Burdundy 2022 en primeur top wines score table

After tasting more than 1,300 Burgundy 2022 en primeur samples, Charles Curtis MW has given his full verdict on the new vintage.

Here we present a quick and easy way to see tasting notes and scores for the top-scoring 187 red and white wines wines that scored 96 points and above.

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Producer	Appellation	Score	Notes	Header Cell - Column 4
Domaine Armand Rousseau	Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru	2022	100	Row 0 - Cell 4	TOP PRODUCER Tasting the 2022 Chambertin Clos de Bèze, one cannot doubt its perfection. The super-ripe aromas of mulberry and pomegranate roll from the glass, accented with hints of smoke, spice and earth, pervaded by a saline mineral quality. Cyrielle Rousseau describes the wine as having 'more of everything, [while] the Chambertin is more focused'. There is exceptional density and immense length – this extraordinary wine is among the greatest I have tasted from this estate.
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti	Romanée-Conti Grand Cru Monopole	2022	100	Row 1 - Cell 4	RED WINE OF THE VINTAGE TOP PRODUCER Some vintages of Romanée-Conti when tasted from barrel give but a hint of future greatness. This is not the case with the 2022, which is immediately impressive. All its grandeur is revealed, from the ripe, plummy fruit with hints of liquorice, cedar, rose petals and earth, to the dense and firmly tannic texture that balances massive weight and supreme elegance. A powerful wine that I immediately qualified as ‘perfect’, and it would not surprise me if this were still compellingly beautiful a century from now.
Domaine Armand Rousseau	Chambertin Grand Cru	2022	99	Row 2 - Cell 4	The 2022 Chambertin is a monumental wine with supremely ripe black cherry, plum, and cassis fruit loaded with spice and floral notes. There is an immense depth of flavour and a superbly dense and compact texture. As the wine sits in the glass, it seems almost infinitely complex. This tightly wound wine is not as generous as the Clos de Bèze. The truth is that the Bèze is perhaps more immediately engaging, while the Chambertin has more substance and ultimate potential. However, both wines will probably outlive anyone tasting them today since they seem set to age for a century.
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti	La Tâche Grand Cru Monopole	2022	99	Row 3 - Cell 4	The first taste of this monumental vintage of La Tâche boasts a staggering amount of velvety blackberry and plum fruit (from a François Frères barrel). In contrast, a sample from another barrel had a distinctly brighter cherry fruit. The wine will be blended before bottling, although two small parts of the vineyard planted in the Seventies will be added more slowly. Both wines were dense and compact, with firm yet fine-grained tannins and interminable length. The wine is slightly less effusive than the Romanée-Conti out of barrel, but both undeniably have the substance to age nearly forever.
Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair	La Romanée Grand Cru	2022	99	Row 4 - Cell 4	An exhilarating wine at the highest level, on par with the riveting 2019. There are profuse aromas of red and black fruit, exotic Asian spices, a hint of smoke and a touch of sweet oak spice. Despite its effortlessly silky texture, one appreciates the density and substance with time. It's hard to ask for more wine than this offers. Given the lush texture, it should drink well young but will also age effortlessly for decades. Biodynamic.
Domaine des Comtes Lafon	Montrachet Grand Cru	2022	99	Row 5 - Cell 4	This wine is among the greatest whites in Burgundy in 2022 (as is often the case), with a profusion of ripe tropical fruit, nectarine and peach aromas, accents of butter, soft white blossoms and spice. The texture is rich with extract and dense, yet there is lively acidity to balance the aromas and flavours perfectly through to a dynamic finish. Fortunately, the yield of this 0.33ha plot was 6.5 barrels in 2022, although Lafon will wait several years to bring it to market. Organic.
Millemann Wines	Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru	2022	99	Row 6 - Cell 4	The Millemann family has taken every step to retain maximum freshness even in the torrid 2022 vintage, and has already racked wine into stainless steel to help preserve its vigour. Superb concentration of tropical and orchard fruit aromas are gently trimmed with hints of spice, fresh acacia flowers and beeswax. A marvellous tension and intensity draw the wine to a neverending finish. After pressing and settling, the must is run into a new puncheon for fermentation and ageing without sulphur (until bottling). A reference for the appellation.
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey	Montrachet Grand Cru	2022	99	Row 7 - Cell 4	WHITE WINE OF THE VINTAGE, TOP PRODUCER Pierre-Yves Colin has good reason to be delighted with the arrival to the portfolio of a tiny sliver of Montrachet from his family's holdings. The wine is superb, with aromas of ripe nectarine, Williams pear and peach, suggestions of hawthorn flowers, spice and cream. The texture is rich without being heavy, and the freshness brings exquisite balance. The grapes come from 267 vines (0.0267ha) on the Chassagne side under Dent de Chien, planted at the highest part of Montrachet to give a rewardingly mineral result. Look in six or seven years for release of the 220 bottles produced.
Domaine Arlaud	Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru	2022	98	Row 8 - Cell 4	According to Cyprien Arlaud, he '…tries to make as a grand cru of Chambolle, but not necessarily,' meaning it is still substantial and dense. The aromas range from black plum to pomegranate, with hints of earth and savoury game notes. No new wood is used in the ageing, giving a wine of great purity of fruit. The parcel is just 0.20 hectares, but it stretches from the bottom to the top, just south of Drouhin-Laroze in the centre of the vineyard. Because of this, it has a mix of terres rouges and terres blanches to give complexity.
Domaine Bruno Clair	Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru	2022	98	Row 9 - Cell 4	This wine is superb, with mulberry and cassis fruit and abundant complexity from smoke, earth, spice, and mint notes. The aromas are forward, and the texture is supple and approachable, but there is substance and depth here that will continue to develop and evolve for decades. The texture is immense but lively, with freshness and a superb savoury saline undertone. The domaine owns nearly a hectare in the Clos de Bèze, with the majority of the vines more than a century old. This wine is one of the truly profound wines of Burgundy.
Domaine Cécile Tremblay	Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru	2022	98	Row 10 - Cell 4	This superb offering has everything one can hope for from this appellation, yet it is a model of understated elegance. Initially with floral and spicy fruit intensity, the texture is silky and approachable, yet substantial extract and firm tannins make themselves felt on the long finish. Grapes are from the domaine’s 0.36ha plot in Les Gémeaux at the base of the Clos de Bèze slope. Despite its approachable nature, this has the substance to age for decades. Biodynamic.
Domaine Chandon de Briailles	Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru	2022	98	Row 11 - Cell 4	Subtle and understated aromas of ripe black cherry and peony with hints of smoke, spice and a savoury touch at the end. Delicate texture but still structured and long. The grapes come from 0.35ha of old vines at the top of the slope. This wine should open more fully in five years and will drink well for at least another 50 after that. Biodynamic.
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé, Cuvée Vieilles Vignes	Musigny Grand Cru	2022	98	Row 12 - Cell 4	A tasting of each of the seven 2022 Musigny VV sub-sections and an approximate blend hint at a wine of almost voluptuous sensuality, with expressive mulberry and pomegranate fruit and hints of earth, smoke and liquorice that waft from the glass. The texture is powerfully tannic and dense but almost infinitely silky, and there is a dynamic interplay between the perfumed fruit and robust structure. Ideally, wait a decade before opening.
Domaine d’Eugénie	Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru	2022	98	Row 13 - Cell 4	The Clos Vougeot from Eugenie is a bright spot in an impressive range, with ripe black cherry fruit aromas scented with violets and sweet spice. The texture is approachable yet firmly structured and long; the whole is enormously seductive. The grapes come from the mature vines in the domaine's superb 1.37-hectare parcel near the Château in Les Marets Hauts; 80% vinified as whole clusters, ageing in cask, 19 of 26 of which are new (73%). Wait three to five years and enjoy over the next three decades.
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti	Richebourg Grand Cru	2022	98	Row 14 - Cell 4	Picked between 4-6 September, the 2022 Richebourg from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti is muscular and deep in colour. Four years ago, 0.80 hectares were pulled out in Verroilles and replanted, removing it from the final assemblage to deliver more finesse and elegance. The fruit aromas are incredibly exotic as they open, and the texture of the tannins is fine-grained yet robust tannins, making this an energetic wine. Although the loss of so much fruit is a loss, the effect of the replanting has been to elevate the Richebourg to matchless heights.
Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair	Vosne-Romanée (1er Cru Reignots)	2022	98	Row 15 - Cell 4	The 2022 Reignots is superb, full of red and black berry fruit aromas with smoke, earth, leather, and cigar box notes. The texture is dense, almost chiselled, and powerful, with abundant tannic grip, yet nothing is astringent or challenging here. The grapes come from Liger-Belair's 0.7-hectare plot, along with a contract with the three areas from Romanée-Conti, all farmed biodynamically. The wine is singingly lovely and should be ready sooner than many vintages have been. This wine is an unqualified success, even with a vineyard of this pedigree.
Domaine Dugat-Py	Chambertin Grand Cru	2022	98	Row 16 - Cell 4	The forward, ripe plum and cassis fruit of this world-class Chambertin is immediately arresting for its expressive nature and spicy, minty complexity. The texture of the wine is lush and dense, but it is packed with firm tannins that carry the wine to an exceptionally long finish. The grapes come from the 0.05-hectare plot of old vines near the top of the slope, where the work is done by horse and the vines are not hedged but the shoot tips are woven together—painstaking effort, but eminently worthy wine. If you can find a bottle, by all means, drink it.
Domaine Duroché	Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru	2022	98	Row 17 - Cell 4	A seductive wine, pointedly fresh and tannic with super-concentrated and focused black cherry and mulberry fruit, and abundant aromas of liquorice and ginger. The fruit is the tiny production of very old vines (the oldest back to 1922) at the base of the En Griotte climat. Fermented entirely as whole clusters and aged in a single, older barrel to ensure its purity of fruit. Marvellous density and richness – a masterpiece.
Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg	Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru	2022	98	Row 18 - Cell 4	Tasting the 2022s from this cellar, the Clos Vougeot was the most expressive wine of all, with spicy mulberry and black plum fruit aromas and silky texture, while the abundant extract and freshness help carry the wine to a gratifying finish. The fruit – from a 0.3ha plot replanted 70 years ago – is destemmed and fermented on native yeasts before ageing in 70% new cask. This should be approachable early, but refrain from drinking for at least five years for best results.
Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat	Richebourg Grand Cru	2022	98	Row 19 - Cell 4	Immediately impressive with a beguiling combination of fruit expression, silkiness and length. The nose boasts raspberry, bramble and kirsch with notes of violets, earth and smoke. The texture is deceptively silky, and with time the firm tannins and rich extract make themselves felt and lead into a lingering finish. The grapes come from 0.3ha in Les Richebourgs, next to DRC – they are mostly destemmed and gently fermented on native yeasts before ageing in cask. Enormous ageing potential.
Domaine Jean Grivot	Richebourg Grand Cru	2022	98	Row 20 - Cell 4	The Grivot Richebourg is a superb wine—it is always the top wine in the cellar and carries the concentration and depth to another level. The wine opens with copious red and black fruit aromas coloured with a saline minerality and notes of earth, leather, and savoury game. The texture is focused and rich, with a velvety, dense feel and a gratifyingly long finish. The domaine farms 0.31 hectares up the slope from Hudelot-Noëllat, located in the centre of Richebourg proper. Ideally, one would wait ten years to open, but this should last 50 or more.
Domaine Joseph Drouhin	Musigny Grand Cru	2022	98	Row 21 - Cell 4	This incomparable wine has great complexity and layers of flavours, with elegant cherry and blackberry fruit aromas, cedar, spice and spectacular depth. Despite the heat of the year, a marvellous freshness here brings energy to the wine and works well with the grippy tannins. The grapes come from two domaine-owned parcels that total 0.68 hectares. Both are located in Grand Musigny near the northern end of the appellation. The grapes are partially destemmed and gently fermented to produce this quintessential Musigny that will be accessible reasonably soon for a wine of this quality yet will age effortlessly for decades.
Domaine Robert Groffier	Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru	2022	98	Row 22 - Cell 4	The 2022 Clos de Bèze from Groffier is a thrilling wine with a fig and blackberry fruit aroma and gunflint, wood smoke, leather, earth, and menthol nuances. The texture is dense and concentrated, with abundant but very velvety tannins that leave no impression of astringency. The grapes come from 0.45 hectares of old vines running the length of the vineyard just south of the vines of Drouhin-Laroze. They are entirely fermented as whole clusters and aged in new casks.
Domaine Trapet	Chambertin Grand Cru	2022	98	Row 23 - Cell 4	The 2022 Trapet Chambertin impresses with its luminous blackberry and fig fruit aromas shaded with hints of earth and spice. It is a wine of superb density and incredible length with a marvellous velvety texture; massive tannins can give a slightly rustic feel to the wine, but with time, these will resolve to create a wine that will last for decades to come. The grapes are from the domaine's 1.85 hectares of ideally-placed vineyards that are now trained on stakes and grown without hedging to yield this magnificent wine.
