The 2006 vintage is classic for both red and white Burgundy - neither out of the ordinary like 2003, nor extraordinary like 2005. The whites at their best are enormously pleasing. It’s a drinker’s vintage - lightish, but also elegant, expressive and fresh. Both reds and whites reflect terroir, and there’s real definition between the quality levels and crus. The hallmarks of the reds are fragrance, purity of fruit and soft, integrated tannins. The whites show style, freshness, with ripe, lucid fruit and a sweetish acidity - not firm exactly, but well balanced. The vintage was difficult - a heatwave in July, yield-reducing hailstorms, and then a cold, wet August conducive to rot (selective harvesting was key to avoiding mildew and hail taint). September, though, saved the day. Warm and breezy, it allowed red grapes at least to ripen slowly and reach sugar levels approaching the concentrated 2005s. The whites rather rushed to maturity and those who picked early, before acidity levels dropped off, fared best. In the winery, judicious extraction was vital to avoid astringent results, and not everyone succeeded. For reds, the Côte de Nuits seem the more reliable, with Vosne-Romanée standing out. Among the whites, Chassagne-Montrachet is the beautifully floral star.

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Written by Decanter