A lot is said, these days, about the ‘histories and stories behind the label’, as producers and appellations across the world seek to engrave a sense of uniqueness in the minds of consumers. But few regions boast a viticultural and winemaking history as long and established as DO Toro, deeply rooted in the identity of Castilla y León. Far from emerging as a marketing necessity, in Toro this long heritage is part of a lived history that has not only endured but still shapes the region’s landscape, economy and symbolism.

What is it, then, that makes Toro unique and special? It is, above all, its singular combination of historical relevance and future potential. Along with a renewed understanding and appreciation of the region’s oenological lineage, there has also been a recognition of its privileged ability to grapple with key viticultural challenges in the near future. As climate change looms large, DO Toro has two key assets that allow it to face the future with optimism, if not excitement: an adaptable and inherently resilient viticultural landscape, and a vibrant community of skilled winemakers, itself experiencing an exhilarating moment of renewal.

What’s in a name

Toro’s own indigenous and eponymous variety, Tinta de Toro, is sometimes mistakenly described as a local clone of Tempranillo. The reality is more complex – and fascinatingly so: Tinta de Toro has a very specific phenotypic profile, very different from Tempranillo, with compact bunches of smaller, harder-skinned berries and a distinctly savoury aromatic profile that comes to full bloom with time (more on this below). This in turn results in greater flavour concentration and a tannic structure of characteristic robustness paired with elegance.

These characteristics are further underscored by the naturally low yields and concentration delivered by old vines, of which DO Toro has a unique stock. Home to some of Spain’s oldest vineyards, most of the region’s plots are a vision of gnarled, bush-trained vines – many of which ungrafted – more evocative of sculptures than of plants.

With ageing, be it in the cellar or in bottle, Tinta de Toro wines develop a profile that departs even further from Tempranillos’. Because of its tannic structure, polyphenolic content and aromatic depth, Tinta de Toro has a special affinity with ageing vessels (oak and clay in particular), integrating their influence without losing – and in fact enhancing – its own character. The grape’s trademark savoury edge, with alluring Mediterranean herbs and salty liquorice, gains definition with time, adding ageing potential to already expressive wines.

This helps to explain why DO Toro is the source of some of Spain’s most sought-after wines, which take pride of place in fine wine collections and are increasingly valued as investments.

A tale of many terroirs

As well as its namesake grape’s singularity and oenological potential, Toro has another invaluable asset: a fascinating diversity of terroirs, reflecting breathtaking geological variation, sometimes within the same plot. Rolling hills can display Châteauneuf-du-Pape-like pebbly soils on one flank, giving way to iron-rich clays on the opposite side. Broadly speaking, there are eight different soil types in DO Toro, ranging from sands and gravels to heavier clays and limestones, with intricate combinations of all these. In tandem with the region’s incredible patrimony of old vines, themselves capable of adapting to the specific demands of each plot, soil diversity is an intrinsic component of the minute variations that shape DO Toro’s mosaic of micro terroirs.

Producers have long been aware of this intra-regional diversity, employing it in the creation of both balanced appellation-wide blends and site-specific bottlings that reflect the particular character of a given village or vineyard. This is increasingly reflected on the labels, communicating the many identities, terroirs and fruit profiles within DO Toro. Some argue these nuances should be inscribed in the appellation’s legal framework, allowing terms such as Vino de Pueblo and Viñedo Singular to be used and better defined, giving winemakers an additional tool to communicate the singularity of their own interpretations of Toro to consumers. But whether legally categorised or not, these terroir differences already shape DO Toro’s wines and the personality of each producer’s range.

New faces, renewed fascination

An influx of new faces, many bringing international experience and perspective, has injected a vibrant energy into the DO over the last couple of decades. The fact that so many outsiders have fallen in love with Toro’s landscape, rusticity and viticultural history has validated its locals’ self-belief, infusing the DO with a newfound confidence. This has in turn helped to retain and promote local talent and a much-needed generational transition that preserves inherited knowledge while giving space to new interpretations of Toro wines, at the crossroads of tradition and innovation.

