cell 4	The Gravières from Jean-Marc Vincent is a tremendous achievement in a challenging year. There is a ripe mulberry fruit that is a bit restrained initially but opens well on the palate, with a nuance of earth, menthol, mineral, leather, and wood smoke. The texture is tannic and substantial, yet there is finesse and elegance here. The grapes come from 0.90 hectares planted to old vine Pinot here in limestone and clay soils; they are fermented with 60% of the grapes as whole clusters, and the wine is ageing now and will see perhaps 24 months before bottling.
Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair	Vosne-Romanée (1er Cru Reignots)	2021	95	Row 56 - Cell 4	The yield was reduced in premier cru Aux Reignots by nearly 75% in 2021, but the remaining wine is sublime. It is surprisingly dark-hued for the vintage, and the aromas are redolent of ripe blackberry with a pronounced savoury, salty complexity that has an almost animal note. There is a touch of reduction, but this will disappear when racked. The texture is robust, with firm tannins, plenty of focus, and enough extract to carry the wine to a lingering finish. It is a superb wine.
Domaine Philippe Naddef	Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 57 - Cell 4	UNDER THE RADAR Serious wine, with opulent red- and blackberry fruit aromas edged with floral notes, oak spice and earth. The wine is fully ripe on the palate, with pure plummy fruit, plenty of depth, great density, silky tannins and impressive length. The domaine has two parcels totaling 0.4ha, one in Les Mazis-Hauts and one in Les Mazis-Bas. The grapes are gently fermented with a modest percentage of whole clusters and aged in new casks.
Domaine Cécile Tremblay	Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 58 - Cell 4	This wine is a hedonistic delight, like many of the wines from Cécile Tremblay. The wine has pronounced, ripe blackberry fruit aromas edged with spice and smoke. The texture is rich and dense, but the tannins are supple and fine-grained, lingering sensuously on the palate. The fruit shows striking purity on the finish – absolutely delicious. It is produced from a 0.36ha parcel in Les Gémeaux, downslope from Chambertin-Clos de Bèze.
Domaine Michel Mallard	Corton Le Rognet Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 59 - Cell 4	This wine is among the great surprises in Corton for this vintage. The nose displays a distinct mix of plum and mulberry fruit with a suggestion of fig and coffee that is very robust. There is also a bit of oak spice on the nose, since five of the seven barrels were new. The texture is complete, round and supple, accessible, but also very tannic and long. Mallard farms two parcels here totalling just over 1.2ha. The Rognet seems particularly successful in 2021.
Domaine Ponsot	Clos de la Roche Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 60 - Cell 4	A masterful rendition of the Clos de la Roche, made at the expense of tiny yields (9hl/ha). The dark plummy fruit is a bit closed and tightly wound up with hints of mineral and earth, but it will doubtless unspool in the bottle with time. The feel on the palate is similarly a bit hard, but there is dense extract here along with firm tannic structure and impressive length. With a bit of coaxing in the glass one sees the great potential of this vintage.
Domaine Rossignol-Trapet	Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 61 - Cell 4	This delicious wine represents a distinct step-up in aromatic complexity in the portfolio, with aromas of pomegranate and ripe cherry, hints of violet and lavender, which continue to echo on the palate with an undercurrent of dark chocolate. The texture is approachable and supple, but the substance and structure are sufficient to ensure a long life. This is produced from a parcel of 0.7ha in the heart of Latricières. The grapes are given a cold soak and fermented without punching down before ageing in cask (about half new).
Domaine Sylvain Pataille	Marsannay	2021	95	Row 62 - Cell 4	Le Chapitre in Chenôve is among the finest in the northern Côte de Nuits, yet this is among the first vintages elevated to village status. Pataille farms just over a hectare at mid-slope with orange-brown rocky limestone soils (grèzes litées) which give the wine a pronounced mineral concentration. The fruit expression is pomegranate/ raspberry; there is a hint of reduction, which will pass, and a spicy depth to the nose. The texture is tannic and fresh, with plenty of substance and a lingering finish.
Domaine Alexandre Parigot	Nuits-St-Georges (1er Cru Damodes)	2021	95	Row 63 - Cell 4	The colour of the wine is deeper, and the ripe plum and blackberry fruit aromas in this wine are richer than one would expect in 2021. The texture has a lovely density and a good weight of ripe fruit with supple tannins and rewarding length. The 0.25-hectare parcel with vines trained quite high was purchased from a vigneron in Concoeur who rented the vines just below the parcel belong to Leroy. The first vintage from Parigot was 2019.
Anne Gros	Richebourg Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 64 - Cell 4	This wine should persuasively convince anyone with lingering doubts about the 2021 harvest. There are pronounced black cherry and lush violet aromas and an elegantly fresh texture that introduces a surprisingly deep, sweet fruit on the palate—lovely finesse and length. The wine is produced from the 0.60 hectares of old vines from the Gros parcel in Les Verroilles. Gentle extraction and a savvy picking date delivered a charming, seamless wine, although it will not be as long-lived as last year's blockbuster.
Benjamin Leroux	Clos St-Denis Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 65 - Cell 4	Leroux's Clos St-Denis is tremendous wine. Although there is a bit of reduction on the initial attack, it opens on the palate with savoury, salty notes that almost recall roast meat and a deep plummy fruit character with an earthy edge. It is surprisingly structured for the vintage, with firm tannins, fresh acidity, and admirable density of fruit that all lead to an impressive finish. It is produced from a 0.15-hectare parcel in the heart of the walls of the lieu-dit Clos St-Denis.
Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet	Gevrey-Chambertin Le Combe de Dessous	2021	95	Row 66 - Cell 4	The emphasis here is on perfume and elegance, with a bright, forward cherry fruit aromas and hints of lavender and ginger, light body, and fresh acidity. Nonetheless, there is enough substance here to carry the wine to a lingering finish and suggest at least mid-term aging. The half-hectare parcel is located just below the Route des Grands Crus, down the slope from Cazetiers. The grapes are mostly destemmed and gently fermented and the wine is now aging in cask (25% new).
Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet	Vosne-Romanée (1er Cru Les Petits Monts)	2021	95	Row 67 - Cell 4	This is superb wine, with an impressive precision and depth of red and black berry fruit character, spice and mineral nuance on the nose. The texture is silky and very fine, yet the tannic structure is solid and will support aging. It comes from a remarkable collection of parcels totaling a half hectare planted with very old vines (some more than a century old) and worked by horse. Twenty percent of the grapes are fermented as whole clusters, and the wine is aging now in cask (30% new).
Domaine Bruno Clair	Savigny-lès-Beaune (1er Cru Les Peuillets)	2021	95	Row 68 - Cell 4	According to Arthur Clair (Bruno's youngest son), this is his favorite wine in the cellar, and it's easy to see why. The aromas lead with ripe plum and blackberry to hints of earth, mineral, and liquorice spice. The texture is impressively dense and concentrated for the vintage, and the wine is remarkably persistent on the palate. It is produced from the 1.1-hectare holding in the central portion of the premier cru Les Hauts Jarrons, initially planted in 1902. Bruno commented that the old vines didn't freeze, but any replacement vines scattered throughout froze in April.
