Expert’s choice: Zweigelt

Austria as a whole is still white wine country, but of the 30% of red vineyards, by far the most widely planted grape is Zweigelt at 6,130ha (figures from Austrian Wine, to end May 2022).

These vineyards are mostly in the regions of Burgenland (2,337ha of Zweigelt) and Niederösterreich (3,478ha); lying within Niederösterreich is the DAC of Carnuntum, which is known for its Zweigelt wines and has 232ha planted.

Other Austrian wine regions besides Burgenland and Niederösterreich account for less than 6% of the country’s total Zweigelt production.

Scroll down for a selection of 18 Zweigelt wines to try

Zweigelt’s ubiquity is perhaps the more surprising as, like Germany’s Müller-Thurgau, it is a crossing – of Blaufränkisch and St Laurent, although fruitier but less elegant than either of its precursors. The grape was created in 1922 by Dr Fritz Zweigelt, who happens to have been a keen Nazi, causing some controversy over its origins.

None of this detracts from the fact that Zweigelt remains, for growers and consumers, a popular grape. It ripens early and is not susceptible to frost or disease. Yields are generous and it suits a range of styles, including the ‘nouveau’.

It’s often blended with Blaufränkisch, Merlot or other varieties. Blaufränkisch, Austria’s other leading red grape, gives more complex wines, with more acidity and structure, but Zweigelt offers versatility and an immediate appeal, playing variations on cherry fruit.

A tale of two regions

Two regions have opted to highlight the grape as a monovarietal. The Neusiedlersee appellation in Burgenland covers the eastern side of the eponymous lake, and Zweigelt occupies 24% of the vineyards. One could argue that its greatest wines are the exquisite Trockenbeerenauslese and other sweet wines, but when it came to defining the ‘typical’ wine of the region for purposes of a DAC appellation (first granted in 2012), the mantle fell on Zweigelt. The basic DAC is aged in steel or used casks, whereas Zweigelt Reserve must be vinified and aged in wood for at least 18 months, and can also be a single-vineyard wine.

In the wider Carnuntum DAC, red wines must comprise a minimum two-thirds of Zweigelt or Blaufränkisch blended with other permitted varieties – nearly 28% of the vineyards here are planted with Zweigelt, making it the most widely encountered variety.

A private organisation of about 40 producers also makes wines under the ‘Rubin Carnuntum’ banner – prior to 2011 this was a single-variety wine made from either Zweigelt or Blaufränkisch, but since 2011 only pure Zweigelt can be used. Officially, Rubin should be an entry-level wine – and pricing generally reflects this – but I find many examples deliver considerable fruit and weight. Overall, it remains a style that’s accessible and young. Such wines are generally aged in tanks or large casks that confer no overtly woody aromas or flavours.

In contrast, there are Zweigelts from both Burgenland and Niederösterreich that are given more sophisticated handling, some with long ageing in barriques, often with a fair proportion of new barrels used. Such wines need to be evaluated on an individual basis, as medium-bodied Zweigelt is not the ideal candidate for ageing in barriques. There are certainly some excellent examples, but also wines that are extracted and excessively chewy. There seems little point in treating Zweigelt as though it were Cabernet Sauvignon.

Other regions in Lower Austria, as well as Styria, also make Zweigelt of immediate charm, if little complexity. Despite the marketing drive in recent years, there is a risk that excessive claims are made for the grape, carrying the possibility of disappointment among consumers whose expectations have been ramped up. Though there are good, structured examples, many of the most successful wines are those that offer immediate appeal and satisfaction over the medium term.

Tasting notes and scores for 18 Zweigelts to try

Related articles

• Austria’s Wagram region granted DAC status
• Domäne Wachau: producer profile
• Austrian wines for summer – 10 to try