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Hidden Tuscany: Where to eat and stay in Montecucco

Emily O'Hare recommends the top restaurants and hotels when visiting Montecucco...

Restaurants

La Tagliola, Baglioli di Arcidosso

Try grilled meats, cooked perfectly, and a good list of local wines – but don’t miss the mushroom soup to start – it’s a regional speciality.

Il Parco Faunistico del Monte Amiata

A traditional trattoria that’s located in the middle of a nature reserve and deer park. Order the wild boar stew and bruschetta toasted over a log fire. Do call to book in advance as the kitchen may open just for you – and don’t mind the deer popping their heads round the door!

Il Rintocco

Sample the homemade pasta at Il Rintocco in the centre of Cinigiano. The tagliatelle with wild boar sauce works well with owner Fabio’s selection of Montecucco wines by the glass. (+39 0564 994120)

Monte Antico at La Taverna di Campagna

Enjoy dinner at Monte Antico at La Taverna di Campagna. It is a charming restaurant run by the Begnardi brothers who also make their own wine. Try the bistecca alla Fiorentina paired with their Pigna Rossa Montecucco Riserva.

Da Begname

More than just a petrol station, it is the social hub for the entire mountain: it’s a restaurant, bar, newsagent, deli and mini-market, with a good selection of regional wines. Hear the latest local gossip under the pretence of taking breakfast at the bar. Do try the famous Corsini biscuits made in nearby Castel del Piano.

Fungo Amiata

A tiny factory on the outskirts of Castel del Piano selling a wide range of locally sourced vegetables, cooked and preserved under the local extra virgin olive oil. The mushrooms are particularly good.


See also: Wineries to visit in Montecucco


Accommodation

Castello di Vicarello

An elegantly restored 12th-century castle with eight suites, two pools, a spa, a fabulous kitchen and restaurant. Truffle hunting or leather belt-making activities are available, as are cooking classes. The castle cookbook, written by owner Aurora Baccheschi Berti, is excellent – as are the wines, which are made by her husband Carlo.

Il Giardino di Daniel Spoerri

Three simple, bright apartments within the garden of Daniel Spoerri, an exquisite spot to enjoy the work of this prolific artist, as well as to rest and eat. Meals are cooked on site by local Michelin-starred chef, Roberto Rossi.

Podere Montale

A winery (and wine hotel) opened in 2014, with 2015 being its first harvest. From Montale you can see, within 3km, three different DOCs: Montecucco, Orcia and Montalcino. The views are simply breathtaking.

Dimora Santa Margherita

A beautiful, small six-room boutique hotel in the middle of the Montecucco region, well placed for another day’s exploring.

Castello di Potentino

A medieval castle built on an Etruscan site in Seggiano, on the slopes of Amiata in the eastern part of Montecucco. It was bought in 2000 by the Greene family (descended from British novelist Graham Greene) and is now their home as well as a luxurious bed and breakfast, working winery and a classical music venue.

Formerly head sommelier and wine buyer at The River Café in London, Emily O’Hare is now a wine writer and educator based in Tuscany. These recommendations first featured as part of a travel guide in the Decanter May 2019 issue. 

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