Domaine Chandon de Briailles	Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 69 - Cell 4	This lovely wine was one of the surprises of the vintage, with its richly aromatic nose of ripe cherry, liquorice, and rose petals. The wine is slightly reserved, tannic, and dense on the palate, although there is no heaviness here. With just a bit of patience, this should be among the best red Cortons from the vintage. It is produced from 0.28 hectares of biodynamically-farmed old vines at 310 metres planted on a steep slope in sandy marl soils. A name to remember.
Domaine de Courcel	Beaune (1er Cru Les Epenottes)	2021	95	Row 70 - Cell 4	Impressive, richly constituted, and substantial wine. The aromas are complex, with plum and mulberry fruit accented with earthy, meaty, savoury notes and hints of saline/mineral on the finish. The texture is dense, tannic, and firm, with lots of extract and a finish that lingers interminably on the palate. Although this is a classic Pommard in style, everything is in balance here and there is superb potential for cellaring - this will be better opened in a few years, and should age well over the medium- to long-term.
Domaine Dujac	Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 71 - Cell 4	Intensely good wine. The colour is a fairly deep ruby, and the nose displays a lush, plummy fruit. There are no heavy, smoky aromas, just clean, pure fruit and floral notes. The texture is supple and dense with a lively acidity that carries this to a superbly ripe, long finish. Dujac has 0.59 hectares in total in two sections. They picked everything here on 25 September, in advance of their other grand crus, to spectacular result.
Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg	Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 72 - Cell 4	This is a charming wine of substance and depth. It is all that remained after 80% losses in Ruchottes due to frost—there were only two barrels, not the ten that they usually have. 'It's difficult to make beef Bourguignon with only two pieces of beef' is how Marie-Christine Mugneret referred to the situation. They have nonetheless done marvellous work, producing this delicious wine with aromas of ripe black cherry, rose petals, and a suggestion of earthy minerality. The texture is firm and elegant, with tannin and freshness to spare.
Domaine Georges Roumier	Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 73 - Cell 4	Substantial and tannic, this wine still has the elegance to deliver a wine of brilliance and depth. It showcases red and black berry fruit aromas with hints of spice, smoke, and earth and a firm yet fresh and ethereal texture. Roumier managed a paltry 16 hl/ha from the half-hectare of vines he rents from Michel Bonnefond in Ruchottes du Dessus that trace their lineage to the purchase from the Thomas Bassot holdings in 1976, using a cold soak and a moderate percentage of whole clusters with a gentle fermentation to achieve his silky results.
Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair	Corton Les Renardes Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 74 - Cell 4	This engaging, lovely wine has lovely ripe cherry fruit expression and hints of rose petals and mineral. The texture is silky and supple, yet there is tannic power to spare. This 0.30-hectare parcel of old vines planted is now seventy years of age. The grapes ripen precociously, and he began to pick here on 21 September before the rains on the Corton Hill. This concentrated, deep wine should age well in your cellar.
Domaine Violot Guillemard	Pommard (1er Cru Grand Clos des Épenots)	2021	95	Row 75 - Cell 4	This classic Pommard has dark, briary fruit with hints of smoke, leather, and cigar leaf. The texture is firm but not hard or astringent, and the finish is long. As with the Clos des Mouches, this is fermented completely as whole clusters. The extraction is careful but active, and the aging is done in 30% new casks. The grapes come from a quarter-hectare of seventy-year-old vines in the brown, iron-rich soils of Petits Epenots. One of the top wines in this cellar.
Domaine Yvon Clerget	Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru	2021	95	Row 76 - Cell 4	A wonderful Clos Vougeot. This deeply-coloured wine has a lovely ripe plummy blackberry fruit and notes of spice, rose petals, and slightly herbal, earthy edge notes. The abundant complexity is complemented by a silky texture, balanced acidity, and impressive length on the palate. Produced from vines in the Grand Maupertuis section of the clos that were pruned very late and thus avoided frost damage. The wine was fermented as 50% whole clusters, and aged in 50% new casks. Marvellous.
Bouchard Père & Fils	Beaune (1er Cru Grèves)	2021	94	Row 77 - Cell 4	This wine is among the most successful Beaune premier crus in 2021. The aromas begin with mulberry and cassis fruit with notes of earth, menthol, and smoke. Rich and substantial on the palate, it features surprisingly full body, firm tannins and rewarding length. The grapes are from the Bouchard monopole of nearly four hectares within Beaune Grèves. In 2021, 30% were fermented as whole clusters to ensure complexity and freshness. This should open well with a few years in bottle and age over the next two decades.
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé	Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru	2021	94	Row 78 - Cell 4	This wine features spicy, intense blackberry and earth aromas, with an undercurrent of savoury notes and a smoky hint of ground coffee. This is more massive than the rest of the cellar. It remains a compellingly attractive wine, but seems more ‘Morey’ than ‘Chambolle’ in character, despite the fact that the domaine’s 2.7 hectares are clustered at the base of the slope at the southern tip of the appellation. After a careful sorting, the grapes were fermented with 50% whole clusters and the wine is currently ageing in cask.
Louis Jadot	Bourgogne	2021	94	Row 79 - Cell 4	The ripe plum and black cherry fruit aromas are surprisingly forward for Bonnes-Mares, although it does not have the depth of some wines from this vintage. Instead, it is warm and supple, with firm but finely-grained tannins. The grapes come from a 0.27-hectare parcel that runs the entire length of the vineyard from top to bottom. The fruit is mostly destemmed and fermented slowly on native yeasts before ageing in cask (half new) to produce an elegant, balanced wine.
Domaine Drouhin-Laroze	Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru	2021	94	Row 80 - Cell 4	This wine shows restraint and elegance, and yet everything is in the right place. The impression begins with ripe mulberry fruit aromas accented with notes of smoke, leather, and earth, yet there is no rustic edge. It is a robust wine, surprisingly deeply coloured for the vintage, boasting full body, plenty of tannic grip, and impressive density and length. It is produced from the domaine's outstanding 1.5-hectare parcel in the centre of the vineyard, running from top to bottom. 20% of the grapes are fermented as whole clusters, and the wine is currently ageing in cask (mostly new).
Domaine Joseph Drouhin	Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru	2021	94	Row 81 - Cell 4	This is a wine of elegance and power; there is plenty of tannin and structure, but it is not lacking fruit, with forward aromas of black cherry and plum coloured with exotic spices, a hint of smoke, and persistent earthy, savoury aromas from the terroir. The aromas are lovely and expressive. Along with the Amoureuses and the Griottes, this is consistently among the most successful of the reds. The structure is firm and fresh and leads to an impressively persistent finish, but there is nothing harsh or astringent here. Produced from a combination of estate-owned parcels and purchased fruit.
Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair	Chambolle-Musigny	2021	94	Row 82 - Cell 4	This elegant wine sports a relatively light colour, but the aromas are fully ripe, with abundant floral shading to the ripe pomegranate and currant fruit. The texture is ethereal, yet the finish is persistent. Liger-Belair feels the 2021 vintage resembles the landmark 2010. As with that earlier vintage, this is produced from purchased fruit from old vines scattered across five village-level terroirs covering 0.70 hectares in Les Mal Carrées, Les Maladières, Derrière le Four, Les Fremières, and Les Gamaires. The grapes are partially destemmed and fermented on native yeasts before ageing in cask.
