Friuli Pinot Grigio: 13 top wines to try
Drink again. As Stephen Brook found on a recent trip to Friuli, there is a nucleus of winemakers crafting Pinot Grigios on the slopes of Friuli with more poise and persistence than its bland alter-ego ever had.
Friuli Venezia Giulia is a vast region, taking in the flat alluvial lands around Pordenone and Udine in the west, and the maritime flatlands of Aquiliea and Latisana near the huge Marano Lagoon. Here the wines tend to be well made but, with a few exceptions, they rarely rise to great heights. The problem is one of yields: at least 75 hectolitres/ hectare and thus not ludicrously high, but high enough to limit ripening and flavour. (An IGT Pinot Grigio can be cropped at up to 190hl/ha. Water indeed.) The wines tend to be characterised by blandness. Even Marco Rabino of Ca’ Bolani, one of the largest producers, admits that its Pinot Grigio is made to be drunk within two years.
See Stephen Brook’s 13 top Friuli Pinot Grigio wines:
Lis Neris, Gris, Friuli, Isonzo, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2011
95
Sumptuous apple and mango nose. Quite exotic. Creamy apple compote flavours on the palate, opulent but not heavy. Spicy and complex, with a seductive texture and limpid, lifted finish. Good length.
2011
Lis NerisFriuli
Vie di Romans, Dessimis, Isonzo, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2012
95
<p>Pale copper-pink. Rich, nutty pear nose. Creamy, powerful and spicy, with a juicy texture, yet has pungency and fine balancing acidity. Very long.</p>
2012
Vie di Romans
Livon, Braide Grande, Collio, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2013
93
Ripe, spicy nose, pear crumble. Swaggering palate. With great breadth of fruit, this is concentrated but accessible, with fine acidity to balance the wine. Pure pleasure and fine length.
2013
Livon
Schiopetto, Collio, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2011
93
Subtle, floral, ripe pear nose. Rich, creamy and concentrated, with fine but discreet acidity. Delicious fruit, nutty but bright and elegant. Long.
2011
Schiopetto
Toros, Collio, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2013
93
Bracing melon and mango nose, seems oaky although it is unoaked. Firm and concentrated, with extract and vigour, ample personality and good length.
2013
Toros
Branko, Collio, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2013
91
Heady floral nose with ripe apple fruit. Good attack, lively but also has weight and concentration, with just a hint of sweetness. Balanced and long.
2013
Branko
Dario Princic, Collio, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2006
91
Coppery colour. Startling nose of strawberry, honey and flowers. Medium-bodied, with a grape-skin burr, moderate acidity, and a firm dry finish. Biodynamic.
2006
Dario Princic
La Tunella, Colli Orientali, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2013
91
Perfumed citrus and apple nose. Concentrated and suave, yet has firm underlying acidity. Fresh and citric but shows some mineral complexity and fine length.
2013
La Tunella
Livio Felluga, Colli Orientali, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2013
91
Delicate pear nose, pretty and elegant. Suave and juicy, with depth. Intense with a long spicy finish. Finesse.
2013
Livio Felluga
Marco Felluga, Mongris, Collio, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2013
91
<p>Rich, heady pear nose. Full-bodied and concentrated, with plump pear fruit. Spicy and long, with potential to age.</p>
2013
Marco Felluga
Ronco del Gelso, Sot lis Rivis, Isonzo, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2012
91
Stern but ripe apple and melon nose. Plump and rounded, close to overripe with a hint of sweetness. Creamy, tangy, long finish.
2012
Ronco del Gelso
Venica & Venica, Jesera, Collio, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2013
91
Opulent, appley nose. Firm and dry, a touch austere now and lightly phenolic, concentrated and textured. Quite long with a spicy finish.
2013
Venica & Venica
