Established in the 18th century, Château Malartic-Lagravière has been family-owned and -run since its inception, having exchanged hands three times only. The privileged custodian of the storied estate is now the Bonnie family, owners of Malartic-Lagravière since 1997.
Under the leadership of the Bonnies, the Château – granted Grand Cru Classé status in the 1953 Graves classification – has leveraged its reputation, thanks to its long history and respect for tradition, to become an example of forward-thinking and terroir-focused winemaking. Its expertly curated hospitality programme has also drawn international renown. The Château has set a new benchmark for sustainability in the region, through a holistic and pragmatic approach that goes from root to table.
Ecosystemic balance
‘Our focus, from the very beginning, was the quality of the wines. And the foundation for quality is the health of the vines,’ explains second-generation Séverine Bonnie, Director of Communication, Marketing and Hospitality at Malartic-Lagravière. ‘We’ve been following an ever more meticulous and mindful way of working the land to preserve the ecosystem and encourage biodiversity. This approach has allowed the vines to find a beautiful balance of their own. The vines are alive and it’s such a pleasure to walk through the plots and see how they reflect our deepest convictions. The wines, in turn, have gained depth and aromatic complexity.’
Château Malartic-Lagravière currently has 73 hectares under vine (seven planted with white grapes), all of which are managed following agroecological practices, horse-ploughed and naturally fertilised by roaming sheep and geese. The estate’s farm has 70 animals that contribute to the ecosystemic balance, which is ultimately reflected in the health of the vines and the purity of the fruit they produce.
In the cellar, the work focuses very precisely on preserving this purity through gravity-fed, gentle vinifications. The estate’s wines, both red and white, stand out for their balance, filigreed structure and elegance, all of which conspire to make them quintessential food companions, made for the pleasures of the table.
Capturing a daily commitment
To celebrate nearly three decades of dedication to the estate’s storied legacy and the exceptional terroir of Graves, the Bonnie family has released a short film documenting the work at the estate and the ethos behind it. ‘We really wanted to document the process we’ve experienced over the past two decades, fully dedicated to our vineyards and attuned to the genius loci,’ says Bonnie. ‘We wanted to explain our philosophy and approach to terroir in an honest and relatable way, while also showing the people who work here daily to make everything possible.’
Directed by Léo Lamant and Mathieu Augé of Léma Slow Productions and filmed over the course of a year, the film captures the daily commitment to the land and the effort of all those involved in bringing the ‘Malartic-Lagravière dream’ to life. ‘It was a fascinating process,’ continues Bonnie, ‘focused on our particular approach and the character of this place – who we really are and why we work the soil and landscape in a specific way. The images represent the power of nature, the hardship, our joys and doubts. All this is part of the beauty of our craft, which we wish to convey through each bottle we make.’
The Château has indeed become more than a wine-producing estate – it is a project of passion and a way of life for the Bonnies and the outstanding professionals that they have surrounded themselves with.
The film is also an affirmation of hope, as wine producers worldwide (and in Bordeaux in particular) brace for a complex, challenging future of much natural and economic turmoil.
‘The challenges ahead are manifold: climatic, geopolitical… As winemakers, we are on the frontline, facing them on a daily basis,’ shares Bonnie. ‘But we are truly confident; if nature is able to adapt, then so should we. In the meantime, we need to remain vigilant and protect our resources in the best possible way,’ she concludes.
May the dream live on.
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