Hubert Lignier, Hommage	Clos de la Roche Grand Cru	2022	98	Row 24 - Cell 4	This wine is the star of the Lignier cellar and among the best in Morey, with its currant and mulberry fruit and hints of savoury, gamey depth. The wine is more muscular, structured, and dense than the 'classique' Clos de la Roche, yet there is enough elegance to ensure that this wine is in a class of its own. The grapes come from 27 ares planted in Monts Luisants by Lignier's grandparents in 1955. One-third of the grapes were gently fermented as whole clusters over 18 days, and the wine is ageing now in a cask (one-third new).
Maison Millemann	Chambertin Grand Cru	2022	98	Row 25 - Cell 4	The concentrated and complex aromas of mulberry fruit with a hint of reduction seem almost gamey, accented by smoke and leather hints. The texture is dense and tannic, yet not heavy. This wine has abundant depth but no heaviness and is surprisingly approachable for a wine of this concentration. The grapes are from a parcel of ancient vines, largely fermented as whole clusters that are gently pumped over at the beginning and foot trod at the end; the wine is now ageing in a new cask.
Bouchard Père & Fils	Montrachet Grand Cru	2022	98	Row 26 - Cell 4	The 2022 Bouchard Montrachet is slightly reserved but has an immense presence on the palate, with a ripe apple and quince fruit, hints of white flowers, chalk, and exotic tangerine peel. The wine has enormous extract but all of the freshness necessary for balance as well – this is a superb expression of finesse and power at the same time. The grapes are from the domaine's 0.89 hectares on the Puligny side; they are lightly crushed and gently pressed, and only the finest must is fermented in cask before ageing over two winters in cask (15% new). This wine is a towering achievement.
Domaine Michel Niellon	Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru	2022	98	Row 27 - Cell 4	A wine of intense concentration, tension and focus, even in the warm conditions of 2022. Aroma notes of ripe apple, peach and quince, then the volume and density you'd expect from 2022, but it's well balanced by the fresh acidity that draws it to a lingering finish. Grapes from Niellon’s plot of old vines are fermented on native yeasts in 40% new cask. This wine is among the best from this vintage and will make old bones if you are so inclined.
Lamy-Caillat	Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru La Grande Montagne)	2022	98	Row 28 - Cell 4	Unlike last year, the 2022 Grande Montagne is from a single lieu-dit within the climat, Tonton Marcel, where they farm 0.14 hectares (last year, this was blended with la Romanée). The wine is almost infinitely complex, with fruit that ranges from lime peel to green apple and ripe pear. The texture is energetic and dynamic, but there is no shortage of richness; this breadth balances out the nervy acidity and draws the wine to a superb finish. Although this may begin to open in five years, wine lovers would be well-served to age it even longer for best results.
Clos de Tart	Clos de Tart Grand Cru Monopole	2022	97	Row 29 - Cell 4	The 2022 Clos de Tart is a surprisingly deep colour endowed with pronounced cassis and pomegranate aromas, rose petals, liquorice, and a savoury game note. The texture is silky and fresh but not lacking in body—it is an exquisite balance, made more delightful by the charming sweetness of the fruit on the palate. The best grapes of the Clos were carefully fermented, with just over half of them fermented as whole clusters. The wine is ageing now in cask (60% new), where it will stay for at least 20 months.
Domaine AF Gros	Richebourg Grand Cru	2022	97	Row 30 - Cell 4	This outstanding Richebourg should not be overlooked. There is impressive complexity to the ripe blackberry and plum fruit component, with savoury game notes and a noticeably saline minerality that underpins it. The texture is silky and very fine, yet there is also rewarding length here. The grapes are from the domaine holdings in the Gros family stronghold of Les Verroilles. The domaine lost 0.10 hectares in the recent reshuffle, but they still farm a half-hectare here. The grapes are partially destemmed and gently fermented on native yeasts before ageing in cask to produce this superb rendition of Richebourg.
Domaine Arlaud	Clos St-Denis Grand Cru	2022	97	Row 31 - Cell 4	The Clos-Saint-Denis from Domaine Arlaud hails from 0.17 hectares in the historic centre of Clos-Saint-Denis, the lieu-dit of the same name. The nose is a bit less open than the Clos de la Roche; Cyprien qualifies it as 'a bit more austere, almost more spiritual', but it opens up on the palate with rewardingly ripe plummy fruit character and hints of earth, smoke, and spice. The texture is tannic and beautifully deep, with a firm, substantial structure and length. Despite its slightly reserved nature, this has the stuffing to last for decades.
Domaine Armand Rousseau	Gevrey-Chambertin (1er Cru Clos-St-Jacques)	2022	97	Row 32 - Cell 4	The Clos-Saint-Jacques always marks the start of the three thrilling top wines. Out of barrel a year after vintage, the wine is still a bit characterised by the wood (70% new); however, lovely, rich, ripe blackberry and pomegranate fruits shine through with abundant mineral complexity. The texture is firm and tannic but not unapproachable. This wine is among the greatest produced in the village; ideally, one would wait ten years from the vintage before opening, and it will drink for at least fifty years after that.
Domaine Armand Rousseau	Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru	2022	97	Row 33 - Cell 4	The Mazy trumpets its grand cru status with dark plum and fig fruit and a more obvious density, structure, and length than one sees in the wines up to this point. Cyrielle says it is 'a bit of a big bear; very impressive then soft. The grapes come from the domaine's half-hectare of vines in Mazis-Bas, which were destemmed and fermented on native yeasts prior to ageing in cask. Although this is an intermediate step before the epic Clos-Saint-Jacques, it is not a wine to overlook—delicious in its own right.
Domaine Cécile Tremblay, Échézeaux du Dessus	Échezéaux Grand Cru	2022	97	Row 34 - Cell 4	This seductive wine appeals along the same lines as the Beaumonts, yet there is more of everything – more lush, dark blackberry and plum fruit, more liquorice spice on the attack, and more density and tannic grip on the palate. The texture is velvety and dense, yet there is also great finesse and a concentrated, focused finish. The grapes come from two biodynamically farmed parcels in Echézeaux du Dessus. This wine should open relatively young and drink well for two decades or more. This is a magnificent wine in a great vintage.
Domaine Cécile Tremblay	Vosne-Romanée (1er Cru Les Beaumonts)	2022	97	Row 35 - Cell 4	This exemplary Vosne Beaux Monts is a paragon of freshness and energy with a lovely depth of rose-petal-scented black cherry flavours touched with notes of smoke and leather. There is an uncommon purity of fruit; this has more precision and intensity to the structure. Tremblay is now working two parcels of Beaux Monts; this wine comes from the one she has worked for a while, in Les Hauts Beaux Monts, which she may or may not assemble with the other one, recently recouped from metayage to Michel Noëllat (tasted separately).
Domaine Chandon de Briailles	Corton Les Bressandes Grand Cru	2022	97	Row 36 - Cell 4	This slightly rugged version of Corton charms the drinker with its dense, plummy fruit and notes of earth, smoke, and cigar leaf. The texture is admirably compact and long, yet there is no astringency here. It is a powerful, classic Corton that will age for decades. The domaine farms four parcels that total 1.5 hectares; two are closer to the village of Aloxe, and two are closer to Ladoix. The latter are on Comblanchien limestone and deliver a Côte de Nuits style wine. The grapes were primarily fermented as whole clusters and are ageing now in cask (20% new).
Domaine d’Eugénie	Grands-Échézeaux Grand Cru	2022	97	Row 37 - Cell 4	The 2022 Grands Echézeaux from the Domaine d'Eugenie is an exquisite wine with a beautifully sensual ripe black cherry fruit aroma, floral cast, and abundant nuance and depth. The texture is velvety and inviting, with an approachable sweetness to the fruit on the palate yet reserves of power that suggest that this will continue to improve for decades. The grapes are from the cool section of the vineyard between the Clos de Vougeot and Echézeaux; most are fermented as whole clusters, and the wine is ageing now in cask, five of seven of which are new.
Domaine de Courcel	Pommard (1er Cru Grand Clos des Épenots)	2022	97	Row 38 - Cell 4	The 2022 Epenots from Courcel is a powerful yet very expressive wine. The colour is deep, the abundant fruit aromas are open and aromatic, and the wine is endowed with massive extract and tannin. On the day, I wrote 'everything ++'. The enchanting plum and currant aromas have great complexity, with hints of earth, leather, spice, and blood. The feel of the wine today is massive. It might well close down, but with five to seven years in the bottle, this should be an extraordinary wine that will live for decades.
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti	Grands-Échézeaux Grand Cru	2022	97	Row 39 - Cell 4	The DRC Grands Echézeaux was picked much earlier than the Echézeaux (between 2-4 September); perhaps this is why it seems less forward. The colour, however, is intense, and although the wine is less expressive, it is more substantial, with a more tannic grip and better length. The texture on the palate is dense and concentrated, and the flavour of dark chocolate develops with time. This wine should open well in five to seven years and has the substance to last at least another 30 beyond that.
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti	Romanée-St-Vivant Grand Cru	2022	97	Row 40 - Cell 4	The wine is a St-Vivant,' according to Bertrand de Villaine, who finds the nose a touch herbal. To me, this manifests as notes of flowers and spice gracing the fruit aromas, which are more red fruit than black. It seems oddly a bit lighter than the Grands Echézeaux this year, at least at this stage of its evolution. The structure is silky and less dense than its stablemates, suggesting an earlier evolution. De Villaine notes that there have been some issues with the rootstock in this vineyard, but the selection they have made here is undoubtedly successful.
Domaine Denis Mortet	Chambertin Grand Cru	2022	97	Row 41 - Cell 4	With its focused, concentrated aromas of black cherry and plum fruit and savoury accents of game, leather, and mineral, this is an expressive, complex wine; there is still a hint of reduction that will resolve with time. The texture of the wine is concentrated and deep, with firm but supple tannins, crisp acidity, and the extract to ensure an interminable finish. This wine should begin opening in five years and will drink well for at least twenty years afterwards.
Domaine des Lambrays	Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru	2022	97	Row 42 - Cell 4	Collectors searching for the top wines of the Côte de Nuits will want to secure an allocation of this as soon as it is offered. The assemblage of all of the portions of the Clos is superb, with a seductive black cherry and mulberry fruit that is at once fresh and round, with complexity coming from mineral and earth notes and a bit of polished oak spice. The texture is dense and complete yet marvellously vibrant with impressive length. The selection is ever more severe, with even more grapes declassified into Les Loups, delivering a compelling wine that will live for decades.
Domaine des Lambrays	Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru	2022	97	Row 43 - Cell 4	The blend of the entire Clos is superb in 2022, with a seductive black cherry and mulberry fruit that is at once fresh and round, with complexity coming from mineral and earth notes and a bit of polished oak spice. The texture is dense and complete yet marvellously vibrant with impressive length. The selection is ever more severe, with a portion of the grapes declassified into Les Loups (Morey-St-Denis 1er Cru). A compelling wine that will live for decades. Organic.
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Clos Pascal	Givry (1er Cru Clos du Cellier Aux Moines)	2022	97	Row 44 - Cell 4	This superb wine must be tasted to be believed. It boasts a lush, ripe aroma of blackberry, mulberry and bramble, accented with notes of earth, spice, and smoke. The texture is notable for a formidable tannic charge, yet there is enough fruit and sweet extract to support the massive structure. The grapes are from a medieval clos that was a meadow when Pascal purchased the property and thus was not included in the AOC limits, hence its village status today. The vines are planted at more than 13,000 vines/ha on stakes (échalas) and organically farmed. Spectacular wine.
Domaine Dugat-Py	Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru	2022	97	Row 45 - Cell 4	The Mazoyères from Dugat-Py is delightful, if somewhat puzzling. In many previous vintages, I have qualified it as 'massive' or 'imposing', and I found it more tannic and slightly more rustic than the Charmes, where he also has vines. In the 2022 vintage, I found rather the opposite: silky and ripe, with a fragrant blackberry and pomegranate fruit scented with liquorice and rose petals. The texture was impressively dense, but the wine was approachable even at this age and gave the impression it should open up reasonably young. There is still plenty of tannic grip, but this element doesn't dominate.
Domaine Dujac	Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru	2022	97	Row 46 - Cell 4	Deeply-coloured and richly fruity, this was tasted last in the lineup, and it is easy to see why. The wine boasts a spectacularly forward fruit, supple, silky texture, and enough density to age for decades. There is enough acidity to balance and enough tannin to sustain the wine over the long haul. Still, there is another dimension of complexity and depth here that is seductive indeed. The grapes come from just over a half-hectare in two blocks, the larger one in the centre of the climate and the smaller one in the south.