Domaine Georges Roumier	Chambolle-Musigny (1er Cru Combottes)	2021	94	Row 83 - Cell 4	Ethereal finesse and lovely freshness were the hallmarks of this wine in 2021, with notes of bright red fruits and no sign of the slightly rustic side of the Clos de la Bussière. The grapes come from 0.27 hectares in Les Combottes (not Aux Combottes, further down the slope). In some years, it gives a wine of more substance and weight; this year, it is exquisitely delicate. It is fermented with 60% whole clusters and aged in one-third new casks to give a wine of purity and complexity.
Domaine Amiot-Servelle	Chambolle-Musigny (1er Cru Derrière la Grange)	2021	94	Row 84 - Cell 4	The structure, tannin, and density on offer mark this as a serious wine. The fruit is a bit reticent on the initial attack, but one sees plenty of extract on the palate, and the wine should open admirably with time. The vines are located across the road from Les Fuées and just south of Bonnes Mares, and the grapes are fermented on native yeasts, with about one-third of whole clusters to bring complexity. The wine is ageing in cask (40% new) to another layer of spice and sophistication.
Domaine Amiot-Servelle	Chambolle-Musigny (1er Cru Les Amoureuses)	2021	94	Row 85 - Cell 4	There is a lovely fresh quality to this concentrated wine's red and black fruit character that seems to offer both a lush, seductive fruit and substantial structure and length. The grapes come from a 0.45-hectare parcel of mature vines on the northern side of Amoureuses just below the Route des Grandes Crus and are fermented on native yeasts as 30% whole clusters before ageing in cask over two winters. Despite its obvious charms, collectors are advised to wait at least five years before opening.
Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier	Chambolle-Musigny (1er Cru Les Amoureuses)	2021	94	Row 86 - Cell 4	A marvel of intensity without weight, this lovely charming wine has bright black cherry fruit, fresh floral aromas, and a texture that is pleasantly rich but not at all heavy. The wine is made from just over a half-hectare of old vines planted in the ‘60s in the thin red clay Amoureuses soil. The grapes were destemmed and given a cold soak before fermentation and the wine is now ageing in cask. This marvelously balanced wine should age effortlessly for decades.
Louis Jadot	Chambolle-Musigny (1er Cru Les Amoureuses)	2021	94	Row 87 - Cell 4	This ripe, classic Amoureuses features lush blackberry fruit aromas and hints of exotic spices and smoke. There is plenty of nuance and length on the palate, with a velvety structure but no lack of grip. The grapes come from the domaine-owned parcel of 0.12 hectares that produced a single 350-litre barrel in 2021. The fruit is mostly destemmed, and fermented with classic punching down to extract tannin and colour before ageing in cask (half new).
Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg	Chambolle-Musigny (1er Cru Les Feusselottes)	2021	94	Row 88 - Cell 4	This beautiful wine is consistently among my favourites from this vineyard. Its deep ruby colour and reticent aromas on the initial attack make it seem un-Chambolle-like. The wine is firm and substantial on the palate, but a lovely plummy fruit with plenty of depth opens up here. In this vintage, I like the balance between the acidity of the tannin and the maturity. The wine is made from nearly a half-hectare of old vines, whose grapes are destemmed and gently fermented on ambient yeasts before ageing in cask.
Domaine Armand Rousseau	Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru	2021	94	Row 89 - Cell 4	Rousseau's Charmes is the first grand cru tasted in the cellar. The emphasis here is on the purity of fruit and silky expression rather than the lush density of some growers. There is a hint of spice to the ripe, ethereal cherry aromas, but there is no new wood in the maturation here – 'you have to avoid crushing it with new wood', according to Cyrielle. It is produced from a combination of relatively young vines in Charmes proper with old vines from Mazoyères, which give a very elegant result.
Domaine Dugat-Py	Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru	2021	94	Row 90 - Cell 4	The '21 Charmes from Dugat-Py is a massive wine. There is a bit of reduction on the initial attack, but behind that is bright raspberry and pomegranate fruit with floral notes, and hints of menthol and earth. The texture is lively and fresh, with plenty of acidity, but all the structural elements balance with firm tannins and plenty of extract. This is a blend of the quarter-hectare the domaine owns in Charmes proper with some of their Mazoyères as well. Luckily for everyone, production was 'only' off by 25% this year so some wine will be available.
Domaine Lamy-Pillot	Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru Boudriotte)	2021	94	Row 91 - Cell 4	This wine has a ripe plummy fruit aroma with notes of earth and spice; the flavours gain complexity and depth on the palate. The texture is supple and rich, with fresh acidity and enough tannin to sustain it through a pleasant finish without a hint of astringency. For Sébastien Caillat, the solution was to avoid over-ripening the fruit, select only healthy bunches, and avoid extracting astringent tannins. The grapes come from a plot of 0.61 in Boudriottes; they were wholly destemmed in 2021 and fermented with very few punch-downs before ageing in cask (25% new).
Domaine Paul Pillot	Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru Clos St-Jean)	2021	94	Row 92 - Cell 4	The red from Pillot’s Clos St-Jean is a real treat, with concentrated plummy fruit scented with wilted rose petals, earth, and bramble. There is vibrant acidity, firm tannin, and no lack of intensity, yet there is elegance also. The combination of power and finesse made me write ‘almost bonnes-mares-ish’ in my musings. The family owns one hectare planted to Pinot; the grapes were entirely fermented as whole clusters in 2021 to deliver this impressive result.
Hubert Lignier	Clos de la Roche Grand Cru	2021	94	Row 93 - Cell 4	Although the vines of Clos de la Roche suffered from the frost, the results were particularly delicious, with bright red and black fruit and notes of lavender and spice. The wine shows admirable energy and an almost saline minerality on the palate. There is tension and freshness, pleasantly ripe fruit, and rewarding density. The complex interplay of flavours on the palate is superb. Wait five years before opening this; it should last another twenty beyond that.
Maison Millemann	Clos de la Roche Grand Cru	2021	94	Row 94 - Cell 4	Millemann’s Clos de la Roche displays a lovely concentration of powerful cassis and plum fruit with smoke, mineral, and eucalyptus notes. The aromas from the oak ageing are noticeable without being dominant. Millemann ages the wine in 100% new casks but uses Tronçais wood with a neutral toast to avoid overwhelming the wine. In the 2021 vintage, the texture of the wine is firm, almost slightly rustic, but there is more than enough ripe fruit and nuance to ensure that this ages gracefully for years.
Benjamin Leroux	Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru	2021	94	Row 95 - Cell 4	There is a lovely sweetness to the cherry and plum fruit here, with cedar, earth, and clove accents. The texture is tannic and structured, but there is enough substance to ensure a slightly fleshy, approachable suppleness on the palate. Good length. This wine is produced from a 0.15-hectare plot at the southern extremity of the Clos; Leroux produced two barrels in ’21. This Clos de Vougeot should age well indeed.
Domaine JJ Confuron	Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru	2021	94	Row 96 - Cell 4	This Clos de Vougeot is slow to open, but it is powerful and well-balanced on the palate, where a seductive blackberry fruit with earth and smoke notes begins to emerge. The wine is tannic and firm but not astringent and lingers pleasantly on the palate. It is produced from several well-placed parcels, notably in La Garenne and Quartier de Marei Haut next to Leroy, who purchased the Charles Noëllat estate, which was also the source of their land. The grapes are organically farmed and gently fermented before ageing in cask (one-third new each year).