The childlike wonder with which many mavericks, both foreign and local, have embraced Toro’s winemaking heritage – and challenged assumptions of what a modern Toro wine should be – has opened up new perspectives, while introducing the appellation to a new international audience. In many cases this has led to a reappreciation of tradition through a modern lens, underpinned by improved technical training, precision viticulture and sustainability principles.

Overall, this shake-up of the local community has both catalysed and been catalysed by an influx of external investment. Projects backed by key producers from some of Toro’s sibling appellations along the Duero River and from Rioja, further east, underscore the region’s unanimously accepted potential for future success. In the meantime, long-standing multi-generational family businesses move forward with confidence, armed with a deep connection to their own land and a long lineage of experience.

Looking to the future

Interest from established producers from other areas, both within Spain and abroad, is proof of DO Toro’s potential, present and future. Tinta de Toro, especially if hailing from old vines, has inherent climate resilience; incredibly well adapted to local terroirs and to extreme weather conditions, Tinta de Toro grapes are able to withstand challenging growing seasons while still reaching optimal phenolic maturation. On the other hand, while in other regions winemakers are only now learning how to manage alcohol levels to produce balanced, complex wines, in Toro this is a long-mastered skill.

The future is therefore shaped by increasing precision – in the vineyard and cellar alike – in order to produce elegant, expressive, age-worthy wines that speak of their time and place; a truth that applies not only to the appellation’s flagship Tinta de Toro reds, but to other varieties and styles as well. On the red front, Toro’s Garnacha shows incredible potential for freshness and aromatic nuance. The region’s whites, produced from Verdejo, Albillo Real, Malvasía Castellana and Moscatel de Grano Menudo, display impressive complexity of aromas and flavours, underpinned by a layered, very food-friendly palate. And a word for the region’s sweets, which although not yet permitted in the appellation’s regulations to be labelled as DO Toro, will be so in the future: the same attributes that bring balance to the whites and reds – phenological complexity and an intensity offset by vibrant freshness – make them luscious yet vibrant wines with outstanding food-pairing potential.

 

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Toro wines to try:

Bodegas Piedra, Lagarona – Crianza Sobre Lías Ecológico, Toro 2021
£50 Milestone Wines
An interesting blend of Malvasia, Albillo and Verdejo, hailing from old vines, showing a good interplay between of all three varieties. Delicate nose of wild flowers, hay, blanched almonds, Asian pear and crunchy pineapple. The oak is quite prominent on the palate, but the freshness of the fruit is there. Good acid drive and elegant restraint. A wine to enjoy with food. Organic certified. Drink 2024-2027 Alc 13.5%
93 points

Galindo San Millan, La Miaja, Toro 2021
Seeking representation in the UK
A rich yet approachable wine with an unctuous feel, very gastronomic. Softness on the mid-palate, balanced by a mineral verticality throughout. Flavours of apple peel, toasted almonds, wild fennel and dry sage are dominate. The sweetness of the American oak adds depth and complexity, especially to the long finish. Drink 2024-2027 Alc 13.5%
92 points

Bodega Latarce, Latarce Verdejo, Toro 2020
£35-£40 Tsarscaviar
From an organic vineyard of Verdejo, interspersed with old plants of Albillo Mayor. Deep nose of clementine zest, crunchy pear, green apple and melon, with a flinty reductive edge. Papaya, ripe pineapple and almonds dominate the expressive, rich and deep palate. Subtle touches of wild fennel and dry mint. A great wine for rich fish dishes, cheese or roast chicken. Drink 2024-2029 Alc 14.5%
92 points

Valbusenda, Verdejo, Toro 2019
£26 Botley Hill Farmhouse
Interesting expression of Verdejo, fermented in French oak barriques and aged for 10 months on the lees. With some time in bottle it has perhaps lost some of the citrus and herbal freshness but retains a nutty complexity that make it a very alluring wine. Gentle notes of dry rose petals and jasmine add a floral lift to the apple peel, pineapple, papaya and melon fruit. Nice weight on the mid-palate and lingering spiciness.
Drink 2024-2026 Alc 13%
92 points

