The secret of a great wine list? Keep it short

U are perfectly correct.

This was the best possible advice I had ever seen, presented as a wake-up call to restaurant managers. Getting the ego of a grand list out of the way is the best way for a modern restaurant. Why have a list of moldy oldies that never sell, that are on the list just to satisfy someone that the wines are still around? I have encountered too many large lists with plenty of out-of-date wines that should have been consumed a decade earlier, that are just consuming sunk costs for the owner, and which are horrifically priced, to boot! I much more enjoy the restaurant that will have the ever-changing wine list that evolves with the seasonality of the food on the menu; it gives me the chance to keep trying something new and interesting.

There are Sommeliers to recommend wines from long wine lists. Especially in places like Noma. With all the respect to Blaufrankisch, and there are really good ones out there, nothing will replace the classics, those which people who dine in such places are willing to pay for. In some places a short and precise wine list is appropriate, but should also be based on the classics as well as some esoteric selections to round it out.

Generally speaking, I agree that shorter wine lists are better although below I will point out two wine lists that are lengthy and fantastic. The big problem with a large wine list is that it overwhelms people. The last thing they want to do is flip through a 25 page list. I feel that they then end up settling for a wine that they might not otherwise have chosen, because they ask for a recommendation.

I have a blog at www.vinoservant.com where all I do is analyze restaurant wine lists and provide readers with the best values. I won't recommend a wine if the mark-up is above 2.5x over retail. I have reviewed the following restaurants in the SF Bay Area: Kokkari, Boulevard, Wayfare Tavern, Alexander's Steakhouse Cupertino, Harris', House of Prime Rib, Los Altos Grill, Waterfront Restaurant, Village Pub, Spruce, EPIC Roasthouse and La Mar.

Boulevard and Harris' both have huge wine lists (300+), and the vintage depth and prices are exceptional, and the lists are clogged up with 90+ point wines. On the other hand, Wayfare Tavern, Los Altos Grill and the House of Prime Rib have smaller lists (140 bottles) that lack vintage depth, but are full of outstanding values and 90+ point wines.

Personally, when I go to restaurants I want to drink younger wines. Why would I order a 1994 Gruaud Larose in a restaurant and pay $150+, when I can drink it at home at a cost of $35?

Great topic.

Josh Moser
Founder of VinoServant
Breaking Down Restaurant Wine Lists

My wife and I used to run Brown's Wine Bar and Restaurant in Hong Kong. We had about 500 wines and the time was late 80's. It was indeed a very different world when long lunches were frequent. But we did maintain a list of 24 wine by the glass and changing those wines frequently. As much as we had a long list we believe a good wine by the glass list is always more interesting and best for the guests to find a wine that would pair with each course of the food. We also believe the house wine should be the best wine in the list as this is the wine representing not only value for money but the good judgement of the establishment to find a wine that is enjoyable to most of the guests. We share Andy Whiteman's view. Wine should be fun!

Have to agree on the wine list thing short and ever changing that's the way forward.....when it's gone it's gone!