Decanter’s top Panel Tasting wines 2020
The top-scoring wines tasted by our expert panels in 2020 offer a great overview of the expression and quality being delivered across regions and styles. With logistics complicated by a global pandemic, it was somewhat of an achievement to make all these tastings happen - but the outcome seems to have justified the effort.
Conducting our panel tastings this year was not without challenges. Logistical issues, travel restrictions and precautionary measures meant that there was much uncertainty, rejigging and rescheduling. Still, our team, judges and submitting producers stood firm and made them possible in one way or another.
The diversity and quality of the top-scoring wines shows that the effort was fruitful. And that these tastings are particularly pertinent when it comes to understanding a specific vintage, grape or region. By engaging different palates and minds around a line-up of samples, it is possible to have a more critical and objective view.
Decanter Panel Tastings 2020:
1391 wines tasted
Exceptional 3
Outstanding 52
Highly Recommended 445
The year kicked-off with an assessment of new-release English sparkling wines. Quality was overall high among the varied styles and the line-up was a good showcase of the trial-and-error stage of an industry that is still blooming. Our panel found that vintage variation, use of oak and the choice of variety played a more crucial part than regionality in shaping the quality of the samples tasted. But only one wine made it beyond the 95 points mark.
New World Single Vineyard Pinot-Noirs, on the other hand, feature prominently in our top-scoring round up, with the wines showing great varietal and regional character. Although New Zealand and Chile comprised more than half the wines submitted, the judges singled out South Africa’s Hemel-en-Aarde and Elgin wines for consistently high quality and regional expression, despite the small number entered.
Our Affordable Rioja expert panel found it harder to frame typicity and expressiveness. The region’s identity is itself shifting and if the regional style was, until now, mostly shaped in the cellar, there’s an increased shift to less heavy-handed, more terroir-driven winemaking. Still, plenty of high-scorers at great value.
Garnacha Blanca may not be as well-known as Spain’s other native white grapes, but for adventurous wine lovers that’s undoubtedly part of its appeal. Our expert panel confirmed that in the hands of talented winemakers, it can be a hidden gem. Wines were tasted regionally and one region in particular – Catalunya – was a highlight for all three judges.
Scroll down for our top scoring Panel Tasting wines 2020
The result of the assessment of the northern Rhône appellations (Cornas, Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage) in one of the region’s most talked-about – 2010 – speaks for itself: just 33 samples yielded 1 exceptional, 7 outstanding and 19 highly recommended wines. ‘The ratio is the best I’ve ever had in a tasting,’ said Christian Honorez . Although some of the wines needed considerably more time in bottle to be at their best, and some were too influenced by oak, the outcome was overwhelmingly positive.
Chianti Classico Riserva and Gran Selezione 2015 and 2016 also delivered a stellar line-up which the judges praised for the freshness and accessibility of the wines despite the warm vintages. The panel found the best samples to have great depth and definition, offering immediate drinking pleasure but also great ageing potential.
But quality can also come from less predictable places and that was perhaps the case with our Corbières panel tasting. It delivered good results and also a great line-up of bottles in the £10-15 bracket. The judges highlighted the youthfulness, expressiveness and drinkability of the wines and were surprised by the consistency of a tasting to which they arrived, assumedly, with low expectations. Andrew Jefford was clear when stating that ‘this was certainly the most successful Corbières tasting I’ve ever done,’.
High expectations, on the other hand, are inevitable when it comes to Barolo. With only 29 wines to be tasted, our experts agreed that the Barolo 2006 line-up was perhaps not representative enough, especially given that this is sometimes considered a controversial vintage. Still, our judges agreed that best wines were showing great poise and beautiful evolution, still retaining enough structure and freshness to be aged longer.
Sancerre was, unsurprisingly, the big star of the Loire Sauvignon Blanc tasting. But Touraine also showed well, with expressive wines at the affordable price points. The judges arrived with some scepticism, namely about the 2018s, but this proved unfounded; they left convinced of the expressiveness and vivacity of all the vintages on show (2017, 2018 and 2019). The panel unanimously highlighted the incredible food-pairing potential of the best wines.
