South American old-vine reds: Panel tasting results
In such a wide-ranging tasting, high scores across the board showed that South America’s old-vine wines are now decidedly coming into their own.
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Alistair Cooper MW, Dirceu Vianna Junior MW and David Williams tasted 116 wines, with 8 Outstanding and 70 Highly Recommended.
South American old-vine reds panel tasting scores
116 wines tasted
Exceptional 0
Outstanding 8
Highly recommended 70
Recommended 34
Commended 3
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Fair 1
Poor 0
Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their red wines from any South American country, from any grape and vintage, and composed of single varietals or blends with the proviso that all blend components are from old vines aged 30 years or more
When you have old vines, you have heritage in your hands. With that heritage comes a responsibility to do the absolute best with what you have inherited.’ So said judge Dirceu Vianna Junior MW, adding: ‘Judging by this tasting, they are doing a phenomenal job in South America.’
Old vines are a hot topic in wine circles. One of the most discussed issues (among many) is their potential for resilience in the face of climatic adversity. Old vines appear to be better equipped to deal with climatic extremes such as drought and floods – understandably an extremely relevant issue.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top-scoring South American old-vine red wines
For this tasting, the specification of 30 years-plus to qualify as ‘old vine’ led to a considerable amount of entries. In the context of South America, and specifically Chile, that may be considered extremely young by some, especially growers in the southerly areas of Maule, Itata and Bío Bío. Here, unirrigated centenarian País and Moscatel vines are common, and anecdotal reports suggest vines up to 300 years or more are ensconced in the rolling granitic hills.
What really shone through was the sense of place and typicity that many of these wines showed. David Williams commented: ‘Five years ago I don’t think we would have seen this consistency. What struck me was that the winemaking wasn’t intrusive and suggested a sensitivity to the attributes of the old vines.’
Vianna concurred. ‘In the past, they seemed to be “putting make-up” on these wines. Here, very few times did we mention oak or excess, nor were the tannins overworked. They are letting the old vines speak for themselves, hence this tasting was such a pleasure.’ I also found great concentration and intensity of fruit in many of the wines, and with very balanced alcohol levels – again, perhaps this was a result of the lighter-handed winemaking.
What also made it so fascinating was the diversity of wines, both grape varieties and styles. From the stalwarts such as Argentinian Malbec, Chilean Cabernet and Uruguayan Tannat to the more diverse such as Chile’s País, Cinsault and Carignan and Argentina’s Criollas. For Williams, País really stood out. He felt that it has truly turned a corner to become a valid and exciting category. I agree. Winemakers really seem to be understanding how to manage extraction with País, allowing the attractive tannic rusticity to be shown alongside the grape’s trademark wild and herbal side, as well as a purity of red fruits.
In Argentina, a strong showing from Malbec was good to see, concentration and vivacity being consistent traits. Special mention also goes to Uruguayan Tannat, with Williams noting: ‘It is in a really good place. They always wanted to try and tame the Tannat, and now they are respecting it. Perhaps that is also due to the older established vines.’
A closing thought from Vianna: ‘It was a great tasting, and on the evidence of today the best custodian of old vines in South America is unequivocally Chile. Yet also it was sad not to see any wines from Bolivia, Peru and Brazil.’ What this tasting undoubtedly showed is the need to safeguard this old-vine heritage for as long as it remains economically viable to do so.
The top-scoring South American old-vine reds:
The judges
Alistair Cooper MW is a wine consultant, writer, broadcaster and educator with a particular focus on South America. President of the Cata d’Or wine awards in Chile, he is also consultant wine buyer for United Cellars in Sydney.
Dirceu Vianna Junior MW is a wine writer, consultant, educator and broadcaster. Moving to the UK in 1989, he spent much of his career as wine director for some of the UK’s most prominent wine distributors, and in 2008 he became the first South American male to obtain the Master of Wine title.
David Williams is a regular contributor to Decanter, wine correspondent for The Observer, deputy editor of The World of Fine Wine, and a columnist for trade magazine The Wine Merchant.
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Deep and opulent nose, dark fruits, violet and cocoa. On the palate it is ripe, juicy and sophisticated with refined tannins. Complex and long. Structured.
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An attractive savoury earthy note alongside toasty oak, dark cassis and forest fruits. Great intensity and concentration allied with firm structure and good acid. Plush,...
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Carmen, Delanz, Apalta, Colchagua, Chile, 2020

