Lo Sparviere
Lo Sparviere was founded by Monique Poncelet Gussalli Beretta in 1974, at a time when Franciacorta was a young DOC, with barely a dozen producers of sparkling wine. It was the first of the group of high-profile estates which went on to shape the modern history of Metodo Classico in Italy. The first bottles from the estate were released in 1984 followed, in time, by the wines which now form a comprehensive portfolio, based predominantly on Chardonnay, ranging from fresh non-vintage cuvées through to mature Riservas with long lees ageing.
Creating balance and intensity
The property’s organically managed vineyards extend over 30ha in the communes of Monticelli Brusati and Provaglio d’Iseo, in the northeast of the Franciacorta DOCG zone. Calcareous marl soils, which differ markedly from the typical glacial moraine of Franciacorta, give structure to the wines. Meanwhile, the cool mesoclimate of sites stretching up to 300 metres above sea level offers the crucial benefits of delaying grape ripening and preserving acidity, which determines the crisp intensity and finesse of the house style.
Individual plots across the estate are harvested separately on the basis of exposure and the age of the vines. In the words of winemaker Francesco Polastri, ‘Lo Sparviere is an artisan winery that treats every land parcel as if it were unique’. Each plot is then vinified separately in what Poalstri describes as the ‘bespoke management of every base wine’. Subsequent blending of the different cuvées (ten in the case of the Brut Cuvée 7 – the latest addition to the range) creates balance and complexity, which is the other hallmark of the estate.
Lo Sparviere, Franciacorta Extra Brut Rosé Monique
Named in honour of the founder of the estate and first produced in 2004, Rosé Monique is sourced from the Sergnana vineyard – planted with Pinot Noir vines only – in Provaglio d’Iseo. This exclusive 600-bottle edition was created to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the foundation of the estate, which happily coincides with the 20th anniversary of its first release.
The pale coral shade, delicate mousse and super-fine perlage are an impeccable introduction to a wine with complex aromas of red fruit and citrus, sweet aromatic herbs, an enticing saline-mineral nuance. The palate holds great intensity, concentration, a wonderful creamy dry texture and infinite length. Tantalisingly rare and absolutely outstanding. Disgorged in October 2023, after 48 months on the lees. Drinking 2024-2030+
99 points
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In addition to Lo Sparviere, the Agricole Gussalli Beretta (AGB) group manages four other estates in prestigious areas of northern and central Italy. Their distinctive terroirs, and in particular their location in cooler climate zones, makes them notably resistant to the more extreme effects of climate change.
Each estate is managed autonomously, with its own staff and specialised external consultants but there is a collective emphasis on terroir expression, as well as elegance and finesse in the winemaking. These features are exemplified by the Castello di Radda estate in Chianti Classico and Fortemasso in the Langhe of Piemonte.
Castello di Radda
The organic Castello di Radda estate is located in Radda, a village that is home to some of the highest sites in Chianti Classico. The estate was completely replanted with predominantly Sangiovese when AGB arrived in 2003. The property includes just under 40ha of vineyard, including a plot in the prestigious cru of Vertine in nearby Gaiole. The combination of the cool climate and stony galestro soils makes for wines of firm structure and aromatic intensity.
Castello di Radda, Chianti Classico 2021
A fragrant, expressive nose with notes of iris, dark berries, tea leaf and a whiff of iodine preludes a palate with firm fibre and just the right touch of severity in the long savoury finish. This is a vibrant, thoroughbred Chianti Classico with a precise sense of place from an excellent vintage. Drinking 2024-2030
96 points
Castello di Radda, Chianti Classico Riserva 2018
Opens on the nose with violets, spice, a hint of wood smoke, as well as plum and sour cherry, which carries through to a full-bodied palate, where the volume is supported by a juicy acidity. A mineral, wet stone finish rounds off a wine of depth and complexity. Drinking now but built to last. Drinking 2024-2034+
95 points
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Fortemasso
Gussalli Beretta acquired Fortemasso in 2013. The winery’s Barolo comes from 5ha of old vines planted on the characteristic sandy soils of the Castelletto MGA, on east-facing slopes overlooking the valley of Serralunga. Here, the summer heat is tempered by the cool winds of the Alta Langa. Delicate handling of oak ageing retains the freshness and typical complexity of the wines of Castelletto, in a style at once modern and classic.
Fortemasso, Barolo Castelletto 2019
Yields were down in 2019 but quality was excellent, which saw a return to traditional October harvest dates at Castelletto. Fresh and precise on the nose, with its dark fruit, violets and laurel leaf aromas, it’s also incisive on the palate. This is a Barolo of extreme elegance and refinement, with the restrained energy of an outstanding vintage. Drinking 2024-2034+
97 points
Fortemasso, Barolo Castelletto Riserva 2017
Despite the hot, dry summer that brought harvest dates forward, this is a wine with great balance, which continues the winery’s string of critically acclaimed Fortemasso Riservas. The nose has ripe red fruit, sweet spice, liquorice, hints of truffle and a classic note of camphor. The palate is broad and long, with the depth of an authentic example of this category. A classic Barolo from a great site. Drinking 2024-2034
96 points
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