Growers who picked early were rewarded with classic Chardonnays of energy, purity and definition, from village level to grands crus, writes Sarah Marsh MW. Puligny-Montrachet performed exceptionally well in 2009, with wonderful balance of fruit and minerality. Some high vineyards near Blagny showed well, and the grands crus from both here and Chassagne-Montrachet are splendidly rich and intense, but also fresh and balanced. Chassagne-Montrachet shows greater variation - from sleekly rounded wines with delicious stone fruit and perfumed palates to the slightly chubby and simple - while Meursault quality and consistency is better than in 2008, from fruity village wine to sleek, polished Les Perrières. Good year, too, for Chassagne's second division premiers crus, which are deliciously ripe and juicy, but not too fat. From Saint-Aubin, the more exposed premiers crus on the Puligny side matured quickly from ripe to overripe: some growers missed the boat; others were spot on, making scrumptious wine. Expect invitingly ripe, svelte and streamlined Corton-Charlemagne, and attractive, citrussy Pernand-Vergelesses, while Chalonnais wines, particularly Rully and Montagny, have fresher, livelier fruit than in 2008. (Sarah Marsh's full pick of the vintage appears in Decanter magazine Jan 2011, on sale now.)
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Written by Decanter