Bodegas Fariña, Primero, Toro 2023
£15.99 C & D Wines
A characterful, carbonic-macerated take on Tinta de Toro, that shows the variety’s versatility and broad appeal. Juicy, fresh and with incredible focus, it presents velvety red cherry, blackberry and plums poached in Earl Grey tea. A fine layer of spice – liquorice and white pepper – adds a fresh lift throughout. Best enjoyed a bit chilled. Simply fun and delicious. Drink 2024-2024 Alc 14%
92 points

Bodega Campo Elíseo, Hermanos Lurton, Toro 2022
€15 Basco Foods
Fermented in egg-shaped tanks, a characterful Tinta de Toro with a refreshing, juicy grip and a mineral quality to the tannins and structure. Alcohol is extremely well integrated, making it enjoyable yet also poised. Lovely acid backbone. An elegant, modern and well-crafted wine with interesting ageing potential. No added sulphites. Organic certified. Drink 2024-2033 Alc 14.5%
94 points

Bodegas Vatan, Tritón, Toro 2022
£27 J&Q Boutique Wine
Hailing from old, bush-trained and ungrafted vines, this wine has deep notes of salty liquorice, dark chocolate and cocoa nibs over a layer of fresh black fruit. Firm, mineral tannins add tension and depth. Subtle touches of violets and Earl Grey tea add aromatic nuance. Great energy and potential to age in bottle. Wood is well worked and integrated. One for roasted meats. Drink 2024-2033 Alc 15%
93 points

Teso La Monja, Alabaster, Toro 2021
£150 Enotria
Deep nose of poached cherries, Earl Grey-infused plum, violet, salty liquorice and dry oregano. Firm yet fine-grained, the tannins have a mineral, refreshing quality shaping a salty texture. Crunchy pomegranate, red apple and plum on the palate. Gravelly finish, with vibrancy and length. Spicy notes dancing in the background.
Drink 2024-2037 Alc 14.5%
96 points

Bodega Diez Gomez, La Jota de To Viuda Rica Selección Vinas Viejas, Toro 2021
£32 TSARS CAVIAR – Expomarketing UK Ltd
A round and complex wine hailing from 100-year-old vineyards. The nose is deceivingly sweet, with deep confected fruit; the palate follows with surprising lift and freshness, driving the plum, red apple and blackcurrant flavours. Firm tannins, carrying the fruit through to the long finish. Gentle herbal notes add savoury nuance.
Drink 2024-2033 Alc 14.5%
92 points

Bodega Torreduero, Marqués de Peñamonte Colección Privada, Toro 2021
£18.99 Stewart Wines, Bristol Trade, Tate-Smith Wines Malton, Yorkshire Trade
Alluring nose, with deep black fruit, bergamot, Earl Grey spice and port-infused cherries. Good use of oak, adding smokey depth and structural complexity. The palate is well supported by the freshness of the fruit and the distinct liquorice edge. Enjoy with lamb cutlets or Sunday roast. Drink 2024-2030 Alc 15%
91 points

Teso La Monja, Victorino, Toro 2020
£90 Enotria
Outstanding nose, bursting with sweet red and black fruit, and Mediterranean herbs (mint, thyme, sage) macerated in olive oil. Very fine tannins, silky and lined with a smoky layer (tobacco leaves, chocolate box). Fresh, almost zesty pull to the finish. Acid, wood and alcohol are deftly managed for a balanced feel throughout and an overall approachability. Drink 2024-2033 Alc 14.5%
95 points

Carodorum, Cardodorum Vino de Autor, Toro 2020
£27 Corney & Barrow
Produced with fruit from old, ungrafted vines, this is deliciously deep and broody, with intense black fruit and lovely savoury touches of dark chocolate, tobacco box and dried leaves. A serious wine (that doesn’t take itself too seriously) with lovely complexity. Very good use of oak. Drink 2024-2035 Alc 15%
93 points

