Limoux report 2023: Latest releases tasted

Limoux 2022 vintage rating: 4 / 5

Limoux 2021 vintage rating: 3.5 / 5

The wines of Limoux stand somewhat apart from many of the other wines of Languedoc; the use of Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Merlot and Cabernet Franc seems at odds to the use of Mediterranean varieties like Carignan, Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre elsewhere.

But the reality is that the climate here is different; it’s cooler and wetter, less baked by the southern sun. Mediterranean varieties would have a tough time of ripening. Driving south from warm, dry, windy Carcassonne, the clouds descend and the air becomes more moist. Both Atlantic and Mediterranean climatic influences are felt here.

See the Languedoc report 2023 homepage

Four distinct terroirs have been identified in the Limoux area:

Terroir Méditerranéen – to the northeast of the town of Limoux and the closest area to the Mediterranean sea, this is the warmest of the four terroirs, with sea breezes, an altitude of 100m-200m, and an average of 650mm rainfall per year, with the earliest harvest.

Terroir d’Autun – just to the southeast of Limoux, this has the least amount of average rainfall per year at 570mm, and is warmer and drier.

Terroir Océanique – to the west of Limoux, this terroir has the highest average annual rainfall at 780mm. Altitude rises from 200m-300m, and it’s a more temperate and humid climate, with Atlantic influence as opposed to Mediterranean.

Terroir Haute Vallée – the highest and coolest of the four terroirs, with high average annural rainfall at 750mm. Altitude can reach over 300m, in the foothills of the Pyrenees.

Figures obtainted from the Sydicat des Vins AOC de Limoux

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top Limoux wines from 2021 & 2022

See all Limoux latest releases rated

2021

The growing season

Spring brought widespread frost across much of France and pockets of vineyards in Limoux were affected. James Kinglake, owner of Domaine Begude, says the ‘frost at the end of April…decimated our lower, less windy vineyards’. However, other areas were spared the worst of the damage.

Where other Languedoc regions then experienced very dry conditions into summer, much of Limoux was subject to a warm and wet June and July, with a few summer storms. August remained relatively cool, with more rainfall, which in some cases delayed ripening.

The cooler, higher reaches of the Haute Vallée de l’Aude in the south of the appellation experienced a mostly cool vintage, ‘there was enough water and temperatures were sufficiently fresh to maintain a nice balance between maturity and acidity,’ says Camille Fort of Domaine de Mouscaillo. Geneviève and Gilles Azam of Les Hautes Terres, also in the Haute Vallée de l’Aude, say that 2021 is ‘elegant and discreet,’ but stress that both 2021 and 2022 are both ‘very atypical vintages which really show how the climate is changing’.

Sparklings

Limoux sparkling wines have deep historical roots: production dates back to Roman times, and with the range of styles made they are some of the most interesting and enjoyable sparklings to drink outside of Champagne.

Both vintage and non-vintage sparklings were tasted for this report. Because Crémant can only be bottled after 1 December following the harvest and must then rest on its lees for nine months, most of the vintage wines on show right now are 2021 and 2020, although some opt for longer ageing.

The two top-scoring sparklings were both Crémants from 2020, showing good concentration of ripe fruit and a wonderfully creamy mousse. The Blanquettes made from 100% Mauzac scored better than those with even a small percentage of Chardonnay and Chenin.

Whites

Still whites from Limoux have been allowed within the appellation since 1959, so I’m always surprised that they’re not more well known. A particularity of Limoux still whites is that they must be aged in barrels. These can be new, old, small or large. Even though the use of new oak has been scaled back in recent years, some wines, both white and red for that matter, are still marked by oak characteristics, which can detract from the purity and freshness of the fruit. The best have used oak fastidiously, to give texture and an integrated toasty, honeyed, grilled complexity without an intrusive oak profile.

Mauzac was the original pin-up grape for white Limoux, and Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc weren’t authorised until 1993. Nowadays all three are used in blends or as single variety wines – another rare particularity in Languedoc.

Chardonnay has become popular in this region over the years, not least because it’s easy for consumers to pronounce but also because it’s recognisable and therefore popular on export markets. However, even in this cooler part of the Languedoc, it seems that Chardonnay might be having problems. ‘Chardonnay is suffering enormously from climate change,’ say the Azams, and Kingslake says that Chardonnay yields in 2021 were low.