Maison Edouard Delaunay	Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru	2021	94	Row 97 - Cell 4	Although this wine is a bit restrained initially, the deep colour and the firmly tannic and structured texture hint at the longevity of this wine. It is thoroughly ripe, balanced and powerful, and should age well. There were six barrels produced in 2021; grapes came from two parcels: one-third from Petit Maupertuis at the top of the hill behind the chateau, and the balance from a plot between the Château and the Château de la Tour. The grapes from Petit Maupertuis were destemmed; the balance not.
Domaine Amiot-Servelle	Clos St-Denis Grand Cru	2021	94	Row 98 - Cell 4	The 2021 vintage Clos St-Denis is delicious although I find in this year that it is eclipsed by the Charmes-Chambertin 'En Mazoyères'. The former wine seems slightly more angular and does not have as much finesse as the latter. The aromas show cranberry and pomegranate notes, and the fruit has a slightly herbal edge on the initial attack. The texture is less ripe and perhaps slightly astringent. The differences are relatively small, however, and both wines are worthy.
Domaine Dujac	Clos St-Denis Grand Cru	2021	94	Row 99 - Cell 4	This beautiful, racy wine is a superb expression of Morey terroir, with plenty of high-toned red fruit character and notes of menthol, earth, and smoke. The texture is fresh and crisp, with firm tannins that drive the wine to an impressively lingering finish. It lacks just a bit of the density and ripeness of the Clos de la Roche, but the ethereal perfume stands it in good stead. The grapes come from parcels that total 1.47 hectares in the lieux-dits of Les Chaffots, Calouière, and the traditional core of the Clos St-Denis itself, all picked on 28 September.
Louis Jadot	Clos St-Denis Grand Cru	2021	94	Row 100 - Cell 4	Lovely ripe cherry fruit with floral and spice notes and a bit of smoke and toast introduce this marvelous wine, one of the signal successes among the Jadot reds in the 2021 vintage. The wine is one of finesse and elegance; on the palate there is vivacious fresh acidity, but enough density to be substantial and long without being imposing. The wine is produced from the 0.17-hectare parcel in the original Clos St-Denis lieu-dit owned by Domaine André Gagey and farmed under a long-term contract by Jadot.
Domaine Comte Senard	Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru	2021	94	Row 101 - Cell 4	The Clos du Roi presents an exuberant nose with its sweet cherry and raspberry fruit and notes of violets and ginger. The grapes here were the healthiest that the domaine produced, and 10% were fermented as whole clusters. The texture is fresh and crisp, but the body is appropriately substantial. The balance between the sweet fruit, fresh acidity, and lush density is marvelous—among the best wines in the cellar.
Domaine Méo-Camuzet	Corton Clos Rognet Grand Cru	2021	94	Row 102 - Cell 4	For me, this delicious wine was the pick of Méo’s three Cortons (there is also a Perrières and a Vigne au Saint). The colour is dark and pronounced, accessible raspberry fruit aromas with a strong mineral cast provide the first impression. The flavours continue to expand on the palate, with floral notes gracing the rich, densely tannic wine. Méo reports no loss due to frost in this protected site – his portion of Le Rognet et Corton is a walled Clos planted to vines nearly a century old.
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti	Corton Grand Cru	2021	94	Row 103 - Cell 4	The DRC Corton has less exuberance this year than many recent iterations. The vines struggled – yield in Corton was about 4.5 hl/ha; there will be fewer than 1,200 bottles. The wine produced was assembled solely from the old vines in all three climats. There are forward blackberry fruit aromas with hints of fresh flowers, oak spice, and smoke. The tannins are firm and the acidity is fresh and lively. There was still a very high proportion of whole clusters included after a rigorous sorting, but the extraction was very gentle, with less punching down than normal.
Domaine des Croix	Corton Grèves Grand Cru	2021	94	Row 104 - Cell 4	This seldom-seen lieu-dit is just south of much larger Bressandes and similarly exposed to the southeast. The parcel ripens well and has a lush, plumy fruit character with pronounced earth, smoke, and leather elements. The vines are sixty years old, and Croix has fermented about 20% of the small grapes as whole clusters. He picked in 2021 at 13% potential alcohol, and the wine is firm, tannic, and massive. This wine is an imposing effort given the vintage.
Domaine Chandon de Briailles	Corton Les Bressandes Grand Cru	2021	94	Row 105 - Cell 4	From its perch high on the slope, the 1.5-hectare domaine parcel of Bressandes has delivered a wine of deep colour with slightly reticent plummy fruit aromas coloured with notes of earth, smoke, and spice. The texture is balanced and elegant, and the inclusion of 80% of the fruit as whole clusters assures a good amount of liveliness (‘peps’, according to winemaker Claude de Nicolay). The lovely balance leads this wine to a subtly lingering finish that will drink young but should age brilliantly.
Domaine Michel Mallard	Corton Maréchaudes Grand Cru	2021	94	Row 106 - Cell 4	This delicious wine impresses on many levels. The deeply-hued wine is redolent of ripe blackberry and cassis with an overlay of smoke, leather, and salty minerality. The texture is firm and muscular, with plenty of firm, finely-grained tannins and impressive density that is carried by crisp acidity to a satisfying finish. The 0.30-hectare parcel near the base of the slope is planted with old vines in clay soils that deliver small berries and concentrated fruit. In 2021, Mallard fermented 70% of the grapes as whole bunches and aged two of the three casks in new wood.
Anne Gros	Échezéaux Grand Cru	2021	94	Row 107 - Cell 4	Forward, ripe aromas of blackberry and plum feature prominently in this wine. There is depth and complexity from hints of smoke, earth, and peppery spice as the flavours continue on the palate. The 2021 vintage has plenty of tension and freshness and grippy tannins that lead to a lingering finish. Gros harvested 30 hl/ha since her vineyard in the lieu-dit Les Loachausses had been protected with candles. The grapes were completely destemmed and fermented in stainless before ageing in cask (one-third new).
Philippe Pacalet	Échezéaux Grand Cru	2021	94	Row 108 - Cell 4	Pacalet’s Echézeaux is not as forward as some, but there is an earthy, complex set of aromas here with ripe black plums and notes of pepper, smoke, and leather. It takes a moment to open, but the wine is substantial, with rewarding density and length. The grapes come from a half-hectare of old vines in the lieu-dit Clos St-Denis, fermented largely as whole clusters and ageing now in cask, with a modest proportion of new barrels.
Domaine Marc Roy	Gevrey-Chambertin	2021	94	Row 109 - Cell 4	This wine features alluring ripe mulberry fruit aromas with hints of minerals and spice. The texture boasts impressive ripeness and density while retaining the freshness typical of the vintage, and firm tannins carry us to a lingering finish. The wine is produced from tiny grape clusters produced from six old vine parcels in En Jouise, Carougeot, Les Murots, Les Crais, Vignes Belles, and Les Seuvrées. The grapes are destemmed and gently fermented before ageing in cask (50% new). This wine is among the top village-level Gevreys of the vintage.
Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair	Gevrey-Chambertin	2021	94	Row 110 - Cell 4	This cuvée is the opposite of the other Gevrey villages – it is planted in thin (30cm) soils directly on the limestone in the cooling influence of the Combe de Lavaux. It is produced from three parcels that total 1.4 hectares. The lime-rich terroir produces exotic black fruit and floral notes with a pronounced saline minerality. The grapes are completely destemmed and gently fermented. The wine is ageing now in cask, with five new out of eleven casks in total.
Domaine Rossignol-Trapet	Gevrey-Chambertin (1er Cru Aux Combottes)	2021	94	Row 111 - Cell 4	The Combottes from Rossignol-Trapet is a superb value. With its lovely ripe black cherry fruit, subtle, earthy complexity on the nose, and elegant but firm structure, it is more powerful than the premier crus in the stable and should hold up to ageing almost as long as the grands crus. Its only defect is that the parcel, at 0.15 hectares, is small. It is partly destemmed and fermented on native yeasts before ageing in cask (25% new) over two winters.
Domaine Armand Rousseau	Gevrey-Chambertin (1er Cru Cazetiers)	2021	94	Row 112 - Cell 4	The 2021 Cazetiers from Rousseau displays a bright, forward red currant and pomegranate fruit with an edge of violets and minerals. The aromas are high-toned and bright, suggesting the cool vintage, yet there is more depth and density and less acid tension than expected. The grapes come from 0.60 hectares down the slope from Bruno Clair. After cold maceration, the destemmed fruit was fermented on native yeasts and is ageing in used casks.
Domaine Bruno Clair	Gevrey-Chambertin (1er Cru Cazetiers)	2021	94	Row 113 - Cell 4	This dark, powerful wine was made exclusively from the old vines in Clair’s 0.87-hectare parcel of Cazetiers. Clair explained, 'We only saw 4 barrels from 60 [planted] ares; the young vines were all pulled up because of problems with the rootstock. There is a compellingly ripe plummy fruit here, yet no loss of freshness on the palate. The texture is firm and tannic, with great length and a complex, subtle finish. According to Clair, the muscular texture comes from the grey marl soil: 'The vines have to struggle to grow'.
Domaine Philippe Naddef	Gevrey-Chambertin (1er Cru Cazetiers)	2021	94	Row 114 - Cell 4	Surprisingly dark in colour, this has a smoky, ripe mulberry fruit with an earth and mineral edge. The texture shows admirable density, a silky feel, firm tannins, and impressive length. There is enough freshness here to carry the wine to an impressively long finish and enough density to ensure a harmonious balance. The wine is produced from 0.27 hectares of domaine-owned vines, with 20% of the harvest fermented as whole clusters.
Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet	Gevrey-Chambertin (1er Cru Clos St-Jacques)	2021	94	Row 115 - Cell 4	The 2021 vintage was my first occasion to taste Berthaut’s version of Lavaux-St-Jacques, and it was a revelation. She tastes it right before the Vosne Petits Monts, but it is nothing like that wine. Instead, there is a bright, forward cherry fruit coloured with liquorice spice and lush floral notes. Because of the proximity of the cool air of the combe, it is the last to be picked, but the old vines here deliver a dense wine with sturdy tannins and plenty of depth. The vines come from her grandmother, the sister of Robert Sirugue from Vosne.
Domaine Bruno Clair	Gevrey-Chambertin (1er Cru Clos St-Jacques)	2021	94	Row 116 - Cell 4	Bruno Clair explains the supremely delicious nature of his '21 Clos St-Jacques: 'For truly great wines, there are no bad years.' This wine shows a lovely bright cherry fruit aroma with hints of rose petals, crisp, refreshing acidity, and firm-ish tannins. The grapes come from the domaine’s hectare from the Clos; one-third are fermented as whole clusters, and the wine is ageing now in cask (40% new). This should open at an early age but will easily bear at least mid-term ageing.
Louis Jadot	Gevrey-Chambertin (1er Cru Clos St-Jacques)	2021	94	Row 117 - Cell 4	Although initially restrained on the nose, this opens nicely with time. It shows a medium-deep colour and ripe, lush cherry fruit with a floral edge on the palate. The tannins are firm but not overly so. As it is nearly every year, this is a reliable, rewarding example of this premier cru. It comes from the one hectare the domaine owns in the centre of the Clos. The grapes are destemmed and carefully fermented to achieve this subtle elegance.
Domaine Rossignol-Trapet	Gevrey-Chambertin (1er Cru Petite Chapelle)	2021	94	Row 118 - Cell 4	This wine is densely perfumed, with prominent blackberry and rose petal aromas. Texturally, it is rich and lush, yet it also shows great finesse and elegance. There are reserves of tannin and plenty of density, but everything is fully ripe, and there is no astringency or tartness. This half-hectare parcel in rather heavy clay soils downslope from Chapelle Chambertin is in a sunny spot – in 2021, it was not affected by the frost and has delivered a delicious wine.
Domaine Trapet Père & Fils	Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru	2021	94	Row 119 - Cell 4	There is something about the cool 2021 vintage that ‘fits’ with Latricières, where the influence from the Combe Grisard is more pronounced. According to Pierre Trapet, ‘Latricières is the moon; Chapelle is the sun'. Initially, the result is somewhat restrained, with a charming pomegranate fruit emerging on the palate. The feel is linear and concentrated, with a mineral/saline character to the savoury fruit on the palate that carries this to a very long finish and the top level of Gevrey quality.
Domaine de la Vougeraie	Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru	2021	94	Row 120 - Cell 4	The spectacular old vine parcel in Mazoyères is among the treasures of Domaine de la Vougeraie; the 0.70-hectare plot was planted in 1901 and 1902. The domaine sells the wine as Charmes-Chambertin with a prominent mention of Les Mazoyères. The powerful wine has a robust, dark plum and blackberry fruit with a slightly rustic, earthy edge. The texture is firm, tannic, and impressively long on the palate. Fermented entirely as whole clusters it nonetheless shows a lovely elegance along with its manifest power.
Château de Chamirey	Mercurey (1er Cru En Sazenay)	2021	94	Row 121 - Cell 4	The east-facing slopes of Sazenay lie just outside the village of Mercurey; it is the rockiest site in the village. The wine boasts a ripe plummy fruit with leather, smoke, and earth notes. The mid-slope hectare of domaine-owned vines has produced a gloriously ripe wine, even in 2021. The texture is lush and dense. The wine should drink well young, but there is also at least a decade of ageing potential for this lovely wine.
Domaine Dujac	Morey-St-Denis (1er Cru)	2021	94	Row 122 - Cell 4	The nose of the the blended Morey premier cru from domaine parcels has pronounced and nuanced aromas of blackberry and raspberry fruit with a suggestion of spice and earth. There is a slight hint of reduction that should disappear at bottling, and the texture is pleasantly round and silky soft. The grapes come from a blend of lieux-dits that include Les Charrieres, Les Millandes, Les Ruchots, and Clos Sorbè; the total surface area is 0.82 hectares, all picked 27 - 28 September.
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé	Musigny Grand Cru	2021	94	Row 123 - Cell 4	When I tasted, new winemaker Jean Lupatelli was hard at work deconstructing the massive de Vogüé holdings in Musigny. The domaine is now moving to vinify each section separately in smaller tanks, and the results are bound to impress. We sampled three cuvées separated by vine age; their approximate blend was superb, with an expressive currant and blackberry fruit aroma, abundant notes of violets, and an accent of liquorice and mineral. The older vines brought density, weight, and tannin; the younger ones, lively energy.
