A wine lover’s guide to Shoalhaven Coast
Blessed with sun, white sandy beaches, reserves and protected coves, Shoalhaven is a nature lover’s paradise. Michelle Tchea discovers the best places to eat, drink and stay – and wineries to visit – along the south coast of New South Wales.
Most people who travel to Sydney hit the beaches for the most quintessential Aussie itinerary. Bondi is iconic, Byron is a must and Crescent Head is for surfers who want to catch a gnarly wave.
But jump in a car and head south from Sydney and you’ll find some of the most pristine beaches in the country, with more than 100km of coastline featuring protected coves, inlets and lagoons. The area known as the south coast of New South Wales is so untouched and miles away from the hustle and bustle of Sydney that there are even chances of spotting whales and dolphins.
On the wine trail
Vineyards at Two Figs Winery
The small but mighty Shoalhaven Coast Wine Trail takes you from Kiama down to Bawley Point. The region is blessed with a unique maritime climate and cool coastal winds give Shoalhaven wines freshness, subtle elegance and complexity.
The main varietal here is Chambourcin, a versatile red French-American hybrid grape that’s highly resistant to the strong winds and fluctuating temperatures. However Chardonnay is also popular among winemakers, as is Cabernet Sauvignon, made in a lighter style thanks to the coastal climate.
‘What makes Shoalhaven special is that it’s still a relatively young wine region in New South Wales, and it’s largely made up of independent, family-run businesses,’ says Libby Cupitt, second generation winemaker at Cupitt’s Estate. ‘There’s a real sense that everyone is shaping it in their own way, often tied closely to the lifestyle here. Here you can finish work and then head for a swim, a surf or a snorkel,’ she adds.
Heading inland
Tasting at Silos Estate
I stuck to the coastline during my south coast wine tour, but if you go further inland, you will hit Yarrawa which overlooks Kangaroo Valley; Lyrebird (between Kangaroo Valley and Nowra); and Cambewarra Estate at the foothills of the Cambewarra Mountain.
Husband-and-wife Mark and Sue Foster founded the intimate Yarrawa winery in 1998. Chardonnay aged in new French oak barrels and a sustainably grown, peppery Chambourcin are on offer here. But it’s hard to beat the fresh and velvety Sierra Rosé, also made from Chambourcin.
Directly on the Princes Freeway is Silos Estate. Since 1984, the small vineyard just outside of Berry has been a destination for art-lovers, families and gourmets. The estate has sculpture by Elyssa Sykes-Smith, alpacas for kids to cuddle and a fine-dining restaurant. Much like all the boutique wineries in the region, sustainability is high on the agenda here.
The estate has been self-sustaining since 2010 with all the energy for the winery, accommodation and cellar door generated from solar or wind power. Alongside the award-winning Chardonnay and dessert wines such as Shiraz-based Sticky Wicket, you’ll also find charging stations for vehicles.
Coastal wineries
Winemaking at Cupitts Estate
Off the Princes Highway and close to the beach on Shoalhaven Heads, you’ll find three more wineries worth a visit: Two Figs Vineyard, Coolangatta Estate and Mountain Ridge. All estates offer a tempting array of wines to taste from Chamboucin to Semillon – and there’s even a gin at Two Figs.
But if there’s just one winery to visit in the region, head further south to Cupitt’s Estate in Ulladulla. Originally a working dairy farm, the estate is now owned by entrepreneurs Rosie and Griff Cupitt, who wanted to bring a European flavour to the south coast of New South Wales. So rather than your regular Semillon and Shiraz, the Cupitts make wines with Italian varietals. Single-vineyard expressions include Vermentino, Arneis, Fiano and Montepulciano – all sourced from growers in the cool-climate Hilltops region of southern New South Wales.
‘We’ve spent a lot of time travelling through Italy and what has stayed with us is how much the Italians prioritise joy, food, friends and family. That really resonates with how we live here,’ says Rosie. ‘Varieties like Fiano, Vermentino, Arneis and Sangiovese just fit our coastal lifestyle. They also make sense from a growing perspective. We need varieties that can handle dry conditions, but also cope when we get high rainfall. Mediterranean grapes are well suited to that, which feels important as the climate continues to shift.’
My Perfect Day on the Shoalhaven Coast
Morning
Start your day with a swim or surf at one of the iconic beaches in the area. Mollymook, Seven Miles Beach and even whale-spotting on Jervis Bay will not disappoint. If you’re peckish, pop into Berry and hit up one of the bakeries in the village, before heading out to your first winery in Shoalhaven Heads, where three estates are located within a relatively short distance of each other. Two Figs, Coolangatta Estate and Mountain Ridge Winery (see above) can all be visited without having to drive too far. But don’t rush – the best should be savoured.
Lunch & afternoon
Drive south for an hour to Cupitt's Estate for tasting and lunch. Try a Fiano or Montepulciano at the cellar door, before heading to the Dining Room for a seasonal lunch with dishes such as Sydney rock oysters, Vannella burrata with a fennel and Chardonnay jam, and wild-caught barramundi (see below).
Evening
From there it’s a short hop north to your accommodation at Bannisters By The Sea in Mollymook (see below). Book a treatment in the Spa By The Sea or head to the beach for an evening swim. Then return for a cocktail and dinner at Rick Stein at Bannisters (see below).
Where to stay
Bannisters By The Sea in Mollymook
Sitting on Seven Miles Beach, there are 16 private luxury suites with kitchenettes and a large lounge area overlooking a private golf course.
A beachside resort perched high on a hill with panoramas of the sea. Treat yourself to a stay in the penthouse, styled by Aussie designer, Collette Dinnigan.
A bit of Palm Springs in the heart of country New South Wales – why not? A delightful family-run boutique retreat in Mossy Point with a private golf course and top-notch restaurant.
Where to eat
The Dining Room at Cupitt's Estate
Enjoy kangaroos hopping in the countryside as you relax in the award-winning restaurant at The Oaks Ranch, sipping local wines and eating wagyu beef sourced from nearby farms.
The seasonal farm-to-table menu pays homage to local producers with a slight European twist.
A local seafood-focused restaurant by celebrity chef Rick Stein, with dishes such as stir-fried Jervis Bay mussels and grilled Ulladulla snapper.
How to get there
The best way to get to Shoalhaven is by car and taking a self-guided tour of the region. The region is approximately two hours from both Canberra and Sydney Airport. Once in the region, park your car at your hotel if you don’t have a designated driver and take Uber or join a Shire Shuttle Bus tour to visit local cellar doors. My recommendation is to hire a private driver like Nicole from Local Rides, a born and raised Shoalhaven resident, who provided excellent intel on the region plus friendly, professional and flexible pick-ups and drop-offs.
For more information visit Shoalhaven Coast Wine
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