Serbia: Putting the wines of the Balkans, Central and Eastern Europe back on the map

The wine regions of Central and Eastern Europe and the Balkan Peninsula together account for 13.4% of the global wine grape vineyard area – more than Australia, Chile and Argentina put together. The area is no newcomer to the wine scene: its ancient wine roots are supported by evidence that puts the Balkan Peninsula and Central Europe at the heart of the westward journeys of cultivated vines.

Today wineries in these regions are embracing their traditions and incredible local grapes, through finer winemaking and an increased focus on terroir expression and single-vineyard selections.

Key events are continuing to build international awareness: the Wine Vision by Open Balkan fair in Belgrade and The Ultimate Central & Eastern European Wine Fair in London offer opportunities to explore these wines firsthand.

So much to discover in Serbia

Serbia is a great example of this journey of transformation, taking its wines from both international and local varieties to win multiple Gold and Platinum medals at the last few years of the Decanter World Wine Awards.

Read on to discover a few names to seek out. The country’s signature grapes include the medium-bodied elegant red Prokupac and inky dark Probus, while two of its key whites are the promising local crossings Morava and Grašac – whose history is closely linked to Serbia.

For the adventurous traveller, there’s so much to experience, from national parks including Fruška Gora, Deliblato Sands and Djerdap, to dramatic fortresses, Roman ruins and stunning monasteries – all accompanied by generous hospitality.

Forward-thinking producers pushing ahead

In central Serbia, the volcanic hills of Šumadija are home to Aleksandrović, one of the pioneers of the new era of Serbian wines. Its signature white Trijumf is based on a royal recipe from the 1930s, while the winery is also noted for top Bordeaux blends, great sparkling wine and stylish Prokupac.

A little further south, TemeT has a stunning winery that wouldn’t look out of place in Tuscany. Practising organic since 2018, owner Nebojša Aleksić produces excellent versions of Morava and Prokupac, highlighting the impact of different soils.

Near Negotin in eastern Serbia, the Matalj winery has championed single- vineyard wines in one of Serbia’s most iconic reds, Kremen Kamen, and has helped to rescue overlooked varieties such as Bagrina and Začinak.

A spotlight on Fruška Gora

An hour north of Belgrade, Serbia’s Fruška Gora mountain is a real winemaking hotspot. The Vinčić winery works with 50-yearold Grašac vines to produce its award-winning wines, crafting superb versions with oak and from amphora too.

This year has seen new wineries such as La Gora and Dragojlović release premium versions of Grašac, with high-quality expressions of the variety becoming increasingly available.

There’s also a buzzing natural wine scene in Fruška Gora: organic producer Bikicki is at the forefront with its low-intervention, skin-contact wines. Deurić, meanwhile, champions Morava and juicy Probus in both single-varietal expressions and in blends which show real local personality, such as its excellent white blend, Aksiom Beli.

Erdevik, Serbia’s oldest winery, is also situated on this iconic hill. Founded in 1826, vines benefits from double sunshine, both direct and reflected from the Danube river. Erdevik produced Serbia’s first DWWA Platinum in the 2020 competition – the Omnibus Lector Chardonnay 2015.

The boutique Šapat winery boasts stunning views over the Danube, and is renowned for Serbian fine dining at its best in the Michelin-starred Fleur de Sel restaurant. Its wines are beautifully precise, with great expressions of Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and a fabulous new Frankovka.