Pelissero is an unashamed modernist, eager to use, though judiciously, barriques for his opulent reds.

Producer profile: Giorgio Pelissero

He’s a showman, entertaining visitors at his new cellars in Treiso, but works hard too, regularly attending global wine fairs to promote his wines and recoup the considerable investments he has made.

Even though his top Barbaresco, Vanotu, is aged entirely in new barriques, he is no devotee of new oak for its own sake.

Other Barbarescos, such as the blend called Nubiola and the splendid Tulin from rocky soils, are aged in a mix of casks and barriques.

There’s no shortage of outstanding winemakers in Barbaresco, but I just happen to like Pelissero: impish, confident but questioning; international in outlook, yet rooted in Treiso.

And the wines are designed to give pleasure, and hardly ever disappoint.

Wines to try from Giorgio Pelissero

Giorgio Pelissero, Vanotu, Barbaresco 2001

Piquant, oaky, red-fruit nose, stylish and aromatic. Medium-bodied and sleek, textured and balanced, with good acidity, giving a long, leafy, elegant finish. No rush to drink.(93/100pts)

Buy: UK £51.45 GP Brands // US $230 Toast Wines by Taste

Drink 2016-2028

Alc 14%

Giorgio Pelissero, Tulin, Barbaresco 2010

Very perfumed, floral nose, with red-fruit aromas. Fresh attack, concentrated but also polished with sleek tannins. Delicious fruit, zesty and tangy, with great immediacy and excellent length. (93/100pts)

Buy: UK £41.67 Millesima // US $99

Drink 2016-2030

Alc 14%