Editors' picks – November 2025

Eyes on the Southwest Sylvia Wu The WineGB annual tasting each autumn is a prime opportunity to catch up on the latest trends and key names in the industry. While Crouch Valley, Sussex and Kent continue to draw much of the attention, producers from southwest England are also making an impression. Starting in Wiltshire, Bluestone brought its Blanc de Noirs 2019 – a Platinum winner at this year’s DWWA – with creamy red fruits and depths of honey-roasted nuts, backed by vibrant freshness (RRP £65). The 2020-based Blanc de Blancs NV (£46.95) from Langham , further south, in Dorset, stood out for its delicate salinity, citrussy tension and energetic, structured mouthfeel. The producer’s new top cuvée, the multi-vintage Blanc de Blancs Perpetual , carried the same drive while adding more power and sophistication: dried yellow fruits and herbs plus honeyed toast (£94.95 but sold out, next release in June 2026). [subscriber-content]Heading west, Sandridge Barton , in south Devon, bottled a single barrel of Pinot Blanc aged under flor (Don’t Feed the Ponies Sonny 2022, £27), where salted almonds and green zest led to a textured palate and solid length. Also from Devon, Lyme Bay brought a Blanc de Blancs 2017 , crafted from fruit sourced across England’s wine regions, which shone with zesty preserved lemons and a creamy, nutty mousse (£37.49). Family faithful Tina Gellie I recently caught up with representatives of two notable US wineries in London: Quilceda Creek from Washington and California’s Spottswoode. Both are pioneering, family-owned properties renowned for their structured, ageworthy Cabernets. Quilceda Creek was founded in 1978 by Alex Golitzin (nephew of André Tchelistcheff, the father of modern American winemaking); son Paul took over in 1993. With general manager Scott Lloyd I tasted Quilceda Creek’s Palengat 2021 (US$210 Benchmark Wine Group), Galitzine 2018 (US$185 CultWine) and the three latest vintages of Columbia Valley Cabernet . UK importer Jeroboams has sold out of the 2021 , but the 2020 (£205) and new 2022 (£225) are silky and exotic, with concentrated blue fruit. Down in St Helena, Mary Novak bought the 1882-founded Spottswoode estate in 1972 and her daughter Beth Novak Milliken is now at the helm. A dinner to celebrate 40 years of its Estate Cabernet (1982-2021) was held at Christie’s, which recently sold a 40-vintage vertical donated by the Novaks for US$32,500. Brand ambassador Heather de Savoye and UK importer Mentzendorff showed eight vintages paired in ‘ones’ and ‘sixes’: 2021 (£312 Hedonism) & 2016, 2011 & 2006, 2001 & 1996, and 1991 & 1986. Apart from the 1986, I preferred the ‘one’ years for their vitality, freshness and floral aromatics. Golden-green nectar Natalie Earl [caption id="attachment_568508" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Natalie Earl (right) with Anna Taurino (centre)[/caption] Although I’m Decanter ’s France Editor, sometimes I do venture further afield; in September, I took a holiday to Puglia. I asked my Instagram followers for recommendations, and they delivered: a restaurant on a rocky outcrop for a post-swim sunset dinner; breakfast of caffè Leccese (espresso over ice with almond syrup), and pasticciotto (a buttery pastry filled with custard). Yet the most memorable experience was unplanned: stumbling upon an olive oil farm – Agricola Taurino. It was founded in the 1960s by Pino and Maria to build a future for their children. We were greeted warmly by the serene Anna Taurino, the third generation, now running marketing and hospitality. In 2013, the deadly bacterium Xylella fastidiosa, spread by insects such as spittlebugs, was detected in the region. It has since devastated olive groves across southern Italy, killing more than 20 million trees in a region that produces about 80% of Italy’s olive oil. It’s threatening both global supply and local livelihoods, bringing into sharp relief the peril of monocultures. Agricola Taurino has planted more-resistant varieties, such as Leccino and Favolosa, and has diversified into walnuts, citrus and wheat. My favourite oil of the tasting was the spicy, lightly bitter Favolosa, and our suitcases came home full of the golden-green nectar. La Côte: A Merlot masterstroke Georgie Hindle Château Lascombes, the storied Bordeaux second growth acquired by US billionaire Gaylon Lawrence in late 2022 , is undergoing a renaissance under new director Axel Heinz. Just two years into his tenure – having joined from Tuscany’s Ornellaia and Masseto in summer 2023 – Heinz has wasted no time revitalising this 115ha powerhouse. His latest coup? La Côte Lascombes , a 100% Merlot hailing from roughly 4.5ha of limestone and famous blue clay (more commonly found in Pomerol) in plots neighbouring first growth Château Margaux. Speaking at a press lunch ahead of the official trade launch in September, Heinz said: ‘You can’t stay still – it’s important to keep pushing forward.’ Despite tricky market conditions, the ambition here is clear, not only with a new wine that now sits at the top of the portfolio – about €200 a bottle, roughly double the price of Lascombes due to its prestige and limited production – but allowing the grand vin to refocus on the original Cabernet Sauvignon-heavy terroirs of the 1855 classification. On the palate, La Côte delivers a firm structure with purity and high acidity. Despite the hot year, the 2022 (£140ib Berry Bros & Rudd) has bright fruit and laser focus as well as an unmistakable stony minerality not commonly found in typical Margaux wines. An exciting project to watch! A precious drop of tawny Amy Wislocki [caption id="attachment_568509" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Credit: Callum McInerney-Riley[/caption] The Graham’s 80 Year Old Tawny that winemaker Charles Symington blended to mark the birthday of his father Peter last autumn was such a hit with party guests that the company decided to bottle it for commercial release. An application was made to the Port Wine Institute, which agreed in January to expand the Aged Tawny category to include 80 Year Old. A precious bottle from the 600-bottle production was the star of a dinner hosted by UK brand manager Anthony Symington in London. A tiny serve was poured at the end of the evening, with glasses topped up carefully by pipette for a second sip. Made with wines from the 1940s, the tawny lost more than 60% of its original volume to evaporation while ageing, hence the tiny production and chunky price tag (£1,675 Hedonism). An amazing birthday gift for a Port-loving octogenarian though: the heady liquid oozes generosity, multi-layered, with rancio character and warming aromas and flavours of plump raisins, walnuts, treacle and marmalade. The half-empty bottle was whisked away for further tastings, guests looking on longingly in the vain hope of another sip. [/subscriber-content] Related articles Editors’ Picks – October 2025 Editors’ Picks – September 2025 Editors’ picks – August 2025

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Editors’ picks – November 2025

Eyes on the Southwest

Sylvia Wu

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