Recent vintages may be extortionate, but STEVEN SPURRIER has unearthed some good-value, mature claret alternatives, to drink now. After all, the credit crunch doesn’t mean we have to lower our standards…
When I joined the wine trade in 1964, I was told that one should drink Right Bank claret from seven years old and Left Bank claret from 10, the quality reference being cru bourgeois and above. Today, quality has benefited from investments in both the vineyards and the cellars, grapes are picked fully ripe, tannins can be controlled and the style of claret has become rounder and more supple. As a result, the wines can be drunk earlier, on the fruit, as the French themselves have always preferred. Yet one still has to wait for them to mature properly if vineyard and château expression is what you seek. And, of course, the wines are more expensive. Many claret lovers buy early and wait for the wine to develop, often opening the first bottle a bit too early and the last a bit too late. Forward wines like St- Emilion and light vintages such as 2002 can be drunk earlier; tougher wines like Pauillac and tannic vintages like 1996 need more time.
The good news, though, is that, in the aftermath of recent price hikes, for those with an empty cellar who are looking for a mature claret today, surprisingly good value can be found. Claret has always been the object of speculation, the merchants organising the market thus, but there is a great difference
between value for speculation (the first growths and super-seconds) and value for drinking (lesser crus classés, crus bourgeois and their Right Bank equivalents).
I’ve been leafing through UK merchants’ choose five underrated vintages, and five good value wines from each, drinking well now. From the 1990s, 1992 is best forgotten; 1993 and 1994 were rainy vintages with little future now; 1995 was a big, burly vintage with very little still around; 1997, fruity but weak, is already fading. Of the 2000s, 2000, 2003 and 2004 still need more time.
So here are my picks… 1996
This was a great vintage for the Left Bank, for it was a classic year for Cabernet that ripened perfectly during the exceptionally sunny October, yet retained firm tannins that are only now beginning to soften. Right Bank Merlot was ripe but tight, with an atypical leanness avoided only by the better châteaux. The Lafite Cabernet was so good that it represented 84% of the grand vin, with only 8% Merlot. Until 2005, 1996 was the year when I could hardly stop buying. In their second decade they are classically enjoyable.
Château Potensac, Cru Bourgeois, Médoc
The only Médoc, with four St-Estèphes, two Margaux and two Moulis, to be classified cru bourgeois exceptionnel in the now defunct 2003 reclassification. Firmness rather than fireworks. 2008–2012. £20.25; L&W
Ch Camensac, 5ème Cru Classé, Haut-Médoc Seldom highly rated among its fellows from 1855, Camensac makes good solid wines from its 60ha (hectares) that were
mostly replanted in 1965. 2008–2014. £19.99; Maj
Ch Les Ormes de Pez, Cru Bourgeois, St-Estèphe
This wine opens up early but keeps
superbly, guaranteeing satisfaction over a
long period. Quite meaty, but quite elegant.
2008–2015. £300/case of 12 (IB); BdI
Ch Meyney, Cru Bourgeois, St-Estèphe
Concentrated and plummy, with the
typical spice and leatheriness of St-
Estèphe. Robust, satisfying, and quite
classy. 2008–2016. £29.95; L&S
Ch Langoa-Barton, 3ème Cru Classé,
St-Julien
The ‘younger brother’ to Leoville Barton is
increasingly impressive. At 10 to 12 years
it is delicious, but in great vintages it can
last much longer. 2008–2020. £49; BBR
1998
This vintage was the reverse of 1996: superb for the Merlot on the Right Bank,
due to a particularly hot and dry August; less good for the later-ripening Cabernets on the Left Bank, which were disrupted by September rains. After the en primeur follies over the previous year, spurred on by an unsubstantiated demand from Asia, prices fell back a bit, but it was obvious from the early tastings that the Merlots were quite remarkable, and demand quickly outstripped supply. The Graves were a little green overall, but the Médocs have been unfairly overlooked. Ch Fontenil, Fronsac The home of Michel and Dany Rolland, bought in the 1980s and now (not surprisingly) producing one of the best
Fronsacs; perhaps the most underrated appellation in Bordeaux, with the exception of Cerons. Plummy Rolland style, but with Fronsac’s firmness. 2008–2012. £25; L&W Ch Hortevie, Cru Bourgeois, St-Julien With the exception of Gloria, this is the best of the non-classé châteaux in St-Julien (my 1978 is still holding up well), producing ripe, quite solid wines with good character, making it a regular on
The Wine Society’s list. 2008–2014.
