Finger Lakes red wines: best new releases

Paradoxically in a region so devoted to white wine and sparkling wine production, it seems that red wine is generating intense interest among winemakers.

Fred Merwath, winemaker and co-owner of iconic producer Hermann J. Wiemer, comments: ‘We can make some really interesting red wines in the Finger Lakes with tension and finesse. Our climate allows for ample hang time and flavour development without soaring potential alcohol levels.’

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 10 Finger Lakes red wines

PLUS see recommendations for Finger Lakes white and sparkling & sweet wines

He explains that his future plantings for specific vineyards will be red wine focused, including the established varietals Cabernet Franc and Blaufränkisch, along with the possible additions of Lagrein or Schioppettino.

Including varieties from Austria and the Alto Adige also makes sense with the cold climate in the Finger Lakes. Plantings of Blaufränkisch, while still small, are more and more common.

Other cold-hardy varieties are also being planted, including Saperavi. Traditional to the Republic of Georgia, this black grape is very well suited to the Finger Lakes. Not only does it tolerate the climate reasonably well, but it is a tenturier – a grape variety whose pulp and juice are also red.

This property gives deep colour without extended maceration. Dr Konstantin Frank was the first to plant Saperavi. Still, Merwath is expanding his holdings at Wiemer’s sister property Standing Stone: ‘Our future plantings at Standing Stone are all focused on sparkling production, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Saperavi.’

Recent vintages in the Finger Lakes

2021 Dry and sunny weather kicked off the growing season in the Finger Lakes. After flowering, however, the region saw much more rainfall than average, leading to fungal disease and difficult ripening. Although the rain let up in September, most growers picked in the rain, making this among the most challenging of recent vintages.

2020 The season began with cooler-than-normal temperatures in April and May, and there was some vine damage by frost in early May. After flowering, however, temperatures were warmer, and the weather was notably dry. Drought conditions helped the grapes to ripen to exceptional levels, and yet levels of acidity and alcohol were close to normal—a very successful vintage.

2019 Cooler weather early in the season led to a classic vintage for white wines in 2019. The lower temperatures delivered crisp acidity, yet July and September were very sunny, producing healthy grapes and good ripeness to the structured fruit. A terrific year for white wine.

2018 Warm, wet weather was the general rule for 2018 and intensified throughout the season. While conditions during the early season were close to normal, the weather became increasingly warm and wet from veraison’s end, increasing the botrytis threat—a challenging year with a small crop.

2017 Flowering was warm and wet, but July and August were drier and cooler than average. The sun returned in September and most of October to deliver a good-sized, ripe crop with crisp acidity levels and balance. A good year for both red and white.

2016 This was a warm and very dry vintage producing concentrated fruit; the yield was 10 – 20% lower than usual. The heat produced a moderate crop of healthy grapes with excellent ripeness and slightly lower-than-average acidity. A good year, particularly for red wines.

Winemakers are working to find the grapes and wine styles that work best for the reds.

Ian Barry, a winemaker at Six Eighty Cellars who also has his label Barry Family Cellars, notes: ‘Red wine in the Finger Lakes is continuously evolving. We’re figuring out vineyard techniques to increase ripeness. More importantly, we’re embracing the style of reds that we’re capable of consistently making here – less extracted, less oak, lower alcohol wines.’

Barry is working on expanding the palette of flavours available by producing Pinot Meunier and Gamay at Six-Eighty. He uses everything from Blaufränkisch to Pinot Noir and Syrah in the flagship blend for his Barry Family Cellars label.

He also works with hybrids such as Léon Millot and Cayuga to make both pét-nat and still versions that stretch the boundaries. With such a diversity of styles across all wine types, New York’s Finger Lakes is among the most exciting regions to watch.

See Charles Curtis MW’s tasting notes and scores for 10 Finger Lakes red wines

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