Decanter World Wine AwardsBiondi Santi, Nardi hint at 'yes' vote in Montalcino
- Friday 2 September 2011
Montalcino
While Nicolas Belfrage MW, James Suckling, Jancis Robinson MW and many other critics decry the notion as heretical – it would ‘pollute’ Rosso to allow Merlot or Syrah into the blend, Robinson said – others disagree.
Franco Biondi Santi, one of Montalcino’s eminences grises, has not changed his position since he said nearly three years ago that blended Rosso di Montalcino could work.
‘Since I know the land of Montalcino very well,’ he emailed Decanter.com yesterday, ‘I can confirm that small additions of other vines (Merlot, etc…) could balance the wine in small percentages.’
Emilia Nardi, of Tenute Silvio Nardi, refused to say which way she would be voting when the Montalcino Consorzio meets on Wednesday, but agreed that ‘for some producers it can be helpful to add another variety’ in some circumstances.
‘Sangiovese is a difficult grape variety, and Rosso di Montalcino can be seen as a poor brother of Brunello. It is important to make good wine, just as it is important to respect tradition. It is a very difficult decision,’ she said. ‘I will decide how to vote at the last minute, after listening to all the arguments.’
Nardi did say that she thought making Rosso into a three-tiered denomination was ‘not necessary’.
‘It wouldn’t be helpful for the market – we need to present the wine as a simple idea.’
Other producers are set against change. Francesco Marone Cinzano of Col d’Orcia said today, ‘It is important to keep Rosso as unique as Brunello. Sangiovese is a recessive variety – it lets itself be overwhelmed – so Rosso would quickly lose its identity.’
Next Wednesday , members of the Consorzio will vote on whether to change to a two-tier or three-tier denomination for Rosso di Montalcino, one tier of which in each case would allow international varieties in the blend.
Some – like journalist Jeremy Parzen on his blog dobianchi.com – argue that this is a fait accompli as ‘the option not to change the appellation regulations is not on the table.
In fact, Decanter.com understands, the first vote on Wednesday is to decide on whether or not to change the denomination. The substance of the changes will be decided after that.
Have your say!
Francesco Marone Cinzano
September 06 14:49
BREAKING NEWS: Franco Biondi Santi speaks out against proposed Montalcino changes
http://dobianchi.com/2011/09/06/breaking-news-franco-biondi-santi-speaks-out-against-proposed-montalcino-changes/
Franco Ziliani
September 06 11:40
I have talked at telephone with Franco Biondi Santi who has changed his position since he said nearly three years ago that blended Rosso di Montalcino could work. In this moment the “Signore of Brunello”, the symbol of Montalcino wines confirm me – read my article here http://bit.ly/nZXfEm - that is unswervingly against any idea to add other grapes than Sangiovese and change the rules of production of Rosso di Montalcino. The Rosso di Montalcino must be still produced only with Sangiovese grapes from Montalcino.
Jason Korman
September 05 14:05
There are two ways to look at regulations like these: 1) Where local ordinances dictate what people must do in order to keep the playing field level and encourage homogenous product or 2) Allow the winemakers to take the initiative to create what is possible. Ultimately, it will then come down to who is smarter, more skilled and most creative. The top- down dictation of varieties is a throw back to time long past. Today, producers should be able to express themselves and what they represent as they wish. This disruptive model has shown to work over and over again.
Just because something has 'always been that way' doesn't make it right. The only reason not to allow the change is fear of the unknown.
It looks to me that the most capable guys are in favor of the change.
Steve Lavender
September 05 14:02
Outrageous adulteration! I shall limit my future purchases of Rosso (one of my favourite table wines) to wines which don't blend.