Superb Alsace grand cru Rieslings from two unique vintages
While different in character and a decade apart, these Alsace grand cru Riesling wines from the 2022 and 2012 vintages wowed our judges and scored highly.
Thierry Meyer, Vincenzo Arnese and Claire Thevenot MS tasted 81 wines, with 2 Exceptional, 8 Outstanding and 54 Highly recommended
Alsace grand cru Riesling: Panel tasting scores
81 wines tasted
Exceptional 2
Outstanding 8
Highly recommended 54
Recommended 14
Commended 3
Fair 0
Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their dry Riesling wines from any Alsace grand cru, from both the 2012 and 2022 vintages
Terroir and temperature to the fore
Trimbach’s Geisberg Grand Cru vineyards, above Ribeauvillé
This was a highly successful tasting in which 79% of the entries scored 90 points or more, including two Exceptional wines (see recommendations, below), and an impressive 22 scored 93-94pts.
The high scores were evenly distributed between the two vintages: 2022 and 2012. The vintages’ distinct climatic characters were on show, as well as strong terroir typicity from certain grands crus – it was an insight into how different terroirs performed across different climatic conditions.
And while reputed growers produced wonderful wines in both vintages, the tasting showed that lesser-known houses also produced very good, more affordable wines.
In the hot 2022 vintage, hilltop vineyards and marl-based terroirs were particularly successful.
Grands crus such as Furstentum, Rangen, Schlossberg and Zinnkoepflé, with areas at higher elevations, up to 400m or more, were less affected by the heat.
Most wines with character from this vintage are already drinking well. In contrast, 2012 was cooler and more classic, and only wines from fully ripened fruit have evolved positively.
‘The quality across both vintages was remarkable’
From left: Maxime and Thierry Mann, Wunsch et Mann
While several wines with a straightforward Riesling expression had already begun to fade and simply tasted like ‘old Riesling’, those that had achieved full ripeness continued to display great character, with the added aromatic complexity that comes from ageing.
As Claire Thevenot MS pointed out: ‘Alsace grand cru wines must possess a combination of terroir minerality and fruit from the grape itself; a balance of tension and fruit is key to their ageing potential.’
‘The quality across both vintages was remarkable,’ said fellow taster Vincenzo Arnese. ‘The wines showed excellent drinkability and highlighted the enormous potential of the Alsace grand cru appellation.’
Furstentum, Hengst, Kitterlé, Rangen and Schlossberg are among the most renowned of the 51 Alsace grands crus, known for their distinctive terroir character. Some of the best producers showcased this mineral character in both vintages.
Overall, if the varietal Riesling aspect dominates the wine, it may be advisable to consume them relatively quickly.
What to eat with Alsace grand cru Riesling, by Fiona Beckett
The fact that this tasting was showcasing two contrasting vintages, one warmer and one much more mature than the other, is the most important factor when it comes to food pairing – to suggest that a particular grand cru is better suited to one dish than another would be to overthink it.
But given the scores, these are great wines by any standard.
Were it not for their pricing on a wine list in a typical Michelin-starred restaurant, they would be the perfect choice for top-end Chinese, Japanese or Thai food.
Asian food is conventionally paired with Alsace Riesling, however, so why change a winning formula?
Younger vintages will handle spice better, particularly in the warm 2022 vintage, while the 2012s would be better suited to umami-rich dishes.
Seafood would work particularly well with both, maybe some subtly spiced grilled lobster, but I’d be strongly tempted to order in some good sushi or even a selection of Asian-inflected canapés.
With wines this fine you don’t need much in the way of food.
The judges
Thierry Meyer is the founder of oenoalsace.com and the DWWA Regional Chair for Alsace. A former contributing editor to the Bettane & Desseauve Guide des Vins, he established the Wine Scholar Guild’s Alsace Master-level program
Vincenzo Arnese is part of Berkmann Wine Cellars’ Prestige sales team in London. A sommelier and DWWA judge, he was director of wine at Raffles London at the OWO, and in 2022 was Taittinger UK Sommelier of the Year
Claire Thevenot MS owns UK-based importer Vins-Clairs, with a focus on artisanal wines. A former head sommelier, she became the first French female Master Sommelier and was the winner of the UK Sommelier of the Year competition in 2006
Alsace grand cru Riesling 2022 and 2012 panel tasting results:
Wines were tasted blind
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