Decanter World Wine AwardsCalifornia bans foie gras; Europe fights on
- Wednesday 27 June 2012
Foie gras geese on an artisanal farm in Gers, France
The California ban – which prohibits the sale of any product derived from the force-feeding of birds – was signed it into law by then-governor Arnold Schwarzenegger in September 2004.
Some welcome the ban – Chicago restaurateur Charlie Trotter outlawed foie gras unilaterally in 2005 – but others have vowed to fight it or find a way round it.
‘It’s unlike any other animal product that I know,’ Jon Shook of restaurant Animal in Los Angeles said.
Force-feeding of animals is already banned under EU law, and it is expressly banned in 17 countries worldwide, including the UK.
However, in France, where around 90% of the world’s foie gras is produced and consumed, in an industry which employs 30,000 people, is worth €1.8bn, and slaughters 34m ducks a year, campaigning organisation L214 points out that EU law is flouted as a matter of state policy.
The French Code Rural officially protects foie gras producers, and gavage (force-feeding), as part of French heritage, spokeswoman Johanne Mielcarek told Decanter.com.
The fact that 57% of French producers have PGI (Protected Geographic Indication) status means they can claim EU funding.
L214 has filed official complaints in EU courts against French producers, but, Mielcarek says, ‘no infringement procedure has been taken.’
L214 also claims foie gras does not have as much support in France as is thought, with surveys showing 44% in favour of a ban on force-feeding, and 60% agreeing it causes suffering.
However, Mielcarek said, ‘Only 18% actually refuse to eat foie gras, especially at Christmas, when it is part of the traditional menu.’
As in California, UK restaurateurs and retailers are divided. Major department stores such as Selfridges, Harvey Nichols and House of Fraser don't carry foie gras, and neither do most supermarkets. Fortnum and Mason still sells it and is the site of regular protests, the latest led by Hollywood star Steven Berkoff, campaigning for PETA (People for the Ethical Treatments of Animals).
Martin Lam, who owns restaurant Ransome’s Dock in London, serves foie gras ‘very rarely’, but when he does it is very popular, he said. He agreed that force-feeding was cruel but said perspective is important. ‘There is far more injustice done to millions of animals,’ he said.
Another London restaurateur, Rowley Leigh of Le Café Anglais, said he 'shared a certain distaste' for the cruelty inherent in foie gras production, but thought that to legislate against it was 'absurd'.'When you imagine what kind of chicken Californians put in their mouths every day, foie gras is irrelevant. It's a soundbite decision, there will be a few distraught gourmets, but it'll have no other effect.'
Decanter contributing editor Fiona Beckett, who foreswore foie gras after visiting an artisanal producer in 2008, told Decanter.com, ‘I'd actually prefer to see foie gras become as socially unacceptable as wearing fur rather than illegal, but people aren't going to stop eating it voluntarily. So I admire the Californians for their stance and think it will have an influence in the US.'
Beckett said she doubted it could happen in the UK. ‘Though you can't rule it out. We banned smoking after all. I certainly see less of it in restaurants these days.’
While France dominates the world’s foie gras production, Hungary, Bulgaria, Canada, the US and China all have small foie gras industries.
There are two producers in the United States, one of which is Sonoma Foie Gras in Farmington in California’s Central Valley, which will close later this month, its owner says, as a result of the ban.
Have your say!
Jeleck
August 09 20:30
Chicago takes a step back into dark ages !!!!!!!The progressive Chicago foie gras ban, spoonsred by Alderman Joe Moore and originally passed in 2006 by a vote of 48-1, has been repealed today due to shameless manipulation by restaurant industry lobbyists to bring the diseased, rotting organs of abused ducks and geese back to Chicago’s restaurants.In the course of our work to keep this ban intact, we’ve talked to thousands of people on the streets of Chicago, the overwhelming majority of whom were horrified when they learned about the cruelty behind foie gras. Many of these people joined us in vocal support for Chicago’s progressive ban of the barbaric product. Unfortunately, in large part thanks to a handful of powerful people, battling wealthy industries can be a long, hard battle, regardless of where the public stands on the issue.This decision is a big step backwards for the city, and it goes against the tide of civilized communities who are making the compassionate decision to ban foie gras.It’s pretty clear from the desperate angling we’ve seen from the foie gras industry as they’ve fought against this ban that they know their days are numbered, but it’s a hell of a shame to see that, even in their death throes, they can still find a way to poison a beautiful thing. We will keep fighting to pass more foie gras bans and to educate the public about this delicacy of despair. You can count on that.
Pepe
July 28 22:16
Pure hypocrisy.
As much as yes, the animal feeding is brute, the treatments California meat and milk farms administer to their own cattle or pigs is just as disgusting.
Where is the ban then ?
Alfred
July 02 09:21
I would be happy to agree with Christine. But I'm not able to give up to meat (and certainly to foie gras)! I think we could breed and eat animals with less cruelty... And indeed we have to define our relations with animals...
Ca Suffit
July 01 04:13
To our friends across the pond, don't worry. If we decide to ban something in California, it's just an odd tradition we call "democracy". A while back we even banned smoking in restaurants, and that's worked out quite nicely. Some day when you're older you'll understand.