Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur Sweet Whites Score Table

Château Doisy-Daëne, l'Extravagant de Doisy-Daëne

Barsac

2023

98

With a potential for a higher score, as it is that good, this 100% Sauvignon Barsac displays vivid pink grapefruit, orchard peach and tangerine with focused botrytis derived spices of nutmeg, saffron and green peppercorn, with amazing energy (5.4 grams of acidity per litre) leading to a long, echoing finish with gorgeous lift. Crafted from grapes picked with the most highly developed 'noble rot', but reflecting the cooler side of the 2023 vintage, the result is excellent balance, reflecting the exceptional finesse of the porous limestone subsoils of Barsac. Fermentation in 100% new oak barrels. 195g of residual sugar per litre.

Château Coutet

Barsac (1er Cru Classé)

2023

97

Superb Barsac energy and keen spice, almost Cayenne pepper with pronounced ginger, clove and both dry and fresh fig. Tasted twice with the same beguiling results, this wonderful wine exudes balance that reflects both opulence and verve (165 grams per litre of residual sugar, 3.66pH). The acidity makes this wine vivacious and mouthwatering so try with Thai curry or Szechuan cuisine - or just on its own. A vibrant, late harvest Barsac and a top wine of the vintage.

Château de Fargues

Sauternes

2023

97

A top wine among the Sauternes and Barsac, with gorgeous aromatics and flavours of acacia, beeswax, white flower, peach, "soft" cinnamon, crème brulé (more custard than brulé), lemon meringue, (sweet) pink grapefruit and black tea, the palate evinces energy with balance, sans flatness or flabbiness. In short, an exciting wine. The depth of its pedigree shines with a lifting, tangerine finish. With 145 grams of residual sugar per liter and 4.7 grams of acidity, the pH at 4 is quite high but it all works out: Tasted twice, both similarly superb!

Château Suduiraut

Sauternes (1er Cru Classé)

2023

97

A top-notch Sauternes this vintage, with both exuberance and finesse in vivid - and clean - aromas and flavours of pear, apricot, pineapple, mango, mandarin peel and ginger, cinnamon and bergamot tea. The palate combines opulence with the fine acidity of the 2023 vintage, as the estate handled the late summer heat wave and went through the vineyard three times, to be sure to get the best botrytis. Long finish, and potential for higher score once bottled. Ageing in 50% new oak for about 18 months. 150 grams of residual sugar.

Château Raymond-Lafon

Sauternes

2023

96

As with other estates in Sauternes, Château Raymond Lafon harvested most grapes in October to benefit from a wave of botrytis. The wine is a balanced expression of fresh cut pineapple, orange clementine, pomelo, quince jelly, almond cake and cinnamon. Co-owner Jean-Pierre Meslier explained how harvesters removed scalded grapes during the late summer heat wave, but the result is excellent, with plenty acidity for freshness and 150 grams of residual sugar per litre.

Château Bastor-Lamontagne

Sauternes

2023

95

One of the best en primeur wines I have had from this often over-performing estate, exuding ginger, clove, black tea, orange rind confit, pear and apricot. Excellent verve from the majority Sauvignon Blanc and that palate freshness and acidity does not have any overbearing sweetness but rather a fine palate texture with mid-palate richness. With 135 grams of residual sugar, 4.3 grams of total acidity and 3.75pH.

Château Nairac

Barsac (2ème Cru Classé)

2023

95

A superb second growth, with peach, pear and citrus freshness. The layered palate combines opulence with plenty of zing to keep you on your toes, and ends with bright fruit, ginger, and a hint of Cayenne pepper on the long finish. Ageing in 30% new oak will broaden the palate even more but the high acidity ensures a long life (along with the 150 grams of residual sugar per litre). Tasted twice with similar results.

Domaine de L'Alliance

Sauternes

2023

95

A wine to buy for its excellent price/quality ratio along, this 90% Sémillon-based wine from a 14ha vineyard in Fargues evinces a cornucopia of aromas and flavours imbued with botrytis spice, including grapefruit, black tea and ginger. I love its fresh, crispy aspect, like so much autumnal freshness. It lacks the opulent mid palate of the very top wines of Sauternes and Barsac, but this balanced sweet wine shows excellent palate tension (and fun), at 13.3 alcohol with 143 grams of residual sugar and 4.3 grams of total acidity.

Château Climens

Barsac (1er Cru Classé)

2023

94

A question mark for this venerable Barsac Premier Cru: Despite their best efforts, respecting biodynamic practices, the château team lost about 75% of the harvest to mildew, including top, old-vine Sémillon grapes (a miniscule yield of 2.7hl/ha) and the cloudy sample that I tried, exuding fine and fresh pineapple and orange notes, lacked expected energy. While very good, it seems to underperform in 2023, at least based on the sample that I had. It has 130 grams per litre of residual sugar and 4 grams of total acidity and a pH of 3.8. Ageing in 100% new oak.