Youthful and attractive aromas of dark fruits, cedar and leafy notes.Subtle herbal and soy underpin ripe blackcurrant, mouth filling and juicy. Great concentration of fruit...
2020
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Cerro Chapeu, Since 1752 Gran Tradición, Rivera, Uruguay, 2016

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2016
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A floral note mingles with blueberry and mint. Lots of oak here but it works very well in combination with the structured dark fruit. Reminiscent...
2018
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Los Cerros de San Juan, Maderos, Colonia, Uruguay, 2017

Defined and focused including notes of dark fruits of the forest, liquorice and a hint of spice. The palate has firm and chalky tannins, good...
2017
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Mendel, Finca Remota Malbec, Uco Valley, Paraje Altamira, Mendoza, Argentina, 2019

Very attractive nose of crushed violets, smoky notes and graphite. A lovely juicy burst of cherry-plum on the mid-palate. Rich texture yet with zippy freshness...
2019
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Concha y Toro, Carmín de Peumo Carmenère, Cachapoal Valley, Chile, 2019

Floral notes combine with vanilla, cocoa, graphite and spice. On the palate it is ripe, juicy, overt with intense fruit and delicious savoury complexity.
2019
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La Cayetana, Malbec, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina, 2019

Harmonious, seamless. Perfectly ripe fruit such as blackberries and dark cherries underpinned by ripe round tannins and harmonious freshness.
2019
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Marichal, Grand Reserve A Tannat, Etchevarría, Canelones, Uruguay, 2018

Restrained with subdued aromas of dark fruits and meaty with some spice. A sleek palette with sandy tannins, great concentration of fruit and a smoky...
2018
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Pisano, RPF Tannat, Progreso, Canelones, Uruguay, 2018

Chocolate, dark fruits, spice and leather on the nose. Wonderful high contrast between big, brawny structural framework and some cassis and graphite tones. Lots of...
2018
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Undurraga, TH Rarities Garnacha- Cariñena- Monastrell, Cauquenes, Maule Valley, Chile, 2020

Wild strawberry and cassis nose. Packed full of fruit, dark cherry, strawberry and a bitter orange note with good freshness. Cocoa notes on the long...
2020
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Graffigna, Genuine Collection Reserve Malbec, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, 2020

Forest fruits, crushed blueberry and cassis. Fine chalky tannins. Good seam of dark berry sappy juiciness and crunch. Weighty but well balanced.
2020
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Altocedro, Reserve Old Vine Malbec, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, 2018

Ripe and high-toned forest fruit compote. Sophisticated and inviting on the palate, excellent concentration of fruit, superb refined structure. Great energy here and a layered...
2018
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Kaiken, Mai Mendoza Malbec, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina, 2018

Pure dark fruit nose, crushed blueberry, liquorice and thyme.Very good concentration of fruit and remarkable savoury complexity. Brooding with life on the finish.
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KaikenLuján de Cuyo
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Intriguing nose of dried rose, cranberry, cherry, smoked game and bilton nose. On the palate it is generous, ripe, juicy with silky tannins, balancing freshness...
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Still youthful on the nose, dark fruit led. A juicy big mouthful of fruit that carries the oak very well to the tangy finish. It...
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Bright blueberry juice with a sprinkling of vanilla, cassis, leafy and floral notes. Soft mouthfeel with fine tannins, rich palate and moderate acidity, silky and...
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2020
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Herbal notes, white pepper, cedar and damp earth. Zippy freshness with sturdy tannins and a chalky mouthfeel.
2019
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De Martino, Old Vine Series Las Olvidadas, Itata Valley, Chile, 2019

High-toned strawberry and violets. Chewy tannins and good fruit character, has an interesting textural density but with good freshness too. It will benefit from time...
2019
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Don Melchor, Cabernet Sauvignon, Puente Alto, Maipo Valley, Chile, 2020

