French fear ‘chateau’ may be allowed on non-estate imports
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French wine producers are preparing a defence against the possibility the EU may allow US imported wines to be called chateau or clos.
Writing on the wall? EU to rule on use of ‘château’ on imports
The decision will be taken as part of a wider meeting on Common Agricultural Policy (CAP) reforms at the European Parliament in Brussels on 25 September.
French producers say that allowing American wine producers to sell their wines in Europe using the French words château or clos would be an attack on French heritage – and competitive advantage.
In France, use of the term château is subject to strict control – it must refer to an AOC wine coming only from grapes that are harvested and vinified on a single estate.
In the United States there is no regulation – an estate can call itself a château even if it is buying in grapes from other growers in different regions.
Yann le Goaster, director of Federation des Grands Vins de Bordeaux, told Decanter.com: ‘Clearly in Bordeaux, we have been using the word château since the mid 19th century. It is part of our heritage, not just a marketing term, and we are determined to fight this.
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‘The European Union should defend the rights of the members of its community.’
He said there was further concern that it could lead to other countries also using the terms château, cru, domaine or hospices on their labels, further confusing consumers.
‘This decision could render these terms meaningless. This is not just about Bordeaux, it concerns wine makers across France’.
In Burgundy, the Confederation des Appellations et des Vignerons de Bourgogne said in a statement, ‘Clos, a word which is truly part of Burgundy’s identity and heritage, is set to be tarnished by the European Commission… Burgundy winemakers strongly condemn this American initiative.’
Château Montelena, one of the most renowned ‘château’ wines in the US said that as export accounts for only 7% of its overall business, it did not have an official position on the subject.
Written by Jane Anson in Bordeaux
Jane Anson was Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent until 2021 and has lived in the region since 2003. She writes a monthly wine column for Hong Kong’s South China Morning Post, and is the author of Bordeaux Legends: The 1855 First Growth Wines (also published in French as Elixirs). In addition, she has contributed to the Michelin guide to the Wine Regions of France and was the Bordeaux and Southwest France author of The Wine Opus and 1000 Great Wines That Won’t Cost a Fortune. An accredited wine teacher at the Bordeaux École du Vin, Anson holds a masters in publishing from University College London, and a tasting diploma from the Bordeaux faculty of oenology.
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