Château d'Arche

Sauternes (2ème Cru Classé)

2023

94

Another excellent Sauternes that would fall into the freshness category, which works better for most people these days, along with botrytis derived black tea and ginger spice. I love the freshness and poise and accompanied by bright orange and touches of white stone fruit on the palate, albeit not as suave as the white apricot expressed in some of the more successful Sauternes tasted. For the price, however, you cannot go wrong! With 148 grams of residual sugar, 4.9 grams per litre of total acidity and 3.85 pH.

Château Doisy-Daëne

Barsac (2ème Cru Classé)

2023

94

With some variation among the three samples I tried, this Barsac is lighter on its feet aromatically and on the palate than usual, with candied lemon and lime freshness, meringue, butterscotch sweetness and peppermint spice. Owner Jean-Jacques Dubourdieu notes excellent botrytis when speaking about the wine, which exceptionally includes 10% Sauvignon Blanc in what is normally 100% Sémillon), and this accounts for a bit more freshness and lightness than usual. While lacking the depth of fellow Barsac Château Coutet, this is nonetheless an excellent Barsac.

Château Doisy-Védrines

Barsac (2ème Cru Classé)

2023

94

While sample variations give pause, one thing is certain: the palate explodes with cinnamon, apricot and honey for a rather thick yet vibrant texture, echoing sweet peach and honeyed mango on the long finish. The 150 grams per litre of residual sugar are well balanced by the 4.45 grams of acidity (3.7 pH).

Château La Tour Blanche

Sauternes (1er Cru Classé)

2023

94

Despite very low yields, this estate managed to craft a lovely Sauternes, with plenty of rich pineapple and mango and some subtle botrytis spice, with a pleasing finish evoking white pepper, clove and candied lemon. While not among the most intense and deep Sauternes in this vintage, it has the potential for a higher score, after the barrel ageing.

Château de Rayne Vigneau

Sauternes (1er Cru Classé)

2023

93

A lovely Sauternes with acacia, honeysuckle, lemon cake and sweet pepper and ginger, very expressive and with vivacity and richness, although I get more of the latter, with plenty of crème brulée opulence. 160 grams of residual sugar per litre.

Château Rieussec

Sauternes (1er Cru Classé)

2023

93

For the pedigree, a disappointing sample that conveys richness to be sure - with delectable apricot and other white stone fruit aromas and flavours, along with botrytis spice, but it could use more balancing vibrancy. The sample I tried seems a bit stationary, lacking the verve from the top Sauternes. With 148 grams of residual sugar per litre.

Château Broustet

Barsac (2ème Cru Classé)

2023

92

This gets a rather conservative score, as I tasted three separate samples on three separate occasions, with three different experiences! The best displayed lovely salinity and ginger spice along with pleasing notes of white stone fruit, acacia and honey. Two other samples were heavier on the palate. With 150 grams of residual sugar per litre, 13.8% alcohol, 4 of acidity and a 3.9pH (the highest I encountered), the numbers indicate a wine that is not among the most zingy tasted, but still quite good.

Château Sigalas Rabaud

Sauternes (1er Cru Classé)

2023

92

I like the energy and poise in this Sauternes, with vivid aromas and flavours of honeyed white peach, tropical fruit and pineapple. But it lacks enough of the exciting botrytis spice and vivacious tension to join the upper echelons. A solid and even excellent wine, to enjoy upon release or wait for more complexity over time. With 140 grams of residual sugar per litre.

Château Haut-Bergeron

Sauternes

2023

91

Fine botrytis-derived cinnamon and clove, with palate richness and balancing acidity. While well above the average among all Sauternes tasted, a bit of mid palate (sweet) flabbiness lacks the intensity and vivacity of top Sauternes and Barsacs in this vintage. Tasted twice with same results. With 145 grams of residual sugar per litre, 4.5 grams of acidity a 3.4pH.

Château de Rayne Vigneau, Madame de Rayne

Sauternes

2023

90

Talk about a value Sauternes that comes across light but with personality, this is it! Combines white stone fruit and light toffee and custard with good acidity to keep the wine balanced, even if not as deep or long on the finish as the grand vin.

Château Romer du Hayot

Sauternes (2ème Cru Classé)

2023

90

With lovely aromas of roasted pineapple, blood red orange and white flower, the palate comes across in a medium gear, not quite meeting the aromatic expectations from the sample that I tried. A solid if not spectacular Sauternes, with 129 grams of residual sugar per litre.

Château Cantegril

Sauternes

2023

89

The sweetness factor is definite, with honeyed peach, fig, even some dry apricot aspects, but I miss the verve for balance, especially from the Barsac appellation that is known for being more sprightly than Sauternes. But for the price, this represents a solid wine. Ageing nine months in barrel and then nine more months in stainless steel before bottling.