£14.50; WSo (limited stock)
Ch de Lamarque, Cru Bourgeois,
Haut-Médoc
At this historic castle with vineyards on
the right-hand side of the D2 route des
châteaux between Margaux and St-Julien,
the Gromond d’Evry have been producing
classic, quite robust Médocs with polish
and breed. 2008–2012. £15.99; C&B
Ch Labégorce Zédé Cru Bourgeois
Margaux
One of only two Margaux crus bourgeois
to be raised to exceptionnel status in the
2003 reclassification, due to sterling
efforts by the Thienpont family, this is
one of the most classic, elegant and
restrained of Margaux, with a depth of
fruit that continues to show freshness
even in maturity. 2008–2013. £18; WSo
Ch Gruaud-Larose, 2ème Cru Classé,
St-Julien
Running just behind Ducru-Beaucaillou
and the three Léovilles, this large property
occupies a single block of 78ha of vines set
well back from the Gironde. The rich and
spicy wines will drink young but also age
superbly. 2008–2018. £38.95; Whb
1999
The unfavourable climatic conditions of this early, large harvest meant work in the vines played a predominant role in quality. The wines showed charm but also a lack of concentration and depth, and often, by trying too hard, a lack of balance. Violent hailstorms damaged the St-Emilion ‘Côtes’ on 5 September. Overall, a modest year with goodish fruit, actually the fifth best year of the decade, with the advantage that most wines are ready to drink, and have a little more stuffing than the 1997s.
Ch Lagrange, Pomerol
Often understated but always elegant,
from very good soil on the Pomerol
plateau. Firm when young, with more
grip than flesh. Not for the long term.
2008–2012. £161.76/case of 12 (IB); BWI
Ch de Fieuzal, Grand Cru Classé,
Pessac-Léognan
After making rather overoaked, overrich
wines in the early 1990s, de Fieuzal had
calmed down by the end of the decade
but retained tobacco and spice elements.
Nice balance. 2008–2012. £31.14; RSW
Ch Duhart-Milon, 4ème Cru Classé, Pauillac
Purchased by the Lafite Rothschilds in
1964, this, along with Pontet-Canet and
Grand-Puy-Lacoste, is my favourite
among the affordable northern Pauillacs.
Classic, with Cabernet-driven elegance.
2008–2015. £380/case of 12 (IB); J&B
Ch Giscours, 3ème Cru Classé, Margaux
Always one of the stars of the vintage, in
1999 Giscours confirmed the position it
had held in the Médoc in the early 1970s,
but with a fruitier, more approachable
style. A really lovely wine, typically
Margaux. 2008–2012. £40; Maj
Ch Calon-Ségur, 3ème Cru Classé, St-Estèphe
The most northern of the five St-Estèphe
classed growths, whose single-block
vineyards on a gravelly, chalky soil bring
lightness to the commune’s more meaty
style. Fine depth of fruit. Very polished.
2008–2015. £29.90; Tan (limited stock)
2001
Described by David Peppercorn in July’s Decanter as ‘more approachable than 2000, with added elegance’ and awarded a similar five-star rating, 2001 is now attracting the attention it was denied on release. A very wet winter and spring were followed by high temperatures from May to August, but also high levels of humidity. Rain in September made it difficult to choose a date for the harvest, but an Indian summer during October played into the hands of the Médoc. (It also created one of the greatest Sauternes vintages of recent times.) Many châteaux on the Left Bank felt that their 2001 equalled their more robust 2000. This is a claret lover’s vintage that, alongside 2004, represents the best value for money at the moment.
Ch Paloumey, Cru Bourgeois A recent star in the southern Médoc, this wine is supple and fruity, with attractive polished depth that shows early but lasts well. 2008–2010. £16.99; ScC
Ch Haut-Chaigneau, Lalande-de-Pomerol
This wine is consistently excellent. Round
and complete, black-fruit expression, with
a high level of oak. Good tannins, long
finish. 2008–2014. £14.95; L&S
Ch de La Dauphine, Fronsac
The current owners are determined to lift
Fronsac back to the level it knew in the
early 19th century. With 2001, they
succeeded. 2008–2012. £15.82; F&R
Ch Batailley, 5ème Cru Classé, Pauillac
This classic, robust, reliable Pauillac
provides excellent drinking and very good
value for money. 2008–2015. £20; WSo
Ch La Tour Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan
A vineyard on the La Mission estate
opposite (and under the same ownership
as) Haut-Brion. Sturdy, robust and earthy,
but repays keeping. From 2006 the vines
have been made over to La Mission.
