Catalonian whites: Panel tasting results

Luis Gamiz, Andrew Johnson and Pierre Mansour tasted 174 wines, with 7 Outstanding and 69 Highly recommended

Catalonian whites: Panel tasting scores

174 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 7

Highly recommended 69

Recommended 89

Commended 9

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release still, dry white wines from any DO or DOCa in Catalonia. Wines without a Geographical Indication (Vino de España) were considered if produced in Catalonia with grapes grown in Catalonia

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from the Catalonian whites panel tasting

A walk on the white side

Our ambition for this comprehensive tasting, covering all of Catalonia’s DOs and IGPs, was to highlight a different side to a region better known for its reds.

Alongside DOs where white wines are indeed the specialism and focus (Penedès, Alella, Pla de Bages), there was also a strong showing from counterparts where reds reign (Priorat, Montsant, Terra Alta and the like).

‘The whites from Montsant were a real surprise,’ said Pierre Mansour. ‘As a buyer it made me look at the region differently. It is producing world-class whites that consumers should explore.’

Unsurprisingly, entries were heavy on wines from Penedès, but the top-scoring line-up reflects the diversity and quality found across Catalonia.

For Luis Gámiz, the tasting showed ‘a region where the [white] category is rapidly developing, with producers making interesting “new old styles”’ by exploring local varieties and terroir diversity. ‘The DOs are all levelling up,’ he concluded.

Andrew Johnson agreed: ‘It was nice to see a good spread at the top. It shows that there’s innovation and ambition in smaller DOs, such as Pla de Bages, which people might not expect to see next to Penedès, Montsant or Priorat [at the top of the table].’

Native varieties to the fore

The baseline quality and value were also important takeaways. ‘We would at times have liked to see a bit more character and difference,’ said Johnson. ‘But there’s great consistency. We tasted so many wines that people would buy today, and go back for the following week.’

Mansour stressed the ‘strong individuality of the best wines, particularly those produced with local varieties’. He was particularly taken by the Macabeus, Garnacha Blancas and some of the Xarel·los – ‘Real standouts for me,’ he said.

While these grapes were dominant, Forcada, Malvasia de Sitges, Pansa Blanca, Parellada and Picapoll also featured – an indigenous viticultural wealth being newly appreciated and reinterpreted by producers across Catalonia.

Overall the tasting showed that, as Johnson put it, ‘Catalonian whites are in very good shape’. ‘There’s so much for consumers to discover,’ Gámiz concurred. The outcome of this tasting challenges us all to seek them out.

What to eat with Catalonian whites, by Fiona Beckett

Reading the report of this tasting made me wonder why we don’t drink Catalonian whites more often – they have so much to offer at the table. 

There are variations of course, but in general there’s a weighty character to the wines, especially the Garnacha Blanca, which makes them white wines that can do duty for a red. 

Given we’re in Spain, pork would be an obvious starting point. That said, it’s an area where there’s a lot of seafood, so do think about fish and shellfish, especially wood-roasted or cooked over coals: whole fish such as turbot cooked in a wood-fired oven, big juicy gambas, seared squid and grilled razor clams would all go brilliantly, as would a big hearty seafood stew or mar y montana (‘sea and mountain’) dishes, which combine meat and seafood, such as chicken with langoustines. 

This type of wine is also great with typical Spanish rice dishes: not so much paella – or what passes for paella – but richer dishes such as lobster rice or arroz negro (black rice), again with seafood.

Click here for more Catalonian white wines that have featured in Decanter panel tastings

Catalonian whites panel tasting results

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Luis Gamiz is business and product development manager and Spanish wine buyer at Indigo Wine. He has extensive experience in the wine industry, having previously held positions at Alliance Wine, The Knotted Vine and Vinoteca

Andrew Johnson is managing director of wine merchant WoodWinters and also heads his own project Veiled Vineyards, which aims to unearth ‘hidden’ wines that might otherwise have missed out on reaching the market

Pierre Mansour is director of wine at The Wine Society, having bought the Society’s Spanish wines for nearly 20 years. He is a member of Spain’s Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino, and a DWWA joint Regional Chair for Spain

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