Expert’s choice: New World sparkling wines
What better way to lift the spirits as we approach this most unusual of holiday seasons than with a glass of top-quality New World fizz?
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A vast range of grape varieties and techniques have created an extraordinary array of sparkling styles: from off-dry to sweet Muscat, fruity tank-fermented wines and increasingly trendy pét-nats.
Within this universe of diversity, I searched for the best examples under £30, concluding that the top wines are invariably a reflection of the know-how and grape varieties used in Champagne. However, in every country the influence of terroir and addition of locally grown grape varieties add layers of complexity and excitement.
This tasting highlights the rising quality and great diversity of styles being made all over the world. Wine lovers often default to Champagne – especially when price is not a concern – yet anyone searching for good value or something unexpected would do well to opt for New World fizz, as there is so much to explore and enjoy.
During the last three decades, Australia has elevated itself to another dimension, especially in Tasmania. The island shines not only for its quality but consistency of style. Furthermore, Australia demonstrates the ability to deliver excellent value – witness the producers below.
Despite the limited number of wines tasted from New Zealand and California, it is evident that standards in both countries are high – especially where there is the direct influence of Champagne houses such as Taittinger and Louis Roederer in California, for Domaine Carneros and Quartet respectively. Californian producers such as Gloria Ferrer, Iron Horse and Schramsberg are excelling; and further afield, Oregon and New York state are growing their reputation for sparkling wine.
It’s clear that South Africa is capable of competing against anyone in sparkling wine, and producers using other varieties, including Pinotage and Chenin Blanc, can craft products suitable for every palate and price point.
Brazil is steadily building a reputation as a serious sparkling producer. Styles vary from off-dry and sweet, Moscato-based wines to impressive traditional-method, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay-based examples. Chile’s sparkling production has been gaining momentum, with important players such as Valdivieso, Undurraga and Torres joined by Viña Carmen, Echeverria, Bouchon, Montes and Loma Larga. Blends are also benefiting from the use of Riesling, Shiraz, Cabernet Franc and local País.
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Sparkling wine production in Argentina started to be taken seriously as soon as Moët & Chandon inaugurated its first international subsidiary in 1959. Successively, a growing number of producers have entered the frame, offering good quality and diversity using Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Chenin Blanc, Malbec and Bonarda as well as Torrontés for more exuberant styles, alongside the classic Champagne grapes.
There is so much to explore, but since sparkling wines are mostly associated with celebration, the challenge is to find ways to incorporate more into our drinking repertoire and not just wait for a special occasion. If not, the sheer quality, value for money and diversity of styles should be a good enough reason to raise a glass.
Dirceu Vianna Junior MW’s top pick of New World sparkling wines
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Cave Geisse, Blanc de Blancs, Serra Gaúcha, Pinto Bandeira, Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil, 2017

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An extraordinary example of blanc de blancs, made with 100% Chardonnay that was hand-selected from a specific limestone plot that helps to provide finesse and minerality. Four years on the lees following secondary fermentation. Aromas are wonderfully limpid and inviting including citrus fruits, apples, fresh dough, cashew nuts, brioche and a hint of sweet spices. On the palate it is dry, pure and precise with a linear structure and a long mouth-watering finish.
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House of Arras, A by Arras Premium Cuvée NV, Tasmania, Australia

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Petaluma, Croser Vintage, Adelaide Hills, South Australia, Australia, 2013

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Pizzato, Vertigo Nature, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos Vinhedos, Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil, 2016

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Roederer Estate, Quartet NV, Mendocino County, Anderson Valley, California, USA

The iconic Quarted blend of Chardonnay (60%) and Pinot Noir (40%) with two years in contact with the lees. From fog-shrouded Anderson Valley this shows...
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Graham Beck, Brut Zero, Robertson, South Africa, 2012

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Cave Geisse, Rose Extra Brut, Serra Gaúcha, Pinto Bandeira, Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil, 2017

A beautiful salmon pink rose made exclusively with Pinot Noir. On the nose graceful, refined and shows inviting notes of cranberries, citrus fruits, pomegranate and...
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Cave Geisse, Metodo Tradicional Extra Brut, Serra Gaúcha, Pinto Bandeira, Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil, 2017

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Casa Boher, Extra Brut, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina

Smart looking but unusual as the bottle is dark and simply labelled as Extra Brut but, surprisingly, in the glass, we get a light rosé...
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Hunter's, MiruMiru Rose NV, Marlborough, New Zealand

92
This traditionally bottle fermented wine consists of Pinot Noir (55%), Chardonnay (42%), and Pinot Meunier (3%) and rested on lees for 18 months. Attractive pale salmon colour shows sophistication. Aromas are youthful, clean, pure and precise with wonderful aromas of cranberries, raspberries, strawberries, red cherries and delicate yeasty notes. On the palate it is dry, soft and creamy with abundance of fruit, layered complexity and a pleasant refreshing finish.
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Pizzato, Brut, Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil, 2017

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Jordan, Blanc de Blancs Special Cuvee, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2015

From cooler south and east facing slopes of Stellenbosch comes this 100% Chardonnay with two years of lees ageing. It displays attractive lemon yellow colour...
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Miolo, Millesime, Serra Gaúcha, Vale dos Vinhedos, Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil, 2012

Elegant blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (50/50) with 18 months of contact with the lees. Subtle and refined displaying delicate notes of ripe yellow...
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Zuccardi, Blanc de Blancs Cuvee Especial, Mendoza, Argentina, 2016

A great example of Argentinian sparkling made by the charismatic Zuccardi family, exclusively using Chardonnay from Tupungato, with 30 months of lees ageing. Aromas are...
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Skeggs Family, Akarua NV, Bannockburn, Central Otago, New Zealand

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Dirceu Vianna Junior MW, originally from Brazil but now based in the UK. In 2008 he became the first South American male to obtain the title of Master of Wine receiving the Viña Errazuriz Award for excellence for the Business of Wine paper. He founded Vianna Wine Resources, a company that consults for wine businesses across Europe, Africa and South America. He is also a judge at selected wine competitions, a wine educator, speaker and writer. Dirceu Vianna Junior MW was a judge at the 2019 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA), but he first judged the competition in 2009.