Thibault Liger-Belair Successeurs	Nuits-St-Georges	2021	94	Row 124 - Cell 4	This delicious village-level Nuits features dark plummy fruit with earth, spice, and leather notes. The texture is supple and dense, and the finish is satisfyingly long. The grapes are sourced from a 0.70-hectare site next to premier cru Les Pruliers. They are partially destemmed and fermented on native yeasts before ageing in cask (half new). The wine has the substance to support this level of new wood, and the wine has the stuffing to age. Fortunately for Liger-Belair, the site was relatively untouched by the frost and produced two more barrels than last year.
Domaine Parigot	Nuits-St-Georges (1er Cru Damodes)	2021	94	Row 125 - Cell 4	This delicious wine has ripe blackberry and plum fruit with notes of violets and spice. The texture is dense and supple, with finely-grained tannins and impressive length. The grapes come from a relatively new parcel for Parigot that he purchased from a grower in Concoeur whose plot was just below those of Leroy. The vines are trained very high, and the grapes are partially destemmed before a gentle fermentation and ageing in cask (40% new).
Domaine des Lambrays	Nuits-St-Georges (1er Cru La Richemone)	2021	94	Row 126 - Cell 4	This substantial 0.89-hectare parcel is among the jewels in the new purchase by Domaine des Lambrays. The vines were planted in 1924. The lieu-dit is in the center of the premier cru band, located below Damodes and above Murgers, near the border with Vosne. This year they delivered an outstanding wine with an immensely aromatic pomegranate and black cherry fruit with a tropical edge and an intense floral perfume. The texture is ripe and concentrated with a velvety density that is infinitely gratifying. This wine is one of the outstanding achievements of this commune in 2021.
Domaine Parigot	Pommard (1er Cru Charmots)	2021	94	Row 127 - Cell 4	The 2021 vintage it delivered a deeply-coloured wine with ripe blackberry fruit and floral notes from this early-ripening parcel. The texture is supple and surprisingly dense with balanced acidity and supple but supporting tannins. The grapes come from a parcel exposed due south next to the premier cru Clos de la Commaraine. The grapes are partially destemmed and carefully fermented before ageing in mostly used casks—lovely wine.
Domaine Violot-Guillemard	Pommard (1er Cru Rugiens)	2021	94	Row 128 - Cell 4	The vines for the Rugiens from Violot-Guillemard are in Rugiens-Haut along the border with Rugiens-Bas. This wine is an appealing compromise between classic, almost tough, Pommard style with firm tannin and plenty of structure and a softer style that is lush and fine, yet long on the palate. The grapes are partly destemmed and gently fermented to produce this wine that has the depth and longevity of a classic Pommard along with a more approachable style. Suited for early drinking, this wine can also age for up to twenty years.
Domaine AF Gros	Richebourg Grand Cru	2021	94	Row 129 - Cell 4	This Richebourg stands out in the A.F. Gros cellar, with its lovely dense black cherry and plum fruit aromas with hints of fresh flowers, minerals, and spice. The wine is dense and compact on the palate, but there is no heaviness, instead, simply velvety power and length. Now that the Gros family has finished their swaps for estate planning, this domaine has 0.50 hectares (instead of 0.60), all in the lieu-dit Verouilles. The grapes are partially destemmed and carefully fermented on wild yeast before ageing in cask (60% new).
Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat	Romanée-St-Vivant Grand Cru	2021	94	Row 130 - Cell 4	An almost incredible rush of ripe plummy fruit with earth, mineral, and spice nuance leads to a texture that is at once dense, compact, and vibrant on the palate. This thrilling wine comes from 0.50 hectares of 100-year-old vines in the heart of Romanée-St-Vivant. The grapes are mostly destemmed before fermentation on wild yeast and ageing in cask (half new). This wine will open with a bit of time and should live for at least thirty years.
Domaine JJ Confuron	Romanée-St-Vivant Grand Cru	2021	94	Row 131 - Cell 4	This expressive, forward wine features lovely ripe cassis and black cherry fruit aromas with an edge of smoke, earth, and mineral notes. The tannins are firm but not excessively so, and there is a pleasantly savoury, almost salty character on the palate that adds depth. The grapes come from a half-hectare parcel planted in 1926 between Leroy and Hudelot-Noëllat. The quantity of oak seems high, but the ripe fruit easily supports it and is not overly marked by the elevage. The grapes are mostly destemmed and firmly extracted before ageing in cask (80% new).
Domaine Chandon de Briailles	Savigny-lès-Beaune (1er Cru Lavières)	2021	94	Row 132 - Cell 4	The forward, accessible plummy fruit with notes of violet, earth, and savoury complexity in this Savigny premier cru are immediately engageing. Although the body is somewhat light, the fresh acidity and supple tannins carry this to an elegant conclusion. The grapes come from a 2.61-hectare parcel at the top of the slope planted in thin soils over slabs (‘laves’) of limestone. Half of the grapes were fermented as whole clusters to add complexity and freshness—among my favourites from Savigny this year.
Domaine des Comtes Lafon	Volnay (1er Cru Santenots)	2021	94	Row 133 - Cell 4	The Santenots du Milieu from Lafon is marvelous wine and among my favourites among the Volnay premier crus, with its perfumed red and black fruit and pleasant floral notes. The texture on the palate is dynamic, with fresh acidity that carry the wine to a pleasantly lingering finish. There is enough extract and ripeness to the tannins to avoid any astringent notes. This wine represents the best of the 3.8 hectares of Santenots du Milieu in the heart of the appellation—a magnificent parcel that consistently produces one of the best red wines south of Corton.
Domaine d'Eugenie	Vosne-Romanée (1er Cru Aux Brûlées)	2021	94	Row 134 - Cell 4	The mature vines in Aux Brûlées produced only two barrels in 2021 instead of nine the following year. Despite the minute yields of less than ten hl/ha, the result is superb, with a lovely, expressive ripe cherry fruit with pronounced rose petals and mineral notes. The texture is supple and fresh but not lacking in density. The grapes from the best part of the vineyard were partially destemmed and gently fermented before ageing in cask (one new of two).
Domaine Méo-Camuzet	Vosne-Romanée (1er Cru Aux Brûlées)	2021	94	Row 135 - Cell 4	This is ripe and smoky up front, with a black cherry and mulberry fruit aromas and mineral and earth notes. The texture of the wine is dense and firm but enlivened by the fresh acidity of the 2021 vintage that carries it to a marvelous, lingering finish. The grapes come from Méo’s 0.72-hectare parcel planted in the 1930s. The grapes are destemmed and fermented on native yeasts before ageing in cask (half new). This will show well sooner than the grand crus but should also have the substance to age for several decades. Wonderful wine.
Domaine des Lambrays	Vosne-Romanée (1er Cru Beaux Monts)	2021	94	Row 136 - Cell 4	This stunningly delicious wine is a ‘secret’ that will not be available for years. It comes from a recent purchase by the Domaine des Lambrays of a parcel of 0.45 hectares in Beaux-Monts Haut, exposed south. Because of an existing farming agreement, Lambrays will not be able to commercialize the wine until after 2030, but already the results are wonderful, with complex aromas of ripe blackberry fruit with hints of menthol, cigar leaf, smoke and earth. The texture is ripe and supple, but firmly tannic and very long.
