Light summer reds and rosés from the shores of Lake Garda: Bardolino and Chiaretto
Recommendations for Bardolino and Chiaretto wines from the shores of Lake Garda...
As Michaela Morris so deftly explained last year, Bardolino has undergone important changes in the last few years. In an effort to not be left behind by competitors – not just in Veneto, or Italy, but elsewhere around the world – the Consorzio has worked with producers to update the style of the rosé wines (known as Chiaretto) and implement three historical crus for the reds.
The red Bardolino DOC has assumed three crus based on historical subzones. These crus of La Rocca, Montebaldo and Sommacampagna were originally identified at the end of the 19th century, however, it is only very recently that these have become officially recognised. In the new regulations, these crus are subject to lower yields with longer maturation and must be approved in a blind tasting by a panel of judges.
Meanwhile, after several years of behind-the-scenes work between the Consorzio and consultant Angelo Peretti, the Chiaretto rosés of Bardolino began transitioning from the traditional dark pink style – a by-product of red wine production where a portion of juice was run off to increase the skin/must ratio – to much paler, salmon-pink wines.
Chiaretto DOC
This is more than just a change in aesthetic: Chiaretto is a separate DOC as of the 2018 vintage, and the quality of the wine clearly benefits from grapes being grown, harvested and fermented with Chiaretto in mind. The reduction in skin contact helps to bring more elegance and aromatics, as well as the paler colour, and the result is a new style that – whether producers like it or not – can be compared with those from Provence. If you like that light, slightly spicy style, then Chiaretto is certainly worth a try.
The Bardolino subzones:
Sommacampagna
Covering the villages of Bussolengo, Pastrengo, Sommacampagna, Sona and Valeggio, this cru is situated in the southeast part of Bardolino. It is the warmest of the three subzones and also the wettest, and is characterised by its many hills, wide valleys and terraces.
La Rocca
Covering the villages of Bardolino, Castelnuovo, Garda, Lazise, Peschiera and Torri, this cru lies on the eastern shores of Lake Garda. The soils here are fine and the terrain is hilly.
Montebaldo
Covering the villages of Affi, Caprino, Cavaion, Costermano and Rivoli, this cru lies at the northeast of the Bardolino area, at the foot of Mount Baldo. Consequently, vineyards are on average at higher altitudes here.
Chiaretto and Bardolino – 12 to try:
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Gorgo, Chiaretto di Bardolino, Veneto, Italy, 2019
90
Based in the village of Custoza, Gorgo has produced a delicious Chiaretto here with a lovely balance of red-fruited, gum-tingling acidity and cool, fresh raspberry juice and wild strawberry. There's a waft of herbiness on the mid-palate then a long, fresh finish. Drink this with antipasti and mixed grilled vegetables.
2019
GorgoChiaretto di Bardolino
Monte del Fra', Chiaretto di Bardolino, Veneto, Italy, 2019
89
From vines located at Sommacampagna, a commune situated to the southeast of Lake Garda at 100-150 metres above sea level. This displays strawberry and raspberry aromas followed by an invigoratingly fresh palate with delicate wild herb notes alongside juicy raspberry, redcurrant and strawberry. The finish is steely and dry. Drink with a starter of melon and Parma ham.
2019
Monte del Fra'Chiaretto di Bardolino
Guerrieri Rizzardi, Keya, Chiaretto di Bardolino, Veneto, Italy, 2019
89
From vineyards in Cavaion and Bardolino, this Classico is full of strawberry, raspberry and wild herb aromas, leading to a palate that's broad and fleshy. Flavours of creamy cherry and raspberry fruits are joined by a touch of spice. It's very Provencal in style and finishes bone dry with delightfully fresh acidity. Drink with grilled seafood or antipasti.
2019
Guerrieri RizzardiChiaretto di Bardolino
Lenotti, Decus, Chiaretto di Bardolino, Veneto, Italy, 2019
88
From the eastern shores of Lake Garda on gravelly soils comes this delicate Chiaretto with soft notes of cherry and raspberry and a gentle, clean acidity on the mid-palate. A basic expression but perfect for a long, lazy lunch of grilled fish and home-fired pizza.
