Zephyr, Chardonnay, Marlborough, New Zealand 2018

Full of personality and interest, this new wine for The Wine Society is no paint-by-numbers Chardonnay. Made by Ben Glover from a single vineyard in the Dillon's Point subregion, the nose opens to toasty oak alongside lemon curd and cashew. The 'feral fermentation' (aka wild yeast) and lees stirring in large oak gives great weight and texture, while vanilla nougat and baked oat flavours blend with ripe lemon and flinty tones. Grapefruit and lime zest acidity keeps everything fresh and tight, and an appealing savoury edge lingers on the finish. Classy and great value.