You might be surprised to find two Italian sparkling wines on this list but this is testament to the quality and consistency our judges found in the Traditional Method Italian Sparkling Wines line-up. Although the lack of availability outside Italy might be cause of frustration.
Our first 2021 Panel Tasting: Non-vintage Champagne
Availability is something that is certainly not an issue when it comes to Provence Rosé. With a whopping 178 samples submitted, our judges got a broad overview of one of the most popular categories in the market. The definition and quality of the cru classé wines was cause for positive surprise. The 2019s stood out, as did the Ste-Victoire and Bandol appellations.
The recipe for a perfect rosé? ‘Creaminess from the lees, phenolics from the skin giving enough but not too much fruitiness, acidity and weight, and many of them had all of those in good harmony’ said Rod Smith MW. Some of what you’ll find in the five wines that made it above 95 points.
From a familiar to a maverick category: South American Syrah. Entries from Chile, Argentina and Brazil earned top scores with quality and consistency. ‘When South American Syrah is good, it’s certainly as good as Australia and New Zealand,’ summed up Alistair Cooper MW. But the judges agreed there’s room for growth and refinement.
Our 2020 Panel Tastings closed with a particular highlight: California Cabernet 2016. Although smaller than usual, the line-up still delivered the highest number of outstanding wines – a total of nine bottles that shine in the list below. The judges praised the vintage’s charms and, in the best examples, elegance. They all picked out Alexander Valley AVA for its particular bright acidity, vivid blue-fruit character and alcohol restraint. But the region remains challenging when it comes to price.
Top scoring Decanter Panel Tasting wines 2020
The following wines scored 95 points and above.
Read next:
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Napa Valley Cabernet 2018: Top 10 producers and 10 wineries to watch
Fairmile Vineyard, Classic Cuvée, England, United Kingdom
Established in 2011 by local couple Jan and Anthea Mirkowski, Fairmile Vineyard is situated on steep south-facing slopes composed of flinty, chalky marl. 12,000 rootstocks...
Fairmile Vineyard
Marcalberto, Millesimato, Alta Langa, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
With six hectares of vineyards located in the Santo Stefano Belbo, Cossano Belbo, Calosso and Laozzolo regions of Langhe, this small, family run winery focusses...
2016
MarcalbertoAlta Langa
Deltetto, Brut, Alta Langa, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Established in 1953 in the heart of the Roero region by Carlo and Catterina Deltetto, the estate initially produced still red and white wines. When...
2016
DeltettoAlta Langa
Herència Altés, La Serra Blanc, Terra Alta, Catalonia, Spain, 2017
Established in 2010 by Núria Altés and Rafael De Haan, Herència Altés is located in the village of Batea in the Terra Alta DO. From...
2017
Herència AltésTerra Alta
Edetària, Selecció, Terra Alta, Catalonia, Spain, 2016
Saline and stoney, fresh and ripe. Ripe, fleshy, warm peachy fruit on the palate with fresh acidity to balance. Good freshness but also warmth and...
2016
EdetàriaTerra Alta
Lucien Crochet, Les Calcaires, Sancerre, Loire, France, 2017
95
<p>Gilles and Laurence Crochet have been running this pioneering domaine since 1983. Gilles' two grandfathers Lucien Picard and André Crochet merged their two businesses back in the 1950s and were one of the first estates to sell their wines to restaurants in Paris. Before taking on the management of the domaine, Gilles spent six years making wine in Burgundy to broaden his knowledge. The Les Calcaires hails from a series of plots on their 35 hectares of vineyards ranging from 240-280 metres above sea level and which feature 'Caillottes' and 'Griottes' limestone soils. Organic fertilisers have been used since 1989.</p><p>JB: Attractive vibrant fruit, fresh, finesse and complexity. Lovely wine - very clean and precise.</p><p>RG: Slightly sweaty rather reductive Sauvignon that expands on the mid palate but concludes with a linear, slightly sherbetty finish.</p><p>CK: Brilliant energy and aromatics here, massive focus and grip, acid precision too. A young wine set up for the cellar.</p>
2017
Lucien CrochetSancerre
Domaine Claude Riffault, Les Boucauds, Sancerre, Loire, France, 2018
<p>Les Boucauds is one of 14 communes within the Sancerre appellation and is rich with Kimmeridgian limestone-clay soil. The Domaine owns a total of 13.5...