Mazas, Senda del Lobo, Toro 2020
£62 Ultracomida Ltd.
Distinctively spicy, with white and black pepper, nutmeg and cardamom dominating the nose, over a core of juicy plum, cherry and pomegranate. The palate is focused and precise, shaped by the mineral quality of the tannins and the linear acidity. Long finish with unsurprisingly, lingering spice. Drink 2024-2030 Alc 14.5%
93 points

Bodega Viñaguareña, Munia Especial, Toro 2020
£21 Solaris Wines Limited
Hailing from pre-phylloxera vines, this has an elegant, poised character. The fresh nose is followed by a complex palate, that combines rich fruit with savoury edge and earthy undertones of tobacco leaf and forest floor. Long finish with hints of liquorice and sweet spice. Good ageing potential and gastronomic appeal. Drink 2024-2033 Alc 15%
93 points

San Roman, San Roman, Toro 2020
£42 City Wine Collection
Balanced and nuanced, with an interesting interplay of primary and secondary notes; an earthy foreground showing pleasant development. The core of juicy black fruit has a savoury lining of dry Mediterranean herbs, tobacco leaf and forest floor. Broody and deep, with a very subtle finish. Organic certified. Drink 2024-2030 Alc 14.5%
93 points

San Roman, Prima, Toro 2020
£20 City Wine Collection
Fresh, poised and elegant. Use of wood was deftly managed and the alcohol well integrated. Gravelly tannins give structure to the crunchy red and black fruit and zesty pink grapefruit. Lovely refreshing length. A great wine for a casual dinner that can also withstand a more serious menu of lamb chops or roast chicken.
Drink 2024-2030 Alc 14.5%
92 points

Francisco Casas, Viña ABBA, Toro 2020
£42 City Wine Collection
Complex, alluring nose of Earl Grey-poached plum and port-infused cherries. Complex, powerful yet elegant with alluring herbal touches of thyme, wild oregano and sage. Salty liquorice lingers and adds freshness and character to the finish. Good potential to age in bottle. Drink 2024-2028 Alc 15%
92 points

Quinta De La Quietud, Corral de Campanas, Toro 2020
£17.95 Thorne Wines
Fresh, pure nose with defined aromas of plum, red apple and blood orange. The palate echoes this freshness but the alcohol adds warmth and depth. Elegant, soft yet firm tannins with a certain mineral quality, that makes this wine quite distinct. Nuances of black pepper and nutmeg, especially on the medium finish. Organic certified.
Drink 2024-2027 Alc 15%
91 points

Legado De Orniz, Epitafio, Toro 2019
£22 El Toro Wines
Produced with fruit hailing from 100-year-old vineyards, this conveys incredible sense of place. Voluminous elegance with silky tannins and deep red and black fruit. Fine, transparent flavours of plum, red cherry, cranberry and blood orange. Thyme and sage add a savoury, Mediterranean nuance. Long finish and outstanding ageing potential. Drink 2024-2037 Alc 15%
95 points

Elias Mora, Crianza, Toro 2019
£15.50 Georges Barbier of London Ltd
A truly elegant wine, with the trademark expressiveness of this producer. Great winemaking and wood management on show. Restrained but very detailed nose. Lovely tannic structure; poised and detailed. Juicy plum and cherry dominate the palate, with crunchy red apple and zesty pink grapefruit for a refreshing kick. Great ageing potential. Drink 2024-2036 Alc 15%
94 points

Iturria, Valdosan, Toro 2019
€25 The Wine Beagle
Alluring mineral freshness to the nose, bright and focused. Fleshy red fruit dominates the palate with elegance and restraint. Good crunch to the core of plum, red apple, watermelon and pomegranate. The tannins have the same mineral, pure quality, adding both power and energy. Organic certified. Drink 2024-2030 Alc 14.5%
93 points