Domaine Duroché, Vieilles Vignes	Gevrey-Chambertin (1er Cru Lavaut Saint-Jacques)	2022	97	Row 47 - Cell 4	Darker than the 'classic' cuvée, with a pronounced blackberry fruit coloured with liquorice, violets and earth, this old vine cuvée (made with grapes from 100-year-old vines) is a magic wine with significantly more concentration, robust tannins, and a freshness that balances the extract and leads to an incredibly long finish. By any measure, it is a beautiful wine. Sensible collectors will give it three to five years before opening to maximise its aromatic potential.
Domaine Duroché, Cuvée Mariette	Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru	2022	97	Row 48 - Cell 4	The Latricières from Duroché has more density and power than many of the Gevrey offerings; it is decidedly more tannic than the Griotte. The 'silky, lovely' side is still here, but this is powerful and long with abundant black plum and mulberry fruit aromas coloured with spice, peony and liquorice notes. It is impressive for its length and balance – it is plump with fruit yet balanced by structure and freshness. The grapes come from a quarter-hectare parcel that the domaine purchased in 1989; it was the favourite cuvée of the family matriarch, for whom it is named.
Domaine Faiveley	Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru	2022	97	Row 49 - Cell 4	The 'classic' Clos de Bèze from Faiveley is blended from three parcels that total one hectare, all located in the centre of the climat. 'Serious but not severe' I wrote in my notes. The wine has admirable complexity and depth of flavour, with focused blackberry and mulberry fruit, notes of violets and peonies, ginger, star anise, and liquorice spice. There is all the lovely intensity and length of a top wine and enough freshness to keep it lively.
Domaine Fourrier	Gevrey-Chambertin (1er Cru Clos-St-Jacques)	2022	97	Row 50 - Cell 4	The somewhat modest colour of the Clos Saint-Jacques belies the aromatic intensity of this wine with its beguiling black cherry fruit aromas touched with smoke, leather, earth, and spice. The texture is firmly tannic and full-bodied, with intense concentration and length – 'this has everything' in my notes. The domaine's 0.89-hectare parcel sits next to Rousseau; it was originally planted in 1910. The grapes are destemmed, but the best and ripest stems are added back to the vats. Ideally, one would wait at least five years before enjoying this wine and then drink it over the next thirty years.
Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg	Échezéaux Grand Cru	2022	97	Row 51 - Cell 4	This medium-deep garnet wine boasts a bright, elegant pomegranate and red plum fruit aroma with an edge of earth and spice. The texture is approachably silky and very fine, but there is enough substance to ensure a long life in the cellar. The grapes are from the lieux-dits Rouges de Bas and Quartiers de Nuits. The total owned by the domaine is one hectare, but they have let half of the Quartiers de Nuits to their cousin Pascal Mugneret. The sisters have destemmed the grapes and fermented them gently, and the wine is now ageing in cask (60% new).
Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg	Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru	2022	97	Row 52 - Cell 4	The Mugneret-Gibourg Ruchottes is an extraordinary wine with a laser-like focus to the bright blackberry fruit with notes of violets, earth and smoke. The texture is compact and chiselled but very dense, with firm tannins and an impressively persistent saline minerality on the palate. The grapes are from the domaine's 0.70-hectare parcel in Ruchottes du Bas; they are destemmed and gently fermented before ageing in cask (70% new). Give this five years before opening; the ultimate ageing potential is likely forty to fifty years.
Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat	Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru	2022	97	Row 53 - Cell 4	This wine is superbly silky and seamless, long but not heavy, and distinguished by a marvellously forward blackberry and pomegranate fruit aroma touched with earth and spice. This immense Clos de Vougeot shows power without astringency. The grapes are from the domaine's 0.70 hectares near the château in the spots known as Chioures and La Garenne. The carefully sorted grapes are mostly destemmed and fermented on native yeasts; the wines are currently ageing in cask (half new) and will be bottled after two winters without fining or filtration.
Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat	Romanée-St-Vivant Grand Cru	2022	97	Row 54 - Cell 4	Lavish aromas of blackberry and plum fruit with an edge of earthy complexity make the initial attack compelling. The texture is firm and elegant, with grippy tannins but no astringency and enough extract and freshness to ensure an interminable finish. The grapes are from a half-hectare of century-old vines that run the length of the vineyard just north of the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti vines. They are partially destemmed and gently fermented before ageing in cask (half new). Ideally, one would wait a decade before opening this wine, but there is enough substance here to age 50 years beyond that.
Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat	Vosne-Romanée (1er Cru Les Suchots)	2022	97	Row 55 - Cell 4	This exquisite wine has intense red and black fruit aromas with a floral edge and an almost salty savoury intensity. The texture is silky but tightly wound. It is commonly thought that the upper part of Suchots is superior, but this version gives that idea the lie. Here, the 100-year-old vines in the domaine's 0.45-hectare parcel make the wine special, along with Van Caneyt's very able winemaking. This wine should open well in three to five years and will undoubtedly last another 40 (at least) beyond that.
Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier	Chambolle-Musigny (1er Cru Les Amoureuses)	2022	97	Row 56 - Cell 4	Forward, supple, and dense, the 2022 vintage is the very archetype of Chambolle Amoureuses, featuring a supple, plummy fruit of great purity with marvellous hints of star anise and pepper spice and an undercurrent of dark chocolate. The texture is supple and lush, yet there is no lack of structure. We are squarely back in a 'sunny' vintage, but Frédéric Mugnier says there is 'an element of optimism' surrounding global warming. To judge from his work here, he must be correct, for this wine is thrillingly delicious.
Domaine Jean Grivot	Échezéaux Grand Cru	2022	97	Row 57 - Cell 4	With its ripe, deep, plummy fruit, floral notes and abundant spice accents, the 2022 Echézeaux from Grivot is among the top wines in this cellar. The texture is rich and velvety; the finish stretches on for minutes. The grapes are from a 0.84-hectare parcel in Cruots planted in 1954. Grivot destems the grapes and ferments gently, with more pumping exclusively after the beginning of fermentation. This vintage will begin to open in five to seven years and should drink well for at least another 30.
Domaine Méo-Camuzet	Richebourg Grand Cru	2022	97	Row 58 - Cell 4	The 2022 Richebourg from Méo is superb. The wine boasts a supple, open blackberry and currant fruit with hints of ginger, smoke, and pepper. There is perfume and great finesse, but the wine does not lack density or length. The grapes come from four plots – one in Richebourg proper and three different dates of plantation in Verroilles, the oldest one from the '50s, all planted against the slope. The vines yield tiny berries, which Méo destems completely before fermentation – pumping over at the beginning and punching down at the end to deliver a consistently delicious result.
Domaine Michel Lafarge	Volnay (1er Cru Clos du Château des Ducs)	2022	97	Row 59 - Cell 4	This 'super-cuvée' of the Lafarge cellar comes from vines behind the winery, with which they take extraordinary pains. The grapes are all destemmed by hand. The result is a wine of superb concentration and depth, with intensely perfumed black cherry fruit aromas and earth, star anise, violets and black tea notes. The texture on the palate is lively and vibrant, with abundant extract, supple but supportive tannins, and exceptional length. The 2022 vintage is on par with the best I have tasted from this site.
Domaine Michel Mallard	Corton Les Renardes Grand Cru	2022	97	Row 60 - Cell 4	In 2022, the Corton Renardes is the most complex and complete of the trio of Cortons in this cellar. The ripe plum and cassis fruit is accented with savoury game notes and a firm, saline minerality. The wine initially seems supple and elegant (it is), but impressive tannic grip and power become apparent with a bit of time in the glass. This wine has marvellous depth and range. Although it seems a bit reserved, Mallard believes it will open in five to seven years — and he opened a bottle of 2016 to demonstrate, proving his point. This is a 'don't miss' kind of wine.
Domaine Robert Groffier, La Délicatesse des Sables	Chambolle-Musigny (1er Cru Les Amoureuses)	2022	97	Row 61 - Cell 4	Nicolas Groffier has done a superb job with his Amoureuses; he will separate the upper and lower parts in 2022. Just under Musigny, he explains, there is a lot of sand, which helps the vines ripen to a greater degree. This cuvée has a black plum and cassis fruit character with notes of earth and smoke. The texture is fuller and more powerful, with great ripeness and depth. One should wait seven to ten years to open this monumental wine and drink over the next thirty.
Domaine Rossignol-Trapet	Chambertin Grand Cru	2022	97	Row 62 - Cell 4	The 2022 Rossignol-Trapet Chambertin is a magnificent wine. It is initially a bit closed, yet abundant red and black fruit flavours emerge on the palate. The character is fresh and lively, with complex notes of earth, leather, and savoury game developing slowly. The texture is firmly tannic and dense, but the acidity brings the wine into a marvellous dynamic balance between power and elegance. The wine is less exuberant than the 2020 but more tightly wound. The slightly tight nature of this wine will repay a wait of five years before opening, but it should drink well for several decades after that.
Domaine Rossignol-Trapet	Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru	2022	97	Row 63 - Cell 4	This impressive wine is densely packed with substance but slightly closed initially, but flavours of cassis and mulberry with hints of earth and smoke open up on the palate. The silky texture bodes well for the hedonistic heft on the palate. The grapes come from three-quarters of a hectare in a parcel that runs the length of the climat between Trapet Père et Fils and Faiveley. The grapes are mainly fermented as whole clusters and gently extracted before ageing in casks with a moderate proportion of new wood.
Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair	Nuits-St-Georges (1er Cru Les St-Georges)	2022	97	Row 64 - Cell 4	This opulent wine displays concentrated mulberry and black fig fruit aromas with hints of earth, leather and exotic black tea. The texture is dense and firm, with substantial extract balanced by fresh acidity, leading this powerful wine to a lasting finish. The wine is not strictly closed—in five to seven years, one can begin to open it, yet one has the sense that there are reserves that will make this a perfect candidate for long ageing. The grapes are from Liger-Belair's holdings – almost two hectares – in this climat, considered the finest in Nuits.
Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair	Richebourg Grand Cru	2022	97	Row 65 - Cell 4	Top of the range – this is a wine of superb concentration, with penetrating aromas of blackberry and plum coloured with an almost pungent mineral note, smoke, leather, and spice. The wine is somewhat closed out of barrel. Still, one has the impression of immense density, firm and compact tannins without being astringent, and enough fresh acidity to carry this to an impressively complex, lingering finish. Don't rush to open this wine, it will last for 50 years.
Maison Millemann	Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru	2022	97	Row 66 - Cell 4	This delicious wine bursts with blackberry and cassis fruit and abundant hints of smoke, earth, and Havana cigar. The texture is lushly approachable and intense, with a tannic grip that doesn't come to bear until the impressively long finish. The grapes are mainly fermented as whole clusters or individual whole berries gently extracted and trod by foot only at the end of the fermentation before ageing in new casks. The wine should be ready to drink fairly soon after release yet will have the substance for long ageing.
Bouchard Père & Fils	Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru	2022	97	Row 67 - Cell 4	Frédéric Weber explained his parcellaire approach to Chevalier, where the house has an enormous 2.33 hectares (in addition to their La Cabotte holding): the upper terrace has a tight energy and lighter body, with a suggestion of citrus fruit 'beaux amers'. The next terrace down delivers wine with a hint of mandarin orange. The penultimate terrace gives a richer, more substantial wine with ripe apple aromas, while the lowest terrace gives the most powerful wine that almost resembles the honeyed density of Bâtard-Montrachet. The blend of them all is superb and will age for decades.
Bouchard Père & Fils, La Cabotte	Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru	2022	97	Row 68 - Cell 4	The wines of Chevalier La Cabotte lie between 'regular' Chevalier and Montrachet itself in location and quality. The wine is not as open as the classic Chevalier at present, yet aromas of lemon peel, apricot and pear are present with shadings of acacia flower and honey. Rich and creamy texture: 'Much closer to Montrachet than Chevalier,' I noted on the day. The grapes come from a 0.21ha monopole up-slope from Bouchard's Montrachet holdings, consistently producing a wine that will live for decades.
Domaine Alvina Pernot	Puligny-Montrachet (1er Cru Folatières)	2022	97	Row 69 - Cell 4	Fragrant with aromas of lemon peel, white flowers, spice and a bit of smoky reduction. A winning finesse and lightness for the vintage make it particularly good. The grapes come from the 1ha Pernot family parcel, fermented in cask with all the lees and aged in mostly used casks. Stylish and elegant: a wine of remarkable precision, balance and length.