2018
Domaine Claude RiffaultSancerre
Clos Cibonne, Cuvée Hommage à Marius, Côtes de Provence, Cru Classé, Provence, France, 2017
This 15ha property overlooking Toulon harbour has been part of the Roux family’s ancestry for almost 230 years. It wasn’t until 1930 that André Roux...
2017
Clos CibonneCôtes de Provence
Domaine de la Bégude, Irréductible, Bandol, Provence, France, 2019
Overlooking the Mediterranean, this 600ha estate in Bandol houses 22ha of vineyards surrounded by forests and olive groves at about 400m above sea level. With...
2019
Domaine de la BégudeBandol
Château la Coste, Coteaux d'Aix en Provence, Provence, France, 2019
95
Launched in 2008, this certified organic and biodynamic estate situated between Aix-en-Provence and the Luberon National Park houses not only vineyards and a modern winery designed by French architect Jean Nouvel, but a spa hotel complete with 28 villa suites, restaurants and an art gallery. The winery itself is made up of two large corrugated iron cylindrical buildings with a vast chamber 17m below ground containing all the vats and wine storage. This wine is a blend of 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 10% Cinsault from the 208ha vineyard surrounding this beautiful luxury complex. Elizabeth Gabay MW: Strong pink. Good weight and structure – quite a serious rosé with lots of intense, wild red berry fruit, a few black berries, mineral core and firm phenolic finish. A lovely, serious, gastronomic rosé. Joanna Simon: Deep dayglow copper-pink. Peach and pear aromas, quite complex. Fleshy peach and peppery spice on the palate. Full-bodied, powerful, rich and leesy. Complex. Rod Smith: Mid-pale pink colour. Earthy cranberry and raspberry fruit aromas. Some spice. Fruity and flavoursome, with good depth and spice. Balanced acidity and some creaminess.
2019
Château la CosteCoteaux d'Aix en Provence
Clos Cibonne, Cuvée Tradition Tibouren, Côtes de Provence, Cru Classé, Provence, France, 2018
Planted on the hills of the Maures mountains, the average age of these well-ventilated Tibouren vines is about 20 years, on free-draining, salty clay soils...
2018
Clos CibonneCôtes de Provence
Lafran-Veyrolles, Bandol, Provence, France, 2015
One of the oldest wine estates in Bandol, 10ha Lafran-Veyrolles dates back to 1641 when it existed as a country house with grounds featuring vineyards,...
2015
Lafran-VeyrollesBandol
Stéphane Ogier, La Belle Hélène, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2010
A completely family-run estate, the Ogiers previously sold their grapes to Chapoutier and Guigal, before beginning to produce their own wines in the 1980s. Joining...
2010
Stéphane OgierCôte-Rôtie
Crystallum, Cuvée Cinema, Hemel-en-Aarde, Western Cape, South Africa, 2018
A family run winery, Crystallum was established in 2007 by brothers Andrew and Peter-Allan Finlayson. Although they began by making Sauvignon Blanc, the winery now...
2018
CrystallumHemel-en-Aarde
Tolpuddle, Pinot Noir, Coal River Valley, Tasmania, Australia, 2018
Planted in 1988, the Tolpuddle Vineyard is situated in Tasmania's Coal River Valley, and is composed of 20ha of north east facing Chardonnay and Pinot...
