The name Ribera del Duero is well known by lovers of Spanish fine wines today. But in the early 20th century, it was a very different story. At that time the DO didn’t even exist and there were few wineries in this part of northwest Spain.
The story begins with Bodegas Protos, established in Ribera in 1927. The pioneers were a group of 11 childhood friends, who set up their winery in the dramatic hilltop castle town of Peñafiel. Appropriately, the winery took its name from the Greek word ‘protos’ (πρῶτος) meaning ‘first’.
The venture proved to be an immediate success, when its first vintages –1927 and 1928 were awarded gold medals at the Universal Exposition of Barcelona in 1929. No wonder the winery’s motto is ser primero: be first.
Over subsequent decades, Protos continued to pursue excellence in its wines, expanding as more families joined the venture. In 1970 it constructed a winery purpose-built for the ageing of its red wines, with over 2km of underground tunnels running beneath Peñafiel Castle.
Protos at a glance
- Established: 1927
- Vineyards: 1,600ha
- Vignerons: 250
- Employees: 65
There’s little doubt that the efforts of Protos shone a light on the potential of the whole Ribera del Duero region and the complex elegant reds it produces. Indeed the winery was once known as Protos Bodega Ribera Duero de Peñafiel; Protos graciously allowed the use of its name for the greater good when the official Ribera del Duero DO was established in 1982.
Fast-forward to today and Bodegas Protos now works with more than 250 local growers and over 1,600ha of vines – half of which it owns, the rest is managed under long-term contracts. Three of the founders’ grandchildren sit on the board of directors.
Continued success has led to the setting up of three specialised wineries: one in Ribera for reds, one in Rueda for whites and one in Cigales for rosés. The company’s stunning main winery in Peñafiel, designed by famous British architect Sir Richard Rogers and opened in 2008, hosts over 40,000 visitors a year, making it one of the region’s most-visited tourist attractions.
The award-winning Protos range of 11 wines includes fresh, zesty Verdejos from Rueda, vibrant rosados from Cigales and serious barrel-aged Tempranillo reds from Ribera del Duero. But Protos is constantly striving to improve and innovate, both in the winery – with new techniques and modern equipment – and in its vineyards.
Protos: key dates
- 1927: Protos was established, the first winery in Ribera del Duero
- 1970: Opening of an ageing winery with underground cellars, under Peñafiel castle
- 2006: Opening of a winery in Rueda for white wines
- 2008: Opening of a new winery in Peñafiel, designed by Sir Richard Rogers and Alonso Balaguer
- 2019: Protos is the most-visited winery in Ribera del Duero, with 38,000 visitors
- 2020: Opening of a new winery in Cigales for rosé wines
The team includes dedicated viticulturists and agricultural engineers, who have analysed the vineyards plot-by-plot, to determine how Tempranillo clones adapt to different soils and microclimates. This precision viticulture has allowed Protos to fine-tune its harvest dates and preserve the unique characteristics of its vines.
The company is also committed to preserving its legacy for future generations, with a dedicated environmental policy that includes converting all of its vineyards to organic agriculture. Each of its energy-efficient wineries is powered by solar farms.
This forward-thinking approach has always been at the heart of Protos. It’s an example of the pioneering spirit that enables the winery and its wines to continually evolve and deliver the quality that is exemplified in its motto: ser primero – be first.
Bodegas Protos Verdejo Rueda 2019 – 90 pts
Attractive aromas of guava, pink grapefruit and peardrops, with a hint of fennel. Rounded mid-palate, lively acidity and a long, fresh finish. Drink 2020-2022. Alc 13%
Bodegas Protos Verdejo Reserva Rueda 2018 – 92 pts
The oak masks some of the grape’s punchy aromatics, but enhances the voluptuously textural mid-palate. The fruit (grapefruit and pineapple) is most noticeable on the lively, persistent finish, which is also tinged with spice and smoke. Drink 2020-2024. Alc 13%
Bodegas Protos Reserva Ribera del Duero 2015 – 93 pts
Seems much younger than the 2014 Reserva. Plush, generous palate with notes of dried herbs and damsons. Oak spice adds complexity and richness. Grippy tannins lend support. Drink 2020-2026. Alc 15%
Bodegas Protos Gran Reserva Ribera del Duero 2012 – 90 pts
A dense, powerful wine with a nice balance of primary (dark plum and cherry) and tertiary notes (truffle, smoke, tobacco leaf). Tannins still fairly firm and a bit dry on the finish, which shows a touch of warmth. Drink 2020-2024. Alc 14%
Bodegas Protos 27 Ribera del Duero 2017 – 91 pts
Red cherry and dark plums, with just a suggestion of woody herbs and fennel and a touch of smoky oak. The tannins are quite chunky, adding heft to the palate. Drink 2020-2025. Alc 14.5%
Bodegas Protos Protos Finca El Grajo Viejo Ribera del Duero 2016 – 90 pts
A glossy, ambitious wine of great concentration and depth. Firm tannins promise longevity and there’s a generous dollop of oak spice to add complexity. So well balanced that the alcohol barely shows on the long finish. One for those who like their wines heady and powerful. Drink 2020-2030. Alc 15%
To find out more visit: www.bodegasprotos.com/en/
-
Selvanella: A Chianti Classico pioneerIn 1969, when Chianti Classico was still dominated by blends and bulk production, one estate put the name of its vineyard on the label. It was an act of conviction that still defines it today.
-
Italian cooperation: A blueprint for wine's futureStrength in unity...
-
Selvanella: A Chianti Classico pioneer
In 1969, when Chianti Classico was still dominated by blends and bulk production, one estate put the name of its vineyard on the label. It was an act of conviction that still defines it today.
-
Gavi: Piedmont’s hidden gemSponsored Content Set between the Apennines and the Ligurian coast, Gavi combines medieval charm, distinctive gastronomy and one of Italy’s finest wines.
-
Cuatro Rayas: Past-proofing the futureResponsible for the largest area under vine in Rueda, this forward-thinking wine cooperative has embraced its role as the custodian of an invaluable natural and cultural heritage.
-
Cantina Tollo: Business not as usualSponsored Content In the heart of Abruzzo, Cantina Tollo is proving that cooperatives are becoming a key source of quality wine. The benchmark producer shows how a long-term vision can balance tradition and innovation to create a truly sustainable business – and some very serious wines.
-
Two different faces of Tuscany: Castello di Radda and Cantina Fabio MottaSponsored Content For 50 years the Agricole Gussalli Beretta group has been dedicated to producing wines of the highest quality in Italy’s most prestigious wine-growing regions.
-
Tenuta Il Finale – Shining a spotlight on Piedmont’s land and grapesSponsored Content A friendship forged through the world of business led three wine lovers to the steep hills of Piedmont, where they are championing the region’s local varieties.
-
Bordeaux whites and crémants: Energy, freshness and renewalSponsored Content A deep dive into the new-wave dry white and sparkling wines from a region undergoing a vibrant renaissance creating crisp, lively expressions that blend Atlantic freshness, historical roots, and modern innovation for everyday enjoyment.
-
Explore Spain with Pata NegraSponsored Content Celebrate the exciting diversity of the Spanish wine scene with the pioneering umbrella brand that brings together a selection of top denominations under just one label. The Pata Negra range allows you to explore regions from Rioja to Rueda – and beyond.
