Cru Bourgeois

From the first taste of the lowly appellation Bordeaux Rouge at Le Cercle Rive Droite’s presentation at Chateau Laroque on March 28th, to the last sip of Chateau Smith–Haut–Lafitte 1961 – purchased at Christie’s by the the Cathiards – at lunch on April 1st, I don’t think I have had a more interesting en primeur experience. Even on the Right Bank, where the drought conditons had burnt out many parcels of Merlot, producers were raving about the quality of their Cabernet Franc. In the Graves, the white wines were fabulusly ripe, Sauternes had notched up another great vintage and in the Medoc, the further north one went, the better the wines. 2003 was an exceptional vintage in weather terms and will be one of the most interesting vintages for the Bordeaux lover. SS

Chateau d'Angludet, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Margaux 2003

Very deep ruby, concentrated, leafy, blackcurrant nose, masses of very ripe fruit, showing richness and integrated tannins, quite powerful, but with the hallmark finesse of Margaux, almost sweet fruit, lovely balance and length. 2008-20.
 

Chateau Siran, Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, Margaux 2003

Very deep ruby, concentrated, perhaps over-concentrated nose, lots of blackcurrant fruit and very good tannic/acid balance, rather less smooth than many at the moment, but has true depth of Cabernet fruit and potential complexity. 2008-20.
 everywine.co.uk, Fine & Rare Wines, London W10 (020 8960 1995), Thorman Hunt, London SE11 (020 7735 6511), Uncorked, London EC2 (020 7638 5998)

Chateau les Ormes-de-Pez, Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, Saint-Estephe 2003

Very deep ruby, slightly smoky and bacony nose with a touch of florality, ripe Cabernet fruit with good firmness and length. Drink 2009-20.
 

Chateau Phelan-Segur, Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, Saint-Estephe 2003

Very deep ruby, fine, floral, slightly leathery nose, deep and smooth with a lift of violets, very attractive, sophisticated fruit with silky tannins. 2009-20.
 Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Corney & Barrow branches (020 7265 2400), Four Walls Wine, Sussex (01243 535 360), Millesima, mail order (0800 917 0352)

Chateau Poujeaux, Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, Moulis 2003

In 1990, after years of research, Phelps introduced a range of Rhône-style wines. This Châteauneuf-du-Pape style blend has ripe fruit aromas with a touch of pepper. Round palate with well-integrated oak and fruitiness; an attractive and delicious, fruit-driven wine with a long finish. Drink up to 2011. £26.65
£26.65 

Chateau Clement-Pichon, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Haut-Medoc 2003

Very deep ruby, rich, almost sweet, good oak, smooth, fairly forward. Drink 2007-14.
 Fine & Rare Wines, London W10 (020 8960 1995)

Chateau Fourcas-Dupre, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Listrac 2003

Very deep ruby, concentrated fruit with a touch of leather and tobacco, lots of extraction and good ripeness, but not very complex. 2008-18.
 

Chateau de Lamarque, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Haut-Medoc 2003

Very deep ruby, quite powerful fruit, good touch of new oak, good structure over ripe blackcurrant Cabernet, elegant and good length. 2008-16.
 C&B

Chateau Brillette, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Moulis 2003

Very deep ruby, good sappy Moulis fruit, floral nose over the ripe extraction, nice smooth finish. 2007-14.
 

Chateau Fonreaud, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Listrac 2003

Very deep ruby, fragrant black currant nose, attractive fruit with ripeness and balance, quite understated for the vintage and the better for it, attractive, supple, fruity wine. 2007-15.
 Cambridge Wine Merchants (01223 568 989), Fine & Rare Wines, London W10 (020 8960 1995), New London Wine, London SW8 (020 7622 3000)

Chateau Clarke Baron Edmond de Rothschild, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Listrac 2003

Huge colour, really very extracted, meaty, tobacco-y nose, none of the fragrance of other wines, very rich on palate, masses of ripe, concentrated fruit and an attractive suppleness over the very big tannins. 2009-20.
 

Chateau La Tour de By, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Medoc 2003

Deep ruby, quite fragrant blackcurrant nose, pleasant, soft fruit, ripe and supple, good balance. 2006-12.
 

Chateau Citran, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Haut-Medoc 2003

Deep ruby, slightly vegetal nose, still a touch of greenness, good Cabernet fruit, but tannins a little rougher than expected. 2008-15.
 

Chateau Reysson, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Haut-Medoc 2003

Huge colour, very good floral nose and terrific extract of ripe, even a little over-ripe Cabernet fruit, big solid wine. 2008-16.
 The Wine Society, Herts (01438 741 177)

Chateau Cambon La Pelouse, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Haut-Medoc 2003

Huge colour, terrific extract of really lovely blackcurrant leaf, small berry Cabernet fruit, smooth and ripe, very good vinification combining intensity and elgance. 2008-16.
 Avery’s of Bristol (01275 811 100), Bordeaux Index, London EC1 (020 7253 2110), Fine & Rare Wines, London W10 (020 8960 1995), Magnum Fine Wines, London SW1(020 7839 5732), Telegraph Wine Service (0800 856 2140), Uncorked, London EC2 (020 7638 5998), Verm

Chateau Greysac, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Medoc 2003

Deep ruby, pronounced Cabernet nose, slightly vegetal nose, but much better on palate, soft and ripe, smooth blackcurrant fruit and has charm. 2006-10.
 

Chateau le Boscq, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Saint-Estephe 2003

Very deep ruby, big extraction of ripe chocolatey fruit, big, chunky and full of vibrant Cabernet/Merlot fruit, quite impressive. 2008-16.
 Handford Holland Park, London W11 (020 7221 9614), Millesima, mail order (0800 917 0352), The Wine Society, Herts (01438 741 177)

Chateau Marbuzet, Cru Bourgeois, Saint-Estephe 2003

Very deep ruby, lovely spicy nose, smooth and ripe, almost a 'petit Cos' without the tremendous class, but finely balanced extraction and good length. 2008-18.
 everywine.co.uk, Farr Vintners, London SW8 (020 7821 2000), Four Walls Wine, Sussex (01243 535 360), Jake’s Food and Wines, Essex (07771 801 656)

Chateau les Grands Chenes, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Medoc 2003

Very deep ruby, ripe but rather raisiny fruit, sweet and plummy, lots of oak, quite successful in the modern style. 2006-10.
 

Chateau Monbrison, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Margaux 2003

Very deep ruby, very good concentration of lively Cabernet fruit, supple, elegant, floral and fragrant, ripe and good length. Drink 2008-18.
 Tel 0033 5 56 58 80 04

Chateau Haut-Bages-Monpelou, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Pauillac 2003

Deep ruby, quite full, lively fruit, supple and well-made. 2007-12.
 n/a

Chateau Colombier-Monpelou, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Pauillac 2003

Deep ruby, good lively fruit, good expression on the light, fragrant side. 2007-12.
 

Chateau Lanessan, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Haut-Medoc 2003

Very deep ruby, good floral Saint-Julien style fruit, blackcurrant and tobacco leaf, elegant and fine with good length. 2008-18.
 

Chateau Larose-Trintaudon, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Haut-Medoc 2003

Very deep ruby, full and plummy with good, balanced extraction, soft, plummy, attractive wine. 2007-15.
 everywine.co.uk, Fine & Rare Wines, London W10 (020 8960 1995)

Chateau Coufran, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Haut-Medoc 2003

Very deep ruby, big, quite chunky extraction, lots of glycerine and masses of ripe fruit, lovely ripe, tobacco leaf palate, fine silky tannins, very good effort. 2008-18.
 Tel 0033 5 56 59 31 02

Chateau Potensac, Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, Medoc 2003

Deep ruby, very good clear expression of Cabernet fruit, rather severe and shut in, but very good base of fruit and will age well. 2008-18.
 

Chateau Lalande-Borie, Cru Bourgeois, Saint-Julien 2003

Deep ruby, very attractive, supple fruit, quite quick maturing but has class. 2006-12.
 

Chateau Chasse-Spleen, Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, Moulis 2003

Situated in the eastern part of Italy, Abruzzo is famous for its beautiful expressions of the red Montepulciano grape. This wine has vibrant, juicy red cherry fruit on the nose with a lively acidity and soft tannins on the palate. A very pleasant red to drink with or without food. £5.99
£5.99 Avery’s of Bristol (01275 811 100), Bordeaux Wine Investments, Sevenoaks, Kent (01732 779 343), everywine.co.uk, Millesima, mail order (0800 917 0352), Nickolls & Perks, W Mids (01384 394518), Richard Kihl, Aldeburgh (01728 454 455), Robert Rolls & Co, Lo

Chateau Haut-Marbuzet, Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, Saint-Estephe 2003

Very deep ruby, soft seductive fruit, lots of smooth, rich ripeness, but not much complexity yet. 2008-16.
 Avery’s of Bristol (01275 811 100), Boutinot Wines, Cheshire (0161 908 1300), Millesima, mail order (0800 917 0352), Telegraph Wine Service (0800 856 2140)

Chateau Labegorce, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Margaux 2003

Very deep ruby, concentrated Cabernet nose, leafy and blackcurranty, good ripe fruit and very good extraction without heaviness, good fragrance and length. 2008-18.
 

Chateau Malescasse, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Haut-Medoc 2003

Deep ruby, quite rich on the glass, fine tobacco leaf fruit, concentrated yet elegant and attractive Haut-Medoc length. 2008-16.
 everywine.co.uk, Fine & Rare Wines, London W10 (020 8960 1995)

Chateau Tronquoy-Lalande, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Saint-Estephe 2003

Very deep ruby, good floral blackcurrant leaf nose, less rich but more complex than some in this very successful appellation. 2008-15.
 

Chateau Clauzet, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Saint-Estephe 2003

Huge colour, very good fruit, lots of extract and really modern, seductive style, big chocolatey fruit and soft tannins. 2007-15.
 The Wine Society, Herts (01438 741 177)

Chateau Beau-Site, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Saint-Estephe 2003

Very deep ruby, fine violetty fragrant fruit, lots of flavour, quite robust extraction, good smooth finish. 2008-16.
 Avery’s of Bristol (01275 811 100), Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Telegraph Wine Service (0800 856 2140)

Chateau Maucaillou, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Moulis 2003

Ben Glaetzer's wines, particularly at the top end, are well on their way to cult status. This Shiraz-Grenache blend is a more modest offering, yet still showcases the talent seemingly inherent in the Glaetzer clan. Sweet red fruit with a peppery twist is in abundance, and is softened and plumped up by toffee-tinted oak. Drink up to 2013. £11.95
£11.95 

Chateau Beaumont, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Haut-Medoc 2003

Quite goood ruby, a bit diffuse, pretty Cabernet style, nice light blackcurrant fruit, soft and forward. 2006-10.
 

Chateau Fourcas-Hosten, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Listrac 2003

Deep ruby, very herbaceous Cabernet nose, oddly showing a touch of greenness, better on palate, but quite simple and chunky and dryish tannins that should soften out. 2008-15.