Vintage Report: Barolo 2009

Tom Maresca was roundly disappointed by this 2009 tasting, citing the winemakers' failure to address how difficult the vintage was as one reason for this 'dismal' showing.

‘Few 2009s justified optimism about their longevity, and most producers spoke of 2009 as a vintage for near-term drinking’

Of course there were exceptions: several producers – Giacomo Fenocchio, Aldo Conterno, Prunotto, for some – turned out quite drinkable Barolo. A few – notably Pio Cesare and Massolino-Vigna Rionda – even have faith in their wine’s ageing potential. That opinion was frequently echoed by merchants and buyers, who tasted a selection of these wines a week earlier than journalists, and with the producers (not blind). But to my palate – and in the opinion of many journalists I spoke to – most Barolo-makers seem to have severely underestimated the difficulty of this vintage. Few 2009s justified optimism about their longevity, and most producers spoke of 2009 as a vintage for near-term drinking.

Giacomo Conterno, of the Aldo Conterno winery in the commune of Monforte, was one of the more outspoken producers. He said: ‘2009 was a winegrower’s vintage. At the end of August, some [Nebbiolo] vines were already almost ripe, and some were completely unripe – almost 30 days’ difference between them. What you did about that determined what kind of wine you made.’ The usually upbeat Consorzio assessment of the harvest this year is very guarded:

Most Barolo lovers will recognise that a comparison to the very hot 2003 vintage is hardly flattering and should be a red flag. But the Consorzio report continues in an even more monitory vein: ‘Wherever vineyard management and planting decisions were shown to be correct, the quality of the product proved to be higher. This is supported by analytical data bearing out the fact that the use of appropriate, timely vineyard management techniques suited to the vineyard catered for higher quality production, underlining and increasing the difference compared to vineyard management plans which failed to take into consideration the influence of the climate and the development of the vine.’

Accordingly, the watchword for 2009 Barolo must be caveat emptor. If you can, taste before buying. And don’t expect these Barolos to last long in any case. This is a ‘restaurant vintage’ – more or less accessible early, with a relatively short drinking window. I estimate that most 2009 Barolos will be drinking at their best or near it by 2015 and will continue to be good for, at most, five further years.

Every year, Barolo producers assure journalists that they are steadily cutting their use of barriques. In 2009, they seem to have rushed back to them. Wine after wine – especially from the usually reliable commune of La Morra – smelled like espresso and tasted of toasted wood. Lovers of the international style will revel in these wines. Those who relish classic Nebbiolo flavours will hate them.

More than one journalist remarked to me that the 2009 Barolos called into question the integrity or validity of the whole DOC/DOCG system: how can wines that show almost no Nebbiolo character qualify for the Barolo appellation? That’s a question Barolo-makers are going to have to confront immediately if they hope to retain the confidence of consumers and the price levels they command. Piedmont has largely been spared the years of controversy that have roiled, for instance, the Brunello zone, because the producers have assiduously cultivated a reputation for unsullied integrity and consistent pursuit of the highest quality. The 2009 chips away at that reputation. It’s up to the producers to repair that lapse. Vintage 2010 should help: all the winemakers I spoke to were almost exultant about the quality of their 2010. I certainly hope they’re right.

Michael Franz, editor of Wine Review Online: ‘The 2009 Barolos are maddeningly inconsistent. They include some indisputable successes, but also many wines with overly ripe, stewed-fruit characters and a lack of freshening acidity. The most distressing disappointments are actually marred both by stewed fruit and green tannins, pointing to the challenge of achieving balanced and uniform ripeness in a warming climate marked by heat spikes late in the growing season.’

Here is the Consorzio’s verdict on the growing season: ‘Nebbiolo was able to enjoy fine weather throughout the month of September, offsetting the slight delay in the ripening of the grapes due to the wet weather between July and August. Ripening checks showed that the sugars continued to accumulate during the second half of the month, while the acid profile gradually dropped to very acceptable levels. Ripening of the phenolic components which are essential for ensuring body and ageing capacity has been excellent. Without question, Nebbiolo has responded sublimely this year… this will prove to be an excellent vintage for the Nebbiolo denominations.’

In the communes of Barbaresco and Treiso, producers were able to achieve classic wines, with the poise and balance of traditional Barbaresco and the luscious, accessible fruit of modern vintages. My tasting notes remark again and again about classic aromas of black cherry, road tar and dried roses, about lovely fruit and perfect acidity on the palate, with tannins that are already softening, and perfectly pitched leather and tobacco finishes.

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Tom Maresca is a wine journalist and author with 30 years of experience. He has written two books on wine, Mastering Wine, which one the first-ever Clicquot Prize for Wine Book of the Year, and The Right Wine. Aside from Decanter, he is a contributor to the Quarterly Review of Wines. He collaborated with his wife, Diane Darrow, to write two books Italian food and wine, La Tavola Italiana and The Seasons of the Italian Kitchen and an ebook Not The Same Old Spaghetti Sauce.