Domaine Jean Chartron	Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru	2022	97	Row 70 - Cell 4	This peerless wine is the summit of the domaine wines from Chartron. It is produced from a half-hectare of vines at the northern end of the original Chevalier-Montrachet. This is the Clos des Chevaliers, right next to the vines from Domaine d'Auvenay. The aromas span a complex range from lime zest through ripe pear to nectarine and passionfruit, with exotic spice, flint, and smoke nuances. The core of the texture is a rapier-fine acidity (even in sunny '22), but there is density and weight as well. Allow seven to ten years before opening; this should drink well for 30 - 40 years from the vintage.
Domaine Paul Pillot	Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru La Romanée)	2022	97	Row 71 - Cell 4	Thierry Pillot describes his Romanée as a 'shell that closes in upon itself; there's a bit of reduction, but that doesn't trouble me'. I completely agree. It is a lovely wine with aromas of grapefruit and greengages, and a strong saline/mineral component. The texture, however, is still deep and rich, and it is almost chewy, and absolutely superb. The grapes come from 1ha of 70-year-old vines at the top of La Romanée, which delivered 2022 a wine of vibrancy and power.
Lamy-Caillat	Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru La Romanée)	2022	97	Row 72 - Cell 4	Sébastien Caillat noted that he picked La Romanée after Tonton Marcel (on 28 August), but in his view, there is more energy. The pronounced aromas range from guava and passionfruit to lime zest and pomelo, with flint, chalk, and spice accents. The grapes are grown just a bit lower on the slope than Tonton Marcel; they are crushed and firmly pressed in a vertical press before fermentation in new and used casks. The wine will be bottled unfined and unfiltered after its second winter. This monumental wine will last for decades in a proper cellar.
Lamy-Caillat	Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru Les Champs-Gains)	2022	97	Row 73 - Cell 4	Compared to the rest of the climats farmed by this domaine, Champs Gains is low on the slope, at the bottom of the premier cru band. Caillat says that while it is profound and rich, it can be heavy, and one needs to pick early. In 2022, they began on 24 August and produced a wine with an expressive aroma of grapefruit and guava with notes of smoke and spice with a salty mineral underpinning. There is undoubtedly richness on the palate, but there is also a compact tension that balances the robust structure.
Lamy-Caillat	Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru Caillerets)	2022	97	Row 74 - Cell 4	As with last year, the Les Caillerets shows smoky reduction aromas most clearly, but there is more here than that, with notes of ripe pear, peach and salty minerality. The grapes are from a half-hectare site planted with venerable vines that give tiny, super-concentrated grapes. The yeast struggles to ferment their rich juice, but here has produced a marvellously detailed and powerful wine that retains remarkable balance.
Louis Jadot, Les Demoiselles	Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru	2022	97	Row 75 - Cell 4	The superb Jadot Chevalier Demoiselles bottling is often my favourite white in their cellar. The 2022 vintage enchants with concentrated aromas of nectarine and passionfruit with notes of linden flowers, hazelnut, and flint. The texture is compact and tightly wound with freshness, but there is no lack of substance here, and the wine lingers impressively on the finish. This wine deserves at least five years in the cellar before opening and should drink well for at least 30 years after the vintage.
Albert Bichot, Domaine du Clos Frantin	Chambertin Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 76 - Cell 4	Bichot's 0.17-hectare holding at the top of the slope has produced an evocative, lovely wine with a forward pomegranate and red plum fruit with hints of spice, smoke, and earth. The texture is silky and more approachable than the 2020 vintage at a similar point. The vines are worked by horse and farmed organically, with everything done by hand—truly 'à l'ancien' in the best way. The results speak for themselves since this is a delicious wine. It will be drinkable reasonably early on but has the substance for long-term ageing.
Anne Gros	Richebourg Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 77 - Cell 4	This is a thrilling wine, deceptively light in colour but aromatically powerful, with a concentrated pomegranate and black cherry fruit character and an extraordinary sense of density, substance, and length on the palate. The grapes come from the Gros family holdings in Les Vérroilles; the youngest vines are 50 years old; the balance is 75. They are destemmed and gently fermented before ageing in cask (30% new). This wine is a model of both finesse and power. Ideally, wine lovers will wait a decade from the vintage to sample its beauties; this wine will live a half-century.
Arnaud Mortet	Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 78 - Cell 4	The Mazoyères-Chambertin from Arnaud Mortet is the finest of the negociant line from this producer, with lovely cassis and mulberry fruit touched with notes of earth and smoke. The texture is dense, and the tannic grip is firm. Mortet works the vines himself and vinifies on native yeasts with 30% whole clusters before ageing in cask (70% new) over two winters and bottling unfiltered. This wine should open more fully in five years and will age effortlessly for another twenty after that.
Benjamin Leroux	Chambertin Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 79 - Cell 4	The Chambertin from Benjamin Leroux is a tour de force with a black plum and cassis fruit character, and dark chocolate and earth notes. The texture has impressive density, firm tannins, and the depth of flavour to ensure that this wine carries through to a satisfyingly long finish. Leroux buys the fruit as grapes and ferments nearly all as whole clusters, gently extracting during fermentation to avoid over-concentration. This wine has been racked early into cask to preserve freshness. It should be approachable in five years and continue to improve for another thirty after that.
Bouchard Père & Fils, Vigne de l'Enfant Jésus	Beaune (1er Cru Grèves)	2022	96	Row 80 - Cell 4	The 2022 Baby Jesus is a wine of gorgeous intensity, with alluringly ripe aromas of blackberry and plum with notes of peony and spice. The forward fruits continue on the palate as intensely sweet and silky, with a density and grip that are only apparent with time. The grapes are from nearly four hectares of vines, although only the oldest vines and most concentrated fruit are used for this bottling, with some declassified into Beaune du Château. This wine will open in five to seven years and should easily drink for 30 more after the harvest.
Bouchard Père & Fils	Corton Le Corton Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 81 - Cell 4	The 2022 Bouchard Corton boasts concentrated mulberry and black plum fruit aromas, hints of violets and liquorice, and sweet oak spice. The texture is velvety and dense, with supple tannins and a pleasantly persistent finish underscored by a saline mineral note. Despite the location of the vines near the top of the slope, the grapes were picked early; 40% of the crop was fermented as whole clusters. This wine should open up in five to seven years and drink for another 25 beyond that.
Clos de Tart, La Forge de Tart	Morey-St-Denis (1er Cru)	2022	96	Row 82 - Cell 4	The 'second wine' of the Clos de Tart demonstrates exceptional quality in 2022, with notes of ripe cassis and blackberry fruit accented by notes of earth and smoke. The texture is concentrated and rich, with powerful tannins and a long finish. The wine is made with younger vines of the Clos from the blocks called Jeanniard and Plantation 2005, along with some older vines coming from clonal selections, although these are now being top-grafted over to massale selection. A quarter of the grapes were fermented as whole clusters, and the wine is ageing in cask (45% new).
Domaine AF Gros	Échezéaux Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 83 - Cell 4	This lovely wine has a complex array of red and black fruit aromas with a pleasant depth created by smoke, earth, and leather hints. The texture is firm and muscular, with rewarding density and impressive length. The grapes are now from the Gros family holdings; previously, Caroline Parent and her brother Mathias had vinified 0.26 hectares in a sharecropping agreement, but the owner took back the vines. Fortunately for the pair, following the reshuffling of the Gros holdings among the parties, they now farm 0.56 of their vines.
Domaine Amiot-Servelle	Chambolle-Musigny (1er Cru Les Amoureuses)	2022	96	Row 84 - Cell 4	Amiot-Servelle farms a significant parcel of Amoureuses on the northern side of the appellation that totals 0.45 hectares, stretching from the portion on Comblanchien limestone (like Musigny) down to the part underpinned by Prémeaux limestone, bringing the wine another level of complexity. The aromas begin with ripe currant and blackberry fruit touched with hints of violets, cedar, and black tea. The texture is textbook Amoureuses, lush, forward, and supple, yet dense and long on the palate. 65% of the grapes are fermented as whole clusters and gently extracted before ageing over two winters in cask (half new).
Domaine Amiot-Servelle	Clos St-Denis Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 85 - Cell 4	This wine is the biggest red in the cellar, and it is in top form after a lacklustre 2021, showing profuse aromas of blackberry and mint with a hint of liquorice and a slightly gamey edge. The texture is firm, tannic and long. The wine comes from a 0.17-hectare parcel inherited from Domaine Pierre Amiot planted to ancient vines, whose grapes are fermented on native yeasts with a moderate inclusion of whole clusters and a gentle hand with the extraction.
Domaine Arlaud	Chambolle-Musigny (1er Cru Les Sentiers)	2022	96	Row 86 - Cell 4	The complex blend of exotic Asian spice, forward pomegranate fruit, and savoury, earthy notes make the Chambolle Sentiers an intriguing wine. Some oak is still showing through, but this will integrate with time. There is more density and extract than one might think for a Chambolle at this level, which draws this out to a forceful and long conclusion—charming wine. The grapes come from a parcel of 0.23 hectares that are partially destemmed and aged in a combination of new and used casks.
Domaine Arlaud	Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 87 - Cell 4	This surprisingly expressive wine opens with profuse aromas of violets and blackberry underscored with a firmly saline mineral note. I found the wine very generous; Cyprian Arlaud commented 'I try to make it as a Charmes-Chambertin. The parcel, however, is in Mazoyères, just under the road that separates it from Latricières. Its grippy tannic texture on the finish seems to start as a seductive Charmes but finish more faithful to the somewhat stricter Mazoyères mould.
Domaine Arlaud	Clos de la Roche Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 88 - Cell 4	The Clos de la Roche from Arlaud is from the lieu-dit Mochamps; the parcel runs from the road up to Domaine Ponsot. 20% of the grapes are fermented as whole clusters, and the wine is ageing now in cask, 20% new. The wine is charmingly aromatic, with a ripe, peony-scented cherry fruit and earthy notes. The texture is silky, round, and velvety; there is more aromatic expression but less depth than the Charmes-Chambertin. The wine should start to open in five years and will continue to improve for a further twenty.
Domaine Armand Rousseau	Clos de la Roche Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 89 - Cell 4	Although it is sometimes overlooked, the Clos de la Roche from Rousseau is a superb wine. Tasted with Cyrielle from barrel, it was initially a bit reduced and slightly closed, but it opens up with ripe plum and black cherry fruit on the palate underscored by a firm, earthy minerality. The texture is wonderfully dense and long. With nearly 1.5 hectares, Rousseau is the third-largest proprietor here, after Ponsot and Dujac. They have almost a hectare in Fremières and almost a half-hectare in the original Clos de la Roche. The grapes are destemmed and gently fermented before ageing in used casks.
Domaine Armand Rousseau	Gevrey-Chambertin (1er Cru Cazetiers)	2022	96	Row 90 - Cell 4	The 2022 Rousseau Cazetiers is more powerful and structured than the Lavaux-Saint-Jacques, with ripe blackberry and cassis fruit touched with exotic Asian spices. The firm tannic grip and texture rich with extract lead the wine to an impressively long finish. The grapes come from a 0.60-hectare parcel at mid-slope. With a few years of age, this should open well and will easily drink well over the next twenty years at least.
Domaine Armand Rousseau, Clos des Ruchottes	Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 91 - Cell 4	Powerful and aromatic, the Clos des Ruchottes is always a particular favourite of those who love tension and concentration. The 2022 shows a forward black fruit aroma with a floral edge and plenty of saline mineral concentration, but it is tightly wound and packed with potential. This is among the best Ruchottes of the vintage: silky and very fine but impressively dense, with immense length and great complexity. This wine will take at least five years to come around but should last for decades.
Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet	Échezéaux Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 92 - Cell 4	This peerless Echézeaux has pronounced blackberry and plum aromas with an edge of smoke and savoury game notes. The texture is dense and tannic, but there is no 'makeup' here – Berthaut is not using any new casks for ageing (there are three in total), giving this wine great purity of fruit. She blends grapes from Les Treux, Quartier de Nuits, and Champs Traversins and ferments them with 80% whole clusters to deliver this thrilling result. It should begin to open in five years and will drink for two or three decades after that – this is a step up from her already-worthy range.
Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet	Vosne-Romanée (1er Cru Les Petits Monts)	2022	96	Row 93 - Cell 4	The luminous vermillion hue of this wine announces it will be memorable; the initial attack boasts aromas of black cherry and pomegranate with hints of rose petals, star anise, and boxwood. The texture is bright and clean, with firm tannins and abundant crisp acidity, but enough warmth to make this feel approachable. The grapes are from the domaine's half-hectare spread over five parcels, all worked by horse and hand to deliver these perfectly ripe grapes; half are fermented as whole clusters before ageing in cask (one-quarter new).
