Sweet Hungary over £10
Dobogó Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2006
Three trophies, three years in a row and for three different vintages show this jewel of a winery is doing something seriously right.
It’s owned by the glamorous Izabella Zwack, of the Zwack Unicum family, and winemaker Attila Domokos. Izabella says “Dobogó’s philosophy from the beginning has been to make small quantities of Tokaji Aszú that is on the one hand side faithful to the centuries of tradition in the wine region but also to be a fresh, vibrant, young, joyous interpretation of Tokaj; maybe reflecting the personalities of the two young owners.”
The wine nearly didn’t make it to Decanter this year as after winning two successive trophies, Izabella thought it was statistically impossible to win three times! The name Dobogó means the clip-clop of horses’ hooves - something that reminds Izabella of the way her heart races near harvest time.
Luckily, 2006 was a near perfect season; an Indian summer followed a hot humid summer and the harvest from Dobogó’s five hectares lasted until mid November. The classic 6 Puttonyos Aszú is only made in excellent years, and in 2006 it was a typical blend of 70% Furmint, 20% Harslevelű and 10% Muskotály, fermented for three years in local Hungarian oak.
It’s wonderfully expressive; almost an explosion of pineapple and white peach on the nose, then rich and rounded on the palate, completed with Furmint’s hallmark beautifully vibrant, mineral acidity to balance the intense sweetness. A truly superb example of why Tokaj is one of the world’s great sweet wines.
UK Liberty wines RRP £54.99 USA Winenow $80