Packed full of vibrant fruit, plum, blackberry and tar. Exceptional concentration of fruit and sophisticated tannins. Oak and spice but lots of juicy curranty fruit.
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2017
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Proemio, Barrel Selection, Mendoza, Argentina, 2018

Bright and engaging plum, cherry, cedar and pencil lead on the nose. On the palate it has good concentration and attractive savoury complexity. A layered...
2018
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Montes Toscanini, Gran Tannat Premium, Las Piedras, Canelones, Uruguay, 2019

Developed, complex and inviting displaying notes of dark fruits, wet earth, cocoa powder, dried herbs, leather and spices. Well balanced palate with layered fruit and...
2019
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Sottano, Selección del Enólogo Malbec, Perdriel, Mendoza, Argentina, 2020

Lovely nose, savoury and herbal as well as bright and floral. A streak of violet and a lovely juicy burst of cherry-plum on the mid-palate....
2020
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SottanoPerdriel
Nieto Senetiner, Partida Limitada Bonarda, Luján de Cuyo, Agrelo, Mendoza, Argentina, 2019

Classy and seductive showing notes of ripe dark fruits, chocolate, dried herbs and sweet spices. Soft palate, good fruit and rounded tannins. Great freshness and...
2019
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Luis Felipe Edwards, Cinso, Itata Valley, Chile, 2021

Very soft fruit, it’s like a punnet of strawberries and raspberries. On the palate it is subtle, sophisticated, round and silky with a long finish....
2021
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Luis Felipe Edwards
Altocedro, Gran Reserve Malbec, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, 2017

Interesting wine combining attractive dark fruits and leathery and earthy complexity. Chewy tannins and a dense palate, liquorice and spice. A cooling eucalypt note on...
2017
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Bouchon, País Salvaje, Maule Valley, Chile, 2021

Rosehip, marjoram and red fruits dominate the nose. On the palate it is pleasant and simple with attractive fruit and well balanced freshness. Sappy tannins....
2021
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Viña Progreso, Old Vines Tannat, Progreso, Canelones, Uruguay, 2018

Good fruit on the nose, plum dark fruit and cocoa. On the palate it has notes of sour cherries and bitter chocolate. It’s big and...
2018
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Tagua Tagua, Gran Reserva, Maule Valley, Chile, 2019

Ripe nose of blackcurrant, chocolate, cedar wood and spice. Lush and full but with bite, definition and a eucalypt finish.
2019
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Tagua Tagua
Undurraga, Red Field Blend, Cauquenes, Maule Valley, Chile, 2020

Blue fruit, earthy notes and spice. Juicy and very seductive palate with freshness and lithe tannins. Bright finish.
2020
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UndurragaCauquenes
Longavi, Glup País, Bío Bío Valley, Chile, 2021

91
Youthful, cherry, tangy with a curious herbal-peppery character. Lots of personality. On the palate it is light, elegant and refreshing with a bright finish.
2021
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Longavi
Bisquertt, Crazy Rows Cinsault, Bío Bío Valley, Chile, 2020

Liquorice root, dark cherry and spice. High-toned and energetic. Crunchy, wild and firm style of Cinsault with noticeable tannins, crisp acidity and buckets of ripe...
2020
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Bisquertt
Carmen, Matorral Chileno, Maule Valley, Chile, 2021

Refined, attractive with aromas of red fruits, floral and citrus peel. Young, but has good depth of fruit, well balanced alcohol and fine tannins.
2021
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Carmen
Fabre Montmayou, Grand Vin, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina, 2018

Opaque colour, attractive and youthful with notes of brambly fruit, cassis, kirsch. Good freshness and a dense chewy palate with sweet oak on the finish.
2018
MendozaArgentina
Fabre MontmayouLuján de Cuyo
Mendel, Malbec, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina, 2019

Invigorating, vivid aromas of wild forest fruits, dried herbs, and spice. On the palate it is generous, well balanced with a long finish.
2019
MendozaArgentina
MendelLuján de Cuyo
Casa Silva, Romano Parras Viejas, Colchagua, Chile, 2021

Beguiling nose! Dark fruits,slight smoky earthy damp earth notes. On the palate it is vibrant and fresh with firm tannins and lively acidity. Lots to...
2021
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Casa Silva
Marichal, Grand Reserve A Tannat, Etchevarría, Canelones, Uruguay, 2015