Domaine Bruno Clair, La Murée, Les Longeroies	Marsannay	2022	96	Row 94 - Cell 4	Bruno's father, Bernard, made a Cuvée des Vieilles Murées at Domaine Clair-Daü; Bruno has revived the tradition. The vines for this were planted between 1920 and 1024 in lieux-dit Les Longeroies at the northern end of the village. Out of the barrel, the wine has an inky dark colour, ripe, plummy fruit, and abundant flesh and structure. Impressive for the vintage, a lively acidity carries it to a marvellously lingering finish. Again superb.
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé	Chambolle-Musigny (1er Cru Les Amoureuses)	2022	96	Row 95 - Cell 4	Amoureuses as it should be. Previous vintages always struck me as pleasantly soft and rich, but this is more substantial, with dense, dark plum and mulberry fruit, abundant spice notes of ginger and star anise, and aromatic rose petals. The texture is powerful and dense without being astringent or unpleasantly firm. Ideally, wait 5 – 10 years before opening this wine and then enjoy it over the next three to four decades. Production is vastly diminished due to replanting nearly a third of the vineyard, but finding an allocation of this truly top Chambolle is worthwhile.
Domaine d’Eugénie	Échezéaux Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 96 - Cell 4	The rain 'changed the face of the vintage' according to winemaker Michel Mallard. It brought a fresh elegance and pronounced floral notes to this wine. The difference, according to Mallard, is that the wines from 2020 are denser; those from 2022 give pleasure right now. The domaine did two green harvests to concentrate the fruit. There is both concentration and elegance in this Echézeaux. The grapes come from a half-hectare of vines, all in the cool terroir of the Combe d'Orveau. 80% of them were fermented as whole clusters, and the wine is now ageing in cask, six out of nine of which are new.
Domaine d’Eugénie	Vosne-Romanée (1er Cru Aux Brûlées)	2022	96	Row 97 - Cell 4	This stunning wine boasts an evocative black cherry and pomegranate fruit aroma with notes of violets, wild herbs, and earth. The texture is silky and elegant, yet hauntingly long and grippy at the end, featuring a beguiling combination of lightness and tension. The grapes are from the old vines in the 1.2-hectare holding in Aux Brûlées (the young vines are declassified); 80% of the grapes are fermented as whole clusters, and the wine is now ageing in cask (5 of 9 of which are new).
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti	Échezéaux Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 98 - Cell 4	The 2022 Echézeaux from the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti is an exuberant, expressive wine with red and black fruit aromas much more open than the Corton. The initial fruit character is given nuance and depth by hints of violets and exotic spice that also echo on the palate. The texture is supple and round, and the fruit has a lovely sweetness that the French would call 'sucrosité'. The grapes were picked from the domaine's mammoth holding of more than 4.5 hectares in Poulaillères between 11-13 September, making them among the last grapes to come in.
Domaine de Montille, Cuvée Christiane	Vosne-Romanée (1er Cru Malconsorts)	2022	96	Row 99 - Cell 4	This superb wine boasts forward, accessible plum and blackberry fruit with smoke, leather, and spice accents. Given the abundant tannic grip and density here, the texture is silky and supple but lacks nothing in structure or power. There is enough acidity to balance everything and lead to an impressively long finish. The grapes come from the half-hectare plot bordering La Tâche, fermented on native yeasts primarily as whole clusters. This wine should open five to 10 years after release and drink well for at least 20 years afterwards.
Domaine des Croix	Corton Grèves Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 100 - Cell 4	David Croix's 2022 Corton Grèves was particularly successful — he reported picking some of the grapes at 14.7% potential alcohol. There is an intense mulberry and pomegranate fruit aroma with hints of earth and spice; the tannins are firm but not astringent, and the rich extract carries the wine to a lingering finish. The grapes come from just over a half-hectare of vines in the centre of the climat that run the length of the slope. They are partially destemmed and gently fermented on native yeasts before ageing in cask (one-third new).
Domaine du Clos de la Commaraine	Pommard (1er Cru Clos de la Commaraine)	2022	96	Row 101 - Cell 4	The team's work at Domaine de la Commaraine is truly exciting, and the potential can be seen in this sample blend of the new vintage. The wine boasts a forward, luxurious blackberry and pomegranate aroma with hints of violets, spice, and smoke. The texture is lush and dense but abundant with well-managed tannins, substantial extract, and an immensely long finish. The grapes are from the eponymous 3.63-hectare Clos, although some have been declassified by régisseur Paul Krug, who formerly worked with Pedro Para. This domaine is definitely one to watch.
Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair	Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 102 - Cell 4	Liger-Belair now farms 60 ares in metayage from Nathalie Pacaud-Lamarche; he has explained that they are 'near the Château', thus from the two parcels in Montiottes Hautes owned by Domaine Lamarche. He previously had purchased the fruit from a different 30 ares on the other side of the vineyard. He is keeping only one-third of this. In 2022, he fermented the grapes primarily as whole clusters and is ageing the wine in new casks to produce this prodigious wine with a ripe cassis fruit aroma coloured with earth, smoke and spice. The texture is concentrated, long and powerful, yet it is not forbidding.
Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair	Échezéaux Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 103 - Cell 4	This approachable, forward Echézeaux bursts with lovely raspberry and mulberry fruit aromas touched with cigar leaf, earth, smoke and leather. The texture is supple yet firmly tannic and substantial, carried to an exceptional finish by fresh acidity that is surprisingly crisp for the vintage. The blend includes the 0.62 hectares that Liger-Belair already farmed in Cruots, Champs Traversins, and Clos Saint-Denis, as well as the 25 additional ares from Nathalie Pacareau-Lamarche; they are gently fermented on native yeasts principally as whole clusters before ageing in new casks and bottling without fining or filtration.
Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair	Grands-Échézeaux Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 104 - Cell 4	This engaging, lovely wine boasts abundant fresh fruit aromas of cassis, cherry, and pomegranate with nuance of mint, violets, and earth. The texture is tannic and firm, with enough structure to carry the wine to a lingering finish. The grapes come from 0.31 hectares that Liger-Belair works in metayage from Nathalie Pacareau-Lamarche; this will be the first vintage for his estate. The wine shows evidence of being ready to drink after three to five years in bottle; it should have the substance to age for a further 20 years afterwards.
Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair	Vosne-Romanée (1er Cru Aux Brûlées)	2022	96	Row 105 - Cell 4	This stylish premier cru is among Liger-Belair's smallest, with just under 12 ares. The results, however, are impressive. True to its name, a smoky quality suffuses the ripe currant and cranberry fruit. The texture is dense, structured, and complex; the fruit lingers invitingly on the palate. The vines are located in Aux Brûlées proper, north of Richebourg. The biodynamically grown grapes are partially destemmed and fermented on native yeasts before ageing in new casks, bottled unfined and unfiltered.
Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair	Vosne-Romanée (1er Cru Les Petits Monts)	2022	96	Row 106 - Cell 4	The 2022 Petits Monts from Liger-Belair shares the elegance and finesse of his Croix Rameau offering, but there is more power and structure here. The initial attack shows concentrated mulberry and plum aromas with hints of earth and a saline minerality; the fruit has lovely depth and flavour. The texture is tannic, fresh, and concentrated, with rich extract and a lingering finish. The grapes are from a tiny 0.13-hectare parcel that Liger-Belair farms at the top of the Richebourg slope near his holding in Aux Reignots – superb wine.
Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair	Vosne-Romanée (1er Cru Malconsorts)	2022	96	Row 107 - Cell 4	The inaugural vintage of Liger-Belair's Malconsorts is a brilliant success, with a bright cherry fruit with hints of rose petals and spice. The texture is ethereal and perfumed, yet there is still a firm structure to the fruit, underpinned by an intriguing, savoury, smoky edge. The grapes come from two parcels that total a half-hectare, lying along the southern extremity of the climat on the border with Nuits at either end of the vines belonging to Bichot. These vines are in biodynamic conversion and yield wine worthy of the domaine.
Domaine Dugat-Py	Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 108 - Cell 4	This superb wine boasts a dense and lovely ripe plum and blackberry fruit aroma with plenty of depth and substance. The tannins are supple and not at all astringent. The grapes come from several small organically farmed parcels near the top of the appellation close to Chambertin, blended with a bit of Mazoyères. They are vinified 75% as whole clusters, with a very gentle extraction before ageing in cask (one-third new). For maximum pleasure, age this for at least five years from release to allow it to open up.
Domaine Dugat-Py	Gevrey-Chambertin (1er Cru Fonteny)	2022	96	Row 109 - Cell 4	The only defect to this wine is that there is so little of it—just two ouvrées (0.08 hectares), and the winemaking is done in clay amphorae, with 75% whole clusters before ageing in cask (half new). The vines are trained on two-metre stakes outfitted with wires. This is the last parcel before Ruchottes-Chambertin grand cru, and the grapes have produced a wine of incredible concentration and density with a dark mulberry fruit aroma accented with hints of smoke and leather, and a lovely texture that juggles firm tannins and fresh acidity—impressive wine.
Domaine Dugat-Py	Gevrey-Chambertin (1er Cru Petite Chapelle)	2022	96	Row 110 - Cell 4	Dugat-Py farms just under a third of a hectare in two parcels of Petite Chapelle, directly downslope from Chapelle-Chambertin grand cru. The average age of the vines is seventy years. Three-quarters of the grapes were fermented as whole clusters to produce this dark, lovely blackberry and mulberry-scented wine with floral notes, a fantastic depth of flavour, and impressive length. Loïc Dugat-Py describes it as 'energie'; it is certainly a vibrant, dynamic wine.
Domaine Dujac	Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 111 - Cell 4	The deeply coloured Charmes boasts an impressively ripe plummy fruit with menthol, earth, and smoke accents. The tannic structure is silky and very fine – less grippy than many – and enough extract ensures that the finish lingers invitingly on the palate. The grapes are from four parcels split between Aux Charmes and Mazoyères; approximately 85% were fermented as whole clusters in 2022, with fewer punch-downs to avoid over-extraction. The result is elegant and very fine.
Domaine Dujac	Clos de la Roche Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 112 - Cell 4	The 2022 Clos de la Roche from Dujac is a wine of impressive concentration, even if it is not so loveable at this point. It seems (along with the Clos Saint-Denis) to be a bit austere, but a ripe, plummy fruit opens up on the palate with nuances of smoke, earth and spice. Despite the slight austerity at this stage, this is impressively long, powerful, and nuanced, and one imagines sweet fruit will develop with time. The grapes are from their six parcels scattered throughout the climat, accounting for almost two hectares; the wine is now doing its second winter ageing in cask.
Domaine Dujac	Clos St-Denis Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 113 - Cell 4	This delicious Clos Saint-Denis starts with a well-developed blackberry and pomegranate fruit aroma touched with star anise and pepper and a salty mineral tang to give it an impressive depth of flavour. The wine has much more density and substance than last year, with firm tannins and a beautifully lingering finish of haunting complexity. This wine should start to open within five to seven years and should drink well for decades afterwards. The grapes are from several parcels that total 1.47 hectares spread throughout the various lieux-dits of this emblematic climat.
Domaine Dujac	Échezéaux Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 114 - Cell 4	Deep ruby in colour, the 2022 Echézeaux from Dujac is slightly closed initially but opens on the palate to reveal a ripe black plum fruit touched with earth and an undercurrent of ground coffee and smoke. The texture is not as supple or velvety as the Malconsorts or Charmes-Chambertin, and the firmish tannins have a slightly astringent texture. With time, this tannic edge will resolve, and there is enough concentration and tension in this wine to indicate that if it is somewhat austere at present, it is a wine for the ages.
Domaine Dujac	Gevrey-Chambertin (1er Cru Aux Combottes)	2022	96	Row 115 - Cell 4	The Gevrey Combottes is once again a standout in the Dujac lineup. A discreet and subtle wine, the fruit ripeness is impressive, but it starts slightly closed and really opens on the palate with aromas of pomegranate, kirsch, and violets. The structure is impressive, with tannin that is at once firm but also very fine-grained and elegant. The density is rewarding, and the finish lingers on the palate. The grapes are from their 1.16-hectare site and are fermented as mostly whole clusters before ageing in cask.
Domaine Dujac	Vosne-Romanée (1er Cru Les Beaux Monts)	2022	96	Row 116 - Cell 4	There is a lovely tannic depth to the ripe, supple mulberry fruit of the 2022 Beaux Monts from Dujac that gives a solid impression of structure and length, but the wine is approachable as well, and the balance between the wine's tension and forward fruit is compelling. The grapes come from almost three-quarters of a hectare near the base of the slope. The grapes were partially destemmed and fermented on native yeasts before ageing in cask.
Domaine Dujac	Vosne-Romanée (1er Cru Malconsorts)	2022	96	Row 117 - Cell 4	The 2022 Malconsorts from Dujac is an impressive, monumental wine with concentrated red and black fruit aromas touched with herbal, floral and spice aromas from the use of whole clusters in the ferment (85%). The tannins are firm but not astringent, and there is a lovely depth to the wine that is a testament to the quality of this terroir. The grapes come from more than 1.5 hectares at the northern edge of Malconsorts, which overlaps into Gaudichots, although this is not indicated on the label. Ideally, wait seven to 10 years before drinking.
