Rustenberg, Five Soldiers Chardonnay, Stellenbosch, South Africa 2020

New to Waitrose, this is a noticeable step up from the good-value straight Rustenberg Chardonnay, also in the Waitrose range. New World Chardonnay lovers – you know who you are! – make a beeline for this wine, named after the vineyard where the grapes are grown, a vineyard overlooked by five tall pine trees (hence the name). Grapes are handpicked, whole bunch pressed and wild fermented in barrel, aged on lees with 100% malolactic fermentation. The wine then spends 15 months in oak, 70% new. Gorgeous cream cracker and buttery nose, some wild ferment yeasty character, and lemon citrus brightness of fruit. Toasty, creamy and luxuriant, but fresh at the same time. Would go down a treat with lobster.