2018
TolpuddleCoal River Valley
Castello di Verduno, Monvigliero Riserva, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy, 2006
Nebbiolo was first produced at Castello di Verduno in 1838. In the early 20th century, the Burlotto family bought the property, opening a hotel and...
2006
Castello di VerdunoBarolo
Craggy Range, Te Muna, Martinborough, Wairarapa, New Zealand, 2017
Founded in 1993, Craggy Range is known for its wines from both Gimblett Gravels in Hawke's Bay and Te Muna Road in Martinborough. The Te...
2017
Craggy RangeMartinborough
Penner-Ash, Estate Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton, Oregon, USA, 2017
Located in Oregon's Willamette Valley, Penner-Ash Wine Cellars was founded in 1998 by husband and wife team Lynn and Ron Penner-Ash. The first female winemaker...
2017
Penner-AshWillamette Valley
Cave de Tain, Grand Classique, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2010
Located at the foot of the Hermitage hillside, Cave de Tain is a co-operative which produces wines from Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, St-Joseph, Cornas and St-Péray. Founded...
2010
Cave de TainHermitage
Domaine Durand, Empreintes, Cornas, Rhône, France, 2010
Established by brothers Éric and Joël Durand in 1983, Domaine Durand owns 20ha of vineyards across Cornas, St-Joseph and St-Péray, with a small parcel of...
2010
Domaine DurandCornas
Casa Marín, Miramar, San Antonio, Chile, 2012
Founder of Casa Marín, María Luz Marín is the first female winemaker and winery owner in Chile. In 2000, she ignored advice from colleagues and...
2012
Casa Marín
Marcarini, Brunate, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy, 2006
The Marcarini family has been producing wine in Piedmont for six generations and owns much of the Brunate vineyard area where the grapes for this...
2006
MarcariniBarolo
Moorooduc Estate, The Moorooduc McIntyre, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia, 2017
Moorooduc Estate is a family-run wine business, established in 1982 by Richard and Jill McIntyre. The McIntyre vineyard sits on a gentle north to north-westerly...
2017
Moorooduc EstateMornington Peninsula
Newton Johnson, Seadragon Pinot Noir, Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, Walker Bay, South Africa, 2017
Newton Johnson is a family owned and operated winery located in the Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, established in 1995. The Seadragon Pinot Noir is sourced from...
2017
Newton JohnsonUpper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley
Schubert, Block B Pinot Noir, Martinborough, Wairarapa, New Zealand, 2016
Established in 1998 by Kai Schubert and Marion Deimling, both Geisenheim University Viticulture and Oenology graduates from Germany, Schubert has 14ha of vines in and...
2016
SchubertMartinborough
Cave de Tain, Epsilon, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2010
Sourced from two separate terroirs in Hermitage (L'Hermite and Le Méal) on granite and fluvio-glacial alluvial soils, Epsilon is Cave de Tain's flagship Hermitage, with...
2010
Cave de TainHermitage
E Guigal, Ex-Voto, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2010
Founded in the small Côte-Rôtie village of Ampuis by Etienne Guigal in 1946, E.Guigal is one of the Rhône valley's best known producers. Ever keen...
2010
E GuigalHermitage
Ferraton Père & Fils, Le Méal, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2010
Ferraton Père & Fils was established in 1946 by Jean Orëns Ferraton and his son, Michel. Working with Michel Chapoutier, they have used organic and...
2010
Ferraton Père & FilsHermitage
Tardieu-Laurent, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2010
Founded in 1994 by Michel Tardieu and Dominique Laurent, Maison Tardieu Laurent is today overseen by Michel Tardieu and his oenologist son, Bastien. A négociant...
2010
Tardieu-LaurentCôte-Rôtie
Vidal-Fleury, Brune et Blonde, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2010
The oldest continually operating winery in the Rhône valley, Vidal-Fleury was established in 1781, and has been owned by Guigal since 1984. An extensive new...
2010
Vidal-FleuryCôte-Rôtie
Emiliana, Salvaje, Casablanca Valley, Chile, 2018
Voted by Wines of Chile as 'Winery of the Year 2016', Emiliana is a pioneering winery producing wines from organically and biodynamically farmed grapes with...