Domaine Méo-Camuzet	Vosne-Romanée (1er Cru Les Chaumes)	2021	94	Row 137 - Cell 4	The Vosne Les Chaumes from Méo opens a bit slowly, but eventually it shows a lovely, expressive blackberry fruit with mineral and floral notes. The texture is substantial—firm and tannic with fresh acidity and a lengthy finish. The grapes come from two parcels that total just over two hectares, located just below Malconsorts. The vines are very mature and produce small clusters of concentrated, tannic fruit that Méo is not afraid to punch down and age with 50% new casks in order to deliver this muscular, dense wine.
Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat	Vosne-Romanée (1er Cru Les Suchots)	2021	94	Row 138 - Cell 4	The ancient vines in the domaine’s 0.45-hectare parcel of Suchots were planted more than a century ago. They give a wine of impressive density and a lush, ripe red and black fruit sweet berry fruit character that exemplifies what the French call ‘sucrosité’—sugary-ness. Still, this wine has the structure, depth, and grip to bring everything into balance. This wine is an outstanding example of Vosne premier cru that has the potential to improve for twenty to thirty years in the cellar.
Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair	Vosne-Romanée (1er Cru)	2021	94	Row 139 - Cell 4	The catastrophic conditions of 2021 have produced this wine, a blend of the premiers crus Petits Monts, Suchots, Chaumes, and Brûlées blended (usually, they are vinified and bottled separately). However, the low yields of the year have delivered a wine of great concentration, with open, lush blackberry and plum aromas with floral and mineral notes on the attack. The texture is vibrant and fresh, but there is substance here as well, and this should age well for two to three decades. This wine is an impressive effort in a challenging year.
Domaine Alexandre Parigot	Savigny-lès-Beaune (1er Cru Les Peuillets)	2021	94	Row 140 - Cell 4	UNDER THE RADAR TOP VALUE This is a marvellous Savigny, with ripe plummy fruit and hints of liquorice, spice and earth, and a ripe, dark density and firm tannic grip on the palate. Impressive wine with lovely balance and power, this represents Parigot’s ideal: ‘I love reds that are super-ripe but retain their freshness’. It is produced from a parcel next to the winery of Bouchard Père et Fils; the grapes are fermented on native yeasts with 40% whole clusters and gently but firmly managed. The wine is still ageing in cask (30% new).
Château de Chamirey	Mercurey (1er Cru En Sazenay)	2021	94	Row 141 - Cell 4	UNDER THE RADAR TOP VALUE This delicious wine shows impressive quality and elegance for the vintage, with lush aromas of blackberry and plum, a firm mineral note and hints of earth and cedar. The texture is firm and structured, but the fruit is fully ripe, and there is no astringency. It is produced from the rocky hectare of vines at a higher elevation facing east/southeast. Proprietor Amaury Devillard notes, ‘the glory of time is to understand, and we finally understand this site’ – he used to blend grapes from here into the Mercurey rouge, but now it stands on its own.
Domaine Pierrick Bouley	Volnay (1er Cru Clos des Chênes)	2021	94	Row 142 - Cell 4	UNDER THE RADAR Impressive wine, showing dense plummy fruit with notes of earth, spice and mineral on the initial attack. There is a robust, structured feel on the palate with plenty of tannin and extract, yet everything is in superb balance here, and the wine lingers elegantly on the admirable finish. Bouley assembles two parcels totaling 0.37ha. The grapes are destemmed and given a week’s cold soak before a gentle fermentation with minimal extraction and ageing in cask (two new barrels out of seven).
Domaine Trapet Père & Fils	Gevrey-Chambertin	2021	94	Row 143 - Cell 4	This impressive wine features pronounced, forward aromas of ripe black cherry with prominent spice and earth notes. The texture is fresh and tannic, and a clear salty mineral note comes through on the finish. It's produced from four parcels on the border with Brochon, the oldest of which was planted in 1913 – even with replanting, the average age is 90 years. The plots total 1.5ha; ‘Ostrea’ refers to the oyster shells found throughout the limestone soils. There is a bit less whole bunch inclusion in 2021, but this maintains the classic, elegant Trapet style.
Domaine Alexandre Parigot	Beaune (1er Cru La Perrière)	2021	94	Row 144 - Cell 4	This Hautes-Côtes is a surprisingly deep garnet colour, with attractive cherry fruit aromas and floral accents, a supple texture, bright acidity, and a rewarding depth and ripeness on the palate. The weight is fairly light but the balance and elegance carry the wine. The grapes are from a spectacular five hectare clos at 400 meters elevation with old vines planted low to the ground and picked by hand before a gentle fermentation with a small percentage of whole clusters and aging in cask (30% new).
Domaine Amiot-Servelle	Chambolle-Musigny (1er Cru Les Borniques)	2021	94	Row 145 - Cell 4	Les Borniques is a step up in the Amiot-Servelle portfolio, with a lovely raspberry/blackberry fruit, ample floral notes, and just a touch of menthol and attractive, lightly bitter accent notes that give impressive complexity. The texture is fresh and crisp, but there is a sweetness to the fruit that imparts a velvety sensation and leads to a wonderfully lingering finish. The fruit from the 0.11-hectare holding is fermented directly in cask, yet has swallowed up the wood tannins to present a seamless whole.
Domaine Cécile Tremblay	Chambolle-Musigny (1er Cru Les Feusselottes)	2021	94	Row 146 - Cell 4	This alluring wine has a fragrant, spicy floral nose with more black fruit than red and hints of clove and peppery spice. The colour is relatively deep, and the texture is impressively dense. What is most striking, however, is the sweet fruit and floral notes that persist on the palate in a way quite uncharacteristic of 2021—produced from the domaine plot of nearly a half-hectare that comes from the Edouard Jayer estate (uncle of Henri Jayer).
Chateau de la Tour	Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru	2021	94	Row 147 - Cell 4	A superb effort in 2021 has produced stunning results at Château de la Tour. This ripe, aromatic wine features dark blackberry and plum fruit with earth, mineral, and smoke notes. The texture is firm and tannic, with admirable balance and finesse, given the vintage conditions. The Labet family decided to forgo their 'Hommage à Jean Morin' cuvée this year and put all of this old vine fruit into the 'Vieilles Vignes’ bottling to produce this delicious result.
Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair	Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru	2021	94	Row 148 - Cell 4	Bright and forward, this is a very appealing wine in 2021. Even if it is still just finishing its malolactic conversion, one can see the charm in this wine with its forward cherry and raspberry fruit with its floral and mineral notes. The texture is supple and approachable, but it does not lack tannin or substance. It is an exquisite expression of the Clos, produced from purchased grapes that the team at Liger-Belair cares for themselves in a plot near the southern extremity of the Clos.
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé	Chambolle-Musigny (1er Cru Les Amoureuses)	2021	94	Row 149 - Cell 4	This wine is a lovely, textbook example of Amoureuses, with fragrant red and black berry fruit, rose petal floral notes, and a bit of spice. The texture is plump and approachable without the reserve of the Bonnes-Mares. It has supple tannins, balanced acidity, and a luxuriously long finish. Production is extremely limited since Lupatelli has convinced the owners to replant one-third of the vineyard. The winemaking is also being renewed and is now done in small vats keyed to the size of the holding. The attention to detail is evident in this wine.