Domaine Duroché	Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 118 - Cell 4	Lovely and expressive, the Charmes-Chambertin from Duroché features bright black cherry fruit with notes of violets, earth, and spice. Despite the heat of the year, the wine has a vibrant freshness; the grippy tannins drive the sensation to a lingering finish. The grapes come from several parcels, all located in Aux Charmes; they are mostly destemmed and carefully fermented with a delicate extraction. The result is precision and purity of fruit that is truly delicious.
Domaine Duroché	Gevrey-Chambertin (1er Cru Cazetiers)	2022	96	Row 119 - Cell 4	This tiny holding (0.09 hectares) provides enough fruit for a single barrel; until 2015, it was blended into the village wine, but Pierre Duroché felt it singular enough to warrant a separate bottling. The 2022 certainly justifies his decision: it is supremely fragrant, with a bright, curranty fruit touched with spice notes and earth. The texture is supple and softly silky; there is a pleasant concentration but no heaviness. It is very rare juice, but the quality suggests you should seek it out.
Domaine Duroché	Gevrey-Chambertin (1er Cru Estournelles St Jacques)	2022	96	Row 120 - Cell 4	Duroché's small (0.12 hectare) holding is the first plot south of the wall from the Clos St-Jacques, on the way into the Combe de Lavaux at the top of the slope. Despite being a reasonably cool terroir, Duroché has coaxed a wine of silky density from these grapes, with an expressive mulberry and pomegranate fruit with a strong suggestion of violets. The texture is disarmingly velvety and pleasantly persistent on the palate.
Domaine Faiveley	Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 121 - Cell 4	This superb example of one of Faiveley's top wines from Gevrey seduces with expressive mulberry and pomegranate fruit, hints of rose petals and suggestions of star anise, smoke and earth. This wine is more firmly tannic and substantial than the Charmes-Chambertin, with a saline minerality and penetrating length that should open up 3 – 5 years after release and drink for another twenty after that. As Erwan noted, the style is 'caught between Clos de la Roche and Chambertin'; the domaine owns nearly 1.3 hectares that are being replanted slowly.
Domaine Fourrier	Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 122 - Cell 4	The Griotte is the undisputed champion of the Fourrier cellar; the 2022 is no exception. It has yielded a super-concentrated wine with a pronounced blackberry and cassis fruit, hints of violets, earth, and exotic Asian spices. The texture is velvety, and the finish is exceptionally long. The quality of the tannins is firm but very smooth, so there is no astringency at all. The grapes come from a 0.28-hectare parcel planted in 1928; they were destemmed, but some of the ripest stems were added back in to facilitate the fermentation. This is among the best Griottes I have tasted.
Domaine François Buffet	Pommard (1er Cru Les Poutures)	2022	96	Row 123 - Cell 4	Poutures is up the slope from the Clos Micot. In contrast to this latter wine, Poutures is silky and fine. It does not lack substance, but there is an enchanting floral note and a ripe, plummy fruit on the initial attack. There is enough tannin and body to drive the wine to a lingering finish, but nothing is astringent here. The grapes are from a 0.27-hectare parcel; one-third are fermented as whole clusters, and the wine is ageing in a cask (20% new). This wine was among my favourites in the cellar.
Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg	Chambolle-Musigny (1er Cru Les Feusselottes)	2022	96	Row 124 - Cell 4	The Mugneret-Gibourg Feusselottes 2022 combines the elegance and finesse of the sister's style with the depth and concentration of the vineyard. It boasts ripe raspberry and cassis fruit, lovely, expressive floral notes, and a hint of spice. The texture is silky and delicate, yet enough density and grip drive this to a surprisingly long finish. The grapes come from almost a half-hectare of vines the domaine has farmed since 1985; they are destemmed before a gentle fermentation and ageing in cask (one-third new).
Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat	Vosne-Romanée (1er Cru Malconsorts)	2022	96	Row 125 - Cell 4	Charles Van Canneyt qualifies his Malconsorts as his favourite wine at the domaine. It makes a triumphant return after being declassified in the difficult 2021 vintage. This year, the wine shows a bright, forward black cherry fruit with hints of lavender and spice. There is a marvellous depth of flavour, and the wine is rich and round without being imposing – it is a wine of great elegance. The grapes come from his 0.14-hectare parcel in the slightly sandy soils of the upper part of the vineyard, just south of Cathiard. Only bottled in magnum.
Domaine Jean Grivot, La Combe d'Orveau	Chambolle-Musigny	2022	96	Row 126 - Cell 4	Grivot's village-level Chambolle Combe d'Orveau has a lovely dark colour and silky, perfumed cherry fruit coloured with notes of lavender and spice. The wine is approachable and supple in texture, yet it does not lack structure or depth. Etienne Grivot explained his philosophy with this late-ripening terroir: picking early to preserve acidity means punching down firmly to extract; he prefers picking later and treating the wine more gently. The grapes are destemmed and will age 15 months in barrel and a couple more in tank before bottling.
Domaine Jean Grivot	Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 127 - Cell 4	Warm, lush, and tannic, this wine shows an intensely ripe, plummy fruit aroma with notes of smoke and spice and impressive depth and length. It is the best Clos Vougeot I can recall having from this domaine. The Grivot family has a large parcel (1.86 hectares) at the base of the slope, which is not a highly regarded position in the Clos. Mathilde, however, has made exemplary work of it here. The carefully sorted grapes were destemmed and gently punched down during the fermentation on native yeasts.
Domaine Jean Grivot	Vosne-Romanée (1er Cru Les Beaux Monts)	2022	96	Row 128 - Cell 4	The 2022 Beaux Monts from Grivot is back on form, with a piercing mulberry fruit accented with floral notes and a bit of spice on the attack. The texture is concentrated and pure, with impressive freshness for the vintage, a lovely depth of flavour, and a firm, mineral underpinning. The wine is produced from nearly a hectare of vines split between Beaux Monts Bas in Flagey and Beaux Monts Hauts in Vosne, and it is generally among the standouts from this domaine.
Domaine Jean Grivot	Vosne-Romanée (1er Cru Les Suchots)	2022	96	Row 129 - Cell 4	There is gratifying richness and depth to the ripe plummy fruit with a mineral edge and notes of fresh violets and spice. The texture is firmly tannic, but there is abundant density and the freshness to draw the wine to a lingering finish. The grapes are from a quarter-hectare in the lower section of Suchots where their neighbour is Comte Liger-Belair; Mathilde thinks of it as 'my little Richebourg'. The wine will open in three to five years and should continue to improve for a further 30.
Domaine Jean Grivot	Vosne-Romanée (1er Cru Reignots)	2022	96	Row 130 - Cell 4	2022 was a good year for Grivot's Reignots. The domaine owns a tiny 0.07-hectare slice, planted in 1954. The vines produced this year a wine with a pronounced black cherry fruit aroma with notes of rose petals and spice and a compact texture of purity and depth, with an almost saline minerality and a lovely, lengthy finish. This wine should come around within three to five years and should drink well for 20 or more following that.
Domaine Jérôme Galeyrand, En Croisette	Gevrey-Chambertin	2022	96	Row 131 - Cell 4	This impressive wine has considerable balance and poise to its expressive plummy fruit with hints of earth and smoke. It seems much more put together than most village-level wines. The texture is firmly tannic but not astringent, and the finish is surprisingly long. The grapes come from a 0.20-hectare parcel of old vines planted in the '30s in Brochon just south of Jeunes Rois. Half of the harvest is vinified as whole clusters, and the wine is ageing now in cask (half new).
Domaine Jessiaume, Numerus Clausus	Santenay (1er Cru Les Gravières)	2022	96	Row 132 - Cell 4	William Waterkeyn at Jessiaume has set aside five barrels of Gravières from his oldest vines (80-years-old) to produce this super-cuvée. The winemaking is the same, except there is slightly more new wood (two barrels out of five). The fruit is deep and dark, with notes of cassis and mulberry and hints of leather, bay leaf, wood smoke and spice from the oak. The full body is amply supported by the firm, slightly rugged tannins and surprising freshness to draw this to a persistent finish. Age this for five years before opening; it should last at least a further 20.
Domaine Lamy-Pillot	Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru Clos St-Jean)	2022	96	Row 133 - Cell 4	The red version of the Clos St-Jean in 2022 boasts a ripe mulberry and plum fruit with nuance of earth, spice, and floral notes. The texture is supple and dense with silky tannins, abundant concentration, and a profoundly lingering finish. Caillat chalks the success up to the excellent quality vine material planted by his wife's grandfather on just shy of 0.30 hectares of this prime site for Pinot between the quarries and the village – marvellous wine.
Domaine Marquis d'Angerville	Volnay (1er Cru En Champans)	2022	96	Row 134 - Cell 4	This monumental wine is, as always, a reference for the appellation. In 2022, there is a lovely density of plum and blackberry fruit with spice and earth notes. The texture is plump, velvety and long, with supple tannins supporting the wine without adding astringency. D'Angerville destems and gave the grapes a cold soak before fermentation on native yeasts and ageing in cask (mainly used) to preserve the limpid purity of the fruit. Give this wine five years before opening, and it should continue to improve for at least 30 years beyond that.
Domaine Marquis d'Angerville	Volnay (1er Cru Les Taillepieds)	2022	96	Row 135 - Cell 4	Even in a hot year such as 2022, it struck me as odd that the Taillepieds would be more open than many other wines in the d'Angerville cellar. Yet, there was a strikingly lush blackberry fruit character with generous earthy nuance and a hint of violets that was delightful. The sweet fruit character carried through on the palate, with a plump yet still tannic and substantial texture. Given this profile, it will be ready to drink three to five years after the vintage, yet it should age well.
Domaine Méo-Camuzet	Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 136 - Cell 4	Meo's Clos de Vougeot has a forward black cherry and lavender aroma with hints of earth and spice. The texture retains great elegance and finesse, with supple but firm tannins, abundant fresh acidity, and a lovely depth of extract. This wine has an alcohol level among the highest in the cellar, but it is still under 14% - an admirable achievement in 2022. Méo tells us that he will blend his parcels to make one wine this year from his 2.75 hectares of vines in La Garenne (Près le Cellier) and Grand Maupertuis.
Domaine Michel Lafarge	Volnay (1er Cru Les Caillerets)	2022	96	Row 137 - Cell 4	The Caillerets is among my favourites in the Lafarge cellar this year. Its engagingly ripe plummy fruit has a deep, savoury edge with hints of saline minerality. The texture is richer, and the finish is longer than the usual high standard. Frédéric relates that they are now using horses only to work in this 0.28-hectare plot; the attention to detail undoubtedly pays dividends. This wine should be ready to drink in three to five years and will easily hold for 20 more.
Domaine Michel Mallard	Corton Le Rognet Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 138 - Cell 4	Silky and spicy, Mallard's Le Rognet features notes of star anise and liquorice accenting the charming mulberry fruit aromas with a hint of dark chocolate to add impressive depth of flavour. The grapes come from a 1.27-hectare holding up the slope from Méo's Clos Rognet, whose vines were planted as massale selection 70 years ago. Mallard ferments 80% of the grapes as whole clusters. This year, the old vines have produced nine barrels; seven are new. This wine should drink well in three to five years.
Domaine Nicole Lamarche	Échezéaux Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 139 - Cell 4	The 2022 Echézeaux from Lamarche is impressive, with more richness than most of the range (except La Grande Rue) and a fragrant cherry and pomegranate fruit with hints of peony and liquorice. The fruit aromas continue on the palate with great purity and finesse, but the wine is not lacking in structure. The balance overall is exemplary. The grapes come from 1.07 hectares in Vignes Blanches ou Cruouts and the Clos Saint-Denis lieu-dit in Echézeaux; she no longer has access to the quarter-hectare in Champs Traversins, but this is a delight even without that contribution.
Domaine Nicole Lamarche	La Grande Rue Grand Cru Monopole	2022	96	Row 140 - Cell 4	La Grande Rue has always been the pride of the cellar, justifiably so under Nicole Lamarche. Her 2022 has an appealingly dark ruby hue and noticeably riper plum and pomegranate fruit, accented with nuance of earth and smoke and a savoury, gamey edge that Lamarche describes as 'very mysterious'. The grapes are from the 1.65-hectare monopole next to La Tâche. She has fermented about 30% of the grapes as whole clusters, using both punching down and pumping over before ageing in cask (half new). This marvellous wine should open in five to seven years and provide decades of pleasure.
