Decanter World Wine AwardsDamian Martin devastated by Ara departure
- Thursday 17 March 2011
Picture: winegrowersofara.co.nz
Martin, who holds a doctorate in viticultural science from Bordeaux University and is one of the founders of the pioneering Marlborough winery, has been replaced by Jeff Clarke, recently at Brancott Estate (formerly Montana) and an authority on New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.
The reasons for Martin's leaving remain unclear, though there is speculation that Ara's management - the company was bought in 2008 by Todd Capital, the investment arm of Todd Corporation, one of New Zealand's biggest companies - wants to change the style of the wine to make it more mainstream.
In a statement announcing Clarke’s appointment, Ara CEO Christine Pears paid tribute to Martin’s ‘considerable contribution’ to Ara and wished him well for the future.
The statement also said, ‘After focusing primarily on the vineyard for the first few years, it is a logical step for us to make sure we have the best winemaking expertise on board. There are few, if any, winemakers in New Zealand with Jeff’s outstanding track record and wealth of experience.’
Pears told Decanter.com, ‘The ARA wine style is an expression of ARA's unique terroir. As such, and to give the wines the focus they deserve, Ara's winemaker needs to understand the critical importance of terroir to our wines as well as being an accomplished winemaker; Jeff Clarke more than adequately meets both these requirements.’
Martin was responsible for both viticulture and winemaking. This role has now been split into two, with both a dedicated viticulturalist and winemaker running the operation. Ara produces four Sauvignon Blancs and four Pinot Noirs.
Pears insists that the style of Ara wines will not change, but all the indications are that there has been an irreconcilable difference of opinion about the direction Ara should take.
One observer told Decanter.com, ‘Damian believes in non-intervention. Excessive yields, excessive use of drip irrigation, residual sugar in dry styles, over-ripe fruit and highly-alcoholic wines and interventionist winemaking are all barriers to observing true terroir expression at a given location.’
There is no indication that Clarke intends to use any of these methods, or increase production, though there is some talk in New Zealand that Ara’s management was impatient with Martin’s resolutely non-commercial approach to winemaking.
Ara is highly-thought of in quality terms but its restrained style is out of kilter with mainstream New Zealand Sauvignon. It does not often shine in competitions: at the Decanter World Wine Awards last year the wines won no higher than bronze.
One experienced commentator described Ara’s style as ‘distinctive though in strict quality terms with considerable merit’ and ‘much influenced by site and viticultural methods'.
But, he went on, its style is ‘out of step with the mainstream market. The suggestion was that Jeff Clarke might swing the style more toward the mainstream.’
While Martin himself is unable to comment, his close friends say he is devastated at leaving Ara.
‘Ara is his life, and he is pretty shellshocked to be no longer a part of it. He has no plans for the future,’ one said.
Have your say!
Tom Cannavan
March 21 12:42
For me, Damian *was* Ara: he is a deep-thinking, resolute character who had a vision for Ara and a long term plan to make unique wines from what is a unique terroir. Recent promotional discount pricing that has appeared on their entry level wines surprised me slightly, but I suspected it was a means to an end to generate volume sales for these wines whilst the 'big plan' for the top Sauvignon and Pinot progressed. I know nothing about Damian's departure other than what I have read, but feel in my bones that the wines will change and chase volume at the expense of the resolute style that was Damian's vision. Of course, that might be the 'correct' commercial decision, but I also fear the loss of a distinctive quality player from the Marlborough scene. Time will tell.
Pharmadropout
March 18 19:51
Message to Damian...having given my all to my particular industry (pharmaceuticals) for 30 years to then be "let go" because my style and face no longer fit with the company vision left me with similar devastation but the sooner you come to realise that this decision is NOT personal but purely business driven, you can pick your self up and get on with a better, more fullfilled life like I did. I wish you the best of luck for your future ventures, whatever they are.
Jayson Bryant
March 18 19:45
The sole reason Dr Damian Martin was employed was to extract as much terroir as possible from the Ara site. The wines were/are site specific, and although they will never win any major awards, they are as unique as the site where the wine is made.
I would have to agree with Belinda Jackson, and hope that Ara wines do not allow themselves to become as homogenous as most of Marlborough.
Whilst Montana have a strong brand, they also make a lot of very ordinary wine!
Hervé Lalau
March 18 12:17
No one should put too much of oneself in any position, for dedication is not what companies expect, but profit and glory