Domaine de Montille	Vosne-Romanée (1er Cru Malconsorts)	2021	94	Row 150 - Cell 4	This wine is a standout version of this appellation with reliable quality even in a difficult vintage. The wine shows a dark ruby colour and intense blackberry and fruit aromas with plenty of earthy, spicy nuance. There is a bit of reduction that will undoubtedly vanish during aging. The texture has tension, structure, and length, but there is enough ripeness here to ensure a very rewarding generosity, and intense sorting assures the admirable purity of the fruit.
Domaine Joliet	Fixin (1er Cru Clos de la Perrière)	2021	94	Row 151 - Cell 4	This wine continues to be a touchstone for the northern Côte de Nuits. The wine is still aging, so we tasted each component separately. The northern part of the vineyard is a bit less forward; it is more tannic, and the acidity is sharper. The southern part is more generous and fleshy. An approximate blend shows deep colour, lush, plummy fruit, plenty of spice and menthol, and a firm, dense structure that retains a velvety approachability and lingers on the palate. Delightful.
Domaine Dujac	Gevrey-Chambertin (1er Cru Aux Combottes)	2021	94	Row 152 - Cell 4	This wine makes one stand up and take notice with its lovely cherry/floral fruit expression and plenty of depth on the nose. The texture is firmly tannins, with plenty of freshness and impressive depth. The ripe fruit echoes on the lengthy finish. For me, this is often the best value in the portfolio; that may be true this year too. It is produced from a 1.16-hectare site acquired in 2005 (making them the largest owner in the appellation). This year they picked the fruit on 29 October.
Edouard Delaunay	Nuits-St-Georges (1er Cru Argillas)	2021	94	Row 153 - Cell 4	This wine is a perfect example of a Nuits premier cru, with its medium-deep ruby colour and pronounced aromas of cassis and curranty fruit with an edge of rose petals and a bit of smoke. The texture is supple and relatively dense, and the finish is long. This site on the north side of the village, with eighty-year-old vines planted in clay soils, is subject to the windy influence of the combe, producing a classic Nuits profile.
Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat	Vosne-Romanée (1er Cru Les Beaumonts)	2021	94	Row 154 - Cell 4	The Beaumonts from Hudelot-Noellat has ripened well despite the vintage and the location, showing a lovely plummy fruit with rose petal notes on the nose and a supple texture with silky tannins that are firm but not astringent and impressive length. The parcel that Charles van Canneyt farms is 0.30 hectares at the top of the slope in very thin soils, but he has worked wonders this year.
Domaine Jessiaume	Santenay PC Les Gravières Numerus Clausus	2021	94	Row 155 - Cell 4	This special selection from the eighty-year-old vines from the domaine's impressive 5.5 hectares of Gravières sets a new standard for Santenay Les Gravières. The wine has significantly more ripeness and depth of blackberry fruit flavours along with marvellous nuances of earth and mineral, liquorice and clove, leather, and menthol on the nose. There is a lovely supple density on the palate and imposing length. Impressive wine by any standard.
Domaine Michel Lafarge	Volnay (1er Cru)	2021	94	Row 156 - Cell 4	An almost tragic cuvée – Lafarge did not produce enough wine to make any of his premier cru wines from Volnay as a stand-alone appellation, and all five are blended here into a single premier cru bottling. The result has a fairly deep ruby hue, a lovely plummy fruit, and lots of aromatic intensity. It is a wine of outstanding quality, given the circumstances, with fresh acidity, good density and supple tannins. Lafarge remarked 'It has both the generosity of the Clos des Chênes, the minerality of Taillepieds, and the noblesse of the Clos du Château des Ducs.’
Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg	Nuits-St-Georges PC Les Chaignots	2021	94	Row 157 - Cell 4	After drought limited production in 2019 and 2020, 1.27 hectares of old vines at the top of the slope in Chaignots were damaged by frost, losing 55% of the potential harvest, although rot and mildew were not as endemic here. The fruit that remained produced lovely wine with a deep ruby colour and perfumed aromas with pronounced blackberry fruit and floral notes. There is impressive ripeness on the palate balanced by fresh acidity and a solid core of tannin that carries the wine to a lingering finish
Philippe Pacalet	Corton Les Bressandes Grand Cru	2021	94	Row 158 - Cell 4	During COVID, the Pacalet family worked the eighty-year-old vines themselves in the Corton-Bressandes plot they rent. The east-facing site, almost directly on the bedrock, has delivered a powerful but elegant wine in 2022, with ripe blackberry fruit coloured with hints of earth, smoke, and leather. This wine is lush and wine, but there is an essential sturdiness to the tannins and fresh acidity that is still very 'Corton' – an excellent introduction to the Pacalet style.
Domaine Georges Roumier	Morey-St-Denis (1er Cru Clos de la Bussière)	2021	94	Row 159 - Cell 4	Roumier’s Clos de la Bussière is consistently among the best values among the top flight of Burgundy producers. The 2021 vintage is no exception, with its lovely density of plummy fruit on the initial attack, nuance of liquorice and clove, and hints of smoke and earth. The texture on the palate has a beautiful density without heaviness, marvellous length, and enough structure to let this wine age gracefully. Roumier has extracted carefully but firmly, using half whole clusters and punching down and pumping over carefully to ensure optimal concentration.
Domaine Georges Roumier	Chambolle-Musigny (1er Cru Les Cras)	2021	94	Row 160 - Cell 4	This lively, energetic wine sparkles with freshness and balance. The aromas are more black fruit than red, with hints of fresh rose petal, menthol, spice, and earth. The tension on the palate is evident, with fresh acidity and noticeably firmer tannins. The wine manages impressive length without being heavy. It is produced from Roumier’s impressive 1.75-hectare parcel in the lime-rich soils near Les Fuées and fermented with 60% whole clusters.
Domaine Yvon Clerget	Pommard (1er Cru Rugiens)	2021	94	Row 161 - Cell 4	This delicious Rugiens encompasses all of Pommard's firm, tannic appeal, but there is a silky, velvety side as well. The plummy fruit is very forward on the nose and shows a charming nuance of earth, cigar leaf, and mineral. The texture is lush and sensuous without lacking any of the typicity of Pommard. Thibaud farms 0.85 hectares of 45 year-old vines in Rugiens Haut. His yield was seven barrels instead of the customary twenty, which he fermented as 20% whole clusters and is now aging with no new casks.
Domaine Yvon Clerget	Volnay (1er Cru Clos du Verseuil)	2021	94	Row 162 - Cell 4	The expressive fruit character of this wine displays notes of ripe cherry and rose petals, and a texture on the palate that is mineral and bright. It is a wine of great elegance, not as robust as the Rugiens or the Clos Vougeot in the same cellar, yet with a charm all its own. The grapes from the seventy-year-old vines in this 0.45-hectare monopole behind the winery in the center of the village are usually destemmed 100%, and one senses the depth of flavour despite the light elegance of the wine.

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Burgundy 2021 red wine score table

See also

Burgundy 2021: full report and top scoring wines