Domaine Paul Gros	Echézeaux Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 141 - Cell 4	Paul Gros, the son of Anne Gros and Jean-Paul Tollot, will bottle his inaugural vintage of Echézeaux under the lieu-dit name Les Beaux-Monts Bas, where his recent inheritance from his family is located, up-slope from Les Loächausses in Flagey. He has picked a bit later than his parents and, unlike them, is experimenting with a bit of whole clusters in the ferment. The wine is ripe and structured, with a powerful plum, blackberry fruit, and just a hint of bramble and earth. The texture is structured and rich, with a pleasantly lingering finish—he is a young producer to watch.
Domaine Pierrick Bouley	Volnay (1er Cru En Champans)	2022	96	Row 142 - Cell 4	The Champans from young Pierrick Bouley is an accomplished, delightful wine with expressive aromas of black cherry and bramble, a savoury edge, and a touch of spice. The complexity continues to develop on the palate, where the wine is approachable yet substantial enough to last twenty years or more in the cellar. The grapes are from vines averaging 50 years old, planted mid-slope, and exposed to the southeast. The grapes are destemmed but left whole and gently fermented, finishing their sugar in cask.
Domaine Ponsot	Clos de la Roche Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 143 - Cell 4	Although Ponsot's Clos de la Roche is a bit closed at this stage, it is a monumental wine with abundant plum and black cherry fruit aromas, pepper, earth, and olive. The texture is rich and dense, with firm but not forbidding tannins and a silky and elegant finish. This wine will still stay in the cask for another winter, at least. Wait at least five years before opening, ten if possible; this age-worthy beauty should last forty or fifty years.
Domaine René Bouvier	Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 144 - Cell 4	This solidly built, substantial, deeply-coloured wine boasts prominent blackberry and currant fruit aromas with hints of earth and smoke. The texture is tannic and firm, with impressive concentration and length. The grapes come from a 0.40-hectare parcel of 60-year-old vines in Mazoyères down-slope from Latricières. Half the grapes are fermented as whole clusters, and the wine will age in cask (one-third new) for eighteen months. This wine should open in three to five years and drink well for another twenty beyond that.
Domaine René Bouvier, Clos du Roi	Marsannay	2022	96	Row 145 - Cell 4	This wine is among the greatest of the domaine. Bouvier farms nearly four hectares here, including the 1.5 hectares of vines aged 70 – 80 years that are used for this cuvée. In 2022, they have produced a wine of immense concentration and depth with blackberry and cassis fruit aromas with notes of mint and fresh flowers, earth, spice, and cedar. The texture is powerful and concentrated, but there is enough freshness to balance the rich fruit character. The terroir is the famous limestone pebbles called 'grèzes litées', and the well-exposed site ripens grapes to perfection.
Domaine Robert Groffier	Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 146 - Cell 4	Nicolas Groffier produced a classic Bonnes Mares from his one-hectare holding, with dark damson plum and mulberry fruit aromas and hints of cedar, smoke, and pepper. The structure is firmly tannic, solid, and dense, but not heavy or ungainly – muscular elegance, one might say. The parcel is in one solid piece near the Morey end of the village; Nicolas describes it as being 75% terres rouges and 25% terres blanches; the grapes are entirely fermented as whole clusters with a gentle extraction, and the resulting wine is ageing in cask (50% new).
Domaine Robert Groffier, La Grâce des Argiles	Chambolle-Musigny (1er Cru Les Amoureuses)	2022	96	Row 147 - Cell 4	Nicolas Groffier knows his Amoureuses – his domaine is the largest owner. From 2022, he will separate the portion just below Musigny, with sandier soils, from the rest, which he calls 'normal Amoureuses' from the bottom of the steep slope to the flat part next to Musigny. The grapes are entirely fermented as whole clusters but with gentle extraction and almost no punching down. The result is a deep blackberry fruit with hints of bramble, earth, and mint; the texture is firm, dense, and tannic. The wine continues to age in cask, one-third new.
Domaine Rossignol-Trapet	Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 148 - Cell 4	As with the other 2022 offerings from Rossignol-Trapet, the Chapelle-Chambertin is initially slightly reserved but opens up nicely on the palate, with an expressive plum and black cherry fruit with floral and salty mineral nuance. The texture is deliciously creamy, full-bodied but supple, and not imposing, yet it lingers impressively on the finish. The domaine owns a half-hectare, sheltered from the Combe Grisard to provide a slightly warmer microclimate, with plots split between Les Gémeaux and Grande Chapelle.
Domaine Rossignol-Trapet	Gevrey-Chambertin (1er Cru Clos Prieur)	2022	96	Row 149 - Cell 4	The premier cru portion of Clos Prieur is located just down-slope from Mazis-Bas, where Rossignol-Trapet has just over a quarter-hectare. In 2022, the vineyard produced a concentrated, lovely wine with a mulberry and black plum fruit aroma and hints of earth and spice. The texture is robust and firm, yet it is approachable and should be ready to drink fairly early. The grapes are primarily fermented as whole clusters, and the wine is now ageing in cask with a moderate proportion of new wood, delivering appealing wine that should age gracefully for fifteen to twenty years.
Domaine Sylvain Pataille, L’Ancestrale	Marsannay	2022	96	Row 150 - Cell 4	This thrilling wine is deeply complex without any heaviness at all. The initial attack begins with seductive aromas of ripe cassis and mulberry fruit and hints of smoke, earth, spice, and mint. The texture is approachable and supple, yet the finish is long and refined. The grapes come from a collection of Pataille's favourite parcels, including 90-year-old vines in the Clos de Roy and others in En Clémengeot and Les Ouzeloy, all of them left unhedged in a v-shaped goblet form (tressé) and worked by horse, farmed organically with biodynamic methods to make this spectacular wine.
Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair	Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 151 - Cell 4	The 2022 Clos Vougeot from Thibault Liger-Belair is a muscular, powerful wine dense with extract. The tannins are firm but not astringent, and the aromas range from ripe black plums to earth, smoke and mineral notes. There is much more intensity here than the wine produced last year. The grapes are from 0.75 hectares in Baudes Basses at mid-slope along the southern edge of the clos. Liger-Belair explained how he tames the tannic nature of the old vine fruit with vigorous punching down and ageing in cask 60% new). The result announces the success of his strategy.
Domaine Trapet Père & Fils	Gevrey-Chambertin (1er Cru Aux Combottes)	2022	96	Row 152 - Cell 4	The forward, ripe aromas of black plum and cassis are coloured here with notes of Havana cigar, earth, and smoke. The texture is structured and firmly tannic, with an elegantly lingering finish. This well-situated premier cru is surrounded by grand crus on every side; Louis Trapet relates that the soils are closer to Clos de la Roche than to Latricières, almost sandy. The grapes, formerly blended with Corbeaux and En Ergot, are now wholly vinified as whole clusters, and it is easy to see their merits on their own.
Domaine Trapet Père & Fils	Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 153 - Cell 4	The Latricières from Trapet has long been a mainstay of the domaine – they have owned this -0.76-hectare parcel for nearly 120 years. It is located near the southern end of the appellation on the way to Aux Combottes, to the south of the cooling influence of the Combe Grisard. In 2022, the grapes were partially destemmed before a gentle fermentation on native yeasts to deliver this wine with black plum and cherry aromas and hints of flowers and earth. There is a slightly rustic edge, but the texture is lively enough to ensure a dynamic balance and a lovely, lingering finish.
Hubert Lignier, Vieilles Vignes	Morey-St-Denis (1er Cru)	2022	96	Row 154 - Cell 4	This blended premier cru has always been the chouchou (special favourite) of Laurent Lignier. It is two-thirds of a hectare, blended from Faconnières and Les Cheneverey. The vines were planted beginning in 1936, the youngest—in 1962. It usually gives a wine that is a model of elegance and finesse, and 2022 is no exception, with pronounced aromas of mulberry and cassis touched with violets, liquorice, and cedar. The texture is ethereal and perfumed, yet the finish is astonishingly long. This wine should be accessible relatively early and should drink for twenty years at least.
Louis Jadot	Chambolle-Musigny (1er Cru Les Amoureuses)	2022	96	Row 155 - Cell 4	Jadot's Chambolle Amoureuses is produced from the plot of 0.12 hectares acquired from the Clair-Daü estate in 1985. It is located on the Comblanchien limestone terrace before the climat drops more steeply toward the stream of the Vouge. This cuvée is one of the few where technical director Frédéric Barnier experiments with whole cluster fermentation, leaving one-third of the bunches intact, producing a silky, dense wine with a spicy blackberry fruit aroma and impressive length. This superb wine is built for the long haul, but it should be accessible young as well.
Louis Jadot, Domaine Gagey	Clos St-Denis Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 156 - Cell 4	All the Pinot Noir at Jadot is usually completely destemmed, but here (as in Amoureuses and Bonnes Mares), technical director Frédéric Barnier is experimenting with one-third whole clusters in the tank, which brings the wine interesting depth and length. There are bright blackcurrant and pomegranate aromas with hints of lead pencil and tea. There is no lack of tannin or depth on the palate, yet there is a lovely finesse. The grapes are from a 0.17-hectare parcel in lieu-dit Clos Saint-Denis owned by the Gagey family. It is among the hidden gems of the house.
Louis Jadot	Gevrey-Chambertin (1er Cru Clos St-Jacques)	2022	96	Row 157 - Cell 4	The 2022 vintage is a marvellous return to form for Jadot's Clos Saint-Jacques, typically among the touchstones of this house. The wine is dense and rich with ripe, concentrated, plummy fruit and an edge of dark chocolate. The sensation is ripe but not overly so; the wine is tannic but supple; there is neither astringency nor overconcentration here. The grapes from Jadot's hectare of vines at the centre of the Clos are destemmed and gently extracted before ageing in cask (one-third new). The result is a delicious example of this regal premier cru.
Maison Millemann	Gevrey-Chambertin (1er Cru Champeaux)	2022	96	Row 158 - Cell 4	This lovely wine extends the Millemann range to the premier crus, but it is made with the same attention as the grand crus. The fruit is black plum and mulberry with hints of cigar box, earth, dark chocolate and smoke. There is substantial weight and density here, but the wine always remains light. Millemann has sourced enough fruit for two barrels (both new but with very light toast); this should begin to open in three to five years and will drink well for another 10 to 20 after this.
Maison Millemann	Corton Les Renardes Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 159 - Cell 4	There is charming ripeness to this wine, yet it remains very accessible. Complex aromas of mulberry fruit are coloured with hints of earth, smoke, and leather, and this evocative aroma continues on the palate with a sweetness to the somewhat un-Corton-like fruit. The texture is silky, yet there is an impressive core of density and power. The grapes are from a parcel of mature vines at mid-slope above Aloxe; they are partly destemmed and gently fermented before ageing in new wood.
Millemann	Clos de la Roche Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 160 - Cell 4	The Millemann Clos de la Roche is a robust wine, yet there are some very open raspberry and mulberry aromas with delicate floral notes on the initial attack. The texture is supple yet tannic, and the finish is pleasantly persistent. This wine has none of the rusticity of the 2021 vintage—it is a marvellous wine. The grapes were fermented either as whole clusters or as whole berries, with a gentle extraction of pumping over early and foot-treading at the end before ageing in a new Tronçais cask for 14 months.
Philippe Pacalet	Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 161 - Cell 4	I was delighted to taste Pacalet's lovely Clos de Vougeot in the 2022 vintage (I did not taste it in 2021), with its expressively ripe plummy fruit character and earth, smoke, and leather notes lending a pleasant complexity. The texture is dense and tannic but not heavy or astringent. He rents a quarter-hectare of vines from the southern side of the climat that stretch from the wall along the road to mid-slope. The grapes are carefully sorted and fermented as whole clusters, punching down twice daily. Pacalet avoids using sulfur before bottling, yet this wine retains a delicious purity of fruit.
Alvina Pernot	Meursault (1er Cru Perrières)	2022	96	Row 162 - Cell 4	Although the Perrières from Alvina Pernot takes some time to open, it is a massive wine: nectarine, apricot, and quince aromas open on the palate with time. There are nuances of beeswax and marzipan as the wine opens up. This wine is the most substantial of the Meursaults in the cellar. However, there is a pH of just 3.19, bringing remarkable balance. The wine is delicious, but unfortunately, there is only a single barrel, produced from grapes from Perrières Dessous — worth seeking out.
Bouchard Père & Fils	Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 163 - Cell 4	The Bouchard Corton Charlemagne reflects the vintage in an impressive way—it is a powerful wine, impressively substantial, long and almost fat in the mouth. Yet there is also an elegance and finesse to the wine that brings it into dynamic equilibrium, with aromas of ripe apple, apricot and hazelnuts and accents of hawthorn and hay. The grapes come from the domaine's superb four-hectare holding at the top of the slope, where recent studies with Françoise Vannier confirm 50 – 60 cm of yellow marl and limestone pebbles above the bedrock, explaining the delightful fresh acidity even in a warm year, such as 2022.