Lifted aromatics, some red fruit notes as well as cocoa, biltong and cedar. Enjoyably developed savoury tones and mature fruit.
2015
CanelonesUruguay
MarichalEtchevarría
Riccitelli, Old Vines from Patagonia Bastardo, Río Negro, Patagonia, Argentina, 2020

Delicately scented including aromas of red forest fruits and floral notes. Vibrant cherry-ish acidity, gentle chalky tannins and a nice herbal and peppery twang on...
2020
PatagoniaArgentina
RiccitelliRío Negro
Pisano, Arretxea Tannat, Progreso, Canelones, Uruguay, 2015

Intriguing, complex and seductive aromas of dark fruits, leather, cedar, wet earth, dried herbs and spice. Meaty palate with some salted smoky bacon and a...
2015
CanelonesUruguay
PisanoProgreso
Morandé, Adventure Mediterráneo, Maule Valley, Chile, 2018

Generous but complex nose, lots of vibrant dark berry fruit, dried leaves and earthy notes. A wild palate with savoury notes, sophisticated tannins and vibrant...
2018
Maule ValleyChile
Morandé
Morandé, Terroir Cinsault-País, Maule Valley, Chile, 2019

Graceful, restrained and elegant aromas of red and dark forest fruits as well as delicate floral notes. Lovely sweep of juicy fruit and fine tannins...
2019
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Morandé
Benegas Lynch, Cabernet Franc, Mendoza, Argentina, 2019

Attractive nose of raspberry with some floral elements. Well structured, sturdy, firm but sophisticated.
2019
MendozaArgentina
Benegas Lynch
Cold Shower Wines, Mission Impaíssible, Colchagua, Chile, 2019

Very dark, opaque; smells like freshly squeezed black cherry or blackberry juice. On the palate it is dense, overt, ripe, round and juicy.
2019
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Cold Shower Wines
Cousino Macul, Lota, Alto Maipo, Maipo Valley, Chile, 2018

Aromas of ripe dark fruits, chocolate and a hint of sweet spices. On the palate it is bursting with sweet juicy fruit, firm sophisticated tannins...
2018
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Cousino MaculAlto Maipo
La Celia, Reserva Malbec, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, 2020

Restrained, slightly earthy on the nose. Concentration with a crunchy freshness a little tight on the palate but with lively, creamy raspberry fruit and a...
2020
MendozaArgentina
La CeliaUco Valley
Trivento, Golden Reserve Malbec, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina, 2020

90
Bright blue fruit, ripe black cherry, spice, leather with a subtle medicinal edge. Attractive crunchy fruit, full of energy but still firm.
2020
MendozaArgentina
TriventoLuján de Cuyo
Longavi, Glup Carignan, Maule Valley, Chile, 2021

Restrained notes of cherries, blackberries and a hint of floral notes. Languedoc-like aniseed edge. On the palate it is firm and grippy with tart acidity...
2021
Maule ValleyChile
Longavi
Tagua Tagua, Gran Reserva Carignan, Maule Valley, Chile, 2019

Aromas are attractive and inviting including ripe dark fruits and a pleasant vegetal character. Earthy and meaty palate with firm tannins and very bright acidity,...
2019
Maule ValleyChile
Tagua Tagua
Bemberg, La Linterna Parcela No19 Finca Las Mercedes, Cafayate Valley, Salta, Argentina, 2015

Expressive fruit nose, blue fruits, cassis. It combined lovely juicy fruit with complex savoury notes. Great example of Cabernet from Salta that is ageing gracefully.
2015
SaltaArgentina
BembergCafayate Valley
Pedro Parra, Vinista País, Itata Valley, Chile, 2020

Aromatic, very attractive Campari-like melange of herb and bitter red fruit on the nose. The palate is firm and with granular tannins, good freshness and...
2020
Itata ValleyChile
Pedro Parra
Proemio, Grand Reserve Winemaker's Selection, Mendoza, Argentina, 2018

Quite restrained at present with delicate notes of violet, red and dark fruits. Chewy palate with quite prominent cedary oak character and crisp acidity on...
2018
MendozaArgentina
Proemio
Zuccardi, Tempranillo, Mendoza, Argentina, 2018