2018
Emiliana
Finca Las Glicinas, Terciopelo, Uco Valley, Altamira, Mendoza, Argentina, 2018
The grapes for the Terciopelo Syrah are grown in the deep rocky soils of the 15-year-old Paraje Altamira vineyard which is located in the foothills...
2018
Finca Las GlicinasUco Valley
Guaspari, Vista da Serra, Brazil, 2017
In 2001, the Guaspari family began to plant vineyards in the Espírito Santo do Pinhal Highlands, an area 200 kilometres from São Paulo which was...
2017
Guaspari
Black Stallion, Limited Release Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California, USA, 2016
<p>The name Black Stallion is a tribute to the Silverado equestrian centre, which once occupied the site now home to the winery. Grapes for its...
2016
Black StallionNapa Valley
Black Stallion, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California, USA, 2016
<p>Black Stallion’s history in the region stretches back nearly a century, when in 1924 Sicilian-born Gaspare Indelicato planted a vineyard in Manteca, California. This blend...
2016
Black StallionNapa Valley
Gallica, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, Oakville, California, USA, 2016
<p>From Gallica’s Oakville Ranch vineyard, soils here are volcanic in origin with a distinct red appearance. Over the years, the role of Cabernet Franc in...
2016
GallicaNapa Valley
Peter Franus, Brandlin Vineyard, Napa Valley, Mt Veeder, California, USA, 2016
<p>Peter Franus enrolled in Fresno State’s viticulture and oenology programme in 1978 and shortly afterwards found himself winemaker at Mount Veeder Winery. He started his...
2016
Peter FranusNapa Valley
Rodney Strong Vineyards, Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley, California, USA, 2016
<p>Rodney Strong has grown Cabernet Sauvignon in the Alexander Valley since 1971 and today farms four different plots in the AVA. Harvesting for the fruit...
2016
Rodney Strong VineyardsSonoma County
Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, Artemis, Napa Valley, California, USA, 2016
Sitting outside its Estate Collection, the Artemis represents Stag’s Leap’s effort to capture the regional essence of Napa Valley. Sourced from a total of six...
2016
Stag's Leap Wine CellarsNapa Valley
Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, Cask 23, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District, California, USA, 2016
<p>The grapes for this wine come from Stag’s Leap’s two esteemed estate vineyards, with 56% of the fruit sourced from Fay and 44% from SLV....
2016
Stag's Leap Wine CellarsNapa Valley
Tor, Cabernet Sauvigon, Napa Valley, Oakville, California, USA, 2016
<p>The Cabernet Sauvignon for this 2016 came from the steep, warmer upper block of the 1.5ha Tierra Roja vineyard, with its characteristic large rocks and...
2016
TorNapa Valley
Trinchero, Mario's, Napa Valley, California, USA, 2016
<p>second largest producer of single-vineyard wines in Napa Valley. Named after founder Mario Trinchero, this site surrounds its St Helena winery. The gravel, loam and...
2016
TrincheroNapa Valley
Cave d’Embres-et-Castelmaure, Les Hauts de Castelmaure, Corbieres, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2018
Embres-et-Castelmaure is a tiny village in Corbières with about 150 residents, all of whom are grape-growing families and many are members of the local cooperative,...
2018
Cave d’Embres-et-CastelmaureCorbieres
Château Saint-Estève, H de M, Corbieres, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2017
Château Saint-Esteve owes its name to the Chapel of the Virgin built near the abundant spring that still provides the estate with its water. This...
2017
Château Saint-EstèveCorbieres
Domaine Serres Mazard, Cuvée Henri Serres, Corbieres, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2017
The Mazard family has a legacy of winemaking dating back to 1545 in the Corbières region. In 1975 it joined a local cooperative of growers...
