Decanter World Wine AwardsPinguet leaves Domaine Huet in shock resignation
- Monday 27 February 2012
Pinguet’s unexpected resignation, submitted last October and finalised this month, comes just three years before his official retirement.
He has been in charge of the great Vouvray estate since 1976, and it was planned he should remain until 2015, when he would be 70.
Domaine Huet is the most celebrated Loire producer, and the only one from the region ever to have headlined a Christie's auction, in 2004.
Sarah Hwang, daughter of Anthony Hwang who bought the estate from the Huet family in 2003, has been appointed president with her brother Stefan as managing director.
Anthony Hwang is a Chinese American businessman who also owns the Tokaji estate Királyudvar. The legendary Gaston Huet, who had established the domaine’s reputation, died in 2002.
Sources close to Pinguet told Decanter.com that he left over disagreements with the Hwang family over wine styles, with Pinguet feeling he was directed not to take the necessary risks involved in making the demi-sec and sweet wines for which the estate is internationally famous, and to concentrate on dry wines, for which grapes can be picked earlier and therefore at greater yield and less risk of losing the crop.
At the same time, orders for long-established and significant customers, including major retailers, were unexpectedly cancelled.Sarah Hwang said, ‘Although we knew of his intention to retire in 2015, this news came as a surprise to us. I must say that it was difficult for us to see Noël step down, having been a part of the estate for so many years'
She insisted Pinguet had been given the freedom and responsibility to run the winery as he pleased. This allowed him, she said, ‘to continue to follow the philosophy that the estate has upheld for many years. That is, to produce what nature gives us. Looking forward, I can assure you that this philosophy will remain.’
She also said, regarding reports of cancelled orders, ‘I think that the information you’ve gathered might not be accurate.’
Pinguet took over from his father-in-law, Gaston Huet in 1976. In 1990 the entire 35ha estate was converted to biodynamic viticulture. The Huet family retains control of the stock of older vintages going back to 1921.
Have your say!
Bruce Flatow
February 29 20:46
it is my understanding that Pinguet himself is refuting much of this articles claims that are certainly made before many of us have all the real facts. Do not jump to conclusions with out solid facts.
Joel Watson
February 28 21:56
It is always sad to hear that a person who build a style of wone and made the winery popular with wine drinkers leaves his or her position regardless of the reason. It means a change in style of wine in many cases and so we who learned to depend on the present style for good wine now have to forgo that style and see what the next cellar master is going to create.
From late 60’s we have seen corporate America and well heeled individuals jump into the wine trade and run amuck. They think that they can apply their traditional training in business and its bottom line analysis to a winery and all too often they fail. They often had no background in the wine trade and rather then learn, they imposed their will and there goes the future for that winery. A sad day in the wine trade when an individual like Mssr. Noel Pinguet leaves his trade for no other reason then he is not allowed to do what he does best.
Gregory Sims, Berlin
February 28 12:19
Quite apart from the question of wine styles (tinkering with them would be supreme foolishness), one can only hope Pinguet's regrettable departure doesn't mean a weakening of the Domaine's passionate and resolute commitment to (and clearly virtuosic practice of) biodynamic viticulture. As the old saying goes, "if it ain't broke(en), don't fix it"...
s.pareatumbee
February 28 10:48
thatis a very sad news for someone like him to retire on such isues.His long earn experience in producing quality wines is not given to anyone or new comer.so you may imagine ,,,,what will happen now.