Burgundy 2008: Top 3 from Louis Jadot
The negociant Louis Jadot often triumphs in difficult vintages, but their 2008s are a mixed bag.
Many of the whites are inexpressive and very high in acidity.
As so often at Jadot, the top white is the glorious Chevalier Montrachet 'Demoiselles': vibrant oak nose, with lime and pear aromas; good attack, full-bodied, pungent, very concentrated, spicy and mineral, with terrific length. 18-18.5. ca. £1700 IB.
For a fraction of the price, try the full-bodied if hefty Santenay 'Clos de Malte' (ca £180 IB).
Some lesser reds are disappointing, lacking structure and precision, but I liked the Nuits Boudots: intense red-fruits nose, with perfume and purity; full-bodied, with marked acidity and elegant tannins, assertive and skeletal now but with fine potential. 17-17-5. ca. £420 IB.
Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St Jacques is even more stylish: bright intense cherry and raspberry nose; suave and concentrated, impeccably balanced, and a long spicy finish. 17.5-18. ca £625 IB.
The silky Bonnes Mares (ca £1140 IB) is even more poised.