Overall the still white 2021s show a pure, crystalline fruit profile and good acidity, and I like their lean citrus seam.

Reds

The reds of Limoux, introduced into the appellation in 2004, must include between 45% and 70% of Merlot and at least 20% of Malbec, Syrah and/or Grenache, with Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon allowed as secondary varieties.

The rain and cooler temperatures of 2021 have produced some slightly green wines. The Domaine de Baronarques Grand Vin Rouge 2021 did have great depth of cassis fruit, but also some tight and drying tannins.

There is potential for Limoux reds however it does feel that many haven’t quite found their groove, and oak is still liberally applied.

See the Languedoc latest releases score tables:

All top-scoring wines

All top-scoring white wines

All top-scoring red wines

2022

The growing season

In contrast to 2021, the 2022 vintage was much warmer and drier. ‘We had no rain from mid-May until the very end of August,’ says Kinglake.

As a result, ‘the harvest was early,’ says Camille Fort, ‘and there’s a little more fat than in 2021’.

Rain at the end of August provided the vines with much-needed refreshment. At Domaine Begude it ‘prompted the vines in to ripening correctly and we picked a few days after the downpour,’ says Kinglake.

Whites

My highest-scoring white 2022s were Chenin Blanc / Chardonnay blends, which showed lovely bright florals and fresh, pure citrus fruit.

Many of the 2022 single-variety Chardonnays are rich and generous, with soft, creamy opulence that comes as much from oak as from the ripe fruit of the vintage.

Give them another six to 12 months in bottle to open up. Most will also offer good ageing potential.

The local Mauzac variety, which is prone to oxidation, does well with careful handling and I find its apple scents incredibly enticing, but its unique character can easily be obscured. Sadly there aren’t many producers making 100% Mauzac still whites, but those from Domaine de Mouscaillo and Domaine du Grès Vaillant are particularly charming, with some of Mauzac’s typical apple profile but also a good grating of citrus zest and balancing acidity.

Individual appellation analysis:

Corbières & Minervois | La Clape | St-Chinian | Faugères | Picpoul de Pinet | Terrasses de Larzac | Pic St Loup

Top-scoring wines

Sparkling

Antech, Cuvée Eugenie Brut, Crémant de Limoux 2020 – 92 points

Domaine de Mouscaillo, Brut Nature, Crémant de Limoux 2020 – 92 points

White

Les Hautes Terres, Louis, Limoux 2022 – 93 points

Château de Gaure, Limoux 2021 – 93 points

Red

Domaine de Baronarques, Grand Vin Rouge, Limoux 2021 – 90 points

Top five value wines

Clos Teisseire, Vue Sur Ciel, Haute Vallée de l’Aude 2022 – 92 points

Domaine Rosier, Cuvée Ma Maison, Blanquette de Limoux 2021 – 91 points

Domaine J Laurens Clos des Demoiselles Brut Crémant de Limoux 2021 – 90 points

Domaine Begude, L’Etoile, Limoux 2022 – 92 points

Plô Roucarels, La Petite Rive, Haute Vallée de l’Aude 2022 – 90 points

Top five producers to look out for

Clos Teisseire

Leaving a nursing job behind to retrain as a winemaker, Laetitia took over this domaine from her father-in-law when he retired in 2016. Lots of promise here, one to watch.

Domaine de Mouscaillo

A new generation takes the reins here in young winemakers Thomas and Camille Fort. Quoting the likes of Agrapart and xxx as inspirations, this duo look set to take this long-standing family domaine to new heights.

Domaine du Grès Vaillant

A new project lead by the young Aigline de Causans and Laurent Maffeïs since 2017, Domaine du Grès Vaillant has eight hectares of vines among 70ha of woodland and meadow.

Domaine J Laurens

Sparkling specialists and creators of fine, elegant, excellent value bubbles.

Les Hautes Terres

A true reference point not only in Limoux but in the whole of Languedoc for organic wines of great purit, precision and aromatic complexity.

See the Languedoc report 2023 homepage

Tasting notes and scores for the top 30 Limoux latest releases:

The wines below are listed by style then by score.

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