2008–2016. £240/case of 12 (IB); BWI
2002
The forgotten vintage of the decade, saved from rain at the 11th hour, but totally overshadowed by every other vintage since 2000. Difficult on the Right Bank due to rain, only a little better on the Left Bank, but modern winemaking techniques (and money) saved the day. Pleasantly fruity wines for the medium term.
Ch Caronne-Ste-Gemme, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Médoc From St-Laurent du Médoc, this wine has improved strongly under the watchful eyes of the Nony family. Good solid wine with class and charm. 2008–2010. £12.99; Maj
Ch Peyrabon, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Médoc
A fine cru bourgeois whose vines at St-
Saveur are inland from Pauillac. As Berry
Bros says, ‘delicious with the Sunday
roast’. 2008–2010. £120/case of 12; Mls
La Dame de Montrose, St-Estèphe
The second wine from Montrose, whose
powerful blackberry-fruit flavours and
slight pepperiness give it immediate
appeal, but it has enough tannin to age
further. 2008–2012. £20; Jer
Ch Grand-Puy-Lacoste, 5ème Cru Classé,
Pauillac
Along with Lynch-Bages, GPL is the
outstanding 5th growth of Pauillac –
Michael Broadbent never misses a vintage.
True vineyard depth and character.
2008–2015. £216/case of 12 (IB); BWI
Domaine de Chevalier, Grand Cru Classé,
Pessac-Léognan
The vines at Chevalier are now more than
15 years old, and the dedication to quality
is shining through. Beautifully balanced.
2008–2015. £220/case of 12 (IB); Far
The hype surrounding the 2005 vintage, and the dismaying escalation in prices for its wines, should not lead Bordeaux lovers to despair. No doubt 2005 is a great vintage across the board, but it is not three or four times as good as some previous vintages, even if its prices could lead you to that conclusion. Because Bordeaux is, and has always been, a wine of speculation, many of its wines are traded rather than drunk. And because production volumes are high (with certain exceptions such as Ausone and Pétrus) even the first growths are not exactly rare. So a conscientious scanning of merchants’ lists and online trading sites will reveal a variety of good, often great, wines at affordable prices. Value is found in good vintages that are overshadowed by more celebrated years: thus 2001 is undervalued because it came after the splendid 2000s, and 2004 came after the (largely unwarranted) 2003 price hikes. Good-value Bordeaux, such as the leading crus bourgeois, remain good value in 2005, though it can be tempting to buy a mature vintage at roughly the same price as a new vintage in need of cellaring. Similarly, wines from outlying and less-fashionable regions – such as Blaye, Bourg, Fronsac and the Côtes de Castillon – are stable in price. Moreover their ageing potential can be limited, so there is less point in buying older vintages. The wines below are in order of vintage, with the 2005 vintage price in brackets.
Ch Rauzan-Ségla 1996, 2ème Cru Classé,
Margaux The estate ranked immediately after Ch
Margaux in 1855. Impressive from the
outset, with a classic cedary aroma and
firm tannins that will keep it going for
years to come. £47.99; Odd (2005=£75)
Ch Mouton Rothschild 1996, 1er Cru
Classé, Pauillac
Mouton’s record is a bit patchier than
most first growths, but the 1996 is
fabulous. Flamboyant nose, with blackcurrants, oak, coffee and a light
balsamic character. Much the same on
the palate, which exudes blackcurranty
fruit and has a long, swaggering finish.
£270.25; N&P (£600)
Chateau d’Yquem 1997, 1er Cru
Supérieur, Sauternes
A wonderful Sauternes vintage, and Yquem,
as usual, is its greatest representative.
