Decanter World Wine AwardsNatural winemakers should beware dogma: Jefford
- Wednesday 6 July 2011
- Comments (11)
In his column in the August issue of Decanter magazine Jefford suggests there is a worrying thread of dogmatism - and 'charlatanry' - to natural wine enthusiasts.
Jefford uses two analogies to put his point across: musicians using period instruments to play great classical works, and the image of a world without soap or deodorants.
On the one hand, a return in winemaking to a ‘pre-development past’ can ‘reveal a landscape of aroma and flavour few of us alive today ever previously had the chance to enjoy’.
But on the other hand, some natural wines are ‘homogenously cidery and coarse’, and malodorous.
The problem, Jefford says, is the dogmatic refusal to add sulphur dioxide to stabilise the wines: the use of the chemical should be minimised, but not rejected in the pursuit of an unattainable ideal of purity.
No winemaker, Jefford says, ‘should… fold their arms and stare righteously at the ceiling while their wines turn malodorously delinquent through neglect.’
Natural wines ‘have the wind of fashion behind them at present’ and even the clear-sighted can be blinded by fashion, but in the end only the best natural wine will endure, the critic says.
*Decanter magazine's September issue will feature a six page special on natural wines.
The August issue of Decanter is out now. Subscribe to the magazine or get the digital version
Have your say!
Paul Rowbotham
September 01 09:51
Simply (1) define what an organic wine is and (2) make winemakers put additives (even ones that 'pass through' the wine) on the bottle, and their quantities. Then see where the consumer goes. He/she may try natural wines but will return to a good, organic wine rather than a poor natural one. And before anyone says "but there are good natural wines!"...yes there are but that is down to luck. SO2 is necessary, in small quantities.
Fabio (Vinos Ambiz)
July 11 00:12
Viva common sense!
Evan Byrne
July 07 10:13
Anyone, in any field, should beware dogma. I wonder how many natural wine dogmatics wander the highways and byways picking bunches of grapes here and there as they find them growing wild on natural vines. I have not researched it, but I would guess none: they all pick from their carefully planted and trellised rows. Perhaps someone should tell them that vines don't grow like this naturally.
Giampaolo Venica
July 07 09:12
Very smart article Mr. Lechmere, if you are interested in clean technology uses in winemaking please let me know, I would be happy to share with you what we do at the winery for our aromatic white wines. Back to the roots is important but sustainability means progress too. regards Giampaolo