2007 white Burgundy
A classic vintage with searingly fresh acidity, terroir-driven fruit and good potential to age.
A mild March and extremely sunny April saw bud-burst and flowering get off to a fine start. Then came a cool, damp and dreary summer that threatened mildew and rot, and left winemakers wondering if the grapes would ever ripen. Although Chardonnay was less affected than Pinot Noir, a great deal of effort was needed to keep the vineyards healthy.
Yet prayers were answered with a warm August end and a fresh, breezy, sunny September. Mostly growers delayed picking as long as possible (even up to 10 days after the reds) to ensure the Chardonnay reached full maturity. Bizarrely, Mâcon and Chablis started their harvests last and at the same time.
Drastic crop sorting and hail damage in parts of Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Saint-Aubin reduced the final yield.
The cool summer is reflected in the wonderful purity and minerality of the whites. Growers who dared to pick very late fared best, with greater depth of flavour and more pronounced aromas. Structures are livelier too, and the wines promise greater ageing potential.
The high, fine acidity which is a feature of the vintage suits Chablis very well and growers in this most northerly region were less worried by the dreary summer than elsewhere. Many Chablis are sensational, if more chiselled than normal.
From the Cote d’Or, the wines are highly reflective of terroir, with the high acidity laying bare every facet of their flavour. But from all appellations expect precise, elegant and fruity wines.
Comte Lafon (Meursault), Etienne Sauzet (Montrachet/Puligny-Montrachet), Jean-Marc Boillot (Puligny-Montrachet), Jean-Marc Roulot (Meursault), Leflaive (Bienvenues-Bâtard-/Puligny-Montrachet), Marc Colin (Bâtard-Montrachet), Bonneau du Martray (Corton-Charlemagne), Bruno Colin (Chassagne-Montrachet), Colin-Morey (Puligny-Montrachet), Fabien & Christina Moreau (Chablis), Henri Germain (Meursault), Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin (Chablis), Vincent Dauvissat (Chablis).