California Syrah: top Mendocino County wines
Mendocino County might be best known for its Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, but it also has some of California's most prime Syrah vineyards, producing savoury, earthy and focused wines. Matthew Luczy selects seven of the best examples from a recent tasting.

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COMING SOON: Individual AVA analysis and top California Syrah from:
Napa County & Sierra Foothills, Santa Barbara County, Monterey County, Paso Robles & San Luis Obispo
As is common with now-classic California wine regions, Mendocino County was once thought too cold to successfully ripen grapes.
This tucked-away area began making its name in the 1980s with sparkling wine, and is now a top source of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. But, as growers have increasingly learned, where those cool-climate grapes thrive so will Syrah.
Scroll down for Matthew Luczy’s top-scoring Mendocino County Syrahs
Mendocino County Syrahs tend to be more savoury, oily and wild than those of Sonoma County, while an earthy, woodland-like quality threads through both regions. In many wines labelled as North Coast, top sites from both areas are combined, emphasising their connective tissue.
The Yorkville Highlands AVA is of particular note. The Halcon and Hawks Butte vineyards – just a stone’s throw apart at more than 600m altitude – turn out wonderfully gamey, spicy and umami-laden wines with supple textures.
Scott Schultz of Jolie-Laide makes one of California’s most dazzling Syrahs from Halcon, as does his mentor Pax Mahle for the Wilde Farm label. Ryan Zepaltas of Copain sources across multiple Yorkville Highlands sites for his Les Voisins blend.
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Drew Family Wines makes charming examples from the Valenti Ranch and Perli vineyards farther west and at lower elevations in the Mendocino Ridge AVA. These sites exchange the meatiness found in the Yorkville Highlands for a clean, focused lift.
Matthew Luczy’s top Mendocino County Syrahs
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Jolie-Laide, Halcon Vineyard Syrah, Mendocino County, Yorkville Highlands, California, USA, 2018

At 760m, the Halcon Vineyard consistency turns out some of the most complex Syrah on the North Coast. Boasting 100% whole-cluster fermentation, this has a...
2018
CaliforniaUSA
Jolie-LaideMendocino County
Drew Family Cellars, Valenti Ranch Syrah, Mendocino County, Mendocino Ridge, California, USA, 2018

The more savoury and pepper-driven of the Drew Syrahs, this showcases the elegantly animalistic heights that Mendocino County can achieve. The palate is fine, precise...
2018
CaliforniaUSA
Drew Family CellarsMendocino County
Copain, Hawks Butte Syrah, Mendocino County, Yorkville Highlands, California, USA, 2017

The Hawks Butte vineyard consistently delivers savoury, elegant and complex wines – this being no exception. Ocean influences meet woodsy, forest notes on the nose....
2017
CaliforniaUSA
CopainMendocino County
Drew Family Cellars, Perli Vineyard Syrah, Mendocino County, Mendocino Ridge, California, USA, 2018

Floral and meaty on the nose, with a lift of lavender, cassis, rose petals and iodine. A lively and energetic palate leads to a zesty,...
2018
CaliforniaUSA
Drew Family CellarsMendocino County
Wilde Farm, Halcon Vineyard Syrah, Mendocino County, Yorkville Highlands, California, USA, 2017

Winemaker Pax Mahle coaxes out all the savoury texture from this vineyard, using 100% whole cluster fruit. Wild and gamey aromas of cured meat, black...
2017
CaliforniaUSA
Wilde FarmMendocino County
Copain, Baker Ranch Syrah, Mendocino County, Anderson Valley, California, USA, 2017

Initially muted aromas, so give it time in the glass. The palate is reminiscent of a barbecue with charred earthy mesquite wood notes and grilled...
2017
CaliforniaUSA
CopainMendocino County
Copain, Les Voisins Syrah, Mendocino County, Yorkville Highlands, California, USA, 2017

Subtle on the nose at first, then aromas of seaweed, clay and parsley. The palate balances plush richness and sappy intensity through to an expansive,...
2017
CaliforniaUSA
CopainMendocino County

Matthew Luczy is a freelance sommelier based in Los Angeles, and regularly contributes on California wines for Decanter.