In a series of two articles, we sat down with producers from Utiel-Requena, at a period of great transformation and challenges across the wine industry, to hear how their projects have evolved and persevered in a sea of change.
In the first instalment we discovered how longstanding projects have tackled difficulties while remaining committed to social and environmental sustainability. But what makes Utiel-Requena unique and singularly positioned to be a wine region for and of the future?
We thought no one better than ‘outsiders’, who developed roots in Utiel-Requena by choice rather than by default, to give a frank overview of the DO’s appeal and potential. Yves Laurijssens of De Moya, Maria Sancho of Montesanco and Reyes Corbi of Clos Cor Ví explain why Utiel-Requena became the place to define themselves as winemakers and entrepreneurs.
The interviews below have been edited and condensed for clarity.
De Moya founder Yves Laurijssens and family | Courtesy of the producer
Bodega De Moya
Discover more about De Moya here.
Decanter: How does a Belgian end up with a winery (and a family) in Utiel-Requena?
Yves Laurijssens: In 2011 I came to Spain with a desire to make wine. I had three essential criteria: a place where I could produce a full-bodied red; somewhere different than the usual suspects (Rioja, Ribera del Duero, etc), that could appeal to a new generation of drinkers interested in different places and stories; a region that could deliver what I like to call ‘affordable luxury’, meaning great quality at a competitive price.
I traveled for nine months across Spain. It was a great, fun experience – this was right after the financial crisis; the country’s economy was very depressed but there were also many opportunities.
One day, I was in Valencia having a chat with a professor at the university and he said: ‘I think I have what you are looking for: Utiel-Requena and Bobal.’
Things moved relatively quickly after that. [Because of the crisis] many growers were willing to sell their vineyards.
And what was supposed to become a side project became De Moya! Big enough to be cost effective and small enough for us to really care about every single step in the production of our wines.
How big is De Moya now?
We have 70ha in total, all bought from old farmers. And we built our winery from scratch, allowing us to tailor it to our needs and really experiment.
Why did you name the project De Moya?
We named it after Casals de Moya, the village in and around which most of our vineyards are located.
How did you adapt to life in Utiel-Requena? How did the local community receive you?
What’s not to love here! We settled really well; my children are now definitely more Spanish than they are Belgian.
At first [local] people were hesitant about this strange Belgian buying old vineyards nobody wanted. Change is always scary but we learn a lot from each other.
What were/are your main challenges – now and then?
At first the challenges were operational: finding the farmers that were willing to sell; setting up from the ground up.
Now the challenges are behavioural, with people drinking and spending less.
How about climate change?
It’s of course a challenge. But that’s also one of the reasons we chose Utiel-Requena: the potential to produce good – but different – wines, now and in the future.
The profile of the wines is changing; Bobal is increasingly suited to produce full-bodied red wines.
What are your goals and/or vision for the future?
To increase the production of white wines and improve the quality of Bobal, by continuing to do the work [we’re doing] and carrying out more studies.
Luís Corbi Coloma, founder of Clos Cor Ví, and daughter Reyes Corbi | Courtesy of the producer
Clos Cor Ví
Read more about Cor Ví’s history, identity and wines here.
Decanter: What were the factors and motivations that led you to invest and establish roots in Utiel-Requena? What is the potential and uniqueness of the region?
Reyes Corbi: When we decided to expand the Clos Cor Ví project beyond our initial white wines [prestige iterations of international white varieties such as Riesling and Viognier], we looked for a place that combined terroir, authenticity, winemaking history, and real potential to create unique wines.
Utiel-Requena offered that and more: a land with a true winemaking soul; a unique indigenous variety in Bobal; the chance to recover and work with old vines. In Los Isidros we found plots steeped in history, with vines that held decades of memories – bringing them back to life was a source of both emotional and technical motivation. We believed – and continue to believe – that the future lies in rescuing winemaking heritage, not replacing it.
This has allowed us to grow with sacrificing our identity, in a setting with extraordinary natural conditions.
What were the main challenges you faced?
Recovering old vineyards and converting them into organic farming [was not easy]; the property was very run down. Adapting to organics and encouraging biodiversity was, and remains, a key technical challenge. Given that we produce a very limited number of bottles with a very artisanal approach, we must balance our ambition for quality with economic sustainability.
And now of course there are the challenges around climate change. In an area like Cabriel, with a hard soil and Mediterranean climate, organic farming requires a very careful management of water and soil health.
How are you tackling those challenges?
We’ve developed a clear strategy based, first and foremost, on organic, sustainable, artisanal winegrowing. We’re also looking at how our portfolio can evolve and become more diverse, betting on indigenous varieties and limited editions. The development of wine tourism is another important way of adding value to our project and brand; through our experiences we create a community, increase consumer trust and add another revenue stream. Finally, we also intend to invest in internationalisation and the expansion of our export markets.
What impact can a project like Cor Vi have on the local community?
A project like Clos Cor Ví coexists with, and keeps transforming, the territory it is part of. In our case, the impact on the Utiel-Requena community – and especially on the hamlet of Los Isidros in particular – is structured around four main dimensions: economic (employment, use of local suppliers, tourism); social (fostering a sense a sense of belonging, cohesion, pride, and combating depopulation); cultural (preservation of tradition, renovation of old vineyards, and education in sustainability and quality); environmental (organic viticulture and biodiversity).
What are your goals and/or vision for the future?
We want to consolidate our positioning as a leading boutique winery. Part of that will entail strengthening our red wine range, while maintaining our high-quality and unique white wines. And invest in tourism as a wine-centric experience. Overall we want to keep asserting who and what we are: organic; minimal intervention; respectful of the environment; old vines.
María Sancho and Paco Cotino, the husband-and-wife team behind Montesanco | Courtesy of the producer
Bodega Montesanco
Read more about Montesanco’ history, identity and wines here.
Decanter: How has Montesanco evolved in the last decade?
María Sancho: Montesanco produced its first wine in 2016 (Món Bobal), released in 2018. Our project is relatively new and in the last few years we’ve been focusing on commercial development, both in the domestic and international markets. We’ve also expanded our range, produced other single-varietal wines (Món Macabeo, Món Tempranillo, Món Monastrell Rosado) with the DO Utiel-Requena stamp, working under organic and biodynamic farming principles,
How do you see the future of Montesanco and of DO Utiel-Requena? Where do you see more opportunities?
The situation for wine producers in Spain (and beyond!) is very challenging – DO Utiel-Requena is of course not immune to such challenges. But there are great opportunities here, especially the development of wine tourism as a way to present and sell the wines with added value and greater connection with the final consumer. And there’s also the chance to develop the on-trade market in Valencia, which is very close and in very good health.
You’re not originally from Utiel-Requena. What made you invest and establish roots here? What makes Utiel-Requena unique?
We are from Valencia and were always drawn to the viticultural heritage of the region. Its potential – with great sites at higher altitude and interesting indigenous varieties – is undeniable.
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