When asked which is the most exciting appellation in the Rhône, there’s one that currently springs to mind before all others: Tavel.
I have to be honest with you: I don’t buy much rosé. So, given that Tavel is, according to The Oxford Companion to Wine, ‘one of France’s few all-rosé appellations,’ my response might be unexpected.
The Oxford Companion is technically correct, of course – the wines made here are paler than a typical red wine. But compared to other rosés, that’s where the comparison ends.
First and foremost, Tavel is a great terroir, and great terroirs make profound wines, no matter the colour.
That’s not to say that all Tavel is great – far from it. But there’s a growing band of winemakers, led by a visionary by the name of Eric Pfifferling, which is dragging Tavel out of the blind alley in which it had found itself.