‘Rioja is not just Tempranillo or Viura!’ Lalo Antón, CEO of Bodegas Izadi, states firmly, sharing the winery’s mission to show the world the diversity of Rioja and resist reducing it simply to its most planted grapes.
Many wine consumers may not even recognise the names of the grapes behind red and white Rioja, as these wines are so often sold by region rather than by grape variety.
Yet Rioja permits five native red grapes and six native whites. Few wineries work with all of these, but Izadi is determined to change that – and is leading by example, grounding its production in long-term research.
Meticulous research
‘This work with different varieties is primarily driven by our passion for native grapes,’ explains Antón. ‘There is a great diversity of varieties that allows us to delve deeper into more complex wines, with distinctive qualities that come from experimenting and understanding how each variety behaves in every vintage and what winemaking approaches suit them best.’
Izadi has spent years studying each variety, vinifying them separately and working with different vessels to understand the characteristics they can bring to the final blend.
Through its Selección project, the team works with all Rioja’s native white grapes: Viura, Malvasía, Tempranillo Blanco, Garnacha Blanca, Maturana Blanca and Torrontés; and all the reds: Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano, Maturana Tinta and Mazuelo.
Bodegas Izadi is situated in the heart of Rioja Alavesa.
A unique white blend
The Izadi Selección Blanco is the only white wine in Rioja to be made from all six native white varieties. To make it, Antón adds, ‘we use Torrontés, a very rare variety, of which we own around 25% of all plantings in the denomination – roughly four hectares.’
The project also extends to old vines: ‘In the triangle between Villabuena, Samaniego and Ábalos, there is a high concentration of old vineyards,’ explains Antón.
‘We select plots aged 60 years or more across different varieties for our Selección wines, both white and red. This allows us not only to work with different grapes, but to obtain exceptional quality fruit.’
Izadi’s mission goes beyond preserving vineyard heritage and old vines. Where the true depth of its work shows is in demonstrating that Rioja’s identity lies not in a single variety, but in the complexity and character of its native grapes.
Left: Roberto Vicente, winemaker at Bodegas Izadi.Right: Old bush vines at Bodegas Izadi.
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Content written and compiled by the Decanter Team
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