Accessible now, but will keep for three
decades more. £215; Cam (£425)
Ch Léoville-Las-Cases 1998, 2ème Cru
Classé, St-Julien
A tricky Médoc vintage, but Las-Cases
sailed through. Lots of new oak, sweet
tannins, great persistence. Can only
improve. £65.40; MFW (£230)
Ch La Mission Haut-Brion 1998, Graves
The fragrant cedary nose is beginning to
show some maturity. The tannins seem
well integrated; fruit is to the fore. Spicy
and very persistent. Approachable, but
will live for decades. £152.75; PWy (£550)
Ch Climens 1999, 1er Cru, Sauternes
A fine year for Sauternes, and none is
more elegant than Climens. Stone-fruit
aromas; lean, persistent palate, with fine
acidity and lift. Approachable now, but
will improve. £46.55; W&C (£75)
Ch Suduiraut 1999, 1er Cru, Sauternes
Another great Sauternes, but in a different
style from Climens. More overt lushness, a
silky texture, and delicious apricot and
mandarin flavours. £29.50; W&C (£48)
Ch Canon-La Gaffelière 1999, Grand Cru
Classé, St-Emilion
A good dose of Cabernet Franc gives this
St-Emilion an elegance that is balanced
by the luscious fruit. This wine doesn’t
lack stuffing and grip. £36.02; MFW (£52)
Ch Léoville-Las-Cases 1999, 2ème Cru
Classé, St-Julien
One of the wines of the vintage: oaky
aromas, velvety texture, spice and vigour,
and a lot of grip to ensure many years of
pleasure ahead. £67.35; MFW (£230)
Ch Pontet-Canet 1999, 5ème Cru Classé,
Pauillac
This spicy, vigorous, assertive wine is
tannic but not harsh, immensely fruity
and persistent. Rises above the norm for
the vintage. £26.67; Mls (£85)
Chapelle d’Ausone 2000, St-Emilion
The second wine of Ausone is often better
than many wines from top properties
nearby. Expensive, but as close as most of
us will come to the grand vin. Succulent
and elegant. £148.59; F&R (£207.34)
Domaine de Chevalier 2000, Graves
Warm, ripe, fleshy aromas and a whiff of
smoke, as well as cherry fruit. Already
supple and drinking well, but there’s spice
and a taut structure, too. £43.50; Wsp (£52)
Ch Bourgneuf Vayron 2001, Pomerol
Fine Pomerol is hard to find at affordable
prices, but this is an exception. The 2001
has been improving in bottle, showing
spice and complexity. £23; WSo (£28.53)
Clos de l’Oratoire 2001, Grand Cru Classé,
St-Emilion
From the same stable as Canon-La
Gaffelière, this voluptuous, super-ripe wine
is drinking well now. £29.95; Imb (£30)
Ch Langoa Barton 2001, 3ème Cru Classé,
St-Julien
A delightful medium-bodied claret, with
perfumed cherry aromas, delicacy and
structure on the palate and good length.
£30.15; L&W (£46.95)
Ch Troplong Mondot 2001, Grand Cru
Classé, St-Emilion
One whiff is sufficient: glorious aromas
of black cherries, toasty new oak and
truffles. This wine, with its opulence and
sensuality, shows why Troplong deserved
promotion to premier grand cru in 2006.
£46.41; Ply (£200)
Ch Brane-Cantenac 2002, 2ème Cru
Classé, Margaux
After many years in the doldrums, by
2002, this property was back on form.
Pure blackcurranty aromas, supple and
medium-bodied on the palate and a long
elegant finish. £25; Mls (£52)
Ch Gazin 2004, Pomerol
This has intense aromas of raspberries
and cherries, and a palate with
considerable power and heft. It may lack
some length, but it will provide admirable
medium-term drinking. £25.21; C&B (£45)
Ch Léoville Barton 2004, 2ème Cru Classé,
St-Julien
Classic St-Julien, with blackcurrant and
black-cherry aromas, and a palate of
succulent plump fruit. Cellar for a few
years. £43.82; BdI (£95)
Ch Pavie Macquin 2004, Grand Cru
Classé, St-Emilion
This is not for the faint-hearted: it has a
good deal of tannin, power and alcohol.
£30.12; BdI (£125)
Ch Pontet-Canet 2004, 5ème Cru Classé,
Pauillac
This superstar of Decanter blind tastings
is rich, dramatic, highly concentrated and
built to last. £39.50; BBR (£85)
Ch Rausan-Ségla 2004, 2ème Cru Classé,
Margaux
Opulent black fruits and oak on the nose;
powerful and concentrated palate, with
spice and freshness. Needs further
cellaring. £28.33; Mls (£75).
Written by Steven Spurrier
