Bordeaux 2025: A bijou but precise vintage in St-Julien
A difficult flowering led to tiny berries which has severely reduced quantities this vintage, but St-Julien's producers recovered their poise to deliver wines of personality and freshness.
At a glance: St-Julien 2025
Average yield: 26.4hl/ha (very low – one of the lowest of the major appellations).
Tiny yields comparable to Pomerol and among the smallest ever recorded for several estates, driven by tiny bunches after 2024 flowering issues and prolonged summer drought.
St-Julien delivered classic poise and personality in 2025.
The appellation’s gravel soils with pockets of clay provided good drainage yet retained enough moisture through the dry summer to support even ripening, while the late-August rains and cool September nights preserved acidity and delivered the vintage’s signature freshness.
Nonetheless, yields were among the lowest ever for some estates (20–28 hl/ha range), but the resulting wines show supple tannins, vibrant colour, stony grip and excellent balance – elegant, structured and age-worthy, with the low pH/fresh acidity and fine tannins that define successful St-Julien vintages.
Sara Lecompte Cuvelier owner of Château Léoville Poyferré highlighted, ‘the unusual balance between concentration, fruit and freshness’ and noted she, ‘didn’t expect low alcohols and so much freshness’.
Mathieu Bordes director of Château Lagrange called the 2025 vintage the ‘fourth warmest ever’ with a ‘cooler September’ leading to their ‘earliest harvest ever’. and noted the smallest berries since 1984, the shortest maceration in 19 years, and a style ‘like 2009 on the attack’.
Tiny quantities
Tasting samples at Château Léoville Poyferré
Although yields fell across Bordeaux, a striking fact about St-Julien is how many were lower even than in 2013 – a year marked by poor weather and ruined crops.
Château Langoa Barton recorded a yield of 20hl/ha – ‘worse than 2013’ – with maturation blocked by lack of water until the August rain.
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Sister property, Château Léoville Barton, which this year celebrates 200 years of Barton family ownership, likewise produced a yield of 22hl/ha, ‘one of the lowest ever’. Even the poor 2013 vintage conditions produced a yield of 27hl/ha.
Jean-Michel Laporte at Château Talbot reported a yield of 28.3hl/ha – ‘one of the lowest since 2013’.
Part of the issue was berry size, as noted by Mathieu Bordes. At Château Ducru-Beaucaillou recorded grape weights were as low as 0.6-0.8g for Cabernet Sauvignon (in a good year 1.1-1.3g) and 0.8g-1.1g for Merlot (in a good year 1.4-1.6g).
Making wine like it's 1989
Georgie Hindle tasting at Léoville Las Cases with a view over the new barrel room
Despite a lack of quantity, Jean-Michel Laporte added more hopefully that 2025, ‘could be a year full of great bargains’.
François-Xavier Maroteaux, owner of Château Branaire-Ducru, and president of the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) described the vintage as, ‘a nice ambassador for Bordeaux – a great vintage’ that ‘will be nice for people to drink early if they want to’.
He said it has ‘impressive fragrance’ and a style where, ‘concentration could have given something similar to 2022 but finally the alcohol is not the same and the style of the tannins and freshness is more similar to 2020’.
Nicolas Sinoquet, president director general of Château Gruaud Larose said they had made ‘the wines we like, fresh and silky’.
‘The vines seem to have found the right balance this year,’ he said.
'When you pick at the right time, the wines will be as they should be’ he said, adding that the 2025 style reminds him of 1989 – ‘a wine I love a lot’.
New wineries, new wines
Château Léoville Las Cases completed its ambitious new 11,000 m² winery and cellars in time for the 2025 harvest – the first vintage overseen solely by Arnauld Hubert (Jean-Hubert’s son) after 125 years of family ownership.
The estate also produced its first white wine in the new facility (Léoville Las Cases Blanc: a blend of 50% Sémillon, 25% Roussanne and 25% Marsanne, aged 50% in barrels and 50% in amphora).
Further reading from this report
- Pomerol
- St-Emilion
- Pessac-Léognan & Graves
- Dry whites
- Crus Bourgeois
- Pauillac
- St-Estèphe
- Margaux
- Sauternes
Georgie Hindle with Sara Lecompte Cuvelier, owner of Château Léoville Poyferré
Bordeaux 2025: Top wines from St-Julien
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After studying multi-media journalism at university, Georgie started her wine career at Decanter as deputy editor of Decanter.com in 2011 where she stayed for several years covering wine news and events whilst learning about everything the wine world has to offer.
She now lives in Bordeaux in southwest France where she writes about and tastes the region's wines for Decanter. She is also editor of Decanter Premium.