Developing nose of tobacco leaf and blackberry. Well-integrated oak on bright fruit, luxurious and velvety tannins.
2018
MendozaArgentina
Zuccardi
Garage Wine Co, Sauzal Vineyard Lot 95, Maule Valley, Chile, 2018

Hints of dark fruits, chocolate, spice. Densely packed with firm, forceful tannins and a great burst of acidity. Cocoa nibs and kirsch on the finish.
2018
Maule ValleyChile
Garage Wine Co
Miguel Torres Chile, Los Inquietos 01, Maule Valley, Chile, 2019

Graceful and attractive aromas of blackberries, cassis, tobacco, garrigue and violets. Vivid fruits with a firm tannic backbone and fresh acidity. Young and still evolving...
2019
Maule ValleyChile
Miguel Torres Chile
Cadus, Signature Series Criolla Chica, Uco Valley, Vista Flores, Mendoza, Argentina, 2020

Classy and seductive displaying notes of dark cherries, blackberries and cassis. Something Pinot-ish about it. Wonderfully round and harmonious with silky tannins and vivid freshness.
2020
MendozaArgentina
CadusUco Valley
Odfjell, Orzada Carignan, Maule Valley, Chile, 2019

Very big and ripe with intense dark fruits, dark chocolate, bacon and spice. Lovely freshness, attractive rounded tannins. Big, broad and powerful wine.
2019
Maule ValleyChile
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Tagua Tagua, Descomplicados Barbera, Maule Valley, Chile, 2020

Bright cherry, leather and cranberry. That intensity of fruit is modulated by the wonderfully vibrant cherry acidity and the attractively sandy tannins. Sleek and polished,...
2020
Maule ValleyChile
Tagua Tagua
William Fèvre Chile, Chacai, Pirque, Maipo Valley, Chile, 2019

Ripe and full, a blockbuster with intense dark fruits, chocolate and sweet spices. Dense palate with rich textured fruit, warming alcohol but well balanced by...
2019
Maipo ValleyChile
William Fèvre ChilePirque
Domaines Barons de Rothschild, Caro, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina, 2018

Promising, elegant and refined nose including blackberries, blueberries and spice. Creamy and rich. Moderate acidity, chewy tannins, excellent purity and great length.
2018
MendozaArgentina
Domaines Barons de RothschildLuján de Cuyo
Garcés Silva, Catalino País, Maule Valley, Chile, 2019

Very deep colour. Fragrant with notes of cassis, blueberries and menthol. On the palate it is full bodied, very juicy, vibrant and vivid with firm...
2019
Maule ValleyChile
Garcés Silva
Morandé, Adventure Vigno Carignan, Maule Valley, Chile, 2019

Uplifting, inviting aromas of ripe cherries, mint, basil and succulent blackberry. Lovely brightness and energy to the flow of juicy fruit; a touch of earthiness...
2019
Maule ValleyChile
Morandé
Santa Rita, Bougainville, Alto Jahuel, Maipo Valley, Chile, 2019

On the nose it shows notes of brambley fruits, dried figs, and spice. Rich, powerful, shows good fruit eternity and a very firm structure, should...
2019
Maipo ValleyChile
Santa RitaAlto Jahuel
Valdivieso, Caballo Loco, Curicó Valley, Chile, 2020

Promising nose with aromas of forest fruits, black cherry and dried herbs. Excellent fruit, firm tannins, harmonious acidity. Juicy finish.
2020
Curicó ValleyChile
Valdivieso
Valdivieso, Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Sagrada Familia, Curicó Valley, Chile, 2018

In Curicó, Central Valley, the warm climate of the Punto de Rosa vineyard moulds the character of this complex Cabernet Franc, which features ripe cherry...
2018
Curicó ValleyChile
ValdiviesoSagrada Familia

Alistair Cooper MW writes for various wine publications, including Decanter, Wine Business International and Drinks International. Following several years working for wineries in Chile and Argentina, he moved back to the UK in 2006. He currently consults, judges, hosts events and educates in both the UK and Chile. He was a judge at the 2019 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA).