Ruinart, Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs 2006
The Blanc de Blancs from the warm 2006 vintage, a year patronisingly rated by some as a ripe pleasure-giver, has a surprise in store. It has grip and backbone for a longer life than anyone thought it would.
2006 displayed extremes of a continental growing season: a very cold winter followed by a hot summer, complicated by a cool August and sunny September, then rain calling for fast picking. No surprise then that the hardier Chardonnay was the unsung saviour for non-oxidative winemaking.
From 100% grand cru Chardonnay. Flowing bubbles and gorgeous aromas, inherently rich but with aristocratic poise akin to a fine Puligny Montrachet. Magically opulent yet with a firm grip and core, a vegetative structure in the best sense. Long, youthful finale. Disgorged January 2016.
Taster: Michael Edwards