Margaret River 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon: A vintage of pure Cabernet potential

[subscriber-content] [breakout]

Margaret River 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon vintage rating: 5/5 A classic year for Cabernet, slightly on the warmer side; aromatics and vibrancy coupled with structure to go the distance.

[/breakout]

Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 The 2021 and 2022 vintages in Margaret River were like chalk and cheese when it comes to Cabernet. Across the board, 2022 was a great year in Margaret River. It didn’t matter which end of the 213,000ha region you looked at. From the northernmost vineyards in Yallingup, through to the southernmost plantings in Karridale (about 100km away), the conditions provided minimum challenges to vignerons and ideal ripening conditions for Margaret River’s Cabernet -based red wines. Fifty-five wines were submitted in this category, and those not included in the final report were largely still good, if not very good, wines. Those wines that reached greater heights offered finesse and complexity, elegance and nuance, vibrant acidity and fully ripe tannins , as well as a distinct personality in the glass. Of course, wines must also be balanced, have sizeable length and a well-defined structure. We are talking about Cabernet, after all. If I were to define 2022 in one sentence, it would be highly aromatic and well-structured with plenty of vibrancy. [caption id="attachment_563886" align="alignnone" width="600"] Bruce Dukes of Domaine Naturaliste. Credit: Kurt Nigg Photography[/caption] Pure Cabernet potential 'Great wines don’t come from perfect weather. They come from consistent flowering, healthy vines, and harmony in the vineyard,' says Cullen Wines’ Vanya Cullen. While the season was warm, it was largely a calm one for Cabernet growers, thanks to an even pace of development from flowering, to uniform fruit set and on to a warm summer. Keith Mugford at Moss Wood adds: 'On Boxing Day, the temperature hit 41.2°C, our hottest day since 1985, followed by a balmy 24°C night. It was a summer of extremes. Despite the heat, ripening remained steady.' These drier conditions assisted with disease pressure and a good concentration of flavour in the fruit, and with the ability for winemakers to make considered decisions. 'We let the fruit hang a little longer in 2022, intentionally, to build flavour. Acidity holds in Margaret River, so we could afford to wait,' says Flametree Wines’ Cliff Royale. For Phil Hutchison, Senior Winemaker at Leeuwin Estate, the key word for the 2022 vintage is consistency. He explains: '2022 gave us one of the most consistent Cabernet harvests in recent memory. Everything just lined up: the weather, the ripeness, the tannin.' It’s a word also used by Domaine Naturaliste’s Bruce Dukes, who says: '2022 was a clean, consistent year. No real pest pressure, no extreme heat, no rush, just pure Cabernet potential.' [breakout]

Decanter vintage ratings – Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 3/5: A cooler year with summer rain. Still, wines of beauty and understated elegance from those who were proactive in vineyard management.

2020 5/5: A benchmark year. Near-perfect conditions for Cabernet, it would have taken mismanagement to miss the mark.

2019 4/5: A slightly cooler year, with great, elegant wines of nuanced complexity, starting to shine with time in the bottle.

2018 5/5: Another of the most recent great, classic years in Margaret River. A mild spring followed by a warm and consistent summer ensured good yields and great flavour.

2017 4/5: Slightly cooler conditions with no heat extremes. The best wines are finely detailed and show finesse and longevity.

[/breakout]

Vintage comparisons [caption id="attachment_563884" align="alignnone" width="600"] Ellin Tritt, Fraser Gallop[/caption] The vintage has been compared to several other classic vintages, including 2018. ‘It’s probably not as structural,’ says Hutchison. ‘It’s not a blockbuster year, it’s a classical year. And those are often the ones that stand the test of time.’ ‘It reminds me of 2019 or even 2012 – a vintage that may not shout early on, but will go the distance in the cellar,’ explains Cherubino. It’s also a vintage that has taken time to find its voice. ‘It was a quiet vintage,’ explains Cullen. ‘Not loud and showy, but deeply expressive if you take the time to listen.’ Good things come to those who wait, as they say, and the 2022 Cabernets are drinking beautifully at this point. Stylistic evolutions While there are regional and producer differences, overall these wines show a more youthful approachability and less oak influence than previous years. ‘Our 2022 Cabernet didn’t see any new oak at all; it just didn’t need it,’ states Cherubino. A vintage of excellence means less work in the winery. Fraser Gallop’s Ellin Tritt (pictured, above) sums it up: ‘It was one of those vintages that just flowed. No big challenges, just a joy to work with. The tannins were ripe, the berries were concentrated, and the wines are looking fabulous now.’ Click here for more reviews of the Margaret River 2022 Cabernet Sauvignons [/subscriber-content] Margaret River 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon [wine-collection] Related articles One to watch: Margaret River's Trait Wines Ocean drive: the cool climate wines of Mornington Peninsula ‘I’ve tasted nearly 4,000 wines in my three years at Decanter; this is my first 100-point wine’