Bouchard Père & Fils	Meursault (1er Cru Perrières)	2022	96	Row 164 - Cell 4	The notes of lemon zest, aromas of apricot and white flowers, and the salty mineral edge give complexity to this beautiful expression of Perrières. The wine is concentrated and substantial on the palate, but it has the acidity to ensure it never loses its balance. The grapes are from two parcels – one in Dessus, on the border with Puligny, the other in Dessous, touching the Clos des Perrières. The old Roman quarries bring the minerality that sets this wine apart. The grapes were picked on 1 September, the same day as the Montrachet.
Domaine Albert Grivault	Meursault (1er Cru Perrières)	2022	96	Row 165 - Cell 4	Grivault's monopole Clos des Perrières in 2022 has produced a wine of superb concentration and depth, with rich aromas of ripe apple, peach, and apricots touched with honey and a hint of reduction. The texture is lush and dense, with a finish that lingers in a sultry way on the palate. The vines are younger than the 'regular' Perrières holding. Still, the unique terroir split between sand, silt, and clay gives grapes of excellent ripeness that are pressed as whole clusters (without sulphur) and fermented in cask with minimal bâtonnage to give this nuanced, complex result.
Domaine Albert Grivault	Meursault (1er Cru Clos des Perrières)	2022	96	Row 166 - Cell 4	Grivault’s monopole has produced a wine of superb concentration and depth, with rich aromas of ripe apple, peach and apricots touched with honey and a hint of reduction. The texture is lush and dense, with a finish that lingers sultry on the palate. Split between sand, silt and clay, the unique terroir of the clos gives grapes of extraordinary ripeness, pressed as whole clusters (without sulphur) and fermented in cask with minimal batonnage to give this nuanced, complex result.
Domaine Alvina Pernot	Puligny-Montrachet (1er Cru Peux Bois)	2022	96	Row 167 - Cell 4	Peux Bois is a subdivision of Folatières near the top of the hill, just north of En La Richarde and not far from Chevalier-Montrachet. The Pernot family has 1.5 hectares in total here; Alvina has bottled five barrels under her own label in their elegant, slightly reductive style. The wine boasts evocative lemon peel, nectarine fruit and suggestions of flint and smoke. Although the texture suggests elegance and finesse, the wine is still substantial and broad, and there is excellent ageing potential here.
Domaine Bonneau du Martray	Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 168 - Cell 4	After a tasting of the components of the parcel-by-parcel approach the winery takes, a representative blend leaves no doubt that this will be an epic vintage for Bonneau du Martray. It is a wine of richness and depth, with aromas and flavours ranging from citrus to ripe apple and nectarine, and complex nuances of flint, beeswax, smoke, and hay. The texture is dense but a lively acidity carries the wine to a thrillingly long finish. Ideally one would wait seven to 10 years to open this wine; it will certainly last another 30 beyond that at least.
Domaine Chanson	Corton-Vergennes Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 169 - Cell 4	This delicious white Corton has an almost Montrachet-like richness and depth of flavour, with its aromas of ripe apple, quince, cream and spice. The texture is luxurious, almost decadent, but the balanced acidity and extract carry it to an alluringly long finish. The domaine owns 0.65 hectares down the slope from Le Rognet et Corton in Ladoix that face due east; the grapes are carefully sorted, pressed as whole clusters, and fermented in cask (one-quarter new). This wine should open nicely in five years and will drink well for a further 20.
Domaine des Comtes Lafon	Meursault (1er Cru Les Charmes)	2022	96	Row 170 - Cell 4	This appealing, approachable premier cru boasts a ripe apple fruit with notes of marzipan, butter and smoke. The texture is creamy and dense, and the finish is voluptuously long. Lafon says the acidity was slightly lower than in 2020, yet the wine does not seem heavy. It is produced from 1.7 hectares of vines, mainly in Charmes Dessus, including some vines planted a century ago. The grapes are pressed as whole clusters and fermented mainly in used casks before ageing over two winters.
Domaine Dujac	Morey-St-Denis (1er Cru Monts Luisants)	2022	96	Row 171 - Cell 4	This wine is always among my favourite whites from the Côte de Nuits; 2022 is no exception. There is a lovely freshness, especially considering the vintage – even more than the Pulignys. According to Jeremey Seysses, this is consistently among the wines with the lowest pH (thus highest acidity); this year, 3.05, with an ABV of 13.2% at harvest. Ripe nectarine and apricot aromas, hawthorn flowers, mint, and a saline minerality waft from the glass. The texture is chiselled—compact, lively, fresh, yet still dense and powerful and with impressive length—superb wine; this should improve for years to come.
Domaine Faiveley	Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 172 - Cell 4	The Corton-Charlemagne from Faiveley in 2022 is a wine of superb intensity, with aromas that range from ripe apricot to apple and citrus, with hints of smoke, mineral, and spice. The wine is rich and dense, with a core of lively acidity that brings everything into marvellous balance. The grapes are from three distinct parcels: a portion of their monopole Clos des Cortons, a parcel down the slope from there, and another at the top, underneath the Bois de Corton that contributes to the freshness.
Domaine Francois Carillon	Puligny-Montrachet (1er Cru Les Perrières)	2022	96	Row 173 - Cell 4	This powerful, thrilling wine has ripe green apple and pear aromas and hints of flint, smoke, and spice. A racy acidity, even from the heat of the 2022 vintage, carries the impressively dense extract to an interminable finish. The grapes are from two parcels that François Carillon farms in the centre of Puligny Perrières, north of Boillot's monopole Clos de la Mouchère. They are pressed as whole clusters and fermented in cask (15% new), where they age for a year, followed by a further year in tank.
Domaine Jean Chartron	Puligny-Montrachet (1er Cru Caillerets)	2022	96	Row 174 - Cell 4	The 2022 Clos du Cailleret is a magnificent wine, showing notes of ripe pear and nectarines with a citrus edge and notes of hazelnut and fresh hay. There is a suggestion of saline minerality, although it is less pronounced than in the Folatières. The texture is powerful, with abundant extract yet enough acidity to bring it into vibrant balance to deliver a thrilling wine that makes an argument for Caillerets as among the greatest of the Puligny premier crus. According to Anne-Laure Chartron, 'Folatières is to Bâtard what Cailleret is to Chevalier'.
Domaine Joseph Drouhin	Montrachet Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 175 - Cell 4	Drouhin's Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche is always a classic expression of Montrachet, and often among the best 'bargains' from this site. The 2022 has exotic aromas of ripe peach, nectarine, green apple and hints of acacia flowers, star anise, and beeswax. The texture has the weight of the vineyard and a creamy opulence, yet there is enough freshness to carry the wine to a charmingly persistent finish. The grapes from the Laguiche holdings are from five parcels totalling just over two hectares, picked in three passes by the Drouhin team.
Domaine Lamy-Pillot	Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru Morgeot)	2022	96	Row 176 - Cell 4	The white Morgeot from Lamy-Pillot is blended from three lieux-dits: Petit Clos, which is in the majority; Fairendes, just to the north; and Champs Jeandreau down the slope from La Boudriotte. Interestingly, it seems there is more vivacity than in the white from Clos Saint-Jean. Citrus and ripe pear dominate the aromas with a hint of spice and white flowers. The texture has more freshness and just a hint of reduction. From all indications, this is a wine that should age well.
Domaine Michel Niellon, Clos Truffière	Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru Les Chaumées)	2022	96	Row 177 - Cell 4	This spectacular wine is rich with green apple, nectarine, and lemon peel aromas. The texture is creamy and dense, yet lively with vibrant acidity, bringing the wine balance and drawing it to a lovely finish. The grapes are from the half-hectare near the top of the slope on the border with St-Aubin. Some of the vines here are more than a century old. Lucie Coutoux remarks that it is a beautiful terroir, but it can be complicated to work. The soils are rocky, and without rain, maturation will cease, yet in 2022, it has produced marvellous results.
Domaine Paul Pillot	Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru Caillerets)	2022	96	Row 178 - Cell 4	During my visit to Pillot, the Caillerets was still in cask, but already showing lush, lemony fruit aromas adorned with glimmers of flint, acacia flowers and smoky reduction. The texture deftly balances rapier-fine acidity and considerable density, drawing to an amazingly long finish – this is a superb wine. The grapes are from 0.40 hectares of 60-year-old vines at the top of the Caillerets slope; they are crushed, gently pressed, and fermented in large casks (10% new) before ageing.
Domaine Simon Colin, Clos St-Abdon	Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru Les Chaumées)	2022	96	Row 179 - Cell 4	The Chaumées Clos Saint-Abdon is a hugely impressive wine. It is shared between Simon Colin and his father; Simon has three parcels totalling 0.35 hectares of old vines. In 2022, the wine boasts ripe nectarine and mandarin aromas with a hint of beeswax and hay. The texture is lively and bright, but the old vines also give a wine of solid density. The ultimate effect is one of understated elegance. The grapes are gently crushed and fermented on native yeasts in 350-litre casks (one-third new).
Guffens-Heynen, Juliette et les Vieilles de Chavigny	Mâconnais (Mâcon-Pierreclos)	2022	96	Row 180 - Cell 4	This riveting wine boasts aromas of Williams pear and quince with accents of lemon zest, ginger and hay. The texture is concentrated, almost tannic, and long, but balanced by an astonishing freshness. The grapes come from two parcels of low-yielding vines (one very old, one planted in 2003) at the top of the slope. The wine is not made every year, but when it is it's fermented in cask (almost 40% new) and gives one of the most distinctive wines of the Mâconnais.
Guffens-Heynen, Premiers Jus des Hautes des Vignes	Mâconnais (Pouilly-Fuissé)	2022	96	Row 181 - Cell 4	The Pouilly-Fuissé Premiers Jus des Hauts des Vignes is among the finest whites of Burgundy, with its smoky reductive notes and a salty tang, and exotic fruit aromas that roll out of the glass – mandarin and grapefruit, quince and nectarine. The cask ageing has a noticeable influence, but this is a wine built to last. It comes from low-yielding, old vines from the lieux-dits La Roche, Les Crays, and Les Croux – too high on the slope to be classed as premiers crus, yet in a hot vintage such as 2022, they deliver a swoon-worthy wine that will last for decades.
Henri Boillot	Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 182 - Cell 4	Powerful, dense, and supple, the Corton Charlemagne from Boillot is an impressive wine with aromas of ripe apple, quince and apricot, floral notes, and butter. The grapes are sourced from parcels in Aloxe and Pernand; Boillot purchases the fruit as grapes, and his team does the harvest and the pressing. The result is classic Corton-Charlemagne in style that will open properly in three to five years and should age for 20 beyond that.
Lamy-Caillat	Chassagne-Montrachet	2022	96	Row 183 - Cell 4	The village-level Chassagne from Lamy-Caillat comes from one of Sébastien's favourite village vineyards – Pot Bois, located at the top of the Caillerets slope at 300 feet elevation (although this does not appear on the label). This lofty site, protected by the wood, is among the coldest in the village, according to Caillat. In 2022, it has given a wine with lemon peel and pomelo aromas and pronounced notes of acacia flower and spice. The texture is nervy and delicate, but enough substance is here to make this eminently ageable.
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey	Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 184 - Cell 4	This exquisite version of Corton Charlemagne boasts quince and grapefruit aromas adorned with hints of acacia flowers, butter, and spice. The texture is full-bodied and rich but not heavy, with a freshness and concentration that lift it to the next level. The grapes are sourced from two parcels on the hill of Corton: one site in En Charlemagne facing west (for freshness), and one in Languettes facing south (for richness). Colin opines that the Charlemagne vines are much better than 30 years ago. He tries to pick both at the same time for balance.
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey	Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru	2022	96	Row 185 - Cell 4	Opulent and lush, the Bâtard from Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey has an almost honeyed cast to the ripe apple and apricot fruit, with hints of acacia flowers and exotic spice. Out of cask, the oak still has significant influence, but this will fade with time. The texture is dense and concentrated – Colin relates that the level of acidity is equivalent to 2020 but that he feels the wine is more focused, reminding him of 2015 but with more freshness. 'Even if you try to make them for the future they are showing quite open right now'.
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey	Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru Caillerets)	2022	96	Row 186 - Cell 4	The Caillerets is often among my favourite premier crus in this cellar, and 2022 is no exception, with its expressive lemon peel and green apple fruit aromas and hints of acacia flowers, flint and spice. The texture is lively, with great tension despite the heat of the year and enough extract to ensure a lingering finish. The grapes are from the 0.17-hectare domaine parcel at the top of the slope. The thin soil just covering the limestone gives a firm mineral underpinning to this wine that sets it apart from the other climats.

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Burgundy 2022 score table: Top red wines

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