2019
LenottiChiaretto di Bardolino
Cavalchina, Chiaretto di Bardolino, Veneto, Italy, 2019
87
Cavalchina has a long history. It was founded in the early 1900s and was the first estate to label its white with the Custoza title, in 1962. In keeping with the modern style of Chiaretto, this wine is now made separately from the red (it was previously a by-product). This has some pithy aromas with citrus and sweet cherry hints. In the mouth it's relatively soft, the wave of fresh acidity slowly advancing on the mid-palate preventing the sweet cherry and strawberry fruits from tasting too cloying. It finishes quite dry and steely, although there's perhaps a touch of residual sugar remaining.
2019
CavalchinaChiaretto di Bardolino
Le Morette, Chiaretto di Bardolino, Veneto, Italy, 2019
87
Made in the Classico subzone where the finest terroir is located, this Chiaretto displays focussed red fruit aromas with some texture and creaminess in the mouth, followed by black pepper on the finish. The acidity seems a touch lower than most of the others tasted here, making it feel a bit softer in the mouth, and there's perhaps just a touch of residual sugar.
2019
Le MoretteChiaretto di Bardolino
Le Fraghe, Bardolino, Veneto, Italy, 2019
90
From the Montebaldo subzone, the most inland part of Bardolino which sits at the foot of Mount Baldo, this wine has light scents of hedgerow fruit and damp earth. Prickly, brambly fruit arrives in the mouth joined by a cranberry tang and a touch of spiciness. It has very light, soft tannins and balancing, fresh acidity. A lovely summery wine with a gorgeous silken texture. Try it with a selection of young cheeses.
2019
Le FragheBardolino
Casaretti, Olte Longhe, Bardolino, Classico, Veneto, Italy, 2018
90
Sourced from a selection of vines in the Olte Longhe vineyard - planted in 2001 - in the cru of Montebaldo, this wine spends about 12 months in 20hl oak barrels then at least six months in bottle. Dusky scents of hedgerow fruits and damp earth are followed by bright, juicy cherry, raspberry and baked red fruit flavours. The acidity just peeks through and keeps things playful, and there are neat touches of pomegranate and herbs on the finish.
2018
CasarettiBardolino
Giovanna Tantini, Bardolino, Veneto, Italy, 2017
88
This wine, from vineyards at 100 metres above sea level in the La Rocca subzone, is aged for 15 months in stainless steel and a further 3 months in bottle. Hedgerow fruit aromas are followed by cherry, raspberry, chocolate and spice flavours. The finish is quite short, but it's an appealing wine that's worth pairing with a mushroom risotto or cured meats.
2017
Giovanna TantiniBardolino
Santi, Ca'Bordenis, Bardolino, Classico, Veneto, Italy, 2018
88
From a 6ha vineyard in the Montebaldo subzone, at 130 metres above sea level. A simple cherry nose belies an intense palate with plenty of acidity - almost too much. Black and red cherry flavours mingle with hedgerow fruits and wild herbs. It's deliciously soft but a bit short.
2018
SantiBardolino
Albino Piona, Bardolino, Veneto, Italy, 2016
87
The Sommacampagna subzone in the southeast part of Bardolino is the warmest and wettest of the three. This wine has a nose of stewed red fruits, particularly strawberry. Flavours of baked red fruits are joined by a touch of peppery spice, but the bright acidity is more prominent than it should be due to the fading palate. This is the oldest wine here and it shows. Drink soon
2016
Albino PionaBardolino
Casaretti, La Nogara, Bardolino, Classico, Veneto, Italy, 2018
87
The La Rocca subzone lies on the eastern shore of Lake Garda. The hills here are calcareous, silty, sandy and full of stones. This wine spends at least eight months in stainless steel before bottling. It has light cherry and herb scents, followed by an intense attack of bright cherry and raspberry fruits. It's a touch on the rustic side, and the finish isn't particularly long, but it's instantly enjoyable.
2018
CasarettiBardolino
