The brainchild of Vincenzo Poerio, Poggio Mori was founded in 2006 when the former CEO of Benetti Yachts came across this precious corner of Tuscany – in Sarteano, Val di Chiana, province of Siena – and decided to start a new life. Inspired by the character, beauty and potential of the estate’s grounds, Poerio uprooted his busy life to sow the seeds of a new way of working and being.
Poggio Mori became the embodiment of a new philosophy and of a renewed energy that channelled the owner’s entrepreneurial spirit towards nature and craftsmanship. Both the estate’s buildings and overall management were completely restructured with the goal of establishing a quality-driven, sustainable venture, following organic farming practices and using renewable energy sources.
The estate’s 25 hectares – 9.5 of which are planted with vines – are managed holistically, seamlessly weaving farming, winemaking and hospitality. In addition to wine, Poggio Mori produces extra virgin olive oil, fruits, vegetables and preserves, while guests are invited to stay at the onsite villa and cottages.
Diversifying excellence
Upon purchase, the estate’s vineyards consisted mostly of Sangiovese vines. In 2007, these were replaced with Bordeaux varieties (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot). This decision was made with the input from renowned consultant winemaker Andrea Franchetti, who highlighted the potential of Poggio Mori’s terroirs to produce world class wines. Then in 2018, plantings continued with the addition of 1.5ha of Marsanne, Roussanne and Trebbiano, 0.3ha of Malvasia and Trebbiano, and 1.2ha of Sangiovese – thus reintroducing the production of Chianti at the estate.
Plantings at Poggio Mori follow a guyot-trained, high-density layout (8.800 plants/ha), that naturally helps keep yields in check. The careful production of smaller amounts of the best possible quality fruit – with optimal maturity and aromatic complexity – is essential to sustain the quality and purity that defines Poggio Mori.
All vineyard work, including harvest, is done by hand, allowing for minimal environmental impact and careful grape selection. In the cellar, all grapes and parcels are vinified separately in a variety of vessels, including clay amphorae, concrete tanks and wooden barrels, selected according to specific profile of each plot and variety. This allows the fruit to fully express itself and contribute as much as possible to the balance and complexity of the final blend. Head winemaker Alessandro Aggravi leads a strict, terroir-driven winemaking program, creating balanced and elegant wines that reflect the philosophy of Poggio Mori, and his own love and knowledge of the local terroir.
The diverse palette of grape varieties now provides the raw material for a range of organic-certified wines defined by purity, drinkability and age-worthiness. Poggio Mori’s collection includes three reds (under the Chianti DOCG Riserva and Rosso Toscano IGT), two whites (Toscana IGT) and a luscious Vinsanto del Chianti DOC.
Architectural jewell
Historical documents date the origins of Poggio Mori’s estate and main villa back to the 18th century. Its name is thought be a nod both to the Mori family, one of the estate’s previous owners, and the many wild berries (‘mori’) growing along the perimeter of the farm.
The old building was fully restored after careful research work, reinstating the sophisticated simplicity of traditional Tuscan architecture. A combination of traditional (wood and local travertine stone) and modern (steel) materials were used to convey the structural essence of the building, while conveying a peaceful, understated contemporary elegance.
The villa is now at the epicentre of a boutique hospitality offering that also includes xx cottages, a pool, a fitness area, a wellness room, two barbecue corners and various sitting areas, immersed in the surrounding gardens. In tandem with the wines and other products produced at the estate, these structures materialise the vision of Vincenzo Poerio and invite guests to immerse themselves in the landscape and history of Poggio Mori.
Tasting the flagship wines of Poggio Mori:
Il Capriolo Bianco, IGT Bianco Toscano 2021
Marsanne 50%, Roussanne 50%; 13.5% abv
Fleshy Asian pear, quince and yellow apple, underscored by lemon curd. Richness on the mid palate, offset by a good acid line. Volume and subtle unctuosity. Six months in French oak barrels and clay amphorae, have improved structural poise, as well as a subtle nuttiness. Very long finish, with persistent melon, pear, frangipane and savoury brioche.
An interesting, characterful and well-crafted expression of the two Rhône varieties, with some ageing potential in bottle.
Drink now – 2029
92 points
Sertorius, IGT Rosso Toscano 2019
Merlot 50%, Cabernet Franc 25%, Cabernet Sauvignon 20%, Petit Verdot 5%; 13.5% abv
Beautiful interplay between red fruit freshness and black fruit depth, with a fine herbal lining adding nuance and depth. Crunchy cranberry, red cherry and moreish prune are topped by hints of petrichor, freshly turned soil and graphite. Beautiful tannic structure, fine and well presented. Medium-long finish with lingering cranberry juice and sweet spice.
Elegant, outstandingly drinkable yet also deep and complex.
Drink now – 2034
93 points
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