Hermitage 2023: Report and top-scoring wines
A supple and ample vintage on the hill of Hermitage, that favours whites over the reds, the latter offering early drinking potential.
The style of red Hermitage this year is relatively approachable, the structures are a little more rounded and less rigid than in some vintages.
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According to Jean-Louis Chave, ‘it’s quite supple in white and in red, with relatively low acidity, a bit lactic in acidity – they are wines of softness.’
He compares 2023 to vintages like 1997, 2000 or 2007.
There are some very good wines in 2023, that will drink relatively early but won’t last as long as some more structured vintages.
Guillaume Sorrel reached the maximum permitted yields in Hermitage for the first time in the past six years.
‘Both reds and whites were successful,’ he says, and he admits he has ‘a slight preference for the whites,’ this year.
I agree; they have real vibrancy, drive and intensity in 2023 and will likely last longer than the reds.
Rhône 2023 full report and top-scoring wines
Key Hermitage producers in 2023
- Domaine JL Chave
- Domaine Marc Sorrel
- Famille Garon
- M Chapoutier
Best-value Hermitage wines in 2023
- Cave de Tain, Au Coeur des Siècles, Hermitage Blanc 2023
- Domaine du Colombier, Hermitage 2023
- M Chapoutier, Chante-Alouette, Hermitage Blanc 2023
Under-the-radar Hermitage producers in 2023
- Domaine du Colombier
- Emmanuel Darnaud
- Famille Garon
Northern Rhône 2023: The connoisseur’s guide
Southern Rhône 2023: The connoisseur’s guide
Compare vintages: See our coverage of Hermitage from previous years
Hermitage 2022: Report and top-scoring wines
Hermitage 2021: Report and top-scoring wines
Hermitage 2020: Report and top-scoring wines
Top-scoring Hermitage wines in 2023:
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M Chapoutier, L'Ermite Blanc, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2023
This has the classic Ermite aromatic markers of flint, spice, smoke and salt. Very full-bodied, there's ample flesh here, all wound around an intense, granitic, mineral core, ending with salt and smoke. Huge power, drive, minerality and tension. The vineyards face east around the chapel, the only white vines on the granitic part of Hermitage, apart from Dard & Ribo's.
2023
M ChapoutierHermitage
Domaine Marc Sorrel, Les Rocoules, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2023
Slightly darker in colour than the domaine's classic Hermitage. Intense quince and pear, very rich and powerful, but has a dry, savoury, edge and a firm, mineral grind, along with dried honey. Real power in this, which balances the richness. Drinkable now, but will age very well thanks to its salinity and extract. Very long.
2023
Domaine Marc SorrelHermitage
M Chapoutier, Le Méal Blanc, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2023
A little closed at the time of tasting, showing pear, honeysuckle and apricot fruit. Full-bodied, very powerful and rich, with intense salinity and moderate but refreshing acidity. Great power, this has that firm, serious, bold demeanour of Le Méal, and serious length. A great white Hermitage that will age superbly.
2023
M ChapoutierHermitage
Domaine JL Chave, Blanc, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2023
A tasting of the Péléat and Les Rocoules vineyards behind this wine points to an expressive, juicy, relatively soft and juicy style of white Hermitage this year. It’s likely to be a relatively supple vintage, with gentle acidity and rich fruit.
2023
Domaine JL ChaveHermitage
Famille Garon, Fossyl, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2023
<p>This is a great example of a white Hermitage that teams power with freshness. It has great impact, huge salinity, serious extract and drive. The alcohol is high enough, but not too high and, similarly, the oak work is robust but not over the top. A very well-judged wine, making for a proper white Hermitage with typicity, length, depth, power and longevity. Highly recommended, this is the domaine's first white Hermitage, matured for 14 months in French oak barriques, 20% new, with partial malolactic.</p>
2023
Famille GaronHermitage
M Chapoutier, De L'Orée, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2023
The 2023 has that characteristic De l'Orée richness, but it's not as massive or as opulent as some recent vintages, and feels all the more drinkable for it. Very long, with a straighter, more mineral expression than a typical, recent hot year and perfectly judged oak work, it's a De l'Orée to drink young. Very elegant and fresh, will likely take on weight with some bottle age, as was only bottled a few weeks before tasting.
2023
M ChapoutierHermitage
M Chapoutier, L'Ermite, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2023
This has beguiling smoky, flinty, petrichor notes. There's great energy, focus and salinity, it's straight as an arrow. The tannins are pure, fine and fully ripe. Even in weaker vintages this cuvée performs, thanks to a great terroir. Unbelievable finesse and extraordinary tannic quality, so fine but so generous and textural. Seriously mineral, the acidity is just a touch low, perhaps, but this is so engaging. 15% whole bunch.
2023
M ChapoutierHermitage
Domaine JL Chave, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2023
<p>A tasting of constituent barrels suggests this will be a particularly approachable and supple vintage of Chave's Hermitage – it is a vintage without great tannic mass or strong acidity, but has deliciously ripe Méal fruit. Very elegant, if fairly low in tannin compared to a typical year, this will drink well young, starting at around 2036 really, but will be approachable, if less rewarding, earlier than that. It will drink before the 2022, and probably not last as long. Undoubtedly a big step up from the 2021, but doesn't quite have the soaring majesty of the 2019 or the 2020.</p>
2023
Domaine JL ChaveHermitage
Domaine Marc Sorrel, Le Gréal, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2023
Powerful, explosive, peppery mulberry fruit. Very smoky in style, with iodine notes and lots of dense, ripe tannin underneath driving fruits. Very fresh and focused, with good acidity, but has that Hermitage size and body, that majestic, impressive attack and grandeur. Very tannic, again with some stalky notes from 100% whole bunch. 8% co-planted white varieties, all planted in 1926, the same date as the Rocoules vineyard. Will be epic when it's ready. Very ageworthy for a 2023.
2023
Domaine Marc SorrelHermitage
Domaine du Colombier, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2023
A lighter style of Hermitage, spicy and brisk, but the tannins are very fine and it has good concentration. Acidity is well balanced and there's good length here, too. Not a powerful or concentrated style, but one with balance, salinity and measured use of oak. Will be good in time and freshly drinkable soon enough if you can't wait. Wonderful finesse. From lieux-dits Les Beaumes and Les Diognières. 30% new oak.
2023
Domaine du ColombierHermitage
Emmanuel Darnaud, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2023
An earthy expression of Hermitage, with dried fruit notes to the blackberry and cassis. Has weight and power, is properly ripe, with quite warming alcohol and a long finish. The oak work is well integrated and this has a good feeling of harmony, with good acidity and length. A blend of lieux-dits Les Greffieux and Les Bessards. In conversion to organic.
2023
Emmanuel DarnaudHermitage
M Chapoutier, Le Pavillon, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2023
Beautifully perfumed, with violets and juicy black fruits. Very smooth in tannin, actually quite soft, it's approachable for Les Bessards. WIth its tangy plum sauce, the Pavillon style is identifiable, but it's perhaps not quite as pure and elegant as the finest vintages; nonetheless, very good indeed. 15% whole bunch.
2023
M ChapoutierHermitage
