Walls: Celebrating 50 years of Gigondas

When I have some time to myself in the southern Rhône, my favourite place to relax is the peaceful village of Gigondas. I had even more reason to visit this June, as the growers’ syndicate was celebrating the 50th anniversary of the appellation.

Over a meal at Domaine du Clos des Tourelles, we had the opportunity to taste wines spanning five decades, including a remarkable 1971 that was still very much alive and kicking.

Gigondas has long been recognised as an exceptional site for winemaking, but gaining cru status was a long and arduous journey. It would appear the syndicate’s efforts were hamstrung by a man that many see as a hero in the southern Rhône – Baron Le Roy.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for nine wines highlighting the remarkable ageability of AP Gigondas wines

A long time coming

Winemaking in Gigondas is no recent activity. Château de St Cosme is home to stone fermentation vats built by the Romans 2,000 years ago.

In the late 19th century Gigondas was hit by phylloxera like the rest of the southern Rhône, but by the first few decades of the 20th century Gigondas was winning an array of gold medals in wine shows across France.

There was talk among local growers of protecting the name Gigondas as early as 1929, but when the appellation d’origine contrôlée system was first brought into being in 1935, the appellation committee chose Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Tavel to represent the Rhône. Lirac followed in 1947. Everywhere else in the southern Rhône was grouped together under the regional Côtes-du-Rhône appellation.

The winemakers of Gigondas believed their village had been unfairly overlooked, and they made their first appeal to the newly established appellation authorities in 1948.

The president at the time was Baron Le Roy, owner of Château Fortia in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the man who spearheaded the movement that created the appellation d’origine contrôlée system. The idea of having more than one cru in the Vaucluse was not one that appealed to him.

After much wrangling, Gigondas was allowed to append its name after AP Côte-du-Rhône on the labels. But the growers still weren’t satisfied.

When Baron Le Roy died in 1967, the Gigondas syndicate promptly made a fresh appeal to the appellation authorities that same year: the motion was passed. But it wasn’t until 6 January 1971 that the village was officially promoted to Appellation Gigondas Contrôlée, making it the fourth southern Rhône cru.

Fifty years of progress

Gigondas has seen considerable change since it was promoted. Under the appellation rules drawn up in 1971, Carignan wasn’t permitted. So – for good or for ill – it was all ripped out. It was replaced mostly with Syrah, and over time winemakers gradually introduced Mourvèdre.

Intrepid vignerons cleared and planted the higher, fresher slopes among the jagged mountain peaks, and advances were made in viticulture, such as improved canopy management and green harvesting.

More and more private domaines have since established themselves – there are now over 100, and over 40 négociants active in the appellation.

Gigondas today – and tomorrow

Today the growers’ syndicate is led by the gifted Louis Barruol of Château de Saint Cosme, and one of their most recent projects is the Grenache Conservatory. It’s a vineyard populated with 380 genetically unique plants, grown from cuttings taken from healthy old vine material from around the appellation. Instead of buying clones, local growers can in turn take cuttings from these plants that will enrich their vineyards for years to come.

What’s the next step for the appellation?

‘I think by the end of 2023 we’ll have Gigondas blanc,’ says Barruol. Currently the appellation is only allowed for red and rosé, but white wines have long been produced here too.

He’s particularly convinced by the potential of Clairette. ‘If our ancestors planted it here, they did it for a reason,’ says Barruol, pointing out how well it performs on limestone soils.

Having tasted some excellent white wines from this terroir, including a delicious Domaine la Bouïssière at the 50th anniversary meal, it would seem a logical progression.

It was poignant to finish our celebrations in Gigondas with a 1971 from Domaine du Cayron – the year the appellation was promoted to cru.

Great terroirs produce wines that can age for decades – for 50 years, even. In fact, make that 51. And counting.

Fifty years of AP Gigondas: a remarkable terroir

Related content:

Walls: The magic of mature Gigondas

Walls’ hidden gems: Moulin de la Gardette, Gigondas

Cairanne promoted to Côtes du Rhône cru