Bodegas Mazas, Mazas Crianza, Toro 2019
£19.90 Ultracomida Ltd.
Lifted, refreshing aromas of plum, orange zest and sour cherry. A great vibrancy on the palate with alcohol very well integrated and juicy flavours of blackcurrant, plum and cherry. Zesty tannins provide both structure and drinkability. Drinking well now but with a long life ahead. Drink 2024-2035 Alc 15%
93 points

Bodegas Frontaura, Frontaura & Victoria Reserva, Toro 2019
£62 Martinez Wines
Filigreed and detailed with pure, lifted flavours of plum, pomegranate, cranberry and blood orange. Refreshing juiciness on the mid-palate. Wood is very well worked, supporting the fine but robust tannic structure. The finish reveals a spicy edge that will further emerge as the wine ages in bottle. Drink 2024-2030 Alc 14.5%
93 points

Bodega Frutos Villar, Muruve Élite, Toro 2019
£36 Berkmann Wine Cellars
With a good acid grip and a fleshy quality to the dark fruit, this wine is dangerously drinkable for its superbly integrated alcohol level. On the palate, a layer of refreshing red fruit and spice give it even more lift. Medium finish. A wine to enjoy with roasted meats or braised tuna. Drink 2024-2033 Alc 15.5%
92 points

Bodega Tardencuba, Monte Toro Crianza, Toro 2019
£16 Liquid Indulgence
Vibrant nose with a savoury, Mediterranean edge (garrigue and olive tapenade) over the plum and cherry fruit. Lively palate with firm zesty tannins, juicy red and black fruit, and a lovely, robust acid line. Top lingering notes of orange zest and pomegranate add energy, focus and length. Drink 2024-2030 Alc 15%
92 points

Finca Sobreño, Reserva, Toro 2019
£29.90 Wickham Wine
Intense, ripe core of poached plums, black cherries and blood orange marmalade, lined with spicy touches of nutmeg, white spice and cinnamon. Good acidity offsetting the ripeness of the fruit. Tannins are well presented and pleasantly grippy. Good ageing and food pairing potential. Drink 2024-2030 Alc 14.5%
91 points

Bodegas Numanthia, Numanthia, Toro 2018
£55 Moet Hennessy UK
A great example of this producer’s refined and assertive style, supported by fleshy tannins and focused acid. Vibrant and expressive, while also robust and broad, with intense cherry and plum underpinned by chocolate, mocha and black pepper. A wine in its infancy; will be interesting to see how it evolves in bottle as the tannins and alcohol integrate further. Drink 2024-2035 Alc 15%
94 points

Legado De Orniz, Legado de Orniz, Toro 2018
£44 El Toro Wines
An expressive yet classical Tinta de Toro with its power offset by lovely zesty acidity. Elegant tannic framework, firm but fine-grained. Great fruit definition, which will develop in time as the pepper and liquorice spice comes to the forefront. Wood and alcohol are superbly integrated. Delicious savoury finish, with lingering notes of dried thyme and charred wood. Drink 2024-2037 Alc 15%
94 points

Viña Zangarrón – Finca Volvoreta, L’Amphore, Toro 2018
POA Ellis Wines
A characterful, modern expression of Toro, fermented and aged in amphorae, showing the many potentials of Tinta de Toro. Deep, mineral nose with a wet-stone freshness to it and notes of plum, red apple and blood orange. The palate echoes this vibrancy, revealing a core of crunchy black fruit and poised tannins. Organic certified.
Drink 2024-2035 Alc 14.5%
94 points

Estancia Piedra, Lagarona – Ecológico Cepas Viejas, Toro 2018
£75 Milestone Wines
Filigreed nose with lovely floral and red fruit characters imparted by Garnacha. Red plum and pomegranate come to the forefront on the palate, followed by pink pepper, liquorice and nutmeg. A wine to savour at length, allowing it to open in the glass. Good ageing potential. Perfect pairing companion to steak and Sunday roast. Organic certified.
Drink 2024-2035 Alc 15%
93 points

Muruve, Reserva, Toro 2018
£27 Berkmann Wine Cellars
Softly textured with deep red and black fruit supported by refreshing acid and firm tannins. A fine balsamic layer of bay leaf, dried mint, sage and thyme adds energy and savoury appeal, and lifts the weight of the mid palate. Long, spicy finish.
Drink 2024 2028 Alc 14.5%
92 points

Bodega Rejadorada, Antona Garcia, Toro 2018
£19.49 House of Townend
From a vineyard planted in 1953, this shows a good balance between fruit maturity and underlying freshness. Showing great vibrancy five years on with deft wood integration. Juicy red fruit topped with sweet spice. Floral nuances (violets and crushed roses) give it a fragrant lift. Warm, long finish. Drink 2024-2028 Alc 14.5%
92 points

Rodriguez Y Sanzo, Las Tierras Extinta, Toro 2017
£24.95 Oakley Wine Agencies
Really seductive and intriguing, with its shy nose opening to a complex and layered palate. The fleshy plum, blackberry and black cherry is wrapped in a fine layer of dark chocolate, clove and tapenade. Mouth-filling and unctuous with soft, juicy tannins. Will still benefit from some time in bottle. Drink 2024-2030 Alc 15%
93 points

La Viña Del Abuelo, Selección Especial, Toro 2017
N/A Seeking representation in the UK
Six years on, this is still waiting to reach its peak but it already offers plenty of drinking pleasure. The intricate nose has a rose petals fragrance mingling with cherry and dried hazelnuts. Plum, red apple, pomegranate and wild strawberry fill the generous palate. Lovely garrigue notes to the finish. Drink 2023-2028 Alc 15%
93 points

Bodega Valdigal, Valdigal, Toro 2017
N/A Seeking representation in the UK
A wine that develops beautifully in the glass, revealing different layers of aroma and flavour. Good tension between crunchy and ripe fruit, topped by delicate floral notes. The trademark liquorice character of Tinta de Toro comes through in the finish. Tannins are a touch drying, but balanced by refreshing acid. One for braised meats.
Drink 2023-2030 Alc 15%
92 points

Coral Duero, Las Parvas, Toro 2017
£60 The General Wine Company Ltd
Very distinct nose; fresh, vegetal character with tomato leaf and bell pepper over blackberry, plum and liquorice. Full-bodied and mouth-filling, with a robust tannic structure and intense black fruit showcasing the concentration and depth yielded by old vines. Gentle smokiness and dried herbs add savoury nuance. Drink 2024-2027 Alc 14.9%
91 points

Bodegas Numanthia, Termanthia, Toro 2016
POA Moet Hennessy UK
Elegant and poised with great purity and definition of fruit. Crunchy wild strawberries, raspberries and redcurrants mingle on the palate, framed by gravelly, mineral tannins. Hints of cardamom, clove and salty liquorice start to emerge. Beautiful, strong acid line throughout. A wine still in its infancy, that will deliver great complexity in years to come. Drink 2024-2035 Alc 15%
94 points

Monte De La Reina, Vendimia Seleccionada, Toro 2016
£23.50 Experience Wine
Seductive, deep nose of plum, Earl Grey tea and sweet liquorice. The palate is soft and generous, with silky tannins carrying the blackberry, prune and cherry flavours. The liquorice note, lined with a touch of sweet spice, dried herbs and tobacco, lingers on the palate, framing the long finish. Drink 2024-2032 Alc 14.5%
93 points

Heredad De Urueña, Moisés Gran Vino, Toro 2015
POA Seeking representation in the UK
At once classical and modern, this textbook Tinta de Toro is surprisingly fresh and lively eight years after harvest. Pomegranate, watermelon, blood orange, red apple and plum flavours remain well defined and vibrant. The back palate has a gentle, broody spiciness. The trademark salty liquorice plays in the foreground. Drink 2024-2033 Alc 15.5%
93 points

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