2017
Domaine Serres MazardCorbieres
Ceretto, Bricco Rocche, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy, 2006
The Ceretto winery was established in the 1930s; however, it was a trip to Burgundy in the 1960s that inspired brothers Bruno and Marcello Ceretto...
2006
CerettoBarolo
Monti, Bussia, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy, 2006
In 1996, 30-year-old Paolo Monti purchased this historic estate in Monforte d'Alba and with his friend Roberto Gerbino started producing a range of varieties from...
2006
MontiBarolo
Parusso, Bussia Riserva, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy, 2006
Gaspare Parusso acquired his first vineyard in 1901, though it wasn’t until the 1980s that the family started producing wine on a commercial basis. Today,...
2006
ParussoBarolo
Giovanni Sordo, Perno Castiglione Falletto Riserva, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy, 2006
The Giovanni Sordo estate was founded in 1912 and, with a total of 53ha of vineyards, is the only producer to vinify eight different Barolo...
2006
Giovanni SordoBarolo
Castello di Ama, San Lorenzo Gran Selezione, Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy, 2016
From the 25.5ha San Lorenzo vineyard, which, at 466m-525m, was one of the first to be acquired by the company in 1972, after it was...
2016
Castello di AmaChianti Classico
Frescobaldi, Tenuta Perano Riserva, Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy, 2016
This Riserva, from the highly regarded 2016 vintage, has spent 24 months in Slavonian oak barrels plus further time in bottle. Rich, ripe aromas of...
2016
FrescobaldiChianti Classico
Riecine, Riserva, Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy, 2016
Established in 1971 by Englishman John Dunkley and his wife Palmina Abbagnano, Riecine released its first Chianti Classico in 1975 –John felt that the addition...
2016
RiecineChianti Classico
Bibbiano, Vigna del Capannino Gran Selezione, Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy, 2016
Dating back to 1865, the 30ha property is now run by fifth-generation brothers Tommaso and Federico Marrocchesi Marzi. The 7ha Capannino vineyard is located on...
2016
BibbianoChianti Classico
Burgo Viejo, Licenciado Reserva, Rioja, Baja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2016
95
Bodegas Burgo Viejo is the property of six farming families and comprises more than 200ha of vineyards in the Rioja Oriental region, from where the more full-bodied styles of Rioja are produced (see ‘Regional Profile’, p42). Historically, the bodegas sold their high-quality grapes to neighbouring wineries, until the arrival of the young winemaker Gorka Etxebarria, who saw the potential for them to produce excellent wines themselves. Tempranillo is a firm favourite for this producer, despite Garnacha being the most widely planted grape in the area, and they certainly make a success of it, going by the many accolades they have received over the years. Sarah Jane Evans MW: Distinctly pure, vivid reserva, precise style: limpid fruit, brisk acidity, notable but well balanced oak. Classic. Simon Field MW: Intense colour, powerful aromas of tar and blue fruit; minty savoury, rich, lifted and long; an impressive reserva statement of intent. Pierre Mansour: Classy, spicy black fruit, full, round, generous – depth yet beautifully balanced, very classy, effortless.
2016
Burgo ViejoRioja
Escudero, Serna Imperial Reserva, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2010
95
The Escudero family started making wine in 1852 and, four generations on, it is still very much a family business. They own a total of 150ha of vineyards, of which 120ha are located on the southern slopes of the Monte Yerga mountain range, where the grapes for this wine are produced. The vines are grown at between 450m-800m above sea level and are approximately 40 years old. Predominantly made from Tempranillo blended with Mazuelo and Garnacha, this reserva was aged for 14 months in five-year-old American oak barrels followed by a further 28 months in bottle. Sarah Jane Evans: Supple, juicy, well-balanced, fully rounded. A lovely vintage and a great wine. Simon Field: A broad and generous mouthfeel, the tannic grip still persuasive, but acidity is wrapped around the black fruit core with subtle conviction. Pierre Mansour: Liquorice and dark fruit, compact, quite complex, framed by muscular tannins, underlying depth that unfurls in the glass